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Member Since: Aug 15, 2010
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Nate Ball
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Point Rank: # 43
Total Points: 7,906

29 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 2443 | Routes 351 | Areas 77 | Photos 675 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 283 | Posts 84 | Stars 669 | Ratings 302
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : East Side : ... : Puck (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Sustained route right up to the crux at the top. Not doable as a 5.10- without going left into Much Ado and even from there it's a pump to the chains. Also second stopping at the lower chains.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (5) Delirium Tremens : Delirium Tremens (5.10-)
By: Nate Ball When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Rack: C4 #.5-3, 3x #1


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (4) Mud Pile : Marsupials Traverse (5.8 R)
By: Nate Ball When: 6 days ago

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Comments: We started via The Wormhole, that scrappy chimney just uphill from Carla. This cut out the Mud Pile summit and obviously some much better climbing. The bolted move over the hump on P3 is quite spicy. P4 is just a fun run-out but try to place some gear to give your follower a path... and there are some decent tiny cams placements near a bolt-sans-hanger if'n you don't want to walk all the way back to the bolts. P5 down-climbing the back si... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (1) Koala Rock : Thin Air (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: 6 days ago

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Comments: The two sport pitches should be linked. The bolt placement for the second crux means you either have to avoid the obvious hold out right or risk a pendulum fall. The route can be rapped in two with a 60m if going to the anchor for Through Being Cool which are quick-clips. This is actually far preferable to walking off provided there is nobody coming up behind you (don't be that guy).


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Big Drum (5.11b)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 18, 2017

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Comments: This route and those adjacent have been rebolted with titanium.


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (2) Dropzone Area : Tribal Therapy (5.8+)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 18, 2017

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Comments: Currently covered in dirt and debris. Needs an aggressive cleaning before it's an enjoyable climb again.


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (6) Main Cliff : Lion of Judah (aka Sugar an... (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 18, 2017

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Comments: The hand crack start to the ledge is stellar. From there, it's a ramble for about 40' with very minimal protection, the best being a shallow flared pod that you might or might not get a reliable #.75 into. At the flake below the roof, there is a decent #.4 placement which can be backed up with a (offset?) nut nearby. Pulling over this and onto the slab is a really fun sequence. The route itself is good, but definitely not a great choice if you&... more >>


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Long Lane Loose (5.10a) : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 16, 2017

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Comments: The fish-eye lens makes the route look super-short!


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (4) Maple Tree Cluster : The Head Wall (5.10-)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 9, 2017

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Comments: Very dirty, but not enough to really diminish the quality.


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (6) Main Cliff : The Lonesome Winner (5.10a/b)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 9, 2017

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Comments: Got a 0 Metolius stuck just before the crux. Anybody who can get it out is welcome to it.


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : The Sickle (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: Led it again yesterday, and apparently need to once again clarify that this route is a 5.8 nowhere. After climbing sandstone hand/fist cracks in Liming, China for a month I can assuredly say this route is easily 9+/10- pretty much everywhere else in the world.


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (1) North Face : Risky Business (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: Strange, balancy, slopey sequence through the traverse. Once around the corner, the bolts are homemade angles from who knows when. You can also continue left into Gandalf's 2nd pitch.


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte : (91) Breakfast Cracks
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 19, 2017

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Comments: My friend Erik and I have been cleaning up and re-equipping the four best routes here. So far Espresso and Birds of Paradise have new stainless steel anchor bolts, and eventually Blackberry Jam and White Rabbit will as well. Hopefully these won't be chopped.

As of March, three of these routes were still dripping but BoP was mostly dry. Access is a bit easier than previously believed as you can climb down through a small cave betwe... more >>


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (7) Second Cave : Sunshine Daydream (5.8) : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 13, 2017

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Comments: The bolts are tagged incorrectly, unless all 316-steel bolts are now being considered dangerous. They are (as of 2017) still four years within their minimum life expectancy. The "detached boulder" is fugging enormous and isn't going anywhere.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (7) Second Cave : Sunshine Daydream (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 13, 2017

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Comments: The bolts are tagged incorrectly, unless all 316-steel bolts are now being considered dangerous. They are (as of 2017) still four years within their minimum life expectancy. The "detached boulder" is fugging enormous and isn't going anywhere.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Very Inconvenient (5.11+)
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 4, 2017

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Comments: This route, if climbed with the intuitive holds available, is not a 5.12a either at Long Dong or anywhere else. If Nowhere Man were the benchmark 12a, then this is definitely easier, more like Black-Faced Man or First Corner. Definitely not as hard as Big Rock Falling or Coach Demonstrates.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (5) Grand Auditorium : Freedom Crack (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 24, 2017

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Comments: Since the summer of 2016, this route has been the site of annual peregrine falcon nesting. The nest has been built in a deep, wide horizontal very close to the anchor ledge of the 2nd pitch. The entire Grand Auditorium is closed to climbing from roughly February to July, and it is advised to avoid this route until the final chick has left the nest, which may happen as late as August.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Reach for the Sky (5.11b PG13)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 13, 2017

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Comments: The bolt protecting the crux needs to be moved, plain and simple. I've done the route with and without the cam placement and personally I felt better making the clip with the cam there. You should communicate with your belayer about what is going to happen at that part and have them ready to give a soft catch if you skip the placement or, if you're working it and have the cam in, to keep you short before you make the next clip. You are definitely less like... more >>


Location: Washington : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Horsethief Butte
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 12, 2017

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Comments: There are only a few short sections with worthwhile roped climbs. A crash pad would be far more useful if you're not set on doing longer routes. Olson's NW Oregon book mostly lists boulder problems, but does include the Entrance Cracks and a few at the Long Wall. These are pretty great, though maybe not worth the trip by themselves because of how short they are. These two walls are mostly north-facing but do get nice afternoon sun. Great place to bring beg... more >>


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : {10} Backdoor : Big Rock Falling (5.12-)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 11, 2017

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Comments: There is a lot of gym-climbing mentality when it comes to "the right way" to climb routes around here, which might explain some of the fluctuation in grading, but not all of it. The intuitive line definitely felt at least as hard as Coach Demonstrates (easier than graded) but also requires you to make some long reaches to clip near the top. Most 11+/12- routes feel soft for the grade - Very Inconvenient, Black-Face Man, First Corner, T... more >>


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Kevlar Vest (5.10d) : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 6, 2017

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Comments: Things change. I'm not sure there has ever been a "trad ethic" or any ethic at all for that matter. The dude who bolted the upper crack is a big deal in Taipei, and so his work goes unchallenged. Recent rebolting has included routes that were FA'd on gear and are perfectly safe without the bolts... it's all about convenience here. Thankfully no established trad routes have been retro-bolted since 2010.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (2) Clocktower : Wedding Day (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 29, 2017

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Comments: The rap station described above has been replaced by rope-threaded tubular webbing with a titanium ring. Solid.


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Mt. Hood : South Side Route (PG13)
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 27, 2017

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Comments: Second the "do it in winter" sentiment. I had the summit to myself for awhile on a day of perfect visibility. Bring snowshoes and trekking poles! You'll use them all the way up to just below the Hogsback which is 90% of the slog. I went the "old chute" way which is maybe slightly less scary but remains in exposed territory longer, and it's more of a detour, and then there's the... more >>


Location: Asia : Thailand : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: Titanium is the only trustworthy material for use in bolting a seaside crag. Stainless steel glue-ins tend to last longer than expansion bolts, which are often not stainless and corrode all the quicker. There is a new bolt that should be added to this list and that's the Eterna bolt from Titan Climbing. It doesn't make much difference these days since nearly everything around Tonsai/Railay has been re-bolted.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (6) First Cave : Sorry Valentine (5.10)
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 2, 2017

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Comments: The route Happy Valentine's Day has been rebolted with titanium.


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