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Member Since: Mar 13, 2006
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Monty
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Point Rank: # 189
Total Points: 3,099

330 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 3553 | Routes 75 | Areas 15 | Approach Trails | Photos 423 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 466 | Posts 974 | Stars 1256 | Ratings 341
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Black and Tan (5.11a)
By: Monty When: 6 days ago

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Comments: With regards to the stick clip beta: if you don't feel comfortable getting to the first bolt, you can place a bomber #0.4 Camalot while standing on the boulder to protect the moves getting to the bolt. Otherwise, there are plenty of sticks around to fashion a stick clip out of.


Location: Colorado : Empire : Ra : Windows On the World (5.12b)
By: Monty When: Aug 21, 2017

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Comments: Great route! I thought the sequence between bolts 2-3 on pitch 4 were really fun and technical. In it's current state, P4 feels 12b-ish. Well worth the effort.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Solar Ridge (5.8)
By: Monty When: Aug 19, 2017

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Comments: Sarah, from that anchor atop P1, you can make a short rap straight down to the anchor for the Babe With The Power. From there, it's a 35m rap to the ground. Glad you guys got down okay.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Cave of Eternal Stench (5.9-)
By: Monty When: Jul 15, 2017

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Comments: All three climbs share the same anchor. It's been a while since I've climbed this route, but there shouldn't be any large run-outs.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Dungeon : Tanuki (5.13-)
By: Monty When: Jun 29, 2017

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Comments: It's possible to get a TR on this route with some minor shenanigans after climbing the Backdoor Man. I forgot how painful some of the jams are on this thing!


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Dungeon : Zed's Dead (5.12+)
By: Monty When: Jun 29, 2017

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Comments: You no longer need a number 4 for this route, which means this route is much safer now too.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Dungeon : If and Only If (5.13-)
By: Monty When: Jun 23, 2017

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Comments: I'm guessing the grade will settle around 13b, but the pumpy nature of the climbing makes it hard to grade. I was able to do all of the moves on the first day, but it took a long time for me build up the fitness necessary to put it all together.


Location: Colorado : Idaho Springs : Waderland (submitted as Swi...
By: Monty When: Jun 15, 2017

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Comments: That's great! It's be nice if you posted them.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Dungeon
By: Monty When: Jun 4, 2017

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Comments: If it's only a light rain, most off the routes stay dry. However, if it's a full on downpour, the only route that stays dry is Tanuki.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Bombardier Dome : Da Vinci's Robot (5.8)
By: Monty When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: Really great climbing on this one! If you want to top out, bring a small rack, and build an anchor on top of the formation.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Marmot Tower : The Book of Marmot (5.9+)
By: Monty When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: Great name for a fun route!


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Medicine Man (5.12a)
By: Monty When: May 2, 2017

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Comments: It's only 5.11 for those with "Trump hands." ;)


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Dungeon : Branching Out (5.12d)
By: Monty When: Mar 27, 2017

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Comments: Hey Shaun, the red tag is on a route 3 routes to the left of this route. It still needs to be cleaned, so please stay off of it for a bit. Branching out is the second route from the right on the lowest part of the cave.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Dungeon : Two in the Pink (5.12)
By: Monty When: Mar 26, 2017

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Comments: Great work, guys! I knew someone would knockout that direct start sooner than later.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Red Devil : Hell in a Bucket (5.11-)
By: Monty When: Mar 22, 2017

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Comments: Super fun climbing on some really neat features. Thanks for the fine addition!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Iron Pony (5.11d)
By: Monty When: Mar 4, 2017

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Comments: Hardest 11d in Eldo! Hanging a double draw on the third bolt allows you to clip before committing to the crux moves. Highly recommend!


Location: Colorado : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Squirming Coil Area : The Slapper (V5-6)
By: Monty When: Feb 23, 2017

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Comments: Huge thanks to the Front Range Climbing Stewards for their beautiful trail work at the Dark Side. This problem now has a perfect flat landing!


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Labor Day (5.10+)
By: Monty When: Feb 4, 2017

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Comments: Thanks, Chuck and Adam! I originally envisioned Fool's Gold starting on this panel of rock, but I never made it back to bolt this route. Thanks for the addition!


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Rubber Ducky (5.10a)
By: Monty When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: I upgraded the old anchor at the top of the great chimney today with hardware from the BCC. Consider donating to the BCC.

Also, it is possible (and quite fun!) to climb this route without touching the offwidth. Start a few feet left of the traditional start following cracks and seams to a ledge with a bush, then step right on to the chock stone at the end of the OW. This variation is still in the 10a range, but some of the c... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Don't mess with my Thing (5.12-)
By: Monty When: Dec 31, 2016

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Comments: This is a phenomenal slab pitch! Don't over complicate the upper roof or face the heartbreaker that I did.


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Legend on the Fall (5.12b)
By: Monty When: Dec 27, 2016

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Comments: I swapped out the thin chain for quicklinks today. Such a fun route!


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Photo
By: Monty When: Oct 25, 2016

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Comments: A much more direct line can be taken than what is shown in this picture that is still in the 5.7 range. Where the line jogs hard left, instead climb straight up the obvious crack. At the top, instead of climbing the face, climb the splitter hand crack bulge (best part of the route!).


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : The Heap : Country Western Swing aka M... (5.11+)
By: Monty When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: The bolts on this are okay, but an upgrade would certainly be nice. It would be great if someone lowered the anchor about 4 feet though. The currently location ensures rope shredding unless you bring two 48" slings with you. Fun route, and a great way to get a rope on "Call me Barney."


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Gate Sector : Devil's Gate : Deviled Eggs (5.12c)
By: Monty When: Oct 9, 2016

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Comments: Funny, Leeanne, I found this route to be harder than Dammit Samet.... Regardless of grades, they are both fantastic! Thanks for the great addition, Matt.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Alligator Lounge : Altered State (5.10+)
By: Monty When: Sep 25, 2016

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Comments: If you're not comfortable with the moves getting to the first bolt, you can easily hang a 48 inch sling off of it on your way down from warming up on "Let's do it again Daddy." We tried that this weekend, and it seemed like a pretty good compromise to me :)


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