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Member Since: Jul 14, 2002
Last Visit: Aug 26, 2016
Contact Mike Epke

Point Rank: # 5,486
Total Points: 110

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Mike Epke been climbing?


All 84 | Routes 8 | Areas 2 | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 28 | Posts 34 | Stars 10 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Mosquito Coast

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 (15)

Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'

Utah > Moab Area > ... > Sunshine Wall Routes

Apr 28, 2009

Slab Route

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (79)

Sport, 1 pitch, 70'

Utah > Moab Area > ... > Ice Cream Parlor

Apr 30, 2007

Dihedral [River Wall] aka Shades of Murky Depths

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (21)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Colorado > Lyons > ... > River Wall II

Aug 27, 2005

Low Traverse

V0 4 (25)

Boulder, 10'

Colorado > Morrison/Evergreen > ... > Tree Slab

Aug 17, 2004

Center Route

V0 4 (9)

Boulder, 20'

Colorado > Boulder > ... > South Shelf Block

Jul 25, 2004

Frosty Cone

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (276)

Trad, 1 pitch, 80'

California > Joshua Tree National Park > ... > Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si...

Nov 26, 2003

East Ridge

4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b (52)

Trad, 3 pitches, 400'

Colorado > Flatirons > ... > Hammerhead

Jul 22, 2003

Torture Chamber Traverse

V1 5 (16)


Colorado > Fort Collins > ... > Torture Chamber

May 23, 2003

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

South Shelf Block

Colorado > Boulder > Mount Sanitas

Jul 27, 2004

Torture Chamber

Colorado > Fort Collins > Horsetooth Reservoir

May 24, 2003

Contributed Comments


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress > Anthill Direct (5.9- R)
By: Mike Epke When: Sep 1, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Agree with everyone who suggested Touch N' Go into Anthill Direct. Not a bad pitch among them all and the direct finish was a great way to cap off a great moderate route. For P4 I feel like it was harder than .5 climbing past the pins above the belay.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... > Green Slab Direct (5.9)
By: Mike Epke When: May 13, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Loved the route myself, but as mentioned in the route description some questions about what I actually climbed came up. On P3 I left the belay, climbed up the crack on the right all the way to its terminus (noticing the pin/bolt out left lower down), and that's where the uncertainty came in. At the top of the crack where it gets rather thin (green Alien), I was unsure where to go. I ended up moving up a bit more, finding funky combo of undercling on the left and hold high and right, then maki... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part D - Xanad... > Xanadu (5.10a)
By: Mike Epke When: Jun 18, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Great route, my first .10a lead in Eldo, it felt so good. Secure stems the whole way up w/ good gear every 6-8 feet once in the cruxy section of the climb, bottom is a bit less frequent for gear. Great climb that I'll repeat many times. Heavy on .4 and .5 camalots once into the upper section of the climb.

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Kane Springs Canyon > Ice Cream Parlor > Hot Karl Sunday (5.10c)
By: Mike Epke When: May 2, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with the previous comment about a .10c rating. Feels kind of soft for .11a. Very safe lead w/ the crux up high on the route.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Rincon > Rincon - Center Route & R > Five-Eight Crack (5.8 R)
By: Mike Epke When: Oct 10, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: I definitely agree with an S rating on this. I tried to get an Alien into the undercling, but it felt like it was very poor, so I moved up a bit and placed a small nut before making the crux move. Once through the crux, the climb will take small cams and even a #1 Camalot near the top to prevent a big [swing] by someone toproping the climb. Fun and thought-provoking for someone like myself just getting into 5.9 leading, however.

Location: Colorado > Golden > North Table Mountain/Golden... > Overhang Area > This Ain't Naturita, Pilgri... (5.9)
By: Mike Epke When: Nov 8, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route right at the top of the trail. The moves on the face are exciting. What is the story with the two bolts so close together?

Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > The Catslab
By: Mike Epke When: Oct 21, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Great place for sport leading and trying to push leading limits as all routes are very well bolted for protection.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Matron > North Face (5.6)
By: Mike Epke When: Sep 6, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: This great route can be done in three pitches with a 60m rope. Do pitch one as desribed w/ belay at the tree. Pitch 2 should use a belay at about 160-170 feet using a large vertical crack with a good #3 Camalot placement and nuts. Pitch 3 can take you all the way to the summit. Enjoy.

Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Lost Horse Area > Dairy Queen Wall > Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si... > Frosty Cone (5.7)
By: Mike Epke When: Dec 7, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: I agree, this should be 2 out of 3 stars, I mistakenly marked 3 out of 3 when putting the route up. Enjoy this fun climb.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Third Flatiron > Friday's Folly (5.7)
By: Mike Epke When: Aug 6, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Great route with some super exciting exposure almost from the first move. The first move can be protected very well with a yellow alien and from then on all the gear is easy to place. Enjoy this exciting route, even better if you climbed Standard East Face to get there.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Two Move Rock > South East Ridge/Two Move R... (5.2)
By: Mike Epke When: Jul 23, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Combining this route w/ the East Ridge on Hammerhead Rock then do Yodeling Moves on the back on Hammerhead makes for an excellent scramble over some beautiful rock on onto the unique summit of Hammerhead. Enjoy.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part B - Long ... > Washington Irving (5.6)
By: Mike Epke When: Jul 21, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Super fun route with some committing moves for a 5.6, but as said before the route eats the pro up and is a touch harder than Calypso for the same grade.

deserves three stars

Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Big Thompson Canyon > The Monastery > Outer Gates > Abbot Arete (5.7)
By: Mike Epke When: Jun 28, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: You can actually rap from this route with two one rope rappels by going to the rap station for Southern Hospitality. Fun route that was definitely stiffer climbing than the two 5.7s down the hill. Enjoy this excellent, long climb.

Location: Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Fall Wall > Cold Finger (5.7)
By: Mike Epke When: Jun 22, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Fun climb and definitely a bit runout between bolts two and three. I believe there are only four bolts, then the anchor. Good climb to do then TR Drop Zone using the anchors above it. Enjoy.

Location: Colorado > Fort Collins > Horsetooth Reservoir > Torture Chamber
By: Mike Epke When: Jun 15, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: The problem is definitely pumpy, but it also has good hand holds throughout so I was reluctant to give it the V1 rating and was thinking more like V0-, but then before posting the climb I looked in Colorado Bouldering and saw the V1 grade so went with it. The climb is a great work out where you will definitely be feeling the pump by the end.

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