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Member Since: Aug 15, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Total Points: 8,340

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 2641 | Routes 359 | Areas 77 | Approach Trails 6 | Photos 713 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 324 | Posts 117 | Stars 712 | Ratings 331
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North Carolina : Pilot Mountain
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 14, 2017

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Comments: Amazing rock, amazing setting, with some weird local character...

We spent a couple days here this past week and really enjoyed the area for the most part. The convenient access from W-S makes it a popular destination. The first day was a cool sunny Sunday and the place was quite literally teeming with people and their babies. Hikers, climbers, dogs, cats, it was a very happy and well-mannered circus. Be aware of this reality and enjoy the outdoor gym in harmony.

On the first day, somehow we m... more >>


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Winter Delight (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 18, 2017

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Comments: The original description of this route was as a "somewhat adventurous sport route." This was dangerously misleading and has been changed to reflect the reality of the climb. Gear is required to prevent a decking fall from 20' and is at least convenient to have when moving between the widely-spaced bolts up high.

Also, the bolts are nearly 30 years old with less-than-ideal hardware and will be replaced soon.

The start is quite precarious and will likely require you to step way rig... more >>


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (7) Jungle Cliff : Closed Project 1 (5.12+)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 10, 2017

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Comments: Any update? Delete this until it's been sent? Or open it?


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (7) Jungle Cliff : Closed Project 2 (5.13)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 10, 2017

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Comments: Any update? Delete this until it's been sent? Or open it?


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Teapot Mtn
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 10, 2017

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Comments: Matt, I would encourage you to get in touch with Roger Wu...

facebook.com/Taiwanoutdoorboul...
taiwanoutdoorbouldering.blogsp...

An example guidebook of his: drive.google.com/file/d/0BzTIP...


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Stuart-Enchantments : Ingalls Peak : Ingalls Peak, South Ridge (5.4)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 31, 2017

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Comments: Bring two ropes!

Very accessible alpine route, and a superb climb, even if it's short relative to the approach, which is not too pleasant. Very easy to find the route once you've made the slog.

We did it in three pitches all the way to the summit. First pitch is a fun easy scramble that should be linked into the second. Hand crack in a slab. Belay on the ledge next to the giant serpentine boulder. From here, scramble up a short step to another ledge and then up the "middle" c... more >>


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Stuart-Enchantments : Mt Stuart : West Ridge (5.6)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 31, 2017

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Comments: We did this route very differently than most. We ended up doing 9 pitches of roped-up 5th-class climbing. This was unintentional, quite taxing, and caused us to get off the mountain really late, but I thought we took a much better line than the gullies most people take. 19 hours camp to camp... with shenanigans.

We started as everyone does up the prominent gully with great solid rock. This branches, but take the obvious path as high as possible to some steep rock around a tower to the shoulder,... more >>


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Free For All, Direct (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 22, 2017

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Comments: Climbed it today while linking it with Dod's and Dastardly. I carried and definitely enjoyed having doubles in cams from BD #.5-4... yes, even the bigger cams were used. I also placed lots of nuts. This pitch is LONG, but can still be rapped with a 70m from the poorly-located rappel anchors.


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Windsurfer (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 22, 2017

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Comments: Perhaps no move harder than 10a but SUSTAINED!


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Link-up: Free for All/Dod'... (5.10c)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 22, 2017

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Comments: My recommendation is to bring doubles in cams from BD #.5-4 plus smaller stuff. A #5 could be substituted for one of the #4's, and would be easier for walking up the OW. I placed nearly my entire rack on Free For All as well as the "2nd" and "3rd" pitches of Dod's which I combined. This is the best way to do it. Placed all of my cams from #.75-3 on Dastardly and still ran it out quite a bit at the top. Route can be easily rapped with a 70m, ... more >>


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Jill's Thrill (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 21, 2017

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Comments: You could link pitches 1&2 together, but communication will be very difficult.


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Fear of Flying (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 20, 2017

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Comments: Rapped down the 2nd pitch after doing Jill's Thrill. The thin seam was filled with grass and even little trees. It also appeared mostly unprotectable, with a single rusty pin right off a ledge. Possibly good, stemmy climbing if you can dig out some tiny placements (or possibly put in some bolts?).

When belaying for the first pitch, which is basically a direct continuation of Little Wing, you'll probably want to build a gear anchor. If linking these two pitches (recomme... more >>


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Free For All, Direct (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: A 70m or two ropes is required to get off the route in a single rap. Otherwise you can rappel to the intermediate anchor of Free For Some and transition from a hanging position (not recommended). If there are climbers on the second pitch of Dod's Jam then set a gear belay slightly lower or, if not continuing higher, move left to the Free For Some top anchor.


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Free for All (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: A 70m or two ropes is required to get off the route in a single rap. Otherwise you can rappel to the intermediate anchor of Free For Some and transition from a hanging position (not recommended). If there are climbers on the second pitch of Dod's Jam then set a gear belay slightly lower or, if not continuing higher, move left to the Free For Some top anchor.


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : Warbonnet Peak : SE Face (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: Cool.


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : Warbonnet Peak : SE Face (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: Something I didn't get from this post or from SummitPost is that the route is not on the south face or even the southeast aspect of the peak. Rather, it is on the east side of the mountain, nearly at the top of the pass, and is oriented only slightly south-eastward. It is a hell of a slog up from Lower Bead Lake, another 500' above the lowest solid rock on the south side.

As of mid-July 2017, after a heavy snow year, the base of the route appeared to be completely covered in snow. The r... more >>


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Klinger Spring : (7) Gods and Monsters Wall : Nosferatu (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: #4 might be nice at the top, but the wider-than-fists section is brief and easier. Fantastically continuous route with rests when you need them.


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Klinger Spring : (7) Gods and Monsters Wall : Power Child (5.10c)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: Pumpy indeed. If doing it as one pitch, rope weight will be a factor when pulling the upper crux. Mostly easier climbing except for the start and a couple moves up high.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 6, 2017

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Comments: Please make this more prominent on the page.



Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Klinger Spring : (7) Gods and Monsters Wall : Oroboros (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: Awkward start up questionable chunks and moss. After you step left under the roof, definitely try to stick with the right crack. Easy crack climbing up to the anchor which is hidden around the corner, requiring a precarious step.


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Klinger Spring : (7) Gods and Monsters Wall : Primal Institution (5.10b/c)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: I actually thought this route was harder than Goddess of Virtue. Two very tricky sequences to onsight.


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Klinger Spring : (7) Gods and Monsters Wall : Yeti's Betty (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: Grading at this place is so weird. This was the one route that I didn't feel was super-soft. Long, fun, a little thought required to find good gear, and some face holds to keep things interesting. We stopped at the Primal Institution anchor. This was already about 100' and definitely liked having doubles of mid sizes.


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Klinger Spring : (7) Gods and Monsters Wall : Monster Crack (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: Lots of looseness and moss down low. At least one #4 is essential, and a #5 would be useful too. I wiggled in a few cams from #1-#3 with a smaller piece or two, but you're mostly shoulder-scumming between wider sections with helpful face holds.

I'd highly recommend traversing left to the anchor for Goddess of Virtue instead of romping up the wedged blocks at the top.


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Klinger Spring : (7) Gods and Monsters Wall : Goddess of Virtue (5.11a)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: Closer to 60' and 10 bolts (including anchors). Very soft for the grade, but incredibly fun! The start is burly but juggy, and the first bolt isn't terribly high.


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Klinger Spring : (7) Gods and Monsters Wall : In Godzilla We Trust (5.10)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: I didn't encounter a loose hold on the route, but I did hear a "clunk" when I mounted the lizard head. Seems there is a loose but wedged plate on the top - the head itself is not loose.

It's pretty tough to protect the roof move adequately. I ended up using a large nut actually. However, the hand jams are bomber, the feet are there, and then you're pulling on jugs. Not a 5.10 even if you've only ever climbed at Planet Granite.


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