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Member Since: Jan 29, 2009
Last Visit: 5 mins ago
Contact MojoMonkey

Point Rank: # 5,879
Total Points: 63

1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has MojoMonkey been climbing?










Contributions


All 547 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 27 | Posts 298 | Stars 213 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Wonderama

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a (18)

Sport, 1 pitch, 80'

Pennsylvania : Safe Harbor : ... : f. Autumn Arch Sector

Nov 18, 2011

Groovin'

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a (25)

Sport, 1 pitch, 80'

Pennsylvania : Birdsboro Quarry : 6. Big Wall

Oct 17, 2011

Mr. P's Wurst

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (16)

Trad, 3 pitches, 170'

New York : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

Oct 4, 2011

Gym Dandy

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (28)

Sport, 1 pitch

Pennsylvania : Birdsboro Quarry : 2. Orange Sunshine Wall

Oct 20, 2010

Zorro

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a (28)

Sport

Pennsylvania : Birdsboro Quarry : 4. Zorro Wall

Mar 20, 2009

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Girl with a Blonde Chopper

Girl with a Blonde Chopper

Forums : Climbing Gear Discussion : ... : Post

Nov 9, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Leader is on Wonderama; climber to the right is on...

Leader is on Wonderama; climber to the right is on Locomotion.

Pennsylvania : Safe Harbor : ... : Wonderama (5.12a)

Nov 21, 2011

Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the technical crux of Groovin'

Starting the technical crux of Groovin'

Pennsylvania : Birdsboro Quarry : ... : Groovin' (5.11d)

Oct 17, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York : The Gunks : Peterskill : j. Scrotum Pole/Drive in Ar... : Arete I (5.9 R)
By: MojoMonkey When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: Rapped off the tree growing into the rock just fine (place rope above knot on limb).

As in you rapped directly off of the tree, rope on bark?

And it sounds like your rope was at least secure (you mention placing it over a knot on a limb) but from what I remember (it has been years) the tree growing into/around the rock moves with the wind and a gap can actually open with a strong enough wind.


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bridge Area : The Pinnacle : Afternoon Delight (5.6 R)
By: MojoMonkey When: Jun 8, 2017

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Comments: Fun climb and a great adventure for a newer climber. Nice view sitting on the top. I did it in 2011 and we rapped off with a single rope which I'm pretty sure was a 60m. Think I could see the ground as I lowered it to verify it touched down. If not you could leave a second rope on the ground, rap off on a not-doubled-over single line, tie on the second rope for the person at the top to pull up and set up a double rappel without having to climb with a second rope.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a1. The Uberfall - left : Fancy Idiot (5.6)
By: MojoMonkey When: May 31, 2017

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Comments: Dirty and loose and run-out in spots, but I had fun on it. I wouldn't recommend it if it was near your limit I guess, but I thought it was worth checking out the corner on the second pitch.


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake (main) : Orange Oswald Wall : Hippie Dreams (5.7)
By: MojoMonkey When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: "1.8 miles from the lot off 19 to Hippie Dreams"

FWIW, I tracked it a few years ago and had 1.3 miles at about 33 minutes walking with a group that wasn't in a huge hurry.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Radcliffe Descent (4th)
By: MojoMonkey When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: It is worth taking a trip up and down once to get familiar with the route. As indicated, the bottom is between P38 and Dennis - follow the easiest route up past the tree in the crack early on. It angles up and left over/behind P38.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6)
By: MojoMonkey When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: I've seen on multiple occasions climbers clogging up the last pitch because of some unexpected difficulty that neither of them can communicate to each other. It usually leads to lots of ineffectual shouting until someone else can intervene as vocal relay, at least. Reference, probably the most infamous High Exposure shenanigans: rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum...... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a2. The Uberfall - right : BB Route (5.8+)
By: MojoMonkey When: Jul 18, 2016

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Comments: This also felt easier to me than CC Route - style preference I guess?


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Fat Stick (5.8-)
By: MojoMonkey When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: I had fun on this (only did P1). Pulling into the notch seemed easy to me and I thought the "awkward climbing" above it was harder. Looked simple at first but I got stopped short of exiting it. Made it through (backwards?) after and didn't feel graceful, but it was amusing!


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Land of The Giants (5.7)
By: MojoMonkey When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Great long pitch - only negative for me was the couple sections of loose rock. I think I remember a few spots of looser stuff, but mainly remember the couple of larger blocks maybe 30' from the top. Nice chance to get a close-up view of the tiered roof above!


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Casa Emilio (5.3)
By: MojoMonkey When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Combined with a scramble down Roger's Escape Hatch after and the longer walk out and back, plus the scramble to the start, this can be a great goal to give a newer climber a rewarding and likely unoccupied climbing sampler!

Just getting to the start can be exciting / scary for someone new to climbing though, so keep that in mind. Some talus scrambling, a pine needle covered ramp, then a somewhat exposed climb up onto the pinnacle to belay. Starts with a little step across fr... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a2. The Uberfall - right : CC Route (5.7)
By: MojoMonkey When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Fun route with a variety of climbing in a short pitch. The bolt mentioned in the previous comment is no longer present, but there is a pin a little up and left of it. I have no real facility for judging their condition but both pins on the route seemed solid enough for me to trust. Fun little connection to history girth hitching the big ring too! Unfortunately there is obvious wear on the bolt from folks either lowering or TRing through it.

Maybe height related (I'm 6&@POUND... more >>


Location: Pennsylvania : Southeastern Lowlands : Birdsboro Quarry : 8. West Wall : Crackalicious (5.12b)
By: MojoMonkey When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: Just a heads up, back in 19-dickety-2 I climbed this onsight, chalkless, barefoot, naked and free solo with an agitated squirrel perched on my head while onlookers insulted my mother and 1000 naked women threw little pickles at me.

I'm hoping to get back on it this fall in better style.


Location: Pennsylvania : Southeastern Lowlands : Birdsboro Quarry : 4. Zorro Wall : Zorro (5.12a)
By: MojoMonkey When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: It depends on how much face (harder) vs arete (easier) climbing you do. The person that entered it stayed on the arete to the second bolt and then climbed the face and rated it 11a. Someone else called it 11b (the only person rating it so he is consensus by himself). He provided no description of the line he followed.

Never did hear which way is supposed to be 12a - face only? I haven't been back in the years since my last comment so couldn't even guess now.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Carbs and Caffeine (5.11a)
By: MojoMonkey When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: It's been a little over a year - anyone know if the bolt status is the same? Pulled out? Replaced? Sounds like there is no reasonable gear options for a while if the previous poster indicates it as R climbing...


Location: Pennsylvania : Southeastern Lowlands : Birdsboro Quarry : 9. Sun Wall (Long Slabs) : Virgin Suicides (5.9+)
By: MojoMonkey When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: As an update to my last comment, either I was less observant last time or rock is flaking off from behind the hangers. There were more bolts with 1/4" or so of bolt exposed behind the hanger. 4-6? I didn't count.

And regarding Larry's comment on the four anchor bolts, the leftmost one is maybe 2" from an abandoned drill hole. Given the rock quality and that bolt spacing guidelines I've seen are 10x bolt diameter or 2x hole depth, I wouldn't recommend anybody running the climb as one long pi... more >>


Location: Pennsylvania : Southeastern Lowlands : Birdsboro Quarry : 14. Beer Wall (Reservoir Le... : Mighty Midget (5.8)
By: MojoMonkey When: Jul 12, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Missing how? The hanger was removed but bolt still there? Bolt chopped? Chunk of rock with the bolt fell out?


Location: New York : Adirondacks : E: High Peaks Region : Wallface
By: MojoMonkey When: May 22, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Weather- and bug-wise, when is prime season for Wallface?


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