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Rock Climbing Photo: devil's lake falling


Member Since: Oct 11, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 5,631
Total Points: 100
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 125 | Routes | Areas | Photos 18 | Page Improvements | Comments 10 | Posts 31 | Stars 61 | Ratings 5

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Higher Cathedral Rock : Book of Job (5.10)
By: B-Slim When: Oct 26, 2016

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Comments: This climb is a true 5 stars climb you must get on it.
Protection is great all the way. We have used the double #5.
With a 70M and double rack + triple hand size you should combine p1-p2 and p4-p5 there is no drag at all.
it was funny to pull on the bush on top of p5 :D not sure if that's part of the routes.
The approach/decent is not that clear as it involves some bush walking.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : The Polish Route (5.10+)
By: B-Slim When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: This route is fantastic !!
Felt that P1 is very hard for the grade, i would give it at least 5.11 comparing to similar climb like OZ at Drug Dome.

Rap Beta:
As ppls suggested we looked for the rap station 200ft down left walking toward the gully. We did the rap with one 70M (i guess 4 raps). Be careful the last rap does not touch the ground need to down climb couple of steps.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ari at the first rap station.
Ari at the first rap station.



Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Deimos Cliff : Phobos (5.9+)
By: B-Slim When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: Decent from the top of the cliff is a pain in the AXX especially if you do a stupid mistake like me and you take your sandals instead of appropriate approach shoes for all the bushwalking.
If you are solid on 10s face moves, no need for any big gear IMHO the OW section is jogy and very secure.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Area : Daff Dome West Face : West Crack (5.9)
By: B-Slim When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: No need for big cams IMHO one #4 is enough.
Best way to go down is to rap as mention in Supertopo.
With a 70m rope you can do one rappel from the anchor near to the big tree mention in supertopo.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : St. Vitus' Dance (5.9)
By: B-Slim When: May 16, 2016

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Comments: Totally understand why ppls recommend double of #4 and #3 for the first pitch, but if you are comfortable with the 5.9 hand crack you can run this out pretty easy the crack is perfect size #2 C4 so very solid jam for me plus your feet will sink in.
So if you are short on gear like us don't be hesitant it goes with out double of #3 and #4. We have done it with one #3 and one #4, plus double of #2 and #.75 thought some nuts in the beginning.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : The Squamish Butt Face (5.9)
By: B-Slim When: May 15, 2016

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Traverse Pitch (P1) of Butt Light
Traverse Pitch (P1) of Butt Light



Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Photo
By: B-Slim When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: classic mistake of leader who doesn't think about the follower and put a higher piece to avoid potential swing or unpleasant feeling of rope pulling you toward left while the climber has to go upright.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : The Ultimate Everything (5.10-)
By: B-Slim When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: We did this a Friday 13 May :D. We started by Banana Peel then Boomstick Crack to reach the upper part of Apron Forest. After walking up and heading toward the gully we found the static lines to cross the Gully. The start of climb is very easy to spot look for the first low bolt after walking under a short roof.
All the belay station are bolted beside the last 10- variation exit so you can't get lost. The line is more than cool for the range of 9 climber. This could be linked with St Vitus Danc... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter
By: B-Slim When: Apr 17, 2016

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Comments: GPS coordinates for the parking
38.113142, -109.638833 or 38°06'47.3"N 109°38'19.8"W
You can see it via google maps as well goo.gl/maps/u2t8ZCbYrTx.

Rock Climbing Photo: The view when you are starting the hike
The view when you are starting the hike



Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: B-Slim When: Mar 21, 2013

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Comments: Nice route overall. We did a wrong traverse up on p3 which leads to a harder p4. We had to pass a kind of roof, which fun. There is chalk in the route :D Anyone know about this variant?