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Rock Climbing Photo: Some route at Smith Rock


Member Since: Aug 15, 2010
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Nate Ball
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 2360 | Routes 346 | Areas 77 | Photos 662 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 257 | Posts 84 | Stars 647 | Ratings 285
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : South Valley
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 12, 2016

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Comments: You can get a ride from the hostel owner for ¥20 each way, split between each passenger.


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Li Ming (黎明) : Dogs : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 12, 2016

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Comments: Not really a crag dog... saw him a couple times. Tons of other dogs in town as well.


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 11, 2016

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Comments: Just got back from nearly a month in Liming and have a few bits of advice and insight to share...

Food
My wife and I are vegetarians, and we found it very easy to get by as long as you're not picky about meat grease in your food. Dishes from the restaurants tend to be extremely oily, so we stuck to soup (汤 tāng) and fried rice (炒饭 chǎo fàn) for dinner. Lots of veggies to choose from. All the restaurants are essentially the same, though vary slightly in oiline... more >>


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : Sahara (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 11, 2016

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Comments: Fantastic route with amazing features! My gear recommendation: #.3-5, double .5-2


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : Truffula Tree (5.10)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 11, 2016

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Comments: First pitch only: thin gear stemming up to hand crack, layback up corner, feet left, wide section with face holds, some bad rock. Continue up to ledge, traverse left under roof and up to anchor.

The bad rock, and the X-marked flakes above (yes, there is a bolt out left), really turned us off pushing further.


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : Morass (5.10)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 11, 2016

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Comments: Very soft for the grade in my opinion. Also, I would recommend #.2-4, no doubles necessary.


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : Cave area
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 11, 2016

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Comments: Routes from Pancakes & Raisins and right are not actually in the Cave Area at all, and are accessed by separate branches from the same approach trail.

The Cave Area itself is not very sheltered and is in direct sunlight for most of the day.

It is highly discouraged to attempt traversing the wall from the Cave Area to the Cretaceous Area unless you enjoy bushwacking and being covered in seed pods.


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : Sword Ladder (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 11, 2016

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Comments: I only did the first two pitches (to the second tree), but the third looked good. First pitch right crack is a great route on its own. Follow the left-trending finger cracks to inset hand-crack. Traverse left and pull up to tree anchor.

Second pitch is ledgy with lots of dirt, pebbles, and suspect rock to awful belay position off of shitty anchor (thin cord + single maillon).

The left variation of the first pitch felt harder than 5.8 grade (at least 5.9) but also fun. Short layback into kneeb... more >>


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : Pandora
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: If you climb at least 5.11, have exhausted everything else at your grade at the Lisu Area, Dinner Wall, and the Holidays, you don't want to take the drive into the South Valley, and don't mind long, steep walks on indiscernible trails, then Pandora is definitely worth a visit. That is to say, after one visit, this 5.10+ crack climber didn't find anything worth coming back for in three weeks.

The area gets a lot less traffic, is mostly ... more >>


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : Artemis (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: The original anchor position (5.8 version) is fully around the corner from the climbing line, and only equipped with a single maillon, such that when lowering off and pulling your rope, your rope will get severely twisted. This is all too common here, however.


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : Soul's Awakening (half) (5.10- A0)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: First pitch is the best hand crack in Liming, with a bit of lay-backing and bolt-clipping to mix things up.

The "second pitch" is really just a bolt ladder extension to the first. I skipped half the bolts even aiding it, kinda silly how many there are. You could also free it if you really wanted to.

Somehow nobody has mentioned the incredibly scary detached slab that you have to squeeze in behind if going right for the 3rd pitch. Hopefully it doesn'@SEMIC... more >>


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : The Warm Up (5.10)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: Holy mackerel that last move! 5.10 if you have abs of steel and know what (not) to do!


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : The Great Owl (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: If using the tree start, the crux should be just getting into the hand crack. From there it's a cruise. Highly recommended triple 1's and 2's.


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : Scarface II (5.10)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: This was my favorite 5.10 of our month-long trip. The #5 was mandatory for me, but didn't need anything smaller than #1. Another anchor setup that will twist the shit out of your rope too.


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : Wind of the Valley (5.10+)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: This has got to be one of the most perfect routes of its kind. It is set off a bit by itself, but if you're in the area, you must do this route! Damn close to full 30m. The tree isn't coming out any time soon.

The setting, the quality of rock, the continuous nature of the climbing... an absolute must-do route!


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : The Raven (5.11-)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: Lots of bad rock at the beginning of the climb. Didn't see any pro going from the original crack across the face to the right into the MeiYouLe variation.


Location: Asia : China : Yunnan Province : Lijiang Area : Li Ming (黎明) : ... : Faraway Corner (5.11-)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: Personally felt this route was incredibly easy relative to others of the given grade. This cannot possibly be harder than Wind of the Valley (10+), which is basically the same except 60' longer and with fewer rests. You can also start the route directly instead of traversing in, which doesn't change the grade. If you don't have a #.1, two #.2 will be fine for the start.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : {10} Backdoor : High Class Quickdraw (5.10+)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 25, 2016

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Comments: The first few bolts are in terrible positions. Ignore the line it seems to indicate and stay left in the crack/weakness... bad pendulum fall potential.


Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay West : The Thaiwand : Getting to Know You (5.10d)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 25, 2016

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Comments: Judging from the MP descriptions of the three routes on this ledge, the one you are describing is more likely to be Taming the East


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (6) First Cave : Agar Jelly (5.10a/b R)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 23, 2016

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Comments: Rebolted in 2016 with titanium U-bolts


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Red Dates Mochi (5.10)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Sandbag at the original grade (10a/b). Try to avoid the flake just before the rightward traverse. It's not necessary and sounds completely hollow.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Three Right Feet (5.10)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Start up the chimney then try to stay on the face as much as possible. Gear placements can be quite tricky - just don't try to force yourself too far left.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (5) Grand Auditorium : Obvious Weakness (5.10-)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: We saw a couple of ancient bolt stumps about 1/3 of the way up this route. Interesting, as there is no documentation of any established climbing here previous to 2015...


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (5) Grand Auditorium : unknown unknowns (5.11)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Be mindful on rappel, as a 60m rope just barely makes it to the ground.


Location: Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : Moon Hill
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: As of 09/2016, there is no "park" to speak of, and the entrance fee to Moon Hill is 14RMB (~$2). So we were told. We "snuck in" by driving just past the entrance to the first road on the right after the entrance, parking our scooter on the side of the road, hopping the low brick/concrete fence and following the obvious dirt path on the other side. It currently passes through some minor construction, but none of the workers paid us any m... more >>


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