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Rock Climbing Photo: Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo: Adam Sanders.


Member Since: Oct 26, 2006
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Monomaniac
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Point Rank: # 13
Total Points: 17,844
Last Year: 520
Last 30 Days: 111
721 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 5744 | Routes 581 | Areas 144 | Photos 1877 | Page Improvements | Comments 483 | Posts 1736 | Stars 863 | Ratings 60
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Aftermath
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 29, 2016

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Comments: These routes were all bolted in December 2015.


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Overlook Cliff : Oh Boy, Oh Boy! (5.12b)
By: Monomaniac When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: This line starts with a reachy, sequential crux through slopey pockets. Things ease considerably above the third bolt, with crumbly jugs and a big detached flake. The redpoint crux is at the end, with devious crimping on small, sloping edges.


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Overlook Cliff
By: Monomaniac When: Jul 26, 2016

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Comments: Folks are awfully stingy with the stars around here! This is an outstanding crag with excellent rock--very uncharacteristic of the Ouray area. IMO, some of the best pocketed limestone in Colorado.

It looked to me like the entire cliff is shady by about noon. There are two sections that face a bit more north and are shady by about 11am. Also, it seemed to me that only out-of-town suckers like myself were gullible enough to approach via the Ouray Overlook--all the locals were following the chossp... more >>


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Overlook Cliff : School's Out! (5.12-)
By: Monomaniac When: Jul 26, 2016

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Comments: A bit chossy at the start, but well worth it to reach the rad headwall. Very gymnastic weaving through the huecos and along the jagged arête. Classic!


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Overlook Cliff : "A View to a Kill" AKA (... (5.12a)
By: Monomaniac When: Jul 26, 2016

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Comments: This is one of the best 12a's in Colorado. Phenomenal pocket climbing and brilliant rock.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Outrageous Overhang : NON (5.12+)
By: Monomaniac When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Sent this guy today. I got the impression from several Pass locals that it was "open", so I hope my send doesn't offend anyone. Thanks to Wade for the vision, hardware, and hard work equipping the line.

If you like technical arete climbing, this is a must-do for the Pass. The climb is a classic power-endurance test, with barely a chance to clip between the ground and the high roof (in fact the third clip is one of the hardest "moves" on the route). The crux is a particularly desperate pinching ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Bunker
By: Monomaniac When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: The West Face grades are a total shot in the dark--take 'em with a grain of salt.

Also, yes, new fixed lines were added in 2014 or '15. Tod Anderson also thought Mike was the man. I PM'd through this site for confirmation but never received a response.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Lou Reed (5.13b)
By: Monomaniac When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: This is a great find--gymnastic moves on good rock in a beautiful setting. Thanks to Richard for the vision and for opening it up. The crux for me was a footless drive-by move to a really good incut edge at the lip of the big bulge--very cool.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag
By: Monomaniac When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: This is a worthy crag that offers some relief from the summer heat. It's only about 15 minutes further from Denver than the west end of Clear Creek, and it's easily 10 degrees cooler than those crags. The left side stays shady till ~10am, and the right side until 1pm. Short approach and beautiful setting. Kudos to Harald and Richard!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Siberian Express (5.14c)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: I sent this on March 6, 2015. Thanks to Scott for the vision and sweat to create this line. If you like pure power endurance, this is the route for you. If my ascent is the first, then I propose the name "Siberian Express". Self indulgent, tedious details can be found here.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Double Stout (5.13b)
By: Monomaniac When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: I sent the full Double Stout on Friday (January 23rd). Details here.

Many thanks to Darren for envisioning the line, equipping it, and opening it up. It's a fantastic addition to Clear Creek, definitely one of the better hard routes in the canyon.


Location: Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Krottenseer Turm : Chasin the Trane (5.12d)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: An old-school grade for an old-school route. This would easily merit .13a at any modern day vacation crag.


Location: Europe : Germany : Frankenjura : Weißenstein : Dampfhammer (5.11+)
By: Monomaniac When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: This could be 12a. I never really figured out the non-linear UIAA-to-YDS conversion. I wanted to give it 11d/12a but the database wouldn't allow that. It's UIAA 8, if you can figure out what that means in YDS, good for you!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : Prowler (5.14a)
By: Monomaniac When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: Fine with me. I believe the draws fixed now belong to Jason Baker, so you might want to run it by him.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : Prowler (5.14a)
By: Monomaniac When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: Many thanks to Jason Baker for discovering and equipping this line. Thanks for graciously sharing it with me, it's destined to become a Clear Creek classic!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : I Don’t Know What It'’s C... (5.14b)
By: Monomaniac When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: Many thanks to Luke Childers for discovering and equipping this line. Thanks, Luke!

Edit to add: details on RCTM.com


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Flight of the Phoenix (5.14a/b)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: In the year or so since I did this, I've had the chance to travel around a bit and try some other routes of similar style and difficulty. Based on those routes, I'm beginning to think this is more like .14b. Time will tell, but for now I've changed the grade here to .14a/b.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Mission Impossible (5.14c) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Jay, and thanks again for bolting it! Probably my 2nd favorite route in Clear Creek, after Mission Overdrive. The heinous sharpness of the upper crux detracts slightly, but otherwise it's a classic line.


Location: AK : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : Stikine Ice Cap : Devil's Thumb : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments:
Benjamin Chapman wrote:
Is Krakauer's name in there somewhere?


Between two registers, we found a name for every ascent we were aware of, except that one.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Scene of the Crime (5.12c/d) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: Surely a crime against fashion! (the mullet, that is. Those shorts are TNT).


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Mission Overdrive (5.14a/b)
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 12, 2013

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Comments: In my view, this is a substantial improvement on Interstellar Overdrive. I don't know what it is about Clear Creek, but the linkups are often better than the "straight up" lines! Anyway, an outstanding route, thanks for the vision and hardware, Jay!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Flight of the Phoenix (5.14a/b)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 27, 2013

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Comments: I put together a short video of the climb. Check it out here.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Flight of the Phoenix (5.14a/b)
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: For me, this is by far the hardest route at Shelf. This took me significantly longer to climb than any other Shelf route. That said, I'm not very good at this type of climbing. Shelf's other .14s suit me much better. I wouldn't be surprised if a strong boulderer found this to be easier than the relatively pumpy Apogee Pending or the highly technical 'Paradise'. I also wouldn't be surprised if future climbers decide this is sandbagged. This is one of those weird routes like Dumpste... more >>


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector D'or et Bleu : Sky Pilot (5.13c/d)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 4, 2012

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Comments: I can't think of a better word than "brilliant" to describe this line. On par with any of the best hard sport routes in America.

Since I'm bored at work, one small nitpick for the sake of preserving history: Although I'm sure there is no official definition, I don't think the cross move qualifies as a 'full on rose move'. "Rose Move" comes from the classic Buoux route "La Rose et Le Vampire". Here is what a Rose Move looks like:

Rock Climbing Photo: THE original "Rose Move"
THE original "Rose Move"


I suppose its possible that a really short... more >>


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : The B.F.G. (5.13)
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: Sounds like a cool line and a worthwhile addition. Pics??


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