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Member Since: Dec 12, 2007
Last Visit: 39 mins ago
Contact Mike McL

Point Rank: # 702
Total Points: 1,140

421 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Mike McL been climbing?










Contributions


All 843 | Routes 7 | Areas 2 | Approach Trails | Photos 208 | Page Improvements | Comments 32 | Posts 95 | Stars 491 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Lake Tahoe : South Shore : Meyers Area : Guntower Wall
By: Mike McL When: Sep 15, 2017

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Comments: Good slab climbing. Morning sun/afternoon shade. This wall bakes in the sun.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : South Shore : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : True Grip (5.10b)
By: Mike McL When: Sep 15, 2017

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Comments: Fine route. Offset cams are useful for this climb, bring them if you've got them.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : South Shore : The Pie Shop : Middle Aged Wall : I Wanted a Corvette (5.11a)
By: Mike McL When: Sep 15, 2017

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Comments: Cool stemming and step across move. At 5'10" and with poor flexibility I had to do a small dyno out of the stem for the good hold (I was maxed out on the stem and still was a few inches away from the good hold). I'm not the best at rating climbs, but this felt easier than 11a to me. 10c? I'd be curious what others think.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : South Shore : The Pie Shop : Middle Aged Wall
By: Mike McL When: Sep 15, 2017

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Comments: This is a fun area with a high concentration of good climbs. Easy to get some climbing in here if you're strapped for time.


Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Wolfs Head : East Ridge (5.6)
By: Mike McL When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Best 5.6 ever? I won't argue with that one. Continuously exposed. Lots of exhilarating moves with all the exposure.

We did the Tiger Tower approach which was pretty straightforward. I am a wimp about soloing and never felt the need to rope up before the 2 short rappels. We did belay 1 short section after the second rappel but only because it had snow and ice on it (north side) from a recent storm.

Monty's beta is pretty much spot on. The only th... more >>


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : West Shore : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : Buster Brown (5.10b)
By: Mike McL When: Nov 7, 2015

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Comments: 2 #4s protects the end very well.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Slowdancer (5.9)
By: Mike McL When: Oct 3, 2015

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Comments: link this one up with Penny Candy for a good route. Heads up at the start.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Carson Pass Highway (88) : Woodfords Canyon : Cloudburst Canyon : ... : Ativan Grin (5.10b)
By: Mike McL When: Oct 3, 2015

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Comments: offset cams are very useful for this route. There are lots of flaring cracks in the middle of the route that eat up offset cams. Bring 'em if you have 'em.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Psychedelic Tree (5.9)
By: Mike McL When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: A really nice route that protects well. Climbs better than it looks. The first pitch is long and sustained with plenty of interesting stemming. We took the roof finish to P2 and it was pretty wild.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall : East Face : Black Dihedral (5.10b)
By: Mike McL When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: As others have said, emphasis on small gear for this one. This climb eats up nuts, especially offsets. I placed 1 blue camalot and 1 green camalot, and everything else was smaller. Tiny cams are useful. Of course, YMMV.

Really cool climb requiring a variety of techniques. I found it to be very well protected.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Carson Pass Highway (88) : Woodfords Canyon : Crystal Springs Canyon : ... : Right Branch (5.8)
By: Mike McL When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: Bring 2 #4s for the fists section if you want to sew it up


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Endgame (5.10a/b)
By: Mike McL When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: Like others have said, an excellent route.

Regarding the gear thing, I thought the only piece I was really happy to have was a .75 (green) camalot on pitch 3. I placed 2 nuts mainly because I could, but the runout sections are very easy on pitches 1 and 2. Of course YMMV, but consider a green camalot for P3 if 5.10 is near your limit.


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : Finger of Fate : Open Book (5.8)
By: Mike McL When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: The corner can be done in 2 pitches with a 70 m rope. 1st pitch ends at the small ledge just right of the roof. 2nd pitch goes all the way to the big ledge. If done this way, 2 #4 camalots can be useful if you want to sew up the 2 short, wider sections on P1.

Stellar climb.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Eichorn Pinnacle : West Pillar (5.9)
By: Mike McL When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: I found doubles of hand sized cams (green-blue camalots) useful for the standard route. 2 #4s are helpful as well if you want to sew it up. Of course, YMMV.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Northwest Face : Direct Northwest Face (5.10b/c)
By: Mike McL When: Jun 28, 2012

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Comments: Great route. 3 nice pitches of splitter cracks.

The 5.9 slab move near the top is a bit heads up. I found that a orange/red mastercam offset protects the move very well in a pin scar just to the right of the move. It takes the ledge fall potential out of the scenario. So if you've got one, it's worth bringing.

Offset nuts aren't mandatory, but they work great on the pinscars on P1. Same goes for offset cams.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Carson Pass Highway (88) : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : ... : Cat Scratch Fever (5.10a)
By: Mike McL When: Feb 26, 2012

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Comments: This is a pretty good route, certainly worth doing. A fairly clean dihedral with some fun jamming and laybacking. It takes good gear, and you can get in some solid pieces before the cruxes. Bring some extra finger sized cams.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Carson Pass Highway (88) : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : ... : Sun Wall Middle (5.10b)
By: Mike McL When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: Nice route. Mostly thin hands and hands with a short but awkward wide pod at the beginning.

2 #4s would not go unused but aren't absolutely necessary. I'd bring at least 1. Doubles of fingers to hands is nice to have if you want to sew it up.

I'm not sure what the 'correct' way to go at the top is. After pulling the roof through the bombay section, there's one more tricky thin hands section then you get to a nice stance. I checked it out straight up from here but the rock qualit... more >>


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Touch and Go (5.9)
By: Mike McL When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: Great route if done to Lizard Ledge.

The P1 flare on the right side of the Rat's Tooth is very nice. Somewhat strenuous with few rests. Fortunately that hand crack in the back makes it moderate. Take extra #2 and #3 camalots if you want to sew if up. 3 of each would not go unused. We had 3 #2s and 2 #3s and used them all. Climb through a roof, move left, and belay at bolts. These bolts are below Hungover Hangover.

Alternately you could climb the middle of the... more >>


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : West Shore : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Creek Cliff : Between Two Worlds (5.10b)
By: Mike McL When: Aug 23, 2011

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Comments: Nice climb. Bring some small nuts to protect the crux.


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Stuart-Enchantments : Mt Stuart : Upper North Ridge w/Great G... (5.9)
By: Mike McL When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Excellent route! We did it late this July in a heavy snow year. We camped near Ingalls Lake to get a head start on the approach. Know that if you do this, you have about a 4 mile hike that gains 1600 feet of elevation to get back to camp from the base of the Cascadian Couloir. If you do a car shuttle, an approach from the Mountaineers Creek trailhead with a descent down the Cascadian and over Long's Pass is a good idea. Of course if you do this you have to carry over all of your gear. By c... more >>


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : West Shore : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : Crackula (5.10a)
By: Mike McL When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Bring a 4 inch cam for the top


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Stuart-Enchantments : Prusik Peak : Stanley-Burgner Route (5.9+)
By: Mike McL When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: If leading near your limit a 4 inch piece is very useful on the first 5.8 pitch (the left variation) as well as the final pitch.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Six Star Wall : Six Star Crack (5.13-) : Photo
By: Mike McL When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: great perspective


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : West Wall : April Fools (5.9)
By: Mike McL When: Apr 29, 2011

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Comments: Am I crazy or is this on the West Wall? It's to the right of Hospital Corner.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : Photo
By: Mike McL When: Apr 20, 2010

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Comments: Cool light...nice shot.


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