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Rock Climbing Photo: At Railay East Beach in Thailand


Member Since: Nov 11, 2010
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,116
Total Points: 366
Last Year: 76
Last 30 Days: 0
30 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 443 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 55 | Page Improvements | Comments 50 | Posts 80 | Stars 145 | Ratings 109
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Soup to Nuts (5.12c)
By: Ming When: Oct 16, 2016

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Comments: I checked it out as I was lowered from Rock Du Jours, it looks very, very hard, anyone tried it lately? It could be the new 5.15 at Rumney, just to get the stoke going ;)


Location: NH : Southern NH and Seacoast : Deers Leap (Windham) : Hungarys Burnt (a.k.a. the ... (5.9+ PG13)
By: Ming When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: I thought the gear was tricky from the undercling large crack to the roof - so the PG-13 rating is appropriate though for a different section. I had to hang so I don't know what the right 5.9+ beta is, but it felt harder for me. It's hard to protect the move well. The upper part I had no problem with as I did it before for Goofer's Roof Right route.


Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Artist's Bluff : Artist's Arete (5.5)
By: Ming When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: Gotta do the arete move! It's a 1 move wonder but it's soooo good and airy. The pro is right at the move and you can double or triple up if you don't feel so secure about the move and the slab beneath it. The arete move puts the 2nd pitch into 5.7 range.


Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Artist's Bluff : Standard Direct (5.6)
By: Ming When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: If feels like the block at the bottom of the left facing corner may be a little loose. It may last a few more years but I'm not sure. Be gentle with it and I think placing any pro using the block may only be mental.


Location: NH : *Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Romancing the Stone (5.10c)
By: Ming When: May 13, 2016

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Comments: I think the route is harder for the shorter (5ft 2in wingspan) people because:

1. The start undercling move I had to do a foot match to bump the right foot up and then rebalance...all while crimping on the undercling

2. Oh, and there is no way for me to put up the 1st draw (other than stick clip, of course) until after I did the move from #1...and the stab for the good hold. Talk about committing.

3. If you are 5ft 8 or taller you can skip the side cling crimp in the crack and just... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Bourbon Street (5.10c)
By: Ming When: Apr 16, 2016

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Comments: Actually measured the distance to the bottom from the top as I had to lower someone who was not comfy with rapping - the anchors straight down is around 180-190 feet. BTW what are the anchors to the left of anchors of Cloud Atlas for? I guess it would get to the ground but with a 70 meter rope I had to angle left to the start of Toxic Gumbo and I can only get to there with rope stretch.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Jugs, Not Drugs (5.8)
By: Ming When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: Best 5.8 sport route in Squamish. The 2nd and 3rd bolts protects the crux perfectly. My wife's first lead in over 2 years since we had our child and loves it. Great jugs but not a total gimme that is slight overhung at the crux with closely spaced bolts for the aspiring beginning leader. Nothing else like it at Squamish for sure. In the guidebook it is in "Betazoid" and not Milkman area though it is the same cliffband.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Oscar's Slab (5.8)
By: Ming When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: Hrm. I must've missed the 5.8 moves even though I was dead center for 1/2 the route and then trended right - which is what the chalk was indicating what everyone was doing anyways. The thing can't be harder than a 5.6. Also this one seem to have been settled at 4 bolts to the chains.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : 11b Staples finish (5.11b)
By: Ming When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: According to Squamish Select update from May 2015 the route's name is "Robin’s Route" and I think it has 8 bolts. Fun and technical


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Crack Addict (5.8)
By: Ming When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: I think once it dries up and cleans up it is more of a 5.7 layback. The feet are really, really good.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Charity Case (5.9)
By: Ming When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: Crux moves are way easier than Gold Digger, which is rated at 5.8+, so how could it be 5.9? Sailed right past it the first time no problem. Got back on it again recently and it's fun but pretty casual. If you are a number chaser this could be a great first 5.9. Can anyone think of a softer 5.9 at Rumney?


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Crowd Pleaser (5.7)
By: Ming When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Yep I used an 70. You can easily use a 60 also if you belay from the top. The 70 I need to do 2 raps. The rope was not close to the ground from the top anchors to do it in one rap - from the looks of it I doubt an 80 will get you down in one rap.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Crowd Pleaser (5.7)
By: Ming When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Linked both pitches and belayed from the top of the 2nd pitch. It was around 150-160 feet and had to skip a few bolts on the 2nd pitch to keep the rope drag manageable (apline draws would've helped alot there). First pitch is one of the best 5.7s at Rumney - it just brings a smile to my face as I was climbing it and the 2nd pitch clocked in at 5.6 or so but the position is amazing - the arete is really airy and fun.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Tipping Point (5.8)
By: Ming When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: The second pitch is stellar - a few slab moves to a headwall and a pretty cool pull over the lip of the headwall. Did I spot some blueberry patches at the tree above the 1st pitch anchors? That bumps the climb another star for me during blueberry season :)


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : B-B-Buttress (5.9+)
By: Ming When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: First time back on the route since the new start. Kudos for the cleanup! The first bolt is in a great position now and protects the move! Solid in the 9+ range now with the crux being the starting move. I actually like this router even more now. Definitely one of the best 5.9s at Rumney.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : The Beastie (5.7)
By: Ming When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: Watch out for the sap at the anchors. There is a lot of it and we got it on our rope. Yuck.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : Shine On (5.5)
By: Ming When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: I don't think it is the left most route anymore. There is another one to the left of it that goes at around 5.6 w/crux on the 2nd bolt. It's a bulge that is best done with a high left foot mantle.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Aperitif (5.9)
By: Ming When: Nov 22, 2014

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Comments: I think this is the best route at the crag. Just fun with monster jugs and very flowy movement.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Wine Style (5.11a/b)
By: Ming When: Nov 22, 2014

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Comments: Don't want to spoil it for people but it climbs easier than it looks. Too bad the fog rolled in so it was cold and damp when I tried the onsight. If you are a gym climber in the 10d/11a range you can comfortably lead through the crux of this one.


Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Hounds Hump Ridge (Eaglet e... : The Eaglet : The West Chimney (5.7)
By: Ming When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Pitch 3 variation is the way to go - easy traverse with phenomenal exposure for some memorable 5.5ish moves.

There is another 3rd pitch variation - from the bolt swing right to stay on the west side of the spire. Instead of traversing the horizontal go straight up the arete. Wonderful and airy but the climbing is really reasonable at around 5.8 (+? Not sure) or so. Fantastic way to finish the climb and it felt super exposed in that position as my left hand was grabbing the arete the whole ... more >>


Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Hounds Hump Ridge (Eaglet e... : The Eaglet : The West Chimney (5.7) : Photo
By: Ming When: Sep 7, 2014

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Comments: I think that is a much better variation than the tradition route


Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Hounds Hump Ridge (Eaglet e... : The Eaglet : Photo
By: Ming When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: Baby is getting older so I can go play more :)


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Misdemeanor (5.10b)
By: Ming When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Don't be fooled by S. Neoh's comments. I onsighted this but compared to the other benchmark 10a's at Rumney such as Masterpiece and Underdog this is definitely harder. I saw the moves left around the bulge but I went straight up to be more in line with the traditional line and that definitely goes at 10c - harder than Polly Purbred but easier than M. Falcon. So overall I split the difference and would call it 10 b/c. I personally think move to the chains from the last bolt is tricky too ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Great Red Book Area : Great Red Book (5.8) : Photo
By: Ming When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: wow! Never thought of seeing that at the top :)


Location: NH : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Black Mamba (5.11c)
By: Ming When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: For anyone who is considering this route you have to do the "whole" route - the first part is fine but it isn't that memorable but what makes this line a super classic is the whole line all the up through the V-slot and topping out of Orange Crush. As for projecting it - since I just finish projecting it I would say it's safe as long as the 3rd bolt is clipped - right before the first crux.

I have tried harder lines at Rumney but so far in the 11s only Buried Treasure and this route bring a ... more >>


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