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Member Since: Sep 2, 2004
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Mike Sullivan
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Point Rank: # 11,784
Total Points: 15

3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Mike Sullivan been climbing?


All 159 | Routes | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 12 | Posts 63 | Stars 41 | Ratings 32

Contributed Comments


Location: South America : Chile : Valle de Los Cóndores
By: Mike Sullivan When: Dec 11, 2015

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Comments: Here's the latest info on Cóndores on the Escalando Chile and Guias Escalada Chile websites:

Here's a 2014 PDF guidebook to the area that includes over 200 routes, along with info on how to get there, where to camp, etc.:

Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey
By: Mike Sullivan When: Nov 20, 2015

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Comments: Jeff, double 60's are mandatory to rap from many (most?) of the routes in Frey and Cochamó.

Location: Colorado : Durango : Vallecito Crags : Penthouse
By: Mike Sullivan When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: Note that the anchors for each of these climbs consist of a pair of bolt hangers, most of which are located quite a ways back from the top of the route. To descend, you either have to top out and walk off (easy 2-minute scramble back to the base), or hang a cordelette or a few slings from the bolts and grab your anchor gear later. This crag would be a lot more user friendly if it was equipped with proper sport anchors, but it does offer a handful of fun moderate sport climbs in a beautiful setti... more >>

Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Piedras Blancas
By: Mike Sullivan When: Dec 20, 2014

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Comments: You can take the #50 or #51 buses to the trailhead for 6 pesos -- way cheaper than a cab. Get off at the kilometro uno stop and find the trail that goes up Cerro Otto to Piedras Blancas. A guidebook is available at Club Andino Bariloche for something like 50 pesos, so not much point in detailing routes here. I thought the best climbs were on or around Sector La Carta and the northeast face of Torre Uno. The rock can be a bit grainy/sandy on some climbs, but it's generally pretty good... more >>

Location: Mike Sullivan : stuff : Photo
By: Mike Sullivan When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: Tx -- I could use some extra points.

Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey
By: Mike Sullivan When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: Here's a nice article from Rolo on the climbing history of Frey, along with commentary about many of the spires and routes:

Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Question Mark Wall : Lowe Route (5.8)
By: Mike Sullivan When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: Not only the best 5.8 in the Cirque, I'd go so far as to call it the best 5.8 in Utah, and maybe in North America. Ultra Classic moves on perfect rock in a spectacular setting. This route epitomizes why I love alpine climbing.

Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : Surfs Up (5.9)
By: Mike Sullivan When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: First few pitches can be cold and windy, and the climbing is fun but not amazing. Once you hit the Surf's Up ledge, the upper part of this route is FANTASTIC -- great climbing and great fun.

Location: South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : Valle Trinidad : Pared Tetris
By: Mike Sullivan When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: Pared Tetris is on a south-facing corner of the east face of Cerro Laguna. The map on the wall of Refugio Cochamó shows a summit elevation of 1678m. Besides Blockhead, another notable route on Tetris is Humpty Dumpty. The route starts a bit left of the prominent cave. The heart of the climb is the first 6 pitches which work up in difficulty from 5.9 to 11a. At the top of pitch 6, climbers can rap off or continue on to the summit of Cerro Laguna via multiple pitches of easy/mod... more >>

Location: South America : Chile : Volcan Osorno
By: Mike Sullivan When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for the write-up! Just to clarify, the nearby town that you use to gain access to V. Osorno is Ensenada, not Escondido. You can catch a bus twice daily to Ensenada from Puerto Montt or Puerto Varas.

Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - East : Stress Fracture (5.10b PG13)
By: Mike Sullivan When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: The low crux requires awkward and strenuous groveling, or else this would be a 4 star climb. The big roof is super fun, and rather exciting to exit.

Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Chalcopyrite Wall : Hand Jive (5.9+)
By: Mike Sullivan When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: A very fun route -- two 5.9+ cruxes and much sustained 5.9 jamming in between. I don't think a #4 BD is needed, but at 155', the route can swallow a lot of #-.75 to #3 BD cams. I broke it into two pitches when it became clear that I would run out of larger pieces with a standard rack (doubles of everything and one #3).

There's a 2-bolt belay anchor at the top of the route that is visible from the ground. There's another 2-bolt rap anchor hidden about 10' west. This is a ... more >>

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