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Member Since: Jul 15, 2010
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Noah McKelvin
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Point Rank: # 804
Total Points: 1,020

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 1360 | Routes 15 | Areas 2 | Approach Trails | Photos 168 | Page Improvements | Comments 147 | Posts 71 | Stars 548 | Ratings 409
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > North Rim Routes > Aretes > Blacksmiths (5.12)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Oct 30, 2017

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Comments: Hey, Jay, think we saw your chalk on route. If so, thanks! Helped us find some of the hidden holds....


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > North Rim Routes > Aretes > Blacksmiths (5.12)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Oct 29, 2017

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Comments: Such a kick ass route!!! Hard, committing, and exposed. We roasted with a high of 50. I'd recommend in the 40s. Still doable though. We found a 4 nice to have. Be sure to traverse low on the traverse pitches. This might be the steepest route I've done in the Black and probably the best 5.12 dare I say?? Get on it!


Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Vail Ice > Rigid Designator Amphitheat... > Amphibian (WI5+ M9)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Sep 29, 2017

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Comments: The first pitch goes at 11+/12a with chalk and rock shoes for those that may be burnt out drytooling it. Perhaps even more classic that way. Jugs and kneebars for days!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One > To RP Or Not To Be (5.12a X)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Sep 18, 2017

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Comments: One of the most beautiful leads in the canyon! But definitely a step up from something like "Night"..... Don't forget those slider nuts. A bunch of the gear is marginal. Only one or two pieces near the beginning I can think of that are decent but who knows?


Location: Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Blair (overview) > Lower Blair I, II, III, and... > Lower Blair III > Pretty Girls with Long Kniv... (5.12b)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Sep 6, 2017

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Comments: Absolutely amazing line! There is a great 000 and Metolius 0.75 size cam that for great on the second piece that keeps you off the deck. True sending crux is after the crux by the bolt. Sustained climbing and every bit of 12b and then some. Get on it!


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > Lower East Face > Diagonal Super Direct (5.11+ PG13)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Aug 27, 2017

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Comments: An overlooked classic. I fixed a 0.1 x4 on the 11c "run-out" pitch. Offset cams proved useful. Just a warning, this is real 5.11. Perhaps similar to 5.12 on The Diamond with devious gear at times. It deserves to get done more! Don't be scared off by the R rating. Never is it super run-out, but you need to be be creative with gear. In other words, exciting but not dangerous. Do it!


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Elevenmile Canyon > Spray Wall > Only Entertainment (5.13b)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Aug 20, 2017

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Comments: Really great line! Sequential....


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Glacier Gorge > Spearhead > All Two Obvious (5.12a R)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Aug 6, 2017

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Comments: Going low on the crux pitch is crucial. What a great route! Offsets are nice, too.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > Ship's Prow > Bologna Pony (5.12c)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: Sooo mega!!!!


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > Mt. Evans > The Black Wall > Undertow (free) (5.11+)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Jul 2, 2017

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Comments: Amazing! Thanks so much for the new bolt! It totally kept the rope off the lip the whole time. Now you don't have to worry about extending everything like crazy. This is one of the best routes I've done in CO. Get on it. End of June being the driest time. Almost completely dry today. Thanks for the hard work on the FFA!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > Predator (5.11+)
By: Noah McKelvin When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: Fantastic route! Do it. 4 star movement, 4 star position, but maybe 3 stars on rock quality. Long pitch and sustained and deserving of R, I think, but maybe I missed the gear. Watch the second clip. Woohoo!

Watch out on the one loose horn flake. It was flexing like crazy. Surprised it held me!


Location: Colorado > Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma > Haus Rock > The Spine (5.10c)
By: Noah McKelvin When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: Solid 11+, but maybe I missed the "holds".


Location: Colorado > Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma > Haus Rock > Sky Pilot (5.12d)
By: Noah McKelvin When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: Amazing sequence. Better than Crystal Ball I thought! Get on this thing!


Location: Colorado > Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma > Haus Rock > Crystal Ball (5.12b)
By: Noah McKelvin When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: Badass route. Definitely don't clip the anchor until the very top jug. Such a cool sequence!


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > Capitol Peak > Capitol-Snowmass Traverse (5.7)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Apr 28, 2017

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Comments: Bravo, Eric! Still remember it fondly. I wonder to myself every one in a while, was it that bad?? Still think it's the coolest ridge in CO and the greatest of the ridge traverses around these parts. Still remember smelling the fire smell from constant clashing of rocks sliding out underneath you. I would like to go back one of these days.

What a classic!!!!!! It really is. Nice work out there!


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > North Rim Routes > North Chasm View Wall > The Free Nose (5.12)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Apr 23, 2017

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Comments: Amazing route and adventure! A couple things to add:

I don't know why the first 11c R pitch needs a fixed nut. If it's not there, it's a good stance to place it. This pitch seems to scare many away. More should give it a go. There is a great offset cams placement right by the nut.

On the first 12 pitch, I didn't replace the pin, though Jay1975 gave it to me. It's no harder than 10+ to your first piece and 15 ft up. There is a great slider nut in that pin scar now.

Some of ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes > The Wisdom (5.11d R)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: Linking the whole rig in one pitch (p1 to 3) from the ground is the way to go! It puts the icing on the 11d and might just be the best pitch in Eldo, or for that fact the Front Range! With careful slinging, rope drag isn't too bad, and the pump is a little more without hanging on that bolted anchor after the roof. Wild! And a must do!


Location: Colorado > South Platte > West Creek > Thunder Ridge > The Brown Wall > Thunderstruck (5.13)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: Great route. The bolting on this route is kind of weird, but P1 is amazing. P2 is great. Some hard slabbing to the first roof. The first roof is the hardest. I think it would be easier for someone shorter. Super scrunchy stand up move the way I tried. After that, it's basically a jug haul IF you find the right holds ;) Overall, really good! Bring some small TCUs!


Location: Colorado > South Platte > West Creek > Thunder Ridge > The Brown Wall > Gator Boy (5.11 PG13)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: This climb is safe to go ground up and onsight. Just be fairly confident at the grade, and have a good eye for gear. Potential for big falls. Double up on placements when possible. Offset cams are nice.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > West Creek > Thunder Ridge > The For Real Canyon > The Real Deal (5.13c)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Mar 18, 2017

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Comments: Thanks for the addition and work, Mike. Great movement. The holds are really sharp, and the climb stays with you the whole way. Really fun ending. Varied and technical. Cold day sort of mandatory. Didn't send but pieced it together one move at a time. Ha! Burly!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Rincon > Rincon - L of Center Route > Fraid Line (5.13a PG13)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Feb 9, 2017

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Comments: I found a great #3 hand placed Pecker before the run-out that makes this PG. You don't need the #1 stopper doing it this way.


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > North Rim Routes > North Chasm View Wall > The Apparition (5.12b R)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: One of the best in the state, seriously. A couple notes that are useful. Hang your belayer 15 ft below the anchor on the crux pitch. Getting to and above the first bolt is insecure 12a R feeling risking big falls. The fall on the crux part is huge but safe. Super cryptic, insecure, and sequential. Oh and those 10+ pitches are no joke. Make sure you find the right way. Such a great route!!!!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress > To Night (5.9+ R)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: Exciting for 5.10!, but maybe I went the wrong way at the crux. Easy to do in one pitch and lower to the ground with a 70m rope. I'd say it's on the verge of X. Definitely R. Slider nut and a 0.5 is about all you get.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress > Night (5.11 X)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: One of the best in Eldo!


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > North Rim Routes > Aretes > Sistine Reality (5.11+ R)
By: Noah McKelvin When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: You shouldn't do this route. ;) Props to the FA team. Also to note, there was a rattlesnake hanging out in a finger crack 200 ft from the top. I pissed it off and almost got bit when I jammed the crack. Exciting.


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