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Member Since: Mar 13, 2006
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 201
Total Points: 2,664

318 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Monty been climbing?


All 3528 | Routes 74 | Areas 15 | Photos 420 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 461 | Posts 971 | Stars 1245 | Ratings 339
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Contributed Comments


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Handicapable (5.12b)
By: Monty When: Oct 25, 2015

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Comments: Hi Derek, I'm glad you guys liked this little number. We originally left 2 quicklinks and 2 biners on both of these routes figuring that people would leave them be, but it sounds like someone thought those biners were booty... lame! Those stainless studs have a tendency to loosen up over time. I'll try to get over there with a torque wrench soon.

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Ddong Chim! (5.11b)
By: Monty When: Oct 1, 2015

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Comments: Third bolt appeared fine last night. We torqued it, and the rest of the route with a torque wrench to ensure they don't loosen up again.

Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : Hobo Jungle : Lucky Streak (5.11+)
By: Monty When: Sep 19, 2015

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Comments: It's a bigger initial investment, but it's pretty hard to argue against the steel Climb Tec carabiners with pin. Maybe a GNAR fundraiser?

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Low Wire : The Grizz (5.13b)
By: Monty When: Sep 17, 2015

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Comments: This route is a great exercise in burliness and a fine sparring partner!

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : Fallen Angel (5.11+)
By: Monty When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: Like Mike said, this is a great route! I thought the original gear beta was spot on, though I do recommend back cleaning some gear at the start of the first pitch (anything smaller than 0.75). Thanks for the route, Josh^2!

Location: Europe : Switzerland : Gastlosen
By: Monty When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: The NW side of the range boast many high quality sport routes (both single and multi-pitch) that serve as a great retreat from the heat in the summer time. Get an early start and climb in the shade until 2pm. More info is found in the Extrem West guide.

Location: Europe : Switzerland : Wendenstöcke
By: Monty When: Aug 7, 2015

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Comments: Words and pictures do not do these walls justice. Truly spectacular and one of the most amazing places I've ever climbed.

Location: Colorado : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : Belligerent Bachelor (5.12)
By: Monty When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: We added 2 bolts to the seam and sent the finish on gear this past weekend during my bachelor party. I snagged the FA after a long night of debauchery. Needless to say I'd love to name it the "Belligerent Bachelor - 5.12."

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Roll Over Rover (5.11b/c)
By: Monty When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: Great pitch and one of my new favorites in Eldo. With some new hardware and a lower 2nd and 3rd clip, this route would be a lot more friendly. Getting to the first bolt felt PG-13 to me.

Location: Mike McHugh : Stuff : Photo
By: Monty When: Apr 28, 2015

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Comments: That's some excellent work there Mike! Couldn't ask for better stone to work with eh?

Location: North Carolina : Photo
By: Monty When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Such an incredible photo. Really makes me miss NC!

Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Little Dude : Big Lebowsky (5.13b)
By: Monty When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: No offense, Mark, but could it be that you're getting a bit soft with your grading? Tigers Woody, Buster Brown, Double Dominatrix, and Deep Water Horizon are all great routes, but much easier than advertised....

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Ninja Bedwetter (5.11+)
By: Monty When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Such a rad climb! The face climbing down low is unprotected (don't even think about putting pro behind that block!) but casual.
For a comfy rack bring:
(4x) blue metolius
(4x) BD .4,
(2x) red alien/orange metolius,
(4x) BD .5,
(7x) BD .75
(4x) BD #1
(1x) BD# 2 & 3
optional #4 in pod after loose face climbing.

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Sucking My Will to Live (5.12c)
By: Monty When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: RIP, giant death flake! Hope you guys weren't around when it went. I always started from the left because I was terrified of that thing. I wonder how this affects Grim Aura (not that I have any business on that route).

Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Glue Slippage (5.12b)
By: Monty When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: It is baffling to me that this was the "first sport route" at Shelf...

Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : La Vieja : Sudafricana (5.10b)
By: Monty When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: Great route! It's possible to link p1 and 2 easily with minimal rope drag. A #5 is not necessary but a #4 is nice to have.

Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : Torre Principal : Sinestro Total (5.10+)
By: Monty When: Jan 10, 2015

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Comments: I thought the traditional 2nd pitch (right dihedral) felt way sandbagged at 6a+ (5.10) and was the crux of the route. Felt 5.11 to me...

Approach beta:
1. We climbed the route on Christmas Day and encountered a good ammount of snow rapping down the gully beneath Chocolate Liquido. With a 70m it took 3 raps, 2 of which required leaving some slings or nuts. Not a big deal but worth bringing extra gear for this if your there early season. The advantage of this approach is you can rap righ... more >>

Location: Colorado : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : G Storm (5.12c)
By: Monty When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: Nice send, this is a great, pumpy link-up. I believe Jason Haas got the FA of this link-up in the fall of 2012 after adding one lone bolt in order to link the two lines together. He dubbed it "The Stormy G."

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sheeprock : Land that Time Forgot : Cloak of the Wolf (5.12+)
By: Monty When: Oct 19, 2014

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Comments: My buddy Cody and I managed a team send of the Cloak today (FFA?). He styled the roofs pitch (HARD!), and I managed to onsight the headwall. I gotta say that headwall pitch has got to be one of the best face pitches in the Platte, unbelievable feature! Thanks for all of your time and effort on this thing, Darren, it is truly a special route!

A few notes on the route:
It is possible to get off with a single 70m (we did), the only pitch that involves any extendo rappel... more >>

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Brennivin (5.12c/d)
By: Monty When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Matt and Pete! This a great line that I never cared to repeat due to the deteriorating pin, but now I have no excuse!

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Playin' Hooky (5.8) : Photo
By: Monty When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: I'm glad you guys had fun up there, but you really need to learn some better anchor practices. In this picture, there is a follower who was incorrectly being belayed in "guide mode" off of a single piece of protection. The brake side of the device is not tied off, nor is there a hand on the brake. If he leaned back, he would fall 200ft, and that's only if you were still tied into the rope. At this point, the entire fall would be on ONE bolt.

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Tickle My Blossom (5.11 R)
By: Monty When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: Doze, you must have gotten on Ddong Chim which starts in the same pockets as Tickle my Blossom but then follows bolts to the right. TmB travels slightly left after the pockets and pulls a roof.

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: Monty When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: Helen, you must have linked the first 2 pitches which is easily done. That would make your "2nd pitch" the 3rd pitch as listed in the description :)

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: Monty When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: This is an excellent rock climb, thanks so much for putting it in! We found the grades to be about right on, though the crux pitch is very thin and would be harder for fat fingers. I attempted to free the A0 (not sure how if pulling on bolts is C0 or A0), but I gave up about halfway. I definitely think that it is possible, but it will certainly require some patience.

We rapped the route with 2 70m ropes, but next time I'll just bring one. All the raps would be fine except the last rap to ... more >>

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.12b/c)
By: Monty When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: Now that the footsy block has been removed from the lower anchor (THANKS GUYS!), a decent stance can be made by placing a 0.4 size piece in the crack to the left of the anchor and clipping in short. Thanks again to everyone who has helped rebolt, dremmel, and trundle, this is an awesome rock climb!

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