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Rock Climbing Photo: Me climbing in La Jolla.


Member Since: Apr 2, 2006
Last Visit: Aug 26, 2016
Contact mschlocker

Point Rank: # 168
Total Points: 3,382
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
132 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has mschlocker been climbing?










Contributions


All 1534 | Routes 118 | Areas 37 | Photos 294 | Page Improvements | Comments 165 | Posts 161 | Stars 531 | Ratings 228
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Gear Review - Black Diamond...
By: mschlocker When: Oct 23, 2006

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Comments: This device is my first autoblock belay device. Previously I employed the Munter hitch on multi pitch routes. The munter hitch, although many say it is too old school works very well and you can easily lower somebody. It is also very light. I was sold on the ATC guide however, when I saw how easy it is to set up a ratcheding pulley with one (not sure I will use this but it is cool). It is also cool that you can belay two seconds simultaneously and one can fall while the other climbs safely.... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Great Race (5.10a)
By: mschlocker When: Oct 16, 2006

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Comments: This route was pretty fun. The first clip is in a good spot - for a climb that does not start on top of a ledge. If you feel uncomfortable throw a cam in at your feet so you do not slide off the ledge should you miss the first clip. If your belayer is up there with you, a tree anchor may suffice to make you both feel safe.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Orangahang (5.7+)
By: mschlocker When: Oct 16, 2006

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Comments: Even though this route goes through a slight overhang, nice hand and foot holds make for a route that people of all experience levels can enjoy. Can set up a TR by heading up the gully to the left of the climb - bolts for TR.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : Gait of Power (5.10a/b)
By: mschlocker When: Oct 9, 2006

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Comments: It wouldn't take an act of god to make this route longer. A bolt or two more continuing straight up the face would do the trick. I set up a TR so I could continue straight up for an equal length of additional and equally challenging face climbing.

Maybe I am a wus, but the bolt on this climb seems a little high to me. If uncomfortable about hurting your feet, bring a crash pad or stick clip. I was lucky to rap from somebody's rope above but you can walk off right. A bit tricky so look at i... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Sunday Afternoon Boulder : East Flake (5.8)
By: mschlocker When: Sep 22, 2006

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Comments: There are bolts for an anchor. For entertainment value, climb the short face which the bolts reside on top of to finish off the climb.


Location: CA : San Diego County : South San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Left Wall : Triton Tower (5.11a)
By: mschlocker When: Sep 4, 2006

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Comments: Traverse pitch (2) is very memorable. No difference leading or following this one, except you get to watch somebody else do it first when following. The tightest bolted pitch at the wall yet still the scariest I have been on. I guess my worry was how I would get back on the climb if I fell. Pitch 2 sets this route apart from all other routes at the wall, and is worth your while.


Location: CA : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Lunch Rock
By: mschlocker When: Aug 11, 2006

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Comments: Lunch rock also means that climbers leave their TRs up while they eat lunch. One time I asked a climber if I could lead up next to his abandoned TR. He said no. I should have pulled it. This is a very popular area, please have respect by climbing the routes and cleaning your gear in a timely manner so others can enjoy the climbs as well. If a climb in this area is on your tick list, get here early or wait.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side : The Jam Crack (5.8)
By: mschlocker When: Jul 7, 2006

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Comments: One 60m rope will get you to the ground from the top of P1.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side : Dave's Deviation (5.9)
By: mschlocker When: Jul 7, 2006

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Comments: The start of this route can be identified by a small tree/bush growing out of the crack midway up the first pitch. The original start is from the left, starting up The Jam Crack. A 5.10c direct start leads up from the right which passes a small roof and then a bolt and hits the crack below the tree.

One 60m rope will get you back to the ground from the top of P1.


Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Summit Area : Crucible (5.10b/c)
By: mschlocker When: Jun 27, 2006

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Comments: I think having an arm cast on would definitely downgrade this climb to 5.10b if not 5.9. It would really give the unfair advantage of extra armor and you could jam it in all sorts of new and creative ways.


Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Summit Area : Crucible (5.10b/c)
By: mschlocker When: May 21, 2006

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Comments: This climb has taught me an important lesson. Wear socks, long pants, a short sleeve shirt AND a long sleeve shirt, as well as a helmet and tape gloves. With all of this on I was still bleeding when I finished. Very strenuous past the first half, but just keep inchworming and stick with it!


Location: CA : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Black Rider (5.11b)
By: mschlocker When: Apr 30, 2006

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Comments: Seemed impossible at first. Once the sequence is figured out this climb goes solid, I swear it. Try going straight up the orange rock as opposed to from the left as the climber in the photo for a more direct line. Very fun climb but tough to figure out.
EDIT - I just upped my stars for this climb. Every move requires thought and many are equally difficult. Rock is solid albeit slippery. One of my favorites at Mission Gorge.


Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Cave Area : Digit's Delight (5.10d)
By: mschlocker When: Apr 29, 2006

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Comments: There are bolts for the TR so no need to bring any fancy gear if that's the plan.


Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Poison Oak Boulder Area : Hamburger Crack (5.9+ V0)
By: mschlocker When: Apr 29, 2006

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Comments: Bring gloves if you even plan on LOOKING at this thing. Very "meaty" as stated above.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Overseer (5.9)
By: mschlocker When: Apr 10, 2006

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Comments: The bottom half of the climb up past the flakes is a little runout, but easier than 5.9. Consider slinging the first hollow flake. I did and felt it was much safer than using nuts. Climb protects very well at the crux with the aforementioned .75; bring more than one.


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