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Member Since: Mar 6, 2006
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Nick Stayner
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Point Rank: # 297
Total Points: 2,305

83 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Nick Stayner been climbing?










Contributions


All 2180 | Routes 146 | Areas 32 | Approach Trails | Photos 73 | Page Improvements | Comments 327 | Posts 778 | Stars 732 | Ratings 92
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Valhalla : Oblivion Roof : Valkyrie (5.11d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 10, 2017

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Comments: Great movement and a good choice of line, but unfortunately didn't seem to get much cleaning. Still a decent amount of loose, potentially dangerous stuff waiting to come off this thing below the roof, and lots of annoying small stuff in the roof. And who the F(#*% uses a rap ring setup on a super steep Tensleep roof route in 2017?!

IMO, this would be a 3-4 star route if someone pried off the loose shit, tapped the smaller stuff off with a hammer, gave it the leaf blower treatment, another ... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Eastern Big Horns : Crazy Woman Crags : Crazy Woman Cliff : Total Eclipse of the Heart (5.12c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 24, 2017

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Comments: Whelp... now I have a reason to go back to Crazy Woman :). Looks awesome. Room for more on that buttress? Are you working on anything else?


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 14, 2017

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Comments: It's a sport climbing area. A stick clip will always be helpful. But I can only think of a couple of routes where a stick clip is "mandatory".


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark : Happy Pants (5.12b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 14, 2017

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Comments: Excellent climbing, like a harder version of Joy of Heresy. Great job on this new addition.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark : July Jihad (5.12b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 14, 2017

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Comments: Great route, one of the best of the grade in the Bighorns


Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Black Elk (5.11a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 25, 2017

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Comments: So.... Kincos Eurotaped at the wrists is the beta for the crux? :)


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Lake Point : Downed Tree Wall : Hail Mary (5.12b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 21, 2017

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Comments: 2017 Addendum: I always thought this thing was a little harder than .12b, but now it almost assuredly is after a friend ripped off a crucial chert crimp that was very useful as a stabilizing foothold in the crux. Still a fantastic route and doable.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark : Raiders of the Lost Ark (5.10d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: A 3-star route in 2-star shape- would've benefitted from a good session w/ a leafblower. Though I wouldn't want to hike one out there either :). Still quite fun and a good warmup for the area.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: Much thanks to beccs and the others who busted the new approach in. It rocks. Thanks for the quality new contributions at the crag!


Location: Montana : Bridger Range : Ross Peak : Blue Phoenix (5.12)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: Nice work Evan, this looks awesome.


Location: Wyoming : Eastern Big Horns : Crazy Woman Crags : Crazy Woman Cliff : Bighorn Roundup (5.12c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: BETA SPRAY: Skip clip 8 on the send if you want any hope of a redpoint.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Downtown : Vulvus Godzilicus : Smuggling Grapes (5.11a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: Stars subtracted for "trad anchors" (single-ring type). Ultimate cheapo, short-sighted top anchor setup for sport climbing in Tensleep.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Valhalla : Ministry Wall : Stigmata (5.12a/b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: An excellent climb, on par with any of the classics at the grade in the Bighorns. When I climbed it in late June 2017, the right-hand ring (a chain-quicklink-rap ring type) at the anchor had a crack extending the entire circumference of the ring. I've never seen anything like this before! I would've removed it but I didn't have a wrench to loosen the quicklink. I left a biner up there for redundancy (the left-hand bolt/chain/ring looks fine).


Location: Wyoming : Eastern Big Horns : Piney Creek Canyon : The Shipyard : 3. Mytho Wall : Tanner's Perpetual Motion M... (5.12a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jun 20, 2017

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Comments: Hah- Taylor, you might want to change your FA date info... unless you found a wrinkle in the space time continuum in the cave up there!


Location: Wyoming : Eastern Big Horns : Piney Creek Canyon : The Shipyard
By: Nick Stayner When: Nov 11, 2016

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Comments: Having climbed up here a handful of times, I applaud the crew (esp. Terry- RIP) who had the vision, put all the work into route development, the awesome trail, nicely plaquing things, etc...

That being said, I think the only thing keeping these routes from being four-star mega classic status is that the pockets, large and small, tend to have many sea urchiny, spiny spikes hanging out in them. Maybe I need to toughen up, but a little bit of comfortizing goes a long way guys and gals! It sucks w... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Wolfs Head : Photo
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: You're the best G


Location: Wyoming : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : The Snaz (5.10a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: Hey Suzy!

That is cool to hear you can rap w/ a single 70. I hadn't heard that before. Do you remember how many raps it took? Were you on bolted anchors?

Also, the Snazette actually refers to 4th pitch finger/thin hands crack variation on pitch four, not the last pitch. The last pitch 5.10 variations are Cousin Leroy and Cousin Leroy's Uncle, both rad.



Location: Wyoming : Eastern Big Horns : Piney Creek Canyon : Second Wind Wall : Second Wind (5.12a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Great pitch, as good or better than most of the grade in Tensleep.


Location: Wyoming : Jackson Hole : Hoback Shield
By: Nick Stayner When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: Sorry for leading you guys on "treasure hunts"! I updated the directions to reflect your comments.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Pooh Corner : Tiger Tries Ten Sleep (5.10a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: Um... the guidebook?


Location: Wyoming : Jackson Hole : Rodeo Wall
By: Nick Stayner When: Apr 28, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Greg for all your efforts over the years. Cool to see that Rodeo is still getting some love!


Location: Wyoming : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: I would say that the best descent route for this zone (possibly for the whole DeTow) is the Exit Us rap. This is the rap that starts with the two-bolt anchor on top of Cracko Diablo. With about 10' of 4th class downclimbing, a 70m double-rope rappel will reach the ledge at the base of Soler/TAD/Cracko. Watch your ends!

Alternatively, you can take one 70m rope and hit all the stations, getting back to the ledge in 3 or 4 raps.

IMO this area offers the least potential for getting ropes stuck, b... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Hound Dog Crag : Banga (5.11b/c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: Full value, more sustained than most Tensleep routes at the grade.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Valhalla : Drugs and Sex : Vitamin K (5.12a/b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: ^agreed. Classic climb. Top 10 list IMO.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Sidewalk Buttress : Where the Sidewalk Ends (5.11b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Very unique Tensleep experience. Quality climbing forever! Yes, some of the pockets are a bit dirty, but only because they are massive. Doesn't detract from the experience at all IMO. The "earth journey" comment in the route description here cracked us up!


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