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Member Since: Jan 20, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact mike1

Point Rank: # 19,347
Total Points: 10

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has mike1 been climbing?










Contributions


All 179 | Routes 1 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 9 | Posts 165 | Stars 3 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > The Wall > Pigs On The Wing (5.11)
By: mike1 When: Oct 31, 2017

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Comments: I agree this is one of the best routes at creek ! If you can do 3 ring locks in a row you should give it a go ! shady most of day.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > The Wall > Brain Damage (5.10c/d)
By: mike1 When: Oct 31, 2017

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Comments: I did this last weekend and found it to be a great route (3 to 4 stars). It has variety and the off-width section is reasonable because of a few edges and hand jams in back. I agree with person who posted it as straight 5.11. It is not 5.10 unless you have very small hands.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > The Optimator > Soul Fire (5.11-)
By: mike1 When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: I thought it was solid 11 but it sure looks like 11-. It has a funny angle, my hands are big, and i did not stem out to the other wall.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Tenderloins Wall > Unnamed (1) (5.11)
By: mike1 When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: I thought the crux move was more like 11+ but I have big fingers. It was very powerful and felt like sport climbing move ?


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > The Thumb Area > Nob Job (5.10d X)
By: mike1 When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: (Definately a route worth doing if you are working on your slab technique. Little Cottonwood is a great place to develop these skills for application in other locations. I guess we did a lot more slab climbing in the past since I do not think this was anywhere near X rated. Just be creative (lassoo nobs from below to protect the first big run out.)

I did this many years ago and found it to be barely R rated if you as stated above lasso giant chicken head above first flake which allows for topro... more >>


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > South Rim Routes > Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: mike1 When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: Just climbed this yesterday, and it is the best route I have done in The Black, especially if you do the alternate first two pitches to the left! You can easily scope out the alternate start from the last two rappels and get to it by going left from the last rappel to a little stance just below where the hand crack starts. The first pitch is 5.10 hands and the second pitch probably clocks in at about 11c fingers and is one of the best pitches I have every climbed anywhere! No extra gear is neede... more >>


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > South Rim Routes > Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: mike1 When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: Did this guy on 06/14/11. The alternate first two pitches are perfect splitter. Like climbing at The Creek but granite for 200 plus feet. 5.10/5.11+.


Location: Wyoming > Vedauwoo
By: mike1 When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: I was at the Voo this weekend and our posse meet, more like we were interrogated by, this crazy cat named Scarpelli. If you were the one who chopped his route, I would never, ever go back to that crag again. You might even want to quit climbing all together. This dude was pissed ! If he finds you, I believe he will stick both hands (butterflyed) through your ass, grab you by the teeth, and turn you inside out.
just sayin'.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Reservoir Wall > Slot Machine (5.11c)
By: mike1 When: Aug 15, 2007

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Comments: If you look at the required gear listed in the old guide book it documents that the crack was smaller. Now to easy. Terrible route. I will never do it again. I am going to be presumptious and speak for everyone else and say they should not do it eithier.


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