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Dec 4, 2016
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 97
1000' of Fun
Oct 9, 2023 · Lead. W Andrew, 4.5 hrs car-to-car. Approach takes about 10 mins. Mostly super, super easy climbing. Crux on P4 (huecos next to chimney) looks steep, and is slightly off-camber (which is awkward), but is fine - good handholds to be found in the huecos, as well as cam placements. Crux on P5 is unprotected slab, although you eventually can slot a #3 Camelot in a hueco before the last hard (relatively speaking) move. None of it is that hard, though. Stopped at top of P5, didn’t try to connect to other climb. Raps are the most difficult part! Had to saddlebag ropes to deal with shallow angle, which was a pain. Could consider lowering the first, as a way around that? And then the second just saddlebags the pull cord? Also, first rap (P5) has rope-eating flakes, ropes got stuck on pull, and I had to re-lead P5 crux on pull cord (not ideal). Need to be very careful where you lay the rope down on that rappel, and then I flipped the pull cord as far to climbers right as possible for the pull, and that worked. P4 may also have some places a rope could get stuck, we were careful there too; rest of pitches are clean. For the rack, just cams - could probably just do one set, although I had two, and placed from a Metollius 0 up to a Camelot 4. Plus runners for extensions. Anchors are all bolted with chains. Climb faces the sun, one Gatorade wasn’t enough.
Trad 5 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 460
The West Slabs
Sep 9, 2023 · 3 pitches. Lead. W Eggertz, 3hrs to top, ~5hrs car-to-car, perfect day! Simul’ed in 3 blocks, in approach shoes. Climbed up and right to a left facing dihedral, then up from there. Saw other parties climbing further left, so options there too. Decent (recommended!): From summit ridge, leave harness on and scramble down (west) for a bit (10 mins?). Look for a massive pine w slings on it, close to ridge line and sitting above a cliff. Rap that (single 60m rope) in gully, remove harness. Scramble down gully to “notch” thing, then down skier’s right gully to start of climb.
Trad 10 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 301
Lowe Route
Jul 29, 2023 · Lead. W Eggertz, in a day from Peak View TH (note- correct hiking route doesn’t follow dirt road - take Peak View trail south of gate). 5am-5:30pm, ~18mi. Great trip! 100 degrees in the valley, but starting early led to excellent climbing temps on the wall; day trip recommended! On Pete’s Staircase, we tried to go high too early - keep traversing right for easier way. Rack: two sets of cams plus nuts (placed lots of gear - don’t do single set of cams!) Hiked over to summit proper for exit.
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 715
Steorts' Ridge
Jun 4, 2023 · 2 pitches. Lead. W Todd. Did in two pitches. For rappels, walk past chains at top of E Diahedrals, but don’t go down sloping ramp (rap anchors are on wall above the start of the ramp).
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
The Nose
May 21, 2023 · 6 pitches. Lead. W/ Carlos, swung leads. Summary: fun climbing, approach and decent detract from it. 45 approach, 5:45 to top, 7:15 back to car. Climbing was fun, mostly easy w a few harder (but doable) bits. Broke it into more pitches than listed. Decent gully is right off top, to north. Went to big pine, and then had to go back up and north to access next gully. Had to do two more rightward traverses in gully to avoid cliffs (you know when you’re at them).
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 55
The Gray Slabs
Jul 29, 2022 · With Ron.
Trad 10 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
1000' of Fun S Central Utah > … > Eastern Reef Ar… > O Crags (Three Finger…
 97
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
Oct 9, 2023 · Lead. W Andrew, 4.5 hrs car-to-car. Approach takes about 10 mins. Mostly super, super easy climbing. Crux on P4 (huecos next to chimney) looks steep, and is slightly off-camber (which is awkward), but is fine - good handholds to be found in the huecos, as well as cam placements. Crux on P5 is unprotected slab, although you eventually can slot a #3 Camelot in a hueco before the last hard (relatively speaking) move. None of it is that hard, though. Stopped at top of P5, didn’t try to connect to other climb. Raps are the most difficult part! Had to saddlebag ropes to deal with shallow angle, which was a pain. Could consider lowering the first, as a way around that? And then the second just saddlebags the pull cord? Also, first rap (P5) has rope-eating flakes, ropes got stuck on pull, and I had to re-lead P5 crux on pull cord (not ideal). Need to be very careful where you lay the rope down on that rappel, and then I flipped the pull cord as far to climbers right as possible for the pull, and that worked. P4 may also have some places a rope could get stuck, we were careful there too; rest of pitches are clean. For the rack, just cams - could probably just do one set, although I had two, and placed from a Metollius 0 up to a Camelot 4. Plus runners for extensions. Anchors are all bolted with chains. Climb faces the sun, one Gatorade wasn’t enough.
The West Slabs Wasatch Range > … > Mt Olympus > W Slabs
 460
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 10 pitches
Sep 9, 2023 · 3 pitches. Lead. W Eggertz, 3hrs to top, ~5hrs car-to-car, perfect day! Simul’ed in 3 blocks, in approach shoes. Climbed up and right to a left facing dihedral, then up from there. Saw other parties climbing further left, so options there too. Decent (recommended!): From summit ridge, leave harness on and scramble down (west) for a bit (10 mins?). Look for a massive pine w slings on it, close to ridge line and sitting above a cliff. Rap that (single 60m rope) in gully, remove harness. Scramble down gully to “notch” thing, then down skier’s right gully to start of climb.
Lowe Route Wasatch Range > … > Lone Peak Cirque > Question Mark Wall
 301
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Jul 29, 2023 · Lead. W Eggertz, in a day from Peak View TH (note- correct hiking route doesn’t follow dirt road - take Peak View trail south of gate). 5am-5:30pm, ~18mi. Great trip! 100 degrees in the valley, but starting early led to excellent climbing temps on the wall; day trip recommended! On Pete’s Staircase, we tried to go high too early - keep traversing right for easier way. Rack: two sets of cams plus nuts (placed lots of gear - don’t do single set of cams!) Hiked over to summit proper for exit.
Steorts' Ridge Wasatch Range > … > Big Cottonwood… > Dead Snag
 715
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Jun 4, 2023 · 2 pitches. Lead. W Todd. Did in two pitches. For rappels, walk past chains at top of E Diahedrals, but don’t go down sloping ramp (rap anchors are on wall above the start of the ramp).
The Nose Wasatch Range > … > Ogden > Mezzanines
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
May 21, 2023 · 6 pitches. Lead. W/ Carlos, swung leads. Summary: fun climbing, approach and decent detract from it. 45 approach, 5:45 to top, 7:15 back to car. Climbing was fun, mostly easy w a few harder (but doable) bits. Broke it into more pitches than listed. Decent gully is right off top, to north. Went to big pine, and then had to go back up and north to access next gully. Had to do two more rightward traverses in gully to avoid cliffs (you know when you’re at them).
The Gray Slabs Wasatch Range > … > Snowbasin > Mt Ogden
 55
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 10 pitches
Jul 29, 2022 · With Ron.

Tick Breakdown
Trad Sport Boulder Ice

Pitches Routes Days Out
90 Days 0 0 0
Last Year 19 5 5
5 Years 103 35 19
All Time 103 35 19

Where Mike Climbs

TradSportTRBoulderIce
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