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Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the steep 7b crux of Süpervitamin.


Member Since: Mar 13, 2006
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
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Monty
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Point Rank: # 160
Total Points: 3,508
Last Year: 252
Last 30 Days: 0
294 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 3483 | Routes 74 | Areas 15 | Photos 417 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 449 | Posts 962 | Stars 1230 | Ratings 333
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Sheer Lunacy (Free) (5.12b)
By: Monty When: Mar 21, 2016

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Comments: Awesome route with great varried climbing.
A few comments:
- The rack beta mentioned here is spot on. We were happy to have tripples from purple - orange metolius as well as offset nuts. We brought the #4, but can see why others don't.
- Save a #1 camalot for after the traverse on the crux pitch, you'll be happy you did!
- The tree at the top is nothing more than a sawed off stump now, so lunge on!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Doub-Griffith (5.11c)
By: Monty When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: Just when I didn't think this route could get any better, someone goes and does something awesome like bolting the airy direct finish! Thanks for the fine addition, boys!


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Photo
By: Monty When: Jan 26, 2016

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Comments: Hi Strappo,
We will be there Saturday only this weekend. Would love to meet up at Zookas still! Send me a Personal Message through the site, and we can make plans.

-Dave


Location: CO : Golden/Denver Climbing Comm...
By: Monty When: Jan 26, 2016

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Comments: Forum Post Here


Location: Monomaniac : Banana Stand Mini Guide : Photo
By: Monty When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: Best crag theme ever! Thanks for all of your work. I'd love to get the tour of some of the other crags too!


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Photo
By: Monty When: Jan 8, 2016

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Comments: Hey Strappo! My buddy, Cody, and I finished bolting the route last fall (on lead of course). We more or less used the same approach you guys did, but instead of climbing to the belay of Wunch's, we found you could just stay left and follow some flakes after climbing Breashears. Thanks for the initial vision, you guys planted the seed for an amazing line. It has been a hell of a lot of work to push the line to the top, but the climbing is unreal. Crimps forever!

It's still currently a project,... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+) : Photo
By: Monty When: Dec 30, 2015

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Comments: I have an annotated version with of this topo with the splitter variation drawn in, as well as some gear and water beta. PM me if you are interested. Thanks, Jason, for the original topo, it was super helpful!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Pretty Woman (5.10a)
By: Monty When: Dec 5, 2015

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Comments: I replaced the coldshuts at the anchor with stainless hangers and rings. Not sure why coldshuts are still being used on modern routes. Thanks to the BCC for the anchor chains, please think about donating at boulderclimbers.org/support/do...


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hot Stuff (5.10)
By: Monty When: Dec 5, 2015

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Comments: My wife Lisa and I replaced all of the bolts (except the low first bolt that does nothing) with 1/2" stainless steel Power bolts. The majority of the holes were reused.

Rock Climbing Photo: Old bolts vs. new 1/2" stainless.  Original h...
Old bolts vs. new 1/2" stainless. Original hardware was placed in 1996....


Rock Climbing Photo: The sleeve is completely rusted to the inner bolt....
The sleeve is completely rusted to the inner bolt. Hard to imagine the cone being engaged in this scenario.



Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Photo
By: Monty When: Nov 5, 2015

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Comments: My favorite view of the pinnacle!


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : The Rodeo (5.12+)
By: Monty When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Ha! Of course I did, Glenn.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : The Rodeo (5.12+)
By: Monty When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: Anyone have a story as to why there is a key tied to the anchor? Pretty random, haha.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : Game of Drones (5.12d)
By: Monty When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: Great stone with a hard, sustained crux. Felt leagues harder than The Shadow or The Penetrators.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Handicapable (5.12b)
By: Monty When: Oct 25, 2015

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Comments: Hi Derek, I'm glad you guys liked this little number. We originally left 2 quicklinks and 2 biners on both of these routes figuring that people would leave them be, but it sounds like someone thought those biners were booty... lame! Those stainless studs have a tendency to loosen up over time. I'll try to get over there with a torque wrench soon.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Ddong Chim! (5.11b)
By: Monty When: Oct 1, 2015

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Comments: Third bolt appeared fine last night. We torqued it, and the rest of the route with a torque wrench to ensure they don't loosen up again.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : Hobo Jungle : Lucky Streak (5.11c)
By: Monty When: Sep 19, 2015

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Comments: It's a bigger initial investment, but it's pretty hard to argue against the steel Climb Tec carabiners with pin. Maybe a GNAR fundraiser?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Low Wire : The Grizz (5.13b)
By: Monty When: Sep 17, 2015

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Comments: This route is a great exercise in burliness and a fine sparring partner!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : Fallen Angel (5.11+)
By: Monty When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: Like Mike said, this is a great route! I thought the original gear beta was spot on, though I do recommend back cleaning some gear at the start of the first pitch (anything smaller than 0.75). Thanks for the route, Josh^2!


Location: Europe : Switzerland : Gastlosen
By: Monty When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: The NW side of the range boast many high quality sport routes (both single and multi-pitch) that serve as a great retreat from the heat in the summer time. Get an early start and climb in the shade until 2pm. More info is found in the Extrem West guide.


Location: Europe : Switzerland : Wendenstöcke
By: Monty When: Aug 7, 2015

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Comments: Words and pictures do not do these walls justice. Truly spectacular and one of the most amazing places I've ever climbed.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : Belligerent Bachelor (5.12)
By: Monty When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: We added 2 bolts to the seam and sent the finish on gear this past weekend during my bachelor party. I snagged the FA after a long night of debauchery. Needless to say I'd love to name it the "Belligerent Bachelor - 5.12."


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Roll Over Rover (5.11b/c)
By: Monty When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: Great pitch and one of my new favorites in Eldo. With some new hardware and a lower 2nd and 3rd clip, this route would be a lot more friendly. Getting to the first bolt felt PG-13 to me.


Location: Mike McHugh : Stuff : Photo
By: Monty When: Apr 28, 2015

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Comments: That's some excellent work there Mike! Couldn't ask for better stone to work with eh?


Location: NC : Photo
By: Monty When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Such an incredible photo. Really makes me miss NC!


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Little Dude : Big Lebowsky (5.13b)
By: Monty When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: No offense, Mark, but could it be that you're getting a bit soft with your grading? Tigers Woody, Buster Brown, Double Dominatrix, and Deep Water Horizon are all great routes, but much easier than advertised....


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