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Member Since: Aug 15, 2010
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Nate Ball
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Point Rank: # 43
Total Points: 7,931

29 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Nate Ball been climbing?










Contributions


All 2471 | Routes 351 | Areas 77 | Photos 680 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 294 | Posts 84 | Stars 676 | Ratings 307
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte : (3) Video Bluff
By: Nate Ball When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Very dirty in early season, needs some serious brushing. Lots of dry-tooling scars. Top anchors are very corroded and of questionable integrity. Feet are usually very polished.


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte : (3) Video Bluff : Bikini (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Bolt placements are awful. The "line" is more of an Arabic symbol. Not a recommended lead.


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Coethedral
By: Nate Ball When: 4 days ago

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Comments: The climbing season for this area begins in early June in a low snow year. This year has not been that.

Today, we drove up the very rough road until we were stopped by a significant landslide at around 7 miles in. We got out and walked, passing several lesser slides on our way, until we encountered impassably deep snow probably a mile from the trail. Decided it was best we got headed back. Hopefully a logging crew comes out and clears it soon, otherwise the hike will likely turn people off from... more >>


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Sheer Stress (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: 5 days ago

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Comments: The 2nd pitch can be strung together as a single long pitch if starting with Sheer Energy and slinging the last bolt as you move right. This is highly recommended. Gear to 4".


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Sheer Energy (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Amazing linkup with the 2nd pitch of Sheer Stress!


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Sesame Street (5.9+)
By: Nate Ball When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Can be done as a single pitch via Hanging Gardens first pitch-and-a-half using lots of runners. Save gear from #.75-3. It is tempting to climb the right side of the flake, but I found it was easier to climb the left side straight up into the finger- then hand-jams. Quick-clip anchor. Can be top-roped with a 60m rope.


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Hanging Gardens Route (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: 5 days ago

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Comments: The direct start that involves stemming up between two wide cracks is 1-star at most. It gets a little more fun as you step right around the tree and cross the ledge. From here, I linked into Sesame Street, which can be done with only moderate rope drag if you're very conscious of extending placements.


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Loose Block Overhang (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Climbed it again today and placed the #4 just above the first bulge and thus was very run-out going into the last move (a #5 could also fit here). I down-climbed and stepped right into the hand crack and finished P1 that way. This created too much drag to finish the route as a single pitch though.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock
By: Nate Ball When: May 13, 2017

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Comments: I don't have a guidebook, and the announcement only listed page and route numbers, so thanks for the clarification.

smithrock.com/news-all/peregri...


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock
By: Nate Ball When: May 12, 2017

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Comments: The seasonal raptor closures are fairly widespread and numerous this year, and the details don't seem to be very prominent on the page, so here is the link: smithrock.com/seasonal-closure....

Kiss of the Lepers and the Monument areas have had seasonal closures for awhile and remain in effect. Tents at the Bivy need to be kept away from the rimrock due to nesting bald eagles. Yesterday, the usual Picnic Lunch wall closure was moved to the NE Face of the Smith Rock Group.

PLEASE... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face
By: Nate Ball When: May 12, 2017

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Comments: Multi-pitch routes on this wall are now closed for falcon nesting until July 15th. Single pitch routes under 100' are open.

smithrock.com/seasonal-closure...


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (6) Main Cliff : Wushu Roof (5.10d)
By: Nate Ball When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: I found a #4 Camalot fit in the lower slot, and this would probably be fine to protect the crux. A #5 fit slightly higher. Otherwise just bring gear to #1 Camalot. A fun climb with one-move-wonder crux.


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (6) Main Cliff : 2Trad4U (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: Dirty with widely spaced bolts. Bad ledge fall potential at the crux.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : East Side : ... : Puck (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 24, 2017

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Comments: Sustained route right up to the crux at the top. Not doable as a 5.10- without going left into Much Ado and even from there it's a pump to the chains. Also second stopping at the lower chains.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (5) Delirium Tremens : Delirium Tremens (5.10-)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 23, 2017

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Comments: Rack: C4 #.5-3, 3x #1


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (4) Mud Pile : Marsupials Traverse (5.8 R)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 23, 2017

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Comments: We started via The Wormhole, that scrappy chimney just uphill from Carla. This cut out the Mud Pile summit and obviously some much better climbing. The bolted move over the hump on P3 is quite spicy. P4 is just a fun run-out but try to place some gear to give your follower a path... and there are some decent tiny cams placements near a bolt-sans-hanger if'n you don't want to walk all the way back to the bolts. P5 down-climbing the back si... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (1) Koala Rock : Thin Air (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 23, 2017

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Comments: The two sport pitches should be linked. The bolt placement for the second crux means you either have to avoid the obvious hold out right or risk a pendulum fall. The route can be rapped in two with a 60m if going to the anchor for Through Being Cool which are quick-clips. This is actually far preferable to walking off provided there is nobody coming up behind you (don't be that guy).


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Big Drum (5.11b)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 18, 2017

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Comments: This route and those adjacent have been rebolted with titanium.


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (2) Dropzone Area : Tribal Therapy (5.8+)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 18, 2017

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Comments: Currently covered in dirt and debris. Needs an aggressive cleaning before it's an enjoyable climb again.


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (6) Main Cliff : Lion of Judah (aka Sugar an... (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 18, 2017

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Comments: The hand crack start to the ledge is stellar. From there, it's a ramble for about 40' with very minimal protection, the best being a shallow flared pod that you might or might not get a reliable #.75 into. At the flake below the roof, there is a decent #.4 placement which can be backed up with a (offset?) nut nearby. Pulling over this and onto the slab is a really fun sequence. The route itself is good, but definitely not a great choice if you&... more >>


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Long Lane Loose (5.10a) : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 16, 2017

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Comments: The fish-eye lens makes the route look super-short!


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (4) Maple Tree Cluster : The Head Wall (5.10-)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 9, 2017

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Comments: Very dirty, but not enough to really diminish the quality.


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (6) Main Cliff : The Lonesome Winner (5.10a/b)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 9, 2017

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Comments: Got a 0 Metolius stuck just before the crux. Anybody who can get it out is welcome to it.

Redpoint note: it's harder than any other 10a at the crag, but maybe not as hard as Oracle.


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : The Sickle (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: Led it again yesterday, and apparently need to once again clarify that this route is a 5.8 nowhere. After climbing sandstone hand/fist cracks in Liming, China for a month I can assuredly say this route is easily 9+/10- pretty much everywhere else in the world.


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (1) North Face : Risky Business (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: Strange, balancy, slopey sequence through the traverse. Once around the corner, the bolts are homemade angles from who knows when. You can also continue left into Gandalf's 2nd pitch.


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