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Member Since: May 16, 2006
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Mike

Point Rank: # 219
Total Points: 2,540

650 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Mike been climbing?










Contributions


All 1680 | Routes 122 | Areas 36 | Photos 172 | Page Improvements | Comments 153 | Posts 437 | Stars 476 | Ratings 284
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Twin Butte : ... : Do The Bosco (5.12-)
By: Mike When: Apr 5, 2017

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Comments: It seems like people are skipping the hard moves out of the cave by climbing some loose blocks out right. This easier variation is on much softer rock, and some of the blocks have already come off.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : Stewart Pocket : The Joint : Kryptonite (5.8)
By: Mike When: Feb 23, 2017

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Comments: This would easily be a 3 star route if it were longer & steeper. It's still a good route though.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Insomnia Canyon : Life Without Parole (5.12) : Photo
By: Mike When: Jan 25, 2017

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Comments: That is a great shot!


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Winslow Areas : Jacks Canyon : Lost World at Jacks Canyon
By: Mike When: Jan 25, 2017

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Comments: Hey Darren. This area was not in the old guidebook, which was the current one at the time the area page was written. You are correct that it is in the newer edition, though. Maybe a page update is in order?


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Whale Dome : ... : Photo
By: Mike When: Jan 24, 2017

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Comments: Bomber, and somewhat typical for Cochise.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Whale Dome : ... : Photo
By: Mike When: Jan 24, 2017

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Comments: That anchor is good, and definitely preferable to that Devils Lake top-rope CF anchor in Ben Chapman's picture above. What the heck does any of that have to do with the the OP's picture?

If you don't like that anchor, you might not like climbing in Cochise Stronghold.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : Tofurkey (5.9)
By: Mike When: Jan 24, 2017

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Comments: Derek, Jimmy, and any others that are interested: I never put rappel anchors atop Tofurky, as it was more of an approach pitch for Turkish Delight. Feel free to put a bolted rap anchor in if you like though!


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : ... : Spoot Route (5.11+)
By: Mike When: Jan 24, 2017

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Comments: The first pitch splitter crack is great! Kudos to the FA team, and thanks for agreeing to have an anchor installed half-way.

The first pitch is mostly fingers & off-fingers on good rock. It starts thin & stays that way for a while, mostly .5 camalots. Then you get to a #1 camalot & a decent rest, then a #2 gets you past a tiny bit of choss and up into the pod for a great rest, where I placed a #4 camalot with a long sling below the mini-roof. Climb left & up out the mini-roof ... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Broken Tooth (5.12-) : Photo
By: Mike When: Jan 24, 2017

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Comments: Nice perspective!


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : Basaseachi : El Gigante : Man On Fire (5.10d A0 PG13)
By: Mike When: Jan 23, 2017

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Comments: Thanks for the improvements Zac! This is much better info than what I had posted.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Powders of Persuasion (5.11)
By: Mike When: Nov 29, 2016

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Comments: The third pitch is spectacular, the rest of the climb is not. Still a great adventure route to do once. On pitches 2 & 4 the protection was a little suspect and the rock was a little chossy, so the route is PG13 in my book.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : ... : Kamikaze Corner (5.10d R)
By: Mike When: Nov 16, 2016

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Comments: Pitch one is great, 3 stars at least. Pitch 2 is not great, 1 star at most. I give it 2 stars overall.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Touched By An Angel (5.10)
By: Mike When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: Zach how much chain is needed?


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : West Clear Creek : Anti-Crag : Last Chance (5.10c PG13)
By: Mike When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: The second pitch is good, much better than the first!


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : Christopher Creek Gorge : Canyoneers Wall : Lock and Key (5.11b/c)
By: Mike When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: This route has been rated 11- to 11+. It could use some consensus, so get on it and tell us what you think!

Overall this is a very nice route, consistently steep, with fun movement & great gear. A body length or so after the last bolt you can get a #1.5 friend (or maybe a red or brown tricam) in a pocket to protect the moves into the crack.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon
By: Mike When: Dec 23, 2015

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Comments: Daniel, they have plenty of fold-out 'Marty-maps' for LDC at the AZ Hiking Shack.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Cave Springs : The Old School Routes : ... : Photo
By: Mike When: Nov 21, 2015

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Comments: Nice crux shot. That thing is burly!


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Sig Sauer (5.12a)
By: Mike When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: Great route! It seemed tougher for big fingers, or maybe I'm just weak.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : Queen Victoria
By: Mike When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Nick & Zach, I have done the Toula route. It is a little spicy and IMHO not very good. If I were ever to do it again it would probably be by top-rope. However that is unlikely because frankly that route kind of sucks.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Epitaph (5.10-)
By: Mike When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: John it's solid but may need some webbing replaced. Bring a little just in case, and please let us know how it goes.

Also I am happy to provide the quick-links & chain if you want to permanently replace it. LMK.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Barks Canyon Wall : The Long Lead (5.8)
By: Mike When: Dec 16, 2014

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Comments: There is a rappel anchor atop the (roughly) West summit that is a more pleasant rappel than the old one through the tree. One can then scramble around to the walk-off, or rappel all the way down the face from here, but I'm not sure if you need 2 ropes for this or not.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : The Windows Route (5.10)
By: Mike When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: Josh Tokioka that sounds like the start to Extra-marital Sex.


Location: California : High Sierra : 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Sunspot Dihedral (5.11b)
By: Mike When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: Great route! IMHO it's almost as good as Positive Vibrations.


Location: California : High Sierra : 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Positive Vibrations (5.11a)
By: Mike When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: This is a spectacular route on a spectacular formation!


Location: California : High Sierra : 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)
By: Mike When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: This is a nice route on a great formation. I give it 2 stars for The Hulk, which means 3 stars anywhere else. The Red Dihedral pitch is awesome, but several of the other pitches are ok to good.


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