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Member Since: Apr 7, 2011
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
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Nick Schlichtman
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Point Rank: # 5,795
Total Points: 100

11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 880 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 20 | Page Improvements | Comments 32 | Posts 27 | Stars 714 | Ratings 87
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > South Platte > Cathedral Spires Area > Cynical Pinnacle > Full Facial (aka Only the L... (5.13+)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Went and gave this the ole college try. The 5.12 pitch is absolutely amazing. Sustained, beautiful movement on great holds. A four star pitch by itself. The crux pitch was nails. Definitely above my pay grade and honestly don't have much place talking about it (but stoke is high, and will anyways). Was able to free all but one move up to the 7th bolt. Which I think would be 13a-ish on its own. And that's not even the meat of the difficulties. Skin was definitely a factor due to major flaila... more >>


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > North Rim Routes > North Chasm View Wall > Straight Out Da Projects (5.12 R)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Nov 12, 2017

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Comments: Wild, rowdy, and awesome!

I found this to be quite a serious outing with many no fall moments on challenging terrain. I did the route as depicted in Vic's guidebook, including the straight up dihedral variation on P4 and independent 5.12a finish. The dihedral needs traffic but has some fantastic, however runout, climbing. The new independent pitch has a runout and insecure 11+ section on pegmatite with very serious fall consequence, capital R rated. Bolt 10 or so ft below and a fair distance... more >>


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Castle Valley > The Priest > Excommunication (5.13a)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Oct 9, 2017

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Comments: One of the bigger rest holds about 3/4 up on the first pitch came off. It was very loose already when we got to it. Good 3/4 pad crimp is left in its place, however on the other side of the arete and lower. And the rest you could get there is no longer. Still goes, but this pitch may be a bit harder now, maybe in the 12+ range (compared to the original grade) due to no rest and a bigger move off a smaller hold.


Location: Colorado > Grand Junction Area > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... > The Access Fund Trailhead > ... > Echoes (5.12d)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Oct 2, 2017

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Comments: 12+ seems fair. 2nd 5.12 pitch felt significantly harder than the 1st, maybe even 13a. This may be a height/reach matter though. Regardless, cool rock climb. That first 5.12 pitch sure is a blast and very memorable.


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > The Armory > The Gauntlet (5.12d) > Photo
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Sep 29, 2017

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Comments: Nice! You got a gear lead in the works Andy?


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Bastille > The Bastille - N Face > Inner Space (5.11b X)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Sep 8, 2017

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Comments: Lots of lichen...zero chalk. The seriousness of this route guards some of the most intriguing and fun face climbing in Eldo. Don't sleep on the heads up "10a" climbing, spooky but fantastic! Only detraction would be the lichen, but that's due to the minimal traffic. The juice is worth the squeeze on his one. Full value onsight effort.

P.S. Did not notice any "loose hold", at least that was needed. Don't let previous comments deter you.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Glacier Gorge > Chiefshead Northwest Face > Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Aug 6, 2017

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Comments: Got caught in rain on pitch 1. Had to bail off 2 nuts and sling around the end of P1. This is not meant to be an anchor, and I don't want someone clipping in and sitting back. Not the most bombproof anchor.

Probably best that the next person that goes up there just clean it.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > Mt. Evans > The Black Wall > Undertow (free) (5.11+)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Jul 2, 2017

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Comments: Gonna mirror other comments here...up there with some of the best routes I've done in CO. Beautiful splitter corners and ROOFS. Challenging and sustained the whole way. Grading on this one will keep you honest. Appreciate all the effort that got the route to were it's at.


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Village of Oak Creek > Oak Creek Spire Area > ... > Poquito Bandito (5.11+)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Feb 5, 2017

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Comments: Dyno beta for the win. That last tips jam just insecure/painful enough to prevent establishing my feet much higher. However, couldn't clean it up enough on my second go to stick it for a send. Fun route.


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Oak Creek Canyon > *The Waterfall* > The Left Wall > Inz and Outz (5.12c)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Feb 5, 2017

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Comments: Ripped off the "crimp slot" at the 3rd bolt. Sinker pocket remains. Probably not much harder, is now a more precise deapoint-ish move and I felt I was able to get a quick shake from the now absent hold. Thought this was a tricky read. Felt hard for the grade on the onsite. Could see 12c being fair with the beta. Don't expect a clip up as there is some exciting climbing to do. Fun and thoughtful. I think the finish Toast describes feels more natural (read direct), but can respect th... more >>


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Oak Creek Canyon > *The Waterfall* > The Left Wall > Guacamole (5.11-)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Feb 5, 2017

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Comments: The description and star rating given here don't do this climb justice. This route is really great. Thought the movement was very nice. Follows a splitter crack of about every size with good stemming. Fun fun fun.


Location: Colorado > Glenwood Springs > Glenwood Canyon > International Buttress > The International (5.10+)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: Looks like the flake on the crux pitch is gone. Don't worry though, Still plenty of terrifying rock left in its place.

I left my TC Pros at the top. I will not be returning to get them...if someone does do this route and wants to bring 'em down, I'll be happy to share stories of the ascent over beer.


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > South Rim Routes > Tague Yer Time (5.12)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: Just phenomenal rock climbing. The 5.12 pitches are getting a lot of love in the comments. The 5.11 climbing is pretty great as well and really tie the climb together making it into the beautiful route it is. Just don't want those pitches to feel left out....

Noah and I did it in 2 days. Day 2 felt like a fight. Maybe due to lack of fitness and too much whiskey during our night at the bivy.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Turkey Rocks > Turkey Tail > I Turkey/ Resurrection (5.12a)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: Bolts are scary on this thing. Buttonheads with spinners. Just an FYI.


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Wall of the '90s > .30-06 (5.12a)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: Still pretty new to the area, so may not be qualified to say, but this has got to be one of the better crack climbs in the immediate Front Range! A super fun and sporty sequence halfway up gives you a break between all the bomber jamming. A really nice, long pitch.


Location: Colorado > Steamboat Springs > South of Town > Stagecoach Dam Area
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Sep 26, 2015

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Comments: What about the basalt cliffs at this area, right by the damn/reservoir? They ripe for picking?


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Winslow Areas > East Clear Creek > Winslow Wall > ... > Anti-Venom (5.11+)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: "Rowdy" was used to define this route to me and I would agree. Fun and somewhat committing (but safe) moves throughout. Glad I got on this. A great mixed route.


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Winslow Areas > East Clear Creek > Winslow Wall > ... > God Save the Queen (5.12c)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Short route with fun, powerful movement throughout. Looks like 2 possible sequences possible once established on the flake. Ended up going right. Definitely not to be missed!


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Winslow Areas > East Clear Creek > Winslow Wall > ... > Sh'ash Nizhitl (The Bear th... (5.12c)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: Easy terrain on softer rock to the high first bolt. Could protect with a cam. Technical and thin crux to good rest, then easier but sustained crimping to chains. Great movement on this one.


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > Isolation Canyon > Main Wall - North > Intermission (5.11c)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: The second pitch of this route is amazing, sustained with thin positive holds, 2 very fun challenging cruxes. Not to be missed.


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > Isolation Canyon > Finktion Wall > Finktion Arete (5.11c)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: May 30, 2013

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Comments: I think the 2 times Ive been on this route ive finished both left and right around the arete. Dont remember which one felt easier.


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Lower Devil's Canyon > The Refuge > ... > L.S.D. (5.10a)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: Very fun route! Bolted very well. Fun consistent movement to the top.


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Lower Devil's Canyon > The Refuge > ... > The Torch
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: Area is still pretty chossy. I would suggest bringing a helmet along. Bits of loose rock were flying off the routes all day. Theres definitely some solid stuff, just needs to clean up a bit.

Thanks to those who put the work into the area and thanks for sharing all the route info including a pretty nice pdf/guide.


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Lower Devil's Canyon > The Refuge > ... > Bee's Brunch (5.7)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: As far as I could tell there are not anchors for this climb. You can however build a natural anchor at the top, belay your partner up, and then do an easy down climb to get back to the "lunch slab".


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Lower Devil's Canyon > The Refuge > ... > Live and Let Dyno (5.11c/d)
By: Nick Schlichtman When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: Dont let the name scare you off. Can be done completely static. Still a lot of loose rock at the base of the torch. Fun route that puts you in a very cool/exposed position.


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