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Member Since: Nov 6, 2007
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact nbrown

Point Rank: # 76
Total Points: 5,259

164 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has nbrown been climbing?










Contributions


All 1831 | Routes 255 | Areas 30 | Photos 471 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 210 | Posts 298 | Stars 550 | Ratings 14
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : White Russians Gone Bananas (5.11a)
By: nbrown When: Feb 6, 2017

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Comments: If you do only the crux pitch you'll need to leave rap gear - the stoppers walked off, again. This is ridiculous. If the hangers weren't bolted to the wall they'd probably be missing too... Way to show appreciation for people contributing their time and hardware.


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Supercrack (5.11d)
By: nbrown When: Feb 6, 2017

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Comments: Needs stainless quicklinks on the anchor. Some knucklehead pilfered the biners and left a single rusty quicklink (on the clean stainless cables). This will only enhance degradation time. Seems like 5.11 climbers would know better.


Location: North Carolina : Laurel Knob
By: nbrown When: Jan 24, 2017

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Comments: Grant, those conditions are fine - just be prepared for ice bombs on groove routes once the sun comes around, as well as extended dry times. Because the water has to melt first, grooves that may be dry initially could start running after you've started up. Laurel is a funny place sometimes.


Location: North Carolina : Looking Glass Rock
By: nbrown When: Jan 12, 2017

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Comments: Heads up: 475-B is closed on the fish hatchery end. Not sure about the other end.


Location: North Carolina : Whiteside Mountain : Southwest Corner : Bat Shit Crazy (5.10+)
By: nbrown When: Jan 7, 2017

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Comments: Fun climb, but careful with clipping the bolt - a protrusion of rock below the hanger threatens to break your carabiner.


Location: North Carolina : Whiteside Mountain : Southwest Corner : Hard Up for Cracks (5.11a)
By: nbrown When: Jan 7, 2017

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Comments: If you're into wide cracks, and IF this thing were cleaned up a lot, this could be a really nice line. The bushes on this thing are probably worse than the dirt factor, but the crack climbing is pretty cool.


Location: North Carolina : Rumbling Bald : Screamweaver Area : Zydygo (5.10c)
By: nbrown When: Dec 20, 2016

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Comments: The flake section is a bit harder now. The nice spike/jug that you could pull/stand on is now gone. Makes for a more legit crack climbing experience but it'd be wise to bring an extra hand size piece or two. It'd also be wise to be careful with gear behind the thin upper portion of the flake - it is thin.


Location: North Carolina : Corner Rock : Photo
By: nbrown When: Dec 17, 2016

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Comments: I'm not much of a boulderer, but that thing looks amazing!


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Sitting Bear : The Flackamite/Pirate wall : Climb and Punishment (5.11a)
By: nbrown When: Dec 6, 2016

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Comments: Got it, thanks for the info Wes.


Location: North Carolina : Whiteside Mountain : Southwest Corner : Bolder Problem in Space (fr... (5.11+) : Photo
By: nbrown When: Nov 1, 2016

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Comments: Excellent shot!


Location: North Carolina : Whiteside Mountain : Left of main southeast face : Treat (5.10+)
By: nbrown When: Oct 26, 2016

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Comments: No new bolts. You must have been on one of the lines downhill to the right - there are about 4 or 5 mixed ones.


Location: North Carolina : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - North : Dandy Line (5.8+)
By: nbrown When: Oct 14, 2016

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Comments: Excellent route! Similar to the first 2 pitches of the Womb in style (mostly finger crack), and easily as good as those pitches. If it's dry, do it. One 60 meter is just enough to get down.


Location: North Carolina : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Mid-Life Crisis (5.9+ PG13)
By: nbrown When: Oct 12, 2016

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Comments: This kind of thing is becoming all too common around here - I recently replaced 2 bolt hangers on the most popular route at Cathey's Creek. Same issue with several sets of anchor 'biners both there and at looking glass. The fact that it seems to be most prevalent at the very crags where climbers depend on fixed gear the most speaks to this new era of entitlement. Sean, next time I'm there I'll put one back on and mak... more >>


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Gold Coast Cliffs : The Underworld : Photo
By: nbrown When: Sep 11, 2016

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Comments: Eric,

Sorry to hear you guys were unable to find the underworld. I drew the best approach on your map in red -- it's pretty much the only way people access it. Directions to the parking spot are listed on the main gold coast page as well as in my comments above. But for whatever reason they're still not listed on this page yet.
Rock Climbing Photo: Underworld
Underworld



Location: North Carolina : Looking Glass Rock : East Face/Guides Wall (Lef... : Unknown face right (5.10)
By: nbrown When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: This is a ways right of the bolts. Maybe 75' or so. The line listed as unknown 5.9 pg13 is the one with the bolts (2 sets) on it. The route you posted should be left of that as well.


Location: North Carolina : Cathey's Creek Crag : The Cave : Old Crow (5.11-)
By: nbrown When: May 26, 2016

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Comments: Kyle, I added loctite on this route. I generally prefer not to use it on the FA (new bolts). That's because new placements usually develop some wiggle room under the hangers as the rock beneath them wears, requiring further tightening to fix spinning hangers. Loctite or lock-nuts can make subsequent tightening of nuts problematic for wedge type anchor (i.e. disengaging the wedges).


Location: North Carolina : Cathey's Creek Crag : The Cave : Old Crow (5.11-)
By: nbrown When: Mar 17, 2016

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Comments: Bolt 3 hanger has been fixed.


Location:
By: nbrown When: Feb 3, 2016

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Comments: 1. Clip the bolt-end biner where the spine rests against the rock (or flip it over). Or simply clip the ring instead (these anchors tend to gouge biners anyway). Prevents breaking the nose of the biner as well as accidental opening of the gate should it be pushed against the wall (the latter situation is largely reduced with modern notch-gate biners).

2. Untwist the draws. Twisted draws will want to naturally untwist, resulting in a twisted rope or either a rope unclipping itself from them (hap... more >>


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Sitting Bear : Sitting Bear Spire : Unknown 12a (5.12a)
By: nbrown When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: Rebolted this one today. The old bolts looked horrendous but actually weren't as bad as they appeared. Much better now though.


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Gold Coast Cliffs : The Underworld
By: nbrown When: Aug 19, 2015

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Comments: Taylor,
This pic of the Gold Coast shows the northern "canyons". The Underworld is just a bit south (left in picture) of what you can see in this photo. The best approach takes the shortcut shown here on the left side of the pic (down from the high ridge), and those directions are posted on the main Gold Coast page. Just be prepared for a potentially raging bushwhack if no one's been through there lately. Once at the RJ trail walk south for maybe 5-10 minutes (haven't been there in a while so do... more >>


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Sitting Bear : Sitting Bear Spire : Original Route (5.9)
By: nbrown When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: Two of the bolts on this line were updated in '96 with carbon steel 5 pieces. They're quite rusty but probably still pretty bomber. The other two (original bolts) are about 50 years old and should not be trusted - and they're not needed if you place a bit of gear next to them, as mentioned above.

The first bolt shown out right in the picture is on a different route that no ones really does. It was a squeeze job of mine and has recently been removed.

The original start uses a stopper in the in... more >>


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Conley Cove : Photo
By: nbrown When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: Jonathan - yes, that's the one.


Location: North Carolina : Moore's Wall : Hanging Garden : Stars and Bars (5.12b)
By: nbrown When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Cool, that makes sense. Thanks for the beta!


Location: North Carolina : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Circus Wall : Bimbo's Bulge (5.10+)
By: nbrown When: Jun 20, 2015

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Comments: Did this route today and found the roof to be mid 5.11. There is a good small pocket/edge at the base of where the old hold used to be. I moved more left under the roof than usual and used the pocket for a right handhold to make the big reach. Also, you can get a finger size cam above your head if you want to top rope the move. This route climbs almost the same as before, just with a bigger reach from a smaller hold. Fun stuff!


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Linville River Crag : Casual Corner (5.10)
By: nbrown When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: The big loose block (that most people pulled on) near the top was trundled a while back making for a safer but slightly more interesting move.


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