REI Community


Member Since: Apr 3, 2002
Last Visit: moments ago
Contact Michael Schneiter

Michael Schneiter
is a member of
Point Rank: # 48
Total Points: 8,745

299 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Michael Schneiter been climbing?










Michael Schneiter

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 3338 | Routes 292 | Areas 80 | Approach Trails | Photos 925 | Page Improvements | Comments 341 | Posts 394 | Stars 1230 | Ratings 76
Page 14 of 14.  <<First   <Prev   12  13  14

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah > West Desert > House Range > Notch Peak > Western Hardman (5.10c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 19, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: No hesitations, I'm just curious to know how it compares to Book of Saturday. When I climbed Book of Saturday last year I immediately wondered what the other routes were like but I know relatively little about them, other than information from the American Alpine Journal. I thought Book of Saturday was great and I'd like to complete some other lines on Notch. I think my question in part comes from my experience with our local limestone/quartzite in which some is great and some is absolute choss.... more >>


Location: Utah > West Desert > House Range > Notch Peak > Book of Saturday (5.11a R)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 14, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: According to James Garrett's Ibex guide, it's "Book of Saturday," named for the Saturdays that the first ascentionists spent completing the route over a period of two years.


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Mt. Moroni > Voice from the Dust (5.11)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 8, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: I'm not sure what to give it for stars. Just depends on what kind of desert, sand-in-your-eye routes you like. If people are giving Iron Messiah 3-1/2 stars then this probably deserves 3. I thought it was better than Equinox and the NE Buttress of Angels Landing if that says anything.


Location: Utah > West Desert > House Range > Notch Peak > Western Hardman (5.10c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 8, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Sounds like a good route and what a location. How does this compare to Book of Saturday? (rock quality, seriousness, etc.)


Location: Utah > Zion National Park
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 7, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Adam,

I can't comment on the climbing, but a friend tried to do this route and was greatly surprised at the length of approach (I think 4 hours). They intended to fix and blast but I believe they couldn't fix more than the first pitch or two with two ropes due to the traversing nature of the first pitch. Other than that, word is it's a stellar route. Good luck, I'll be in Zion myself in a couple weeks.


Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Glenwood Canyon Ice > Unknown (WI4-5)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Dec 26, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: No, Hidden Falls is on the other side of the river. The climb described above is right of Glenwood Falls.


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Cerberus Gendarme > Touchstone Wall (5.9 C2)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Nov 30, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Touchstone can be crowded, particuarly due to the fact that people like to practice aid climbing on the first few pitches. A great alternative, from the sound of your experience in Zion, would be Sheer Lunacy, if you've done the trade routes (Spaceshot, Moonlight, and Prodigal). Also, there's a bunch of excellent free routes in a kind of "second-tier" of classic climbs in Zion. Routes like Sunlight Buttress (which could be aided), Voice from the Dust, Bits and Pieces, Wigs in Space, Made to be B... more >>


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Angel's Landing > Northeast Buttress (5.11a R)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Oct 30, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: As Mike said earlier, you wouldn't want to fall on those pitches, you could get screwed up. I would consider them to be "engaging." Nothing too hard, but you're very aware of the consequences of a fall. The first "R" pitch (pitch 2?) didn't seem quite as bad. My partner placed some small gear but I question whether it would have held much of a fall, especially considering the soft sandstone. At the beginning of that pitch there's a set of awkward wide moves protected by a bolt. If you blow it yo... more >>


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Leaning Wall > Spaceshot (5.7 C2) > Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Sep 18, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: The photo is definitely the top (about 15-20 feet from the top) of the final pitch of Spaceshot, the one that starts from Earth Orbit. Twice I've groveled my way past that section with mixed free and aid. It's tough mentally to get out of the aiders there. Cool pic though.


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Isaac > Tricks of the Trade (5.10+ C2)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 24, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: You can now rappel the entire route. All of the anchors are double bolt so no bolt kit is needed. The original descent was into the gully between Isaac and Moroni and sounded epic. We only hauled to the bivy ledge and then rapped the route. I felt like this was a good way to do it because it breaks the route into two nice blocks.

On the aid pitch I used small HB offset nuts, ball nuts, and offset aliens.

Have fun.




Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Leaning Wall > Vernal Equinox (5.10+ R)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 6, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Did Equinox about a week ago. It's definitely an adventure route and you should be fond of chimneys. Thought I would post some info about what we found because it doesn't seem to get done very often.

The fixed hex on the crux pitch is definitely hammered in good. The cord on it is very bleached and is ratty. I didn't feel comfortable clipping it, let alone falling on it (which might have been influenced by my experience with a fixed sling breaking last summer on El Cap). I tried to get the hex ... more >>


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Moonlight Buttress > Lunar Ecstasy (5.10 C2+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 6, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: I heard the tale of somebody that went up Lunar X with a crowbar and tried to pry off the Amoeba. I don't know the details, but I got a good laugh out of the thought.


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Angel's Landing > Lowe Route (A2)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Oct 4, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: There is a nice ledge on the top of pitch 4 that would probably be suitable for sleeping w/o a portaledge. There's also a good anchor for portaledges. The ledge on the top of pitch 7 might work, but I remember it being rather small for sleeping. I think the anchor was really solid on P7 for portaledges. I believe this is a great route to fix and blast because there are numerous sections, especially the top, that would suck for hauling. Hence, I have heard people talk about rapping the route rath... more >>


Location: Colorado > Grand Junction Area > Colorado National Monument > Kissing Couple area > Kissing Couple > Long Dong Wall (aka Bell To... (5.11a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 26, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Just did this route for the second time this weekend. Does anyone remember if there is a summit log on top? We couldn't find it and I couldn't remember if there was one up there the first time I did it. I was having a hard time believing that there wouldn't be a summit log on such a cool tower. Also, I like to keep routes intact, especially adventurous desert routes, but it seemed to me that the belay station in the belfry could use a retrobolting. Currently, there are two fixed pieces, a really... more >>


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Angel's Landing > Northeast Buttress (5.11a R)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Dec 2, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: A friend and I did this route recently and I thought I'd provide some additional beta. I think Jason's descriptions were good overall and I wish we would have had his information because it would have cleared up some of the confusion on pitch 5. On pitch 5, we climbed the crack to your right in the left facing dihedral. When we reached pitch 5 I started to lead up the right facing corner (directly above the bolted belay) because that's what our guide said to do, but it also mentioned a bolt. Aft... more >>


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Isaac > Tricks of the Trade (5.10+ C2)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Oct 10, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Wanted to get some firsthand information from people that have done Tricks. We're hoping to do it in a couple of weeks. I have heard conflicting information about number of big cams to bring. On this site it says "a #5 Camalot." But, I've heard from others that you should bring 3-4 each of #4-1/2 and #5 Camalots. So, what's the story? Thanks for your help.


Page 14 of 14.  <<First   <Prev   12  13  14

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · Contact · About