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Member Since: Aug 15, 2010
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Nate Ball
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Point Rank: # 44
Total Points: 8,011

34 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 2576 | Routes 354 | Areas 77 | Photos 692 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 315 | Posts 117 | Stars 694 | Ratings 325
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Jill's Thrill (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: 4 hours ago

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Comments: You could link pitches 1&2 together, but communication will be very difficult.


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Fear of Flying (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Rapped down the 2nd pitch after doing Jill's Thrill. The thin seam was filled with grass and even little trees. It also appeared mostly unprotectable, with a single rusty pin right off a ledge. Possibly good, stemmy climbing if you can dig out some tiny placements (or possibly put in some bolts?).

When belaying for the first pitch, which is basically a direct continuation of Little Wing, you'll probably want to build a gear anchor. If linking these two pitches (recomme... more >>


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Free For All, Direct (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: 4 days ago

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Comments: A 70m or two ropes is required to get off the route in a single rap. Otherwise you can rappel to the intermediate anchor of Free For Some and transition from a hanging position (not recommended). If there are climbers on the second pitch of Dod's Jam then set a gear belay slightly lower or, if not continuing higher, move left to the Free For Some top anchor.


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Free for All (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: 4 days ago

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Comments: A 70m or two ropes is required to get off the route in a single rap. Otherwise you can rappel to the intermediate anchor of Free For Some and transition from a hanging position (not recommended). If there are climbers on the second pitch of Dod's Jam then set a gear belay slightly lower or, if not continuing higher, move left to the Free For Some top anchor.


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : Warbonnet Peak : SE Face (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Cool.


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : Warbonnet Peak : SE Face (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Something I didn't get from this post or from SummitPost is that the route is not on the south face or even the southeast aspect of the peak. Rather, it is on the east side of the mountain, nearly at the top of the pass, and is oriented only slightly south-eastward. It is a hell of a slog up from Lower Bead Lake, another 500' above the lowest solid rock on the south side.

As of mid-July 2017, after a heavy snow year, the base of the route appeared to be completely covered in snow. The r... more >>


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Klinger Spring : (7) Gods and Monsters Wall : Nosferatu (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: #4 might be nice at the top, but the wider-than-fists section is brief and easier. Fantastically continuous route with rests when you need them.


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Klinger Spring : (7) Gods and Monsters Wall : Power Child (5.10+)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: Pumpy indeed. If doing it as one pitch, rope weight will be a factor when pulling the upper crux. Mostly easier climbing except for the start and a couple moves up high.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 6, 2017

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Comments: Please make this more prominent on the page.



Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Klinger Spring : (7) Gods and Monsters Wall : Oroboros (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: Awkward start up questionable chunks and moss. After you step left under the roof, definitely try to stick with the right crack. Easy crack climbing up to the anchor which is hidden around the corner, requiring a precarious step.


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Klinger Spring : (7) Gods and Monsters Wall : Primal Institution (5.10b/c)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: I actually thought this route was harder than Goddess of Virtue. Two very tricky sequences to onsight.


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Klinger Spring : (7) Gods and Monsters Wall : Yeti's Betty (5.7+)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: Grading at this place is so weird. This was the one route that I didn't feel was super-soft. Long, fun, a little thought required to find good gear, and some face holds to keep things interesting. We stopped at the Primal Institution anchor. This was already about 100' and definitely liked having doubles of mid sizes.


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Klinger Spring : (7) Gods and Monsters Wall : Monster Crack (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: Lots of looseness and moss down low. At least one #4 is essential, and a #5 would be useful too. I wiggled in a few cams from #1-#3 with a smaller piece or two, but you're mostly shoulder-scumming between wider sections with helpful face holds.

I'd highly recommend traversing left to the anchor for Goddess of Virtue instead of romping up the wedged blocks at the top.


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Klinger Spring : (7) Gods and Monsters Wall : Goddess of Virtue (5.11a)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: Closer to 60' and 10 bolts (including anchors). Very soft for the grade, but incredibly fun! The start is burly but juggy, and the first bolt isn't terribly high.


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Klinger Spring : (7) Gods and Monsters Wall : In Godzilla We Trust (5.10)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: I didn't encounter a loose hold on the route, but I did hear a "clunk" when I mounted the lizard head. Seems there is a loose but wedged plate on the top - the head itself is not loose.

It's pretty tough to protect the roof move adequately. I ended up using a large nut actually. However, the hand jams are bomber, the feet are there, and then you're pulling on jugs. Not a 5.10 even if you've only ever climbed at Planet Granite.


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Klinger Spring : (7) Gods and Monsters Wall : Belly of the Beast (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: Locking hand jams with feet whenever you need them. Bring doubles from #1-#3.


Location: Washington : Northwest Region : Twin Sisters Range : North Twin : West Ridge (4th)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 3, 2017

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Comments: We attempted it 7/2/17. Roughly 12 miles and lots of vertical to base of the ridge and back. Utterly useless descriptions in the Beckey guide.

Two things are required to make this an enjoyable one-day experience. First, a mountain bike. You can ride it most of the way up. Second, ice axe and crampons. You will DEFINITELY want to glissade the north slope. This will require that you do it fairly early season. This year, the snow on the north slope was still thick and wide even in early July, but ... more >>


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Coethedral : Main Area : Coe-Priestly (5.10+)
By: Nate Ball When: Jun 25, 2017

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Comments: Friends and I pulled off a bunch of looseness from the first pitch and cleaned the rightward traverse to the first anchor. It will need more again next year, but for now it's a good climb. I led it onsight and thought it a slightly spicy 5.10a. We didn't really know what we were doing, plus it was coming into the scorching sun, so will have to come back for the second pitch...


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte : (9) Toothpick Wall : Power Surge (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: May 31, 2017

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Comments: Gave it a good brushing today. Quality climb with interesting face crux. Definitely not safe to lead.


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte : (9) Toothpick Wall : Vertical Therapy (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: May 31, 2017

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Comments: Very sketchy lead.


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte : (2) Silver Bullet Bluff : Jack of Heart (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: May 31, 2017

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Comments: Awesome fun thin lead, relative to the area. Bring lots of small cams and offset nuts.


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte : (3) Video Bluff
By: Nate Ball When: May 23, 2017

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Comments: Very dirty in early season, needs some serious brushing. Lots of dry-tooling scars. Top anchors are very corroded and of questionable integrity. Feet are usually very polished.


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte : (3) Video Bluff : Bikini (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: May 23, 2017

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Comments: Bolt placements are awful. The "line" is more of an Arabic symbol. Not a recommended lead.


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : Coethedral
By: Nate Ball When: May 21, 2017

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Comments: The climbing season for this area begins in early June in a low snow year. This year has not been that.

Today, we drove up the very rough road until we were stopped by a significant landslide at around 7 miles in. We got out and walked, passing several lesser slides on our way, until we encountered impassably deep snow probably a mile from the trail. Decided it was best we got headed back. Hopefully a logging crew comes out and clears it soon, otherwise the hike will likely turn people off from... more >>


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Sheer Stress (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: May 20, 2017

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Comments: The 2nd pitch can be strung together as a single long pitch if starting with Sheer Energy and slinging the last bolt as you move right. This is highly recommended. Gear to 4".


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