REI Community

Member Since: Jun 2, 2006
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact md3

Point Rank: # 10,096
Total Points: 45

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has md3 been climbing?

Personal: Lives in Flagstaff, AZ 86001, 52 years old, Male
Favorite Climbs: none specified
Other Interests: none specified
Personal/Favorite web site: none specified
Likes to climb: Trad, Sport climbs
Trad:  Leads 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Follows 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport:  Leads 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  Follows 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ice:  Leads WI5  Follows WI5
More information:
In alpine climbing where speed is safety I have always used the traditional approach of avoiding setting anchors whenever possible. This means stance belays and often hip or shoulder belays for the second. (Device belays for the leader.) On many routes you can go faster stopping short of full rope lengths to take advantage of stance belay opportunities than you can going the full rope length and setting anchors. Of course, this all depends on the terrain, and sometimes you can't get good stance belays, so you have to set anchors and then it makes sense to go as far as possible each pitch. But when you can forgo the anchors and just do hip or shoulder belays for the second, you can switch back and forth into fourth classing easier terrain more quickly, and move faster overall. Anyway- that’s my approach.
Photo Albums by md3    
Rock Climbing Photo: me and my dog

me and my dog
1 photo
Rock Climbing Photo: me at jacks canyon

4 photos
Rock Climbing Photo: access

mystery area
1 photo
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