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Member Since: Nov 11, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,653
Total Points: 490

36 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 522 | Routes 6 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 86 | Page Improvements | Comments 59 | Posts 88 | Stars 164 | Ratings 119
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Buried Treasure (5.11b) : Photo
By: Ming When: Sep 11, 2017

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Comments: I'm pretty sure the upper crux has gotten easier with time. The incut for the left hand before stabbing upward certainly feels deeper than when I did it first. I think a lot of stuff got cleaned up up there. The crack to the right use to be pretty mangy :)


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : South Shore : Meyers Area : Meyers Multipitch : Divided Sky (5.7)
By: Ming When: Aug 29, 2017

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Comments: You can comfortably linke pitch 3 & 4 together for a 190 feet or so pitch. The crux comes at the beginning of the 3rd pitch and the rest is pretty easy climbing. The bolts are more spread apart after the crux so the leader needs to have a good lead head.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : South Shore : Meyers Area : Cal Trans Wall : 4X4 (5.7)
By: Ming When: Aug 29, 2017

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Comments: 2 5.7 moves seperately by easy climbing in between. The first one come basically at the 1st bolt.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Crowd Pleaser (5.7) : Photo
By: Ming When: Aug 4, 2017

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Comments: since I'm the person who took the pic it's definitely CP right smack in the middle of the first pitch


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sun City : Retirement Plan (5.7)
By: Ming When: Apr 21, 2017

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Comments: Can you hike from the top to Great Red Book area?


Location: North Carolina : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : The Nose (5.8)
By: Ming When: Apr 20, 2017

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Comments: So my personal experience is that a 70m does not rap from P4 to P3 anchors. It was close but then I didn't want to risk it so I stopped at the parking lot area and downclimbed to the p3 anchors. Not for the faint of heart and I wouldn't recommend it as it's pretty committing even though it's easy 5th. There is no way to protect the downclimb.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : Like Old Times (5.8)
By: Ming When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: I would recommend this climb to anyone who wants to do more than face climbing. A number of techniques are involved and good stemming will keep the layback at the grade. I was pleasantly surprised of the 2nd layback section, it was really fun.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : Paper Wafer (5.9)
By: Ming When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: I think this route only need a scrub. No need for a bolt. If you can do the crack you can do the easy runout slab. It's a very nice trad climb for those who brings gear.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : Scrubbing Bubbas (5.11a)
By: Ming When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: As it was completely soaked on the bottom I aided the crux move to traverse left and it was a mellow 5.10A A0. With one aid move you do not get muddy and manky and it made the climb much more pleasant for me. Much mellower and actually more fun than doing the 11ish move.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Soup to Nuts (5.12c)
By: Ming When: Oct 16, 2016

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Comments: I checked it out as I was lowered from Rock Du Jours, it looks very, very hard, anyone tried it lately? It could be the new 5.15 at Rumney, just to get the stoke going ;)


Location: New Hampshire : Southern NH and Seacoast : Deers Leap (Windham) : Hungarys Burnt (a.k.a. the ... (5.9+ PG13)
By: Ming When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: I thought the gear was tricky from the undercling large crack to the roof - so the PG-13 rating is appropriate though for a different section. I had to hang so I don't know what the right 5.9+ beta is, but it felt harder for me. It's hard to protect the move well. The upper part I had no problem with as I did it before for Goofer's Roof Right route.


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Franconia Notch : Artist's Bluff : Artist's Arete (5.5)
By: Ming When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: Gotta do the arete move! It's a 1 move wonder but it's soooo good and airy. The pro is right at the move and you can double or triple up if you don't feel so secure about the move and the slab beneath it. The arete move puts the 2nd pitch into 5.7 range.


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Franconia Notch : Artist's Bluff : Standard Direct (5.6)
By: Ming When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: If feels like the block at the bottom of the left facing corner may be a little loose. It may last a few more years but I'm not sure. Be gentle with it and I think placing any pro using the block may only be mental.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Romancing the Stone (5.10c)
By: Ming When: May 13, 2016

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Comments: I think the route is harder for the shorter (5ft 2in wingspan) people because:

1. The start undercling move I had to do a foot match to bump the right foot up and then rebalance...all while crimping on the undercling

2. Oh, and there is no way for me to put up the 1st draw (other than stick clip, of course) until after I did the move from #1...and the stab for the good hold. Talk about committing.

3. If you are 5ft 8 or taller you can skip the side cling crimp in the crack and just... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Bourbon Street (5.10c)
By: Ming When: Apr 16, 2016

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Comments: Actually measured the distance to the bottom from the top as I had to lower someone who was not comfy with rapping - the anchors straight down is around 180-190 feet. BTW what are the anchors to the left of anchors of Cloud Atlas for? I guess it would get to the ground but with a 70 meter rope I had to angle left to the start of Toxic Gumbo and I can only get to there with rope stretch.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Jugs, Not Drugs (5.8)
By: Ming When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: Best 5.8 sport route in Squamish. The 2nd and 3rd bolts protects the crux perfectly. My wife's first lead in over 2 years since we had our child and loves it. Great jugs but not a total gimme that is slight overhung at the crux with closely spaced bolts for the aspiring beginning leader. Nothing else like it at Squamish for sure. In the guidebook it is in "Betazoid" and not Milkman area though it is the same cliffband.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Oscar's Slab (5.8)
By: Ming When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: Hrm. I must've missed the 5.8 moves even though I was dead center for 1/2 the route and then trended right - which is what the chalk was indicating what everyone was doing anyways. The thing can't be harder than a 5.6. Also this one seem to have been settled at 4 bolts to the chains.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : 11b Staples finish (5.11b)
By: Ming When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: According to Squamish Select update from May 2015 the route's name is "Robin’s Route" and I think it has 8 bolts. Fun and technical


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Crack Addict (5.8)
By: Ming When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: I think once it dries up and cleans up it is more of a 5.7 layback. The feet are really, really good.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Charity Case (5.9)
By: Ming When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: Crux moves are way easier than Gold Digger, which is rated at 5.8+, so how could it be 5.9? Sailed right past it the first time no problem. Got back on it again recently and it's fun but pretty casual. If you are a number chaser this could be a great first 5.9. Can anyone think of a softer 5.9 at Rumney?


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Crowd Pleaser (5.7)
By: Ming When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Yep I used an 70. You can easily use a 60 also if you belay from the top. The 70 I need to do 2 raps. The rope was not close to the ground from the top anchors to do it in one rap - from the looks of it I doubt an 80 will get you down in one rap.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Crowd Pleaser (5.7)
By: Ming When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Linked both pitches and belayed from the top of the 2nd pitch. It was around 150-160 feet and had to skip a few bolts on the 2nd pitch to keep the rope drag manageable (apline draws would've helped alot there). First pitch is one of the best 5.7s at Rumney - it just brings a smile to my face as I was climbing it and the 2nd pitch clocked in at 5.6 or so but the position is amazing - the arete is really airy and fun.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Tipping Point (5.8)
By: Ming When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: The second pitch is stellar - a few slab moves to a headwall and a pretty cool pull over the lip of the headwall. Did I spot some blueberry patches at the tree above the 1st pitch anchors? That bumps the climb another star for me during blueberry season :)


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : B-B-Buttress (5.9+)
By: Ming When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: First time back on the route since the new start. Kudos for the cleanup! The first bolt is in a great position now and protects the move! Solid in the 9+ range now with the crux being the starting move. I actually like this router even more now. Definitely one of the best 5.9s at Rumney.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : The Beastie (5.7)
By: Ming When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: Watch out for the sap at the anchors. There is a lot of it and we got it on our rope. Yuck.


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