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Member Since: Oct 23, 2007
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Max Tepfer
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Point Rank: # 458
Total Points: 1,625

113 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Max Tepfer been climbing?










Contributions


All 778 | Routes 87 | Areas 12 | Approach Trails | Photos 115 | Page Improvements | Comments 157 | Posts 217 | Stars 165 | Ratings 25
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Wyoming : Jackson Hole : Rock Springs Buttress : Rasberry Arete (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Beautiful climbing in a beautiful position. Much easier (like maybe a letter grade) with chalk on the holds.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Sidewalk Chalk (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 18, 2017

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Comments: Super fun variation! I forgot to bring gear for the top and grabbed On the Road for the very last hard move to the pod. Felt 12a-ish that way. It would be pretty contrived to avoid the hand jam as the sequence orients your body such that the crack is right there.


Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Wild Iris : The Erratic : Rodeo queen (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 4, 2017

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Comments: Bones' comment may be due to the fact that the line overlay in the latest guide is incorrect. Going out the gut of the main roof (as is indicated in the photo) is 5.14. This thing definitely goes. (but felt a little stiff for the grade, though I'm bad at roofs) Make sure you step right after clipping the 4th bolt.


Location: Wyoming : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Omega Buttress : Omega Crack (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Aug 22, 2017

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Comments: This thing is super fun! Not sure about extra rattly hand sizes. The only doubles we had were #1 C4s. (used both) Didn't place the 3 at all. The cracks are pretty poddy and varied and you can usually make something else work.


Location: Washington : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Thin Red Line (Free Version... (5.12)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jul 31, 2017

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Comments: Mike, I think the reason there are so many bolts on the first 5.12 pitch and none on the second was to maintain the character of the original aid line. (not that folks actually climb this as a proper aid climb anymore) The first pitch is a free variation while the second follows the original line of ascent. Also, I'd disagree that most people TR or pinkpoint the crux. When I sent, I went up to the anchor between each burn, cleaned the pitch, and ultimately redpointed. I'm guessing a... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Freeway (5.11c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jul 25, 2017

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Comments: Based on Colin's editorial, we elected for the traditional finish. A few thoughts:

Firstly, unless I misunderstood things, the fastest finish shares the last two bolts with the expressway variation. These are the two bolts that everyone has been talking about having ledgefall potential. Many meters into a lead this makes sense. Belaying at the huge ledge below what is the first bolt of the classic finish, it's totally fine.

Secondly, the 11a thin pitch is a little heady and harder ... more >>


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Tempituous (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: I had a blast climbing this route. My one complaint is that the location first bolt on the 3rd pitch makes no sense to me. It's not near the holds, increases rope drag, and runs the rope back to the belay in such a way that it's directly underneath you when you're doing the hardest moves. It's probably not a big deal, but it felt super likely that I'd catch it/land on it if I fell off the crux right there. It would be easy to solve all of these problems by moving it a few... more >>


Location: Washington : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Freedom or Death (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jul 13, 2017

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Comments: Stellar route. I don't know if I'd call the climbing on P4 11+. I thought it was significantly easier than the crux on P2. Might be a case of grade inflation due to people being gripped by the pro?


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : French's Dome
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 30, 2017

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Comments: This crag is super fun, but the hardware seems pretty janky. I only did a handful 5.11 and 12-, but the theme of the day was rusty bolts that were varying degrees of uninspiring. Maybe I just don't spend enough time climbing in wet climates, but it seems like we can do better...


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Tim (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 28, 2017

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Comments: Fun route! It was a little dusty today and I suspect some of the holds won't last the test of time, but overall it was super enjoyable movement on mostly good rock. For the most part, the holds are a lot more positive than many of the other LG 5.12s.

There's an optional finger sized placement somewhere in the first few bolts, but its super unnecessary. (basically you pull into a great stance and have to do 2 more easy moves to the next bolt that could be protected with a yellow alien-... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Johnny and the Mellonheads (5.12b R)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 24, 2017

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Comments: This thing is incredible! It's easy to hang a rope on it by traversing in from the Morning Star anchor to try moves/suss gear. That being said, it protects pretty well for an R rated route and wouldn't be unreasonable to try and onsight with the right gear. The runouts come high enough up on the route that there's really good gear below the string of small stuff that will hold the 40 footer if the small stuff pulls. Ballnuts are crucial as are RPs. It's also worth bringing a ... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : The Guillotine (5.10) : Photo
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: Anyone know what the deal with this rope is? I saw it up there the other day. Didn't look like it was getting used.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Rightway (5.11+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 16, 2017

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Comments: Adventure spoiler: hand traverse at the horizontal and bring more tips than finger sized gear. Super fun, a little licheny, and atypical for Trout. This thing feels like hard granite liebacking.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Daytime Drama (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 6, 2017

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Comments: Best 11d at Smith.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Latin Lover (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: May 31, 2017

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Comments: Definitely less than vertical.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Trout Creek
By: Max Tepfer When: May 15, 2017

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Comments: Word came in from the BLM today that Trout Creek is now partially open for the season. The south (original) approach trail is closed as is all climbing and hiking south (climber's right) of the Gold Rush area. (Gold Rush is open, Alchemy, Pan Handlin', and Midas Touch are closed) In short the vast majority of climbing is good to go and we should only walk up there via the steeper trail that climbs directly to the northern end.

The BLM also confirmed today that the eagles have two ne... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : Lost in Space (5.10b/c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Apr 18, 2017

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Comments: After hearing rumors of dangerously loose rock on P4, I rapped in and did some cleaning. There is certainly loose rock if you stray from the bolted line, (there's less of it now) but if you were pulling on the flakes I removed, you were doing it wrong. The bolted line is almost entirely clean with only two small edges that I could see as being suspect. If you get scared and gripped and try to wander off route to avoid a harder move, expect to climb some choss. Better to j... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Resuscitation (5.12c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Apr 14, 2017

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Comments: This is the best bolted route I've done in the Gorge to date. It's also pretty darn friendly for Smith Rock 12c. (though you do have to punch it through the crux...)


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : Freedom's Just Another Word... (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Apr 13, 2017

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Comments: I went up and cleaned the most suspect of the blocks on pitches 3 and 5. There's still a hollow-ish block on pitch 3 (Josh's microwave) that I couldn't get to budge despite some heavy-handed persuading with a pry-bar. It might have gone if I'd also had a hammer. Regardless, it seems pretty well attached for what we're asking of it. Maybe we can try again after another decade of freeze-thaw.

T... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (e) Western Ship - River Fa... : Time's Up (5.13a/b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 30, 2017

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Comments: Pretty sure I only pulled on one slopey crimp on the whole route and overall thought the route was actually a pretty fun project. The 11+ for the start given in the Watt's guide is a joke. Easily the hardest individual moves are in the first couple of bolts.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Pro Life (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 28, 2017

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Comments: This rout is rad, but it's essentially a whole lot of (good) 5.7 climbing to short V4 boulder problem. (granted there's a 5.10 crux down low) Fun if you're up there anyway, but not sure I'd make a mission just for this pitch.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : The Velvet Tongue (5.12+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 28, 2017

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Comments: I had a harder time with getting back in than out. Getting out is relatively simple tech stemming. (definitely not a dyno) Getting back in is wild.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : Twixt Cradle and Stone (5.10d)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 28, 2017

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Comments: This route is easily rapped with a 70. We had to do a little down climb on an easy ramp on the second rappel, but you could avoid this with simple shenanigans.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : Velvet Revolver (5.11b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 27, 2017

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Comments: This route is everything you could possibly hope it to be. The .11b pitch is pretty friendly (soft) for the grade and you need an 80 (or do ~25' of simuling) to link pitches one and two. The 'steep' crack should really be called steep-er. It's basically vertical climbing, it just feels steep because it's in Vegas. Descent via Twixt Cradle and Stone went smoothly with a 70m. (Sterling) The second r... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Unfinished Symphony (First ... (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 18, 2017

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Comments: Fun route! I thought the liebacking past the second bolt was as hard as the upper crux. I'd say the real crux is hanging out to place gear that you feel good about climbing above in the soft rock. Pretty approachable movement-wise for Smith Rock 12b. (as compared to Full Magic Light, Energy Crisis, Latest Rage, Watt's Totts, Vision, et. al.)

The bolts are overdue for an update. Also the fixed pin seems like it could get removed given that it gets clip... more >>


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