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Rock Climbing Photo: Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo: Adam Sanders.


Member Since: Oct 26, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Monomaniac
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Point Rank: # 13
Total Points: 17,844
Last Year: 520
Last 30 Days: 111
721 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 5744 | Routes 581 | Areas 144 | Photos 1877 | Page Improvements | Comments 483 | Posts 1736 | Stars 863 | Ratings 60
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Bottom Feeder (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 26, 2010

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Comments: Ha! Nice catch Jay!


Location: Monty : Random : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 20, 2010

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Comments: Sweeet!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Smoldering Horse Flesh (5.12a)
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: Great story, Darryl! I knew there had to be a good story behind a name like that.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 15, 2010

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Comments: Many thanks to Chip for getting this page started! If anybody has ideas on how to better organize the boulders on this page, please contact myself or Chip.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Alligator Lounge : ... : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 7, 2010

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Comments: I think this photo is really old, and those trees are no more.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cash Wall : Guns in the Vault (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 3, 2010

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Comments: This is a really worthwhile route, which climbs a lot longer than it looks. There are some dirty holds near the start, but the rock at the top is excellent. I thought the crux was similar in difficulty to the crux of Cure (~V6). Great addition!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cash Wall : Cash in the Vault (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 3, 2010

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Comments: This has some great rock & cool moves, but it's ridiculously contrived even by Shelf standards. Curious to know why they didn't just put the bolts in the middle of the face. I suppose they wanted the crack in the right face to be on, but the dihedral crack & left wall to be off. Kinda hard to lieback a crack when you can't flag, because there's an enormous wall in your way, which, by the way, you can't touch because it's "off". Anyway, it's a great route if you have a pair of Shelf Road Blin... more >>


Location: WY : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Endeavor to Persevere (5.13c)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 30, 2010

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Comments: Gets my vote as the best hard sport route in the Lander area. Has a bit of everything and requires a number of diverse abilities to send.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (f) Cocaine Gully : Bongo Fury (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 15, 2010

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Comments: "Frizmo" has something to do with Jeff Frizzel. I've heard that something broke on this a few years ago and it might be 13b now?


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") (5.13d)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 8, 2010

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Comments: Many thanks to whomever had the vision to equip this line! And thanks to Ben, Josh, and Kate for the belays & moral support.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Baby Blue (5.11a)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 7, 2010

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Comments: lol!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cash Wall : Guns in the Vault (5.13a)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 7, 2010

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Comments: This thing looks really cool, nice work, Nathan!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Manly Bulges (5.13c/d)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 5, 2010

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Comments: Ben & I were able to get the new bolt in today. Thanks, Ben, for the belay and the use of your drill!


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Subatomic Fingerlock (close... (5.10a)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 3, 2010

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Comments: There are archeological sites at the base of the cliff.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Manly Bulges (5.13c/d) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 1, 2010

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Comments: You don't use duct tape to hold your draws up?


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Manly Bulges (5.13c/d)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 27, 2010

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Comments: Ok, I emailed Ryan Lewis & Ian Spencer-Green, and they both approve the addition of a bolt at the start. If there are any objections, speak up.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Two Hearts (5.11b/c)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 27, 2010

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Comments: Ben's Dad? If so, I think it's spelled Schmitt.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : The Thing (5.13-)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 27, 2010

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Comments: Here's how I did it back in the day:



I thought it was low 13b with my sequence.

Looking at your video (DTP), it certainly doesn't look like you're off route.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Manly Bulges (5.13c/d)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 27, 2010

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Comments: I can add a bolt if nobody objects. I thought about doing it, but I thought I should send it first in its current state. It can be made safe the way it is, but it's kinda ridiculous for a route like this, at Cactus Cliff of all places, to have too few bolts. I lead it ground up my 2nd burn, and it was mildly terrifying making the last few moves to the first bolt. You could definitely fall there, and a fall would definitely put you in the hospital (or worse).


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Manly Bulges (5.13c/d)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 25, 2010

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Comments: Sent this yesterday. IMO, this is slightly easier than Green Bonus. I agree that this is sharp as hell, particularly the two-finger dish at the crux bulge, and the bolting could be improved. The crux bolt should probably be moved down & left ~12", and there really needs to be another bolt at the start. Until then, it's possible to scramble up to the ledge and pass a stick clip up to pre-clip. Or climb Totally Blonde and lower down this.

I really think this is a quality route, despite the a... more >>


Location: Blitzo : Cactus and other desert pla... : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 22, 2010

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Comments: Secratary of the Interior, Not Sure? He talks like a f**


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (e) Western Ship - River Fa... : Solar (5.9)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 21, 2010

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Comments: I think its the first pitch traverse from the bottom of Toxic around the corner. Its not too bad but there is the potential for a pendulum. I recall the rest of the route has bomber gear.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Green Bonus (5.13+)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 19, 2010

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Comments: There were no signs on Monday. Or a fence, or any other indication that it was private property.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Green Bonus (5.13+)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 17, 2010

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Comments: Ya, it's on private property, but I wouldn't say it's a secret. People from Boulder know where it is. It's just un-documented, and probably best if it retains a low profile.

Peter, that's really interesting. Damage took me way longer than this. I thought the Damage BP was harder (smaller holds, requiring more precision to stick the dynos, and twice as long - 8 moves vs. 4), and it comes at the end. Granted there is a good rest, but I always found it hard to rest there because it was always... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Green Bonus (5.13+)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 16, 2010

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Comments: This is really a great route, if you don't mind the no-hands. I don't have any complaints about the rock--its better than the rock on the average Cactus route. Definitely no harder than 13c, though. I would peg the first BP at ~V8, and the second at V5 or possibly V6 if you include the clip and the resultant pump/tempo disruption (in other words, V5 on TR, V6 if leading and you don't skip the clip). Kinda hard to grade the first BP since pain tolerance is such a big factor. After doing this... more >>


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