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Member Since: Mar 6, 2006
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
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Nick Stayner
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Point Rank: # 268
Total Points: 2,275

83 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Nick Stayner been climbing?










Contributions


All 2158 | Routes 146 | Areas 32 | Photos 73 | Page Improvements | Comments 324 | Posts 765 | Stars 727 | Ratings 91
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Warbonnet Peak : Black Elk (5.11a)
By: Nick Stayner When: 2 days ago

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Comments: So.... Kincos Eurotaped at the wrists is the beta for the crux? :)


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Lake Point : Downed Tree Wall : Hail Mary (5.12b)
By: Nick Stayner When: 6 days ago

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Comments: 2017 Addendum: I always thought this thing was a little harder than .12b, but now it almost assuredly is after a friend ripped off a crucial chert crimp that was very useful as a stabilizing foothold in the crux. Still a fantastic route and doable.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark : Raiders of the Lost Ark (5.10d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: A 3-star route in 2-star shape- would've benefitted from a good session w/ a leafblower. Though I wouldn't want to hike one out there either :). Still quite fun and a good warmup for the area.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: Much thanks to beccs and the others who busted the new approach in. It rocks. Thanks for the quality new contributions at the crag!


Location: Montana : Bridger Range : Ross Peak : Blue Phoenix (5.12)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: Nice work Evan, this looks awesome.


Location: Wyoming : Eastern Big Horns : Crazy Woman Crags : Crazy Woman Cliff : Bighorn Roundup (5.12c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: BETA SPRAY: Skip clip 8 on the send if you want any hope of a redpoint.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Downtown : Vulvus Godzilicus : Smuggling Grapes (5.11a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: Stars subtracted for "trad anchors" (single-ring type). Ultimate cheapo, short-sighted top anchor setup for sport climbing in Tensleep.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Valhalla : Ministry Wall : Stigmata (5.12a/b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: An excellent climb, on par with any of the classics at the grade in the Bighorns. When I climbed it in late June 2017, the right-hand ring (a chain-quicklink-rap ring type) at the anchor had a crack extending the entire circumference of the ring. I've never seen anything like this before! I would've removed it but I didn't have a wrench to loosen the quicklink. I left a biner up there for redundancy (the left-hand bolt/chain/ring looks fine).


Location: Wyoming : Eastern Big Horns : Piney Creek Canyon : The Shipyard : Tanner's Perpetual Motion M... (5.12a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jun 20, 2017

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Comments: Hah- Taylor, you might want to change your FA date info... unless you found a wrinkle in the space time continuum in the cave up there!


Location: Wyoming : Eastern Big Horns : Piney Creek Canyon : The Shipyard
By: Nick Stayner When: Nov 11, 2016

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Comments: Having climbed up here a handful of times, I applaud the crew (esp. Terry- RIP) who had the vision, put all the work into route development, the awesome trail, nicely plaquing things, etc...

That being said, I think the only thing keeping these routes from being four-star mega classic status is that the pockets, large and small, tend to have many sea urchiny, spiny spikes hanging out in them. Maybe I need to toughen up, but a little bit of comfortizing goes a long way guys and gals! It sucks w... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Wolfs Head : Photo
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: You're the best G


Location: Wyoming : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : The Snaz (5.10a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: Hey Suzy!

That is cool to hear you can rap w/ a single 70. I hadn't heard that before. Do you remember how many raps it took? Were you on bolted anchors?

Also, the Snazette actually refers to 4th pitch finger/thin hands crack variation on pitch four, not the last pitch. The last pitch 5.10 variations are Cousin Leroy and Cousin Leroy's Uncle, both rad.



Location: Wyoming : Eastern Big Horns : Piney Creek Canyon : Second Wind Wall : Second Wind (5.12a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Great pitch, as good or better than most of the grade in Tensleep.


Location: Wyoming : Jackson Hole : Hoback Shield
By: Nick Stayner When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: Sorry for leading you guys on "treasure hunts"! I updated the directions to reflect your comments.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Pooh Corner : Tiger Tries Ten Sleep (5.10a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: Um... the guidebook?


Location: Wyoming : Jackson Hole : Rodeo Wall
By: Nick Stayner When: Apr 28, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Greg for all your efforts over the years. Cool to see that Rodeo is still getting some love!


Location: Wyoming : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: I would say that the best descent route for this zone (possibly for the whole DeTow) is the Exit Us rap. This is the rap that starts with the two-bolt anchor on top of Cracko Diablo. With about 10' of 4th class downclimbing, a 70m double-rope rappel will reach the ledge at the base of Soler/TAD/Cracko. Watch your ends!

Alternatively, you can take one 70m rope and hit all the stations, getting back to the ledge in 3 or 4 raps.

IMO this area offers the least potential for getting ropes stuck, b... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Hound Dog Crag : Banga (5.11b/c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: Full value, more sustained than most Tensleep routes at the grade.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Valhalla : Drugs and Sex : Vitamin K (5.12a/b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: ^agreed. Classic climb. Top 10 list IMO.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Sidewalk Buttress : Where the Sidewalk Ends (5.11b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Very unique Tensleep experience. Quality climbing forever! Yes, some of the pockets are a bit dirty, but only because they are massive. Doesn't detract from the experience at all IMO. The "earth journey" comment in the route description here cracked us up!


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Hound Dog Crag : Munsterlander (5.11c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: This one, along with the other unnamed .11a and Middle of the Road are among the best routes in the canyon of the grade IMO. Great climbing on excellent peanut butter stone.


Location: Wyoming : Eastern Big Horns : Tongue River Canyon : Snag Wall : Pair of Loaded Guns (5.9+)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: Thanks bud, way to promptly fix a stupid situation.


Location: Wyoming : Eastern Big Horns : Tongue River Canyon : Snag Wall : Pair of Loaded Guns (5.9+)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Anchor situation on top 9/14/14- the anchor is bomber, but someone connected the chains with a single, substandard quicklink, giving a perfectly good 2-point bolt anchor a single point of failure. Unfortunately whoever did this really cranked on the quicklink and it's going to take a wrench to pull it off. Bring one up if you read this, or I will next time.


Location: Wyoming : Grand Teton National Park : Blacktail Butte : Lower Blacktail Butte : Higher Education (5.12a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: FA T Bow(man) 2002 or 2003.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Sphinx Sector : Sphinx Wall
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: Check out Tensleep Canyon's facebook page. Team Horst added them during their visit in July. There's a little topo or beta on them.


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