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Member Since: Sep 1, 2009
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
Contact Nick Weinberg

Nick Weinberg
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Point Rank: # 4,046
Total Points: 161
Last Year: 22
Last 30 Days: 6
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 198 | Routes | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 121 | Posts 57 | Stars 6 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick Weinberg on the second pitch crux. Notice mun...

Nick Weinberg on the second pitch crux. Notice mungy area of loose rock under the roof that should be approached with caution.

NH : WM: Pinkham / Presidentials : ... : Mechanics' Route (5.10b)

Jun 22, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: photo 7

photo 7

Forums : Eastern States : ... : Post

Nov 17, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: photo 6

photo 6

Forums : Eastern States : ... : Post

Nov 17, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: photo 5

photo 5

Forums : Eastern States : ... : Post

Nov 17, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: photo 4

photo 4

Forums : Eastern States : ... : Post

Nov 17, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: photo 3

photo 3

Forums : Eastern States : ... : Post

Nov 17, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: photo 2

photo 2

Forums : Eastern States : ... : Post

Nov 17, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: photo 1

photo 1

Forums : Eastern States : ... : Post

Nov 17, 2015

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Subline (5.10d)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Sorry folks, but this is not 5.10!

Maybe if you TR this thing into submission if might feel like 5.10. However, I think the ground-up onsight lead grade is solid 5.11 - and very sustained at that, with multiple cruxes. The issue is that some of the gear placements compete with the finger placements, making it a pumpy lead. So a successful onsight lead is an impressive undertaking.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Unconquerable Crack (5.10a)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Really enjoyable climb!!!! Steep with good gear, and some good rests midway up. You can get away with a single rack up to a #3 which fits in the back of the wide crack nicely w/ long sling. And lots of good nut placements. I would say 9+ if you climb it right or 5.10 if you miss some key features.

Please watch out for several decent sized loose blocks at the easy top section. I can foresee a very bad situation in which a pumped climber gets to the top and carelessly pulls on the loose blo... more >>


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Vector (5.8+)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Easier than it looks - face holds help. Much easier than Carey Corner IMO.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Carey Corner (5.8)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 7, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: From my few forays to CT climbing areas I've noticed that CT climbers like to sandbag outsiders. In my opinion, as an experienced crack climber from the ADK's, this is probably stout 5.8 versus moderate 5.9 - but who cares - it is an awesome pitch with great gear - so get on it!! And you don't need big gear necessarily. Also several brick-sized loose chockstones in the R crack that someone knocked out and almost hit me! Watch out!


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Wiessner Crack (5.8)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Looks like you need wide gear from the ground, but it actually tapers down to finger size. Don't need anything larger than a #2; bring small to medium sized cams instead of the big stuff.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : YMC Route (5.9)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: This climb is as good as climbing gets. Steep, exciting, great face climbing into a steep exposed corner. You don't need to place gear in the crappy flake below the crux. There are bomber small nuts/RP's and small cams, and you can place several pieces from a good stance, then just gun it to the top!


Location: CT : Central Valley : East Peak : Amphitheater : Cat Crack (5.10)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Oct 28, 2016

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Comments: Nice hand crack - reminiscent of On The Loose at Spider's Web. It is sustained, but as soon as it starts to feel hard, a bomber hand jam appears. Definitely need to be delicate climbing through the loose flakes crammed in the lower wide section. A crow bar down low might make it safer, but harder moving up the off width.


Location: CT : Central Valley : East Peak : Amphitheater : Squirrel Cage (5.9)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Oct 28, 2016

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Comments: Upper corner is hard for the grade - tight hands - but great splitter climbing. Overall nice pitch! Don't need large cams for the lower easier wide crack.


Location: CT : Central Valley : East Peak : Amphitheater : Black Corner (5.8+)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Oct 28, 2016

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Comments: Technical gear placements down low with some run-out and ground fall potential. Not for the new 5.8 leader. Reasonable lead for an experienced trad leader. Critical small nut placement at crux.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Broadway (5.8)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Oct 28, 2016

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Comments: There are lots of good nut placements on the bottom half of this route (i.e. NOT PG-13) which keep the climbing reasonable for the experienced leader. Maybe bring some extra small to medium nuts, and make sure you put long slings on them to avoid zipping. The gear gets better as you get higher, and the climbing gets harder.

I would say this is not a good lead for the new 5.8 leader since the gear placements, though good, are more spaced and technical on the lower half of the climb, therefore in... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Wilmington Region : Beaver Brook : Save a Tree, Eat a Beaver (5.10d)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Great climb. The other 10s at this cliff are also definitely worth doing, despite their lack of stars in the book.....


Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Echo Crag : 8. The Hone Wall "Proper" (... : Race Day (5.9+)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: Great steep pitch - better and cleaner than the one to the left IMO, but you might as well do all of the climbs on this wall!


Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Echo Crag : 8. The Hone Wall "Proper" (... : No Pigs (5.8)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: Bolts are spaced but never dangerous if you are OK climbing with gear below your feet....Great pitch!


Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Echo Crag : 8. The Hone Wall "Proper" (...
By: Nick Weinberg When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: Great pitch - one move wonder at a bolt.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Vertigo (5.9 A0 R)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Aug 21, 2016

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Comments: Just got on this again after several years away. Someone finally replaced the bolts at the top of the arching finger crack pitch - thanks! The two bolts at the top of the halfmoon pitch might need to be replaced as well - they are looking pretty rusty, despite shiny hangers. The linking of pitch 2 and 3 in the route description seems odd to me, and I want to reiterate that linking 1 and 2 followed by 3 and 4 seems to make the most sense if you have doubles. And definitely do the crescent moon va... more >>


Location: NH : WM: Pinkham / Presidentials : Huntington Ravine : Mechanics' Route (5.10b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is a really great route with three very varied pitches - it has a little bit of everything.

Here is some beta to keep in mind. The first pitch looks very dirty and vegetated and appears not to protect well from the base, however, adequate gear placements appear as you climb. Nonetheless, it would be very nice if someone felt like scrubbing that corner - it would just be a bit more aesthetic. The second pitch does have a loose mungy section below the roof. Care must be taken not to dislod... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Phase III (5.9+)
By: Nick Weinberg When: May 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome off hands/large fist splitter corner. As mentioned, no true off width moves. Deserves more stars and more traffic. The old BD 3.5 cam would probably be the best fit. I imagine this would be a cruise if you have large hands! I was surprised by how aesthetic and classic this pitch was!


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