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Member Since: Apr 3, 2002
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Michael Schneiter

Michael Schneiter
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Point Rank: # 61
Total Points: 6,310

288 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Michael Schneiter been climbing?










Michael Schneiter

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 3238 | Routes 291 | Areas 80 | Photos 920 | Page Improvements | Comments 329 | Posts 391 | Stars 1188 | Ratings 39
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : The Cave Route aka NoName 0... (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 3, 2017

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Comments: This route is called The Cave Route in the new guidebook, so perhaps we could update the name here as well.


Location: Colorado : Rifle
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 1, 2017

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Comments: No. It's a city owned park. Season passes can be purchased in town at city hall or with the campground host. Day passes are available at the entrance station.


Location: Colorado : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : Jumbled Buttress : The War on Peace (5.7)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: Glad you enjoyed the adventure. All good beta. I updated the beta photo as we recently added the bolted belay at the top of the 2nd/3rd pitch and on top of the last pitch, making belays easier and descent much easier.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : The Funny Face : Fallon (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: Glad you enjoyed it. It could be led on gear, as I did on the FA, but it's Rifle, so bolts it is.

The route to the right is Rogen, 5.10+ or maybe 11-. We have climbed on it a lot, but it needs a little love still and some reinforcing or removal of questionable holds that I haven't been able to remove. I may add it to the database to prevent confusion as I've been seeing people climb it.


Location: Colorado : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : Jumbled Buttress : Courage (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 17, 2017

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Comments: A word of warning: this climb is in rough shape currently, even by No Name Canyon standards. The base has a bunch of poison ivy although you can traverse into the first pitch from the left and avoid it. The first pitch is super dirty and much more so than I ever remember it being. The second pitch is even dirtier, and it appears that a large block may have come off the second pitch, offering an explanation for some of that filth. Needs some loving with a broom, or a whole army of brooms!

Also, ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : The Funny Face : Fallon (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 16, 2017

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Comments: I changed the start on this to an easier start to the left that also allows it to have a separate start from the new route on the right.


Location: Colorado : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : Yellico Groove (5.11a/b)
By: Michael Schneiter When: May 3, 2017

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Comments: Called Yellico Groove in the new Western Sloper guidebook. Rebolted with glue-ins provided by the ASCA. Makes for a much more enjoyable lead now. This is a decent little pitch of climbing and worthy.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 23, 2017

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Comments: Glad you appreciate the new hardware. All of the old fixed hardware was replaced with glue-ins through a permit from the National Monument. Hardware was provided by the ASCA, support them whenever you can.

Rock Climbing Photo: New top anchor.
New top anchor.



Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 13, 2017

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Comments: Some clarification or help in finding the trail for routes in the Voodoo Child/Super Natural/Crooked Arrow Spire: When you first turn off 128, there's a good road straight ahead with a big square shaped parking lot. This is for the equestrian trails. The climbing approach takes the immediate left after leaving 128 and there is a sign there indication climber access (although with no arrow). There is some initial roughness getting into the wash but it's mos... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : River Road : Take-Out Beach
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 13, 2017

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Comments: This area should probably be placed under the River Road area so it is with other sub-areas of that bigger area.


Location: Iowa
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jan 14, 2017

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Comments: Pictured Rocks outside Monticello would have some of the best routes with easiest access and ability to figure out where the climbs are.


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : Rifle Mountain State Park : West Side of the Canyon
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jan 12, 2017

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Comments: Stone Free and Ice Palace are on state-owned Division of Wildlife land that is part of the trout hatchery and hence are off limits to all climbing, including mixed and ice climbing. These climbs are not part of city-owned land that makes up Rifle Mountain Park. In the last few years, the Division of Wildlife has put up more and more signs that state "No Climbing", and DOW employees will chase off climbers who climb there. It should be encouraged to honor this closur... more >>


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : Rifle Mountain State Park : West Side of the Canyon
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jan 12, 2017

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Comments: The routes listed here are not in order but to put them in order as you drive through the canyon, they would be:

Stone Free
Ice Palace
Soul On Ice
Lower Ice Cave (not on MP)
Tree Slab
Final Curtain


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : Rifle Mountain State Park : West Side of the Canyon : Stone Free (WI5+)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: Stone Free and Ice Palace are on state-owned Division of Wildlife land that is part of the trout hatchery and hence are off limits to all climbing, including mixed and ice climbing. These climbs are not part of city-owned land that makes up Rifle Mountain Park. In the last few years, the Division of Wildlife has put up more and more signs that state "No Climbing", and DOW employees will chase off climbers who climb there. It should be encouraged to honor this closur... more >>


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : Rifle Mountain State Park : West Side of the Canyon : Ice Palace (WI5-6)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: Stone Free and Ice Palace are on state-owned Division of Wildlife land that is part of the trout hatchery and hence are off limits to all climbing, including mixed and ice climbing. These climbs are not part of city-owned land that makes up Rifle Mountain Park. In the last few years, the Division of Wildlife has put up more and more signs that state "No Climbing", and DOW employees will chase off climbers who climb there. It should be encouraged to honor this closur... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Nose (5.9 C2) : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Oct 4, 2016

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Comments: Not a Photoshop job. I've heard Tom tell the story of how he got that. How he had always waited for the right day when the moon was in the right position and then the guys he photographed had a mini epic or something so they ended up bivying and being in the right spot for the photo early in the morning. Basically, things just worked out right for him to get the moon and the climbers just right.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Nappy Dugout : Geriatric Journey (5.11c)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Aug 16, 2016

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Comments: I forgot about the crux right off the ground. I'll update the description.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jul 21, 2016

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Comments: Regarding the above. The campgrounds DO NOT open when Hwy 120 opens and the higher elevation campgrounds like Tuolumne Meadows will open much later typically. It varies year by year depending on snowpack and the spring melt. The Forest Service campgrounds located east of the entrance (toward Lee Vining) will open earlier so you can always stay down lower if climbing in Tuolumne early season.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : The Funny Face : Fallon (5.9)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: I know the rock at the top looks dubious, but it wouldn't come off with hammer and crowbar. I'll probably reinforce some of it with glue to help ease any fears.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Straight Man (5.10a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: I hear ya about the X-marked holds. The big block wouldn't move with a 3 foot bar, but I know it looks questionable. A hold up high worked loose last summer and now has an X on it, although it's kind of "puzzle pieced" in there. I'll go over this route again with the bar and maybe some glue, probably in the next week.


Location: Stuff For Sale : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Yes


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Grit Wall
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: If you're interested in mileage to help find the pullout, I measured it at 6.4 miles from US Highway 50 to the pullout. If you're coming from the south, it's 2.6 miles from Cactus Park.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Arc Angel (5.10a)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: There's a new route to the right of this, climbing just left of a small corner feature. It starts about 30-40 feet right of Arc Angel, on the right side of the tree.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Lever Action (not Downdraft... (5.11d)
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 28, 2016

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Comments: As I recall, in an old guidebook it listed the route below the roof and to the first anchor as Downdraft and the extension through the roof, via the crack, as Lever Action. Always seems a bit confusing to me to have different route names for every extension to a route.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Mt. Kinesava : Cowboy Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: Michael Schneiter When: Mar 28, 2016

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Comments: Instead of dropping down where the red line is at the bottom of the photo, we stayed on the ridgeline proper and it was fine and really fun. Of course, on a ridge like this there are a lot of options but this was one area where I thought it was worthwhile in terms of reward and effort to stay on the ridge proper.


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