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Member Since: Sep 1, 2009
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Nick Weinberg

Nick Weinberg
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Point Rank: # 4,056
Total Points: 161
Last Year: 22
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 198 | Routes | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 121 | Posts 57 | Stars 6 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Subline (5.10d)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Sorry folks, but this is not 5.10!

Maybe if you TR this thing into submission if might feel like 5.10. However, I think the ground-up onsight lead grade is solid 5.11 - and very sustained at that, with multiple cruxes. The issue is that some of the gear placements compete with the finger placements, making it a pumpy lead. So a successful onsight lead is an impressive undertaking.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Unconquerable Crack (5.10a)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Really enjoyable climb!!!! Steep with good gear, and some good rests midway up. You can get away with a single rack up to a #3 which fits in the back of the wide crack nicely w/ long sling. And lots of good nut placements. I would say 9+ if you climb it right or 5.10 if you miss some key features.

Please watch out for several decent sized loose blocks at the easy top section. I can foresee a very bad situation in which a pumped climber gets to the top and carelessly pulls on the loose blo... more >>


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Vector (5.8+)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Easier than it looks - face holds help. Much easier than Carey Corner IMO.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Carey Corner (5.8)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: From my few forays to CT climbing areas I've noticed that CT climbers like to sandbag outsiders. In my opinion, as an experienced crack climber from the ADK's, this is probably stout 5.8 versus moderate 5.9 - but who cares - it is an awesome pitch with great gear - so get on it!! And you don't need big gear necessarily. Also several brick-sized loose chockstones in the R crack that someone knocked out and almost hit me! Watch out!


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Wiessner Crack (5.8)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Looks like you need wide gear from the ground, but it actually tapers down to finger size. Don't need anything larger than a #2; bring small to medium sized cams instead of the big stuff.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : YMC Route (5.9)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: This climb is as good as climbing gets. Steep, exciting, great face climbing into a steep exposed corner. You don't need to place gear in the crappy flake below the crux. There are bomber small nuts/RP's and small cams, and you can place several pieces from a good stance, then just gun it to the top!


Location: CT : Central Valley : East Peak : Amphitheater : Cat Crack (5.10)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Oct 28, 2016

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Comments: Nice hand crack - reminiscent of On The Loose at Spider's Web. It is sustained, but as soon as it starts to feel hard, a bomber hand jam appears. Definitely need to be delicate climbing through the loose flakes crammed in the lower wide section. A crow bar down low might make it safer, but harder moving up the off width.


Location: CT : Central Valley : East Peak : Amphitheater : Squirrel Cage (5.9)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Oct 28, 2016

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Comments: Upper corner is hard for the grade - tight hands - but great splitter climbing. Overall nice pitch! Don't need large cams for the lower easier wide crack.


Location: CT : Central Valley : East Peak : Amphitheater : Black Corner (5.8+)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Oct 28, 2016

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Comments: Technical gear placements down low with some run-out and ground fall potential. Not for the new 5.8 leader. Reasonable lead for an experienced trad leader. Critical small nut placement at crux.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Broadway (5.8)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Oct 28, 2016

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Comments: There are lots of good nut placements on the bottom half of this route (i.e. NOT PG-13) which keep the climbing reasonable for the experienced leader. Maybe bring some extra small to medium nuts, and make sure you put long slings on them to avoid zipping. The gear gets better as you get higher, and the climbing gets harder.

I would say this is not a good lead for the new 5.8 leader since the gear placements, though good, are more spaced and technical on the lower half of the climb, therefore in... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Wilmington Region : Beaver Brook : Save a Tree, Eat a Beaver (5.10d)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Great climb. The other 10s at this cliff are also definitely worth doing, despite their lack of stars in the book.....


Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Echo Crag : 8. The Hone Wall "Proper" (... : Race Day (5.9+)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: Great steep pitch - better and cleaner than the one to the left IMO, but you might as well do all of the climbs on this wall!


Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Echo Crag : 8. The Hone Wall "Proper" (... : No Pigs (5.8)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: Bolts are spaced but never dangerous if you are OK climbing with gear below your feet....Great pitch!


Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Echo Crag : 8. The Hone Wall "Proper" (...
By: Nick Weinberg When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: Great pitch - one move wonder at a bolt.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Vertigo (5.9 A0 R)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Aug 21, 2016

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Comments: Just got on this again after several years away. Someone finally replaced the bolts at the top of the arching finger crack pitch - thanks! The two bolts at the top of the halfmoon pitch might need to be replaced as well - they are looking pretty rusty, despite shiny hangers. The linking of pitch 2 and 3 in the route description seems odd to me, and I want to reiterate that linking 1 and 2 followed by 3 and 4 seems to make the most sense if you have doubles. And definitely do the crescent moon va... more >>


Location: NH : WM: Pinkham / Presidentials : Huntington Ravine : Mechanics' Route (5.10b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 22, 2016

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Comments: This is a really great route with three very varied pitches - it has a little bit of everything.

Here is some beta to keep in mind. The first pitch looks very dirty and vegetated and appears not to protect well from the base, however, adequate gear placements appear as you climb. Nonetheless, it would be very nice if someone felt like scrubbing that corner - it would just be a bit more aesthetic. The second pitch does have a loose mungy section below the roof. Care must be taken not to dislod... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Phase III (5.9+)
By: Nick Weinberg When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: Awesome off hands/large fist splitter corner. As mentioned, no true off width moves. Deserves more stars and more traffic. The old BD 3.5 cam would probably be the best fit. I imagine this would be a cruise if you have large hands! I was surprised by how aesthetic and classic this pitch was!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Flying & Drinking and Drink... (5.10a PG13)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 18, 2015

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Comments: I said "a bit of a serious lead." Not "a serious lead." So technically I said it was less than or some fraction of a serious lead and your comment Jim does not apply to me!!!

How about if we call it a "technical lead" or a "thoughtful lead."??

Whatever - the bottom line is: if you've got some small gear, and know how to place it, and have a decent lead head - go lead it! You will enjoy it.

The upper runout is really a non issue - very easy with gear not that far below you.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: Thinking about heading to Taiwan for two weeks in late February to climb at Long Dong. Kind of scary story about both anchor bolts failing on someone. Any updates on what the status of a lot of the bolts is? Is it still worth going? Or are too many of the bolts of questional integrity to make it safe?

Thanks!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Region : Hurricane Crag : Afraid of the Dark (5.8)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: This is a great route that I think probably deserves three stars. Nice crack climbing then some tricky, thoughtful moves to the chockstone (bring a double length sling to sling this otherwise it is slightly runout - but easy above), and really cool textured rock in the chimney, to an exposed but easy stemming finish.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Region : Hurricane Crag : Forever Wild (5.10b/c)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: In the intro, I would say "sustained OFF fingers crack."

This thing is a forgotten gem for some reason, but fortunately it is very clean. Steep, sustained pure splitters like this are rare in the Adirondacks.

Tricky move at the top getting into the fist crack, especially if you are short with small hands like me! Really classic climb.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Old Forge Region : Eagle Falls : Lloyds of Lowville (5.10a)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: Yes, harder start for the vertically challenged, but makes it a fun bouldery move that is more rewarding once you get it!...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Old Forge Region : Eagle Falls : Ravenous (5.11a/b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: This felt tricky and awkward to me - but awesome! Felt harder than El Supremo for me......maybe it was the fragrant aroma of the rotting bear carcass that kept wafting up from the right as I was climbing it.....really!!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Old Forge Region : Eagle Falls : The Eagle Has Landed (5.10c)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: Don't bypass the crux on this one! It's one quick move with a huge bolt over your head!!!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Old Forge Region : Eagle Falls : Stihl Water (5.9+)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, tricky but definitely worthwhile route!


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