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Member Since: Jan 20, 2006
Last Visit: May 2, 2017
Contact mike1

Point Rank: # 14,187
Total Points: 10

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3

Where has mike1 been climbing?


All 178 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 12 | Posts 161 | Stars 3 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Unknown 11

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 190'

Utah : Moab Area : ... : Deadman's Buttress

Dec 29, 2014

Contributed Comments


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Soul Fire (5.11-)
By: mike1 When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: I thought it was solid 11 but it sure looks like 11-. It has a funny angle, my hands are big, and i did not stem out to the other wall.

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Unnamed (1) (5.11)
By: mike1 When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: I thought the crux move was more like 11+ but I have big fingers. It was very powerful and felt like sport climbing move ?

Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Nob Job (5.10d X)
By: mike1 When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: (Definately a route worth doing if you are working on your slab technique. Little Cottonwood is a great place to develop these skills for application in other locations. I guess we did a lot more slab climbing in the past since I do not think this was anywhere near X rated. Just be creative (lassoo nobs from below to protect the first big run out.)

I did this many years ago and found it to be barely R rated if you as stated above lasso giant chicken head above first flake which allows for topro... more >>

Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: mike1 When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: Just climbed this yesterday, and it is the best route I have done in The Black, especially if you do the alternate first two pitches to the left! You can easily scope out the alternate start from the last two rappels and get to it by going left from the last rappel to a little stance just below where the hand crack starts. The first pitch is 5.10 hands and the second pitch probably clocks in at about 11c fingers and is one of the best pitches I have every climbed anywhere! No extra gear is neede... more >>

Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: mike1 When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: Did this guy on 06/14/11. The alternate first two pitches are perfect splitter. Like climbing at The Creek but granite for 200 plus feet. 5.10/5.11+.

Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo
By: mike1 When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: I was at the Voo this weekend and our posse meet, more like we were interrogated by, this crazy cat named Scarpelli. If you were the one who chopped his route, I would never, ever go back to that crag again. You might even want to quit climbing all together. This dude was pissed ! If he finds you, I believe he will stick both hands (butterflyed) through your ass, grab you by the teeth, and turn you inside out.
just sayin'.

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Slot Machine (5.11b/c)
By: mike1 When: Aug 15, 2007

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Comments: If you look at the required gear listed in the old guide book it documents that the crack was smaller. Now to easy. Terrible route. I will never do it again. I am going to be presumptious and speak for everyone else and say they should not do it eithier.

Location: Colorado
By: mike1 When: May 15, 2007

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Comments: It also helps to use a belay device that does not promote a soft catch (rope slips easier through it) like an ATC. Look for one with grooves that lock off or go with a figure eight. They tend to lock off on their own (the figure eight).

Location: Colorado
By: mike1 When: Jan 30, 2007

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Comments: I spent the last three day at I.C. Meet many good people and shared my ropes as well as shared others ropes. Why would you pay when everyone is willing help a fellow gumby, grom out? Don't let yourself be stepped on by the man! I guarantee you can get free climbing advise and belays if you show respect for the community that has evolved down their. It is a unique place that dictates camaraderie after your first pitch due to the demanding nature of the climbing. It is humbling and comical to disc... more >>

Location: Colorado
By: mike1 When: Jan 25, 2007

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Bryan Trammell wrote:
Firsthand personal experience, 3 of the first timers at a 2005 Splitter Camp went back on their own in 2006, in a cheap car, and camped out sans generator in tents.

Hey Bryan,
there are no places to park your RV! So would expect tents until the whole place is paved.
"the past is prologue"

Location: Colorado
By: mike1 When: Jan 19, 2007

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Comments: Splitter camps will ruin Indian Creek! Here's how. The type of person ( Lets call them Gumby ) who is afraid to try crack climbing on their own 'cause it might be scary and their might be some real adventure involved and prefers to have someone else cook and clean up for them is also the type of person who spends a lot of time telling others how "intense" their adventure was. Next thing you know gumby's friends go to splitter camp so they too are "Aggro". Pretty soon their are not enough spots ... more >>

By: mike1 When: Oct 27, 2006

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Comments: Todd Skinner was an amazing pioneer who took a lot of heat for changing views about how to climb and what could be climbed. His vision will be missed. I wish there was something could be done that could console his family.

Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Moab trad/sport 4/1-?Utah Partnersmike1May 1, 2017
re: Moab climbing partner 2/3 - 5Utah Partnersmike1Feb 2, 2017
re: Moab First Weekend of FebUtah Partnersmike1Jan 26, 2017
re: Moab or Indian Creek?Utah Partnersmike1Jan 17, 2017
re: rock/ice/gym partnersUtah Partnersmike1Jan 10, 2017
To Indian creek from SLC friday nightUtah Partnersmike1Dec 15, 2016
re: partner wanted Moab or Zion, or St George Dec 16th-22ndUtah Partnersmike1Dec 15, 2016
re: Zion/city of rocks this weekend this weekendUtah Partnersmike1May 26, 2016
Zion/city of rocks this weekend this weekendUtah Partnersmike1May 26, 2016
re: Little Cottonwood Saturday PM?Utah Partnersmike1May 13, 2016
re: Bolted Cracks?Coloradomike1Jun 11, 2015
re: Heading 2 spanish islands looking for sports climbing (mallorca, menorca, and ibiza )Northern Utah & Idahomike1May 7, 2015
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