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Member Since: Jul 17, 2008
Last Visit: Dec 5, 2017
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Point Rank: # 12,828
Total Points: 30

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 64 | Routes 3 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 4 | Posts 8 | Stars 45 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat)

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b (34)

Trad, 1 pitch

New York > The Gunks > ... > a1. The Uberfall - left

Jun 6, 2010

On Any Monday

5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c (20)

Trad, 1 pitch, 40'

New York > The Gunks > ... > g. V3 - Middle Earth

Jul 18, 2008

Double Clutch

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a (49)

Trad, 1 pitch, 30'

New York > The Gunks > ... > a1. The Uberfall - left

Jul 18, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > a1. The Uberfall - left > Double Clutch (5.9+)
By: monk When: Nov 5, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: That notch over the roof is a cool feature. I don't remember what I used to protect that move, but I don't have a #4 Camalot and I know I had bomber gear. So if you don't have a giant cam, don't worry about it. This climb protects well with a normal rack.

BTW, I've seen this crux done at least three different ways - including throwing, as you say. The crux is height related, but I'm able to reach it (I'm 5'8").


Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > g. V3 - Middle Earth > Dis-Mantel (5.10b)
By: monk When: Nov 5, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: I was conflicted about gear on the last roof. I got a good cam at the lip of the roof but I'm unsure about the rock quality. I warned my belayer to put on a helmet in case I fell and broke the rock.

Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Was I stupid to place the pro there?

BTW, I think Ivan is right that the route is height dependent. I'm 5'8" and I can *just* reach the good hold on the first roof. If I were any shorter I think it would be much harder.


Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > g. V3 - Middle Earth > City Streets (5.10)
By: monk When: Jul 18, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: My guidebook (Swain) has this as 10-. It felt harder than 10-, so I won't quibble with the 10+ rating given here (did a hold break?).

(Warning: gear beta follows).

The crux is protected by a piton - which always makes be nervous. I found a marginal nut placement a couple feet to the right of the pin. I also set a ballnutz in opposition to this nut a couple feet below and to the left. That gave me the confidence to pull through the crux.

The pin looks good, and you pull the crux with the pin ... more >>


Location: New York > The Gunks > The Near Trapps > b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) > Grease Gun Groove (5.6)
By: monk When: Jul 17, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: There's an interesting roof variation to GGG. The variation can be seen from the ground. About 3/4 the way up to the top, to the left of the regular route, you will see a roof with a crack. Traverse over to the roof and pull it at the crack. This variation is not in my (Swain) guidebook. It is well protected and goes at about 8+.

One word of warning. I told a friend about the variation and he warned me about a possible loose block up there. I don't remember any questionable rock.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
FOUND: Gear at the gunks 11/14Lost and FoundmonkNov 15, 2010
re: Gunks This WeekendNorth Eastern States PartnersmonkOct 14, 2010
Gunks This WeekendNorth Eastern States PartnersmonkOct 14, 2010
Gunks This Sat. (9/11)North Eastern States PartnersmonkSep 10, 2010
re: Best books for improving climbing?Training ForummonkJun 22, 2009
re: Farley Ledge Access SituationEastern StatesmonkMay 1, 2009
re: Farley Ledge Access SituationEastern StatesmonkApr 30, 2009
re: Farley Ledge Access SituationEastern StatesmonkApr 29, 2009

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

High Exposure 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

New York > The Gunks > ... > i. High E

Something Interesting 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

New York > The Gunks > ... > e. The Mac Wall (Something ...

P38 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

New York > The Gunks > ... > b. Jackie and friends

Ants' Line 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

New York > The Gunks > ... > i. High E

Bonnie's Roof 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

New York > The Gunks > ... > i. High E

Double Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

New York > The Gunks > ... > j. The Yellow Wall and The ...

City Lights 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

New York > The Gunks > ... > c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Son of Easy O 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

New York > The Gunks > ... > c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Annie Oh! 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

New York > The Gunks > ... > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Nosedive 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

New York > The Gunks > ... > a1. The Uberfall - left

MF 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

New York > The Gunks > ... > e. The Mac Wall (Something ...

Snooky's Return 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

New York > The Gunks > ... > f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

CCK Direct 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

New York > The Gunks > ... > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Modern Times 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

New York > The Gunks > ... > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Frustration Syndrome 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

New York > The Gunks > ... > k. The Slime Wall

Directissima 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

New York > The Gunks > ... > i. High E

Simple Suff 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

New York > The Gunks > ... > k. The Slime Wall

Roseland 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

New York > The Gunks > ... > b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

New York > The Gunks > ... > a1. The Uberfall - left

Pink Laurel 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

New York > The Gunks > ... > b. Jackie and friends

Classic 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

New York > The Gunks > ... > b. Jackie and friends

Horseman 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

New York > The Gunks > ... > a1. The Uberfall - left

Le Teton 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

New York > The Gunks > ... > f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

V-3 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

New York > The Gunks > ... > g. V3 - Middle Earth

Feast of Fools 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

New York > The Gunks > ... > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

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