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Member Since: Oct 23, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Max Tepfer
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Point Rank: # 419
Total Points: 1,495

101 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Max Tepfer been climbing?










Contributions


All 730 | Routes 85 | Areas 12 | Photos 108 | Page Improvements | Comments 143 | Posts 210 | Stars 152 | Ratings 20
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : Lost in Space (5.10b/c)
By: Max Tepfer When: 5 days ago

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Comments: After hearing rumors of dangerously loose rock on P4, I rapped in and did some cleaning. There is certainly loose rock if you stray from the bolted line, (there's less of it now) but if you were pulling on the flakes I removed, you were doing it wrong. The bolted line is almost entirely clean with only two small edges that I could see as being suspect. If you get scared and gripped and try to wander off route to avoid a harder move, expect to climb some choss. Better to j... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Resuscitation (5.12c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Apr 14, 2017

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Comments: This is the best bolted route I've done in the Gorge to date. It's also pretty darn friendly for Smith Rock 12c. (though you do have to punch it through the crux...)


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : Freedom's Just Another Word... (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Apr 13, 2017

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Comments: I went up and cleaned the most suspect of the blocks on pitches 3 and 5. There's still a hollow-ish block on pitch 3 (Josh's microwave) that I couldn't get to budge despite some heavy-handed persuading with a pry-bar. It might have gone if I'd also had a hammer. Regardless, it seems pretty well attached for what we're asking of it. Maybe we can try again after another decade of freeze-thaw.

T... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (e) Western Ship - River Fa... : Time's Up (5.13a/b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 30, 2017

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Comments: Pretty sure I only pulled on one slopey crimp on the whole route and overall thought the route was actually a pretty fun project. The 11+ for the start given in the Watt's guide is a joke. Easily the hardest individual moves are in the first couple of bolts.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Pro Life (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 28, 2017

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Comments: This rout is rad, but it's essentially a whole lot of (good) 5.7 climbing to short V4 boulder problem. (granted there's a 5.10 crux down low) Fun if you're up there anyway, but not sure I'd make a mission just for this pitch.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : The Velvet Tongue (5.12+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 28, 2017

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Comments: I had a harder time with getting back in than out. Getting out is relatively simple tech stemming. (definitely not a dyno) Getting back in is wild.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : Twixt Cradle and Stone (5.10d)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 28, 2017

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Comments: This route is easily rapped with a 70. We had to do a little down climb on an easy ramp on the second rappel, but you could avoid this with simple shenanigans.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : Velvet Revolver (5.11b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 27, 2017

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Comments: This route is everything you could possibly hope it to be. The .11b pitch is pretty friendly (soft) for the grade and you need an 80 (or do ~25' of simuling) to link pitches one and two. The 'steep' crack should really be called steep-er. It's basically vertical climbing, it just feels steep because it's in Vegas. Descent via Twixt Cradle and Stone went smoothly with a 70m. (Sterling) The second r... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Unfinished Symphony (First ... (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 18, 2017

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Comments: Fun route! I thought the liebacking past the second bolt was as hard as the upper crux. I'd say the real crux is hanging out to place gear that you feel good about climbing above in the soft rock. Pretty approachable movement-wise for Smith Rock 12b. (as compared to Full Magic Light, Energy Crisis, Latest Rage, Watt's Totts, Vision, et. al.)

The bolts are overdue for an update. Also the fixed pin seems like it could get removed given that it gets clip... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Watts Totts (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 18, 2017

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Comments: People love to hate on this route, (I used to be one) but it's mostly because they're bad at tech vert. It's pretty fun if you like that style.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (5) Southern Tip : South Park (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 4, 2017

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Comments: Probably the best 12a arete in the park. It feels like an easier version of Last Waltz with comparable movement and rock quality. For sure worth the walk.

I thought that the hardest move (certainly hardest to read) was getting to the pin. Also, WTF? Why is there a fixed pin on a sport climb? I'd vote that it get yanked and replaced by a bolt. On that note, the second bolt seems a little low. (it's only 3-4 feet above the first) I whipped moving to t... more >>


Location: South America : Argentina : Patagonia : Whillans-Cochrane (5.9 WI3 M4)
By: Max Tepfer When: Feb 24, 2017

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Comments: Fun route. A note on the final bits of the descent: (exiting the ramp) We had beta from friends that it was possible to continue rapping fall-line and avoiding having to reverse the steep snow traverse late in the day with the prospect of overhead hazard. We opted for this and I wouldn't recommend it. The raps are very straight-foward, but at the bottom of the final rappel, you're transitioning into glacier travel underneath a potentially day-ruining s... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Cry Some More (Extension) (5.11a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Feb 10, 2017

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Comments: If you're short on draws, it's not too bad to bump them up the extension. There are also gear placements available if you've got any rack leftover from Cry of the Poor.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Powder in the Eyes (5.12+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jan 15, 2017

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Comments: A good lesson in standing on your feet. It's not too bad w/o the long draw. It's certainly a long way down, but you're on good holds, so it's unlikely that you'll blow it. Crux felt like V4 to a good shake to V5. The top is pretty easy, but hard to read and the rock gets slightly crumbly.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Muffin Top (5.10)
By: Max Tepfer When: Nov 9, 2016

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Comments: Not sure why this is 5.10 and Redside is 10+. This feels like honest 5.10 offwidthing and Redside feels like 5.9 wide with a 5.10 approach. Used Chuck's rack beta (minus the #4) and it was perfect. Took the small piece for the top and placed it, but wouldn't again.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Straightway (5.11+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Nov 4, 2016

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Comments: Another neglected classic! The crux felt like proper granite tech stemming. Super fun. I brought two gray mastercams and used both. (probably could've done without the second) The holds were just clean enough to send, but could use either some more traffic or a quick brushing.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : European vacation (5.11a R)
By: Max Tepfer When: Nov 3, 2016

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Comments: (Disclosure: I haven't ever done this route)

It's probably unwise to ever climb this on a weekend. (unless it's the dead of winter and the park is empty) This route is the definition of Smith Rock adventure choss and is perched right above two very popular single pitch crags. Typically it's up to the people below to choose not to climb underneath objective hazard, (ie: YOU if you choose to do this climb) but this ... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : The Martian Chronicles (5.12-)
By: Max Tepfer When: Nov 2, 2016

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Comments: Sooo good! The movement on the crux is amazing and the sustained tips/stemming above is super fun too. The start is certainly heads up, but I was able to place a great RP from the 'ground' that held and mostly kept me off the talus. (My knee brushed the pillar and scraped me up a bit, but no real damage done) Regardless, it's a little real right there, so be careful. This thing should get done more as it has one of the best finger/ti... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Middle Cathedral Rock : Border Country (5.12c R)
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Outstanding climb! I like that the topo gives enough information to get you up the route, but is inaccurate enough to keep you on your toes and make you actually think.

I think tallmark's options for P4 just confuse the situation. The topo is pretty clear and relatively easy to follow. You're supposed to do 'Option 1.' If I'm understanding and remembering it all correctly, you just do what the... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 10 - The Cookie Cliff : The Elevator Shaft (5.8 R)
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 22, 2016

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Comments: As far as chimneys go, this is very well protected and R seems a bit unwarranted. There is for sure some choss, but it's deep in the back and easy to avoid. Fun, worthwhile route. We got down with a single 70.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Leaning Tower Area : Fifi Buttress : Romulan Freebird (5.12c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 16, 2016

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Comments: Stellar route! Climbed the first six before rapping to get off before the rain. +1 for 3x purple tcu/green c3. Many of these pitches would link logically. For P5, face climbing left past two bolts before turning the corner (the alternative Luke described above) is for sure preferred. Lastly the grades of the 5.11 pitches felt way off for me:
P1-height dependent 12a (easier if you're tall)
P2-11a
P3-Hollow 10d
P4-12a/b
P5-10d
P6-12b/c (much harder if you have big fingers)


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Reservation Blues (5.12+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: Chuck, I feel like a bit of an ass-I looked at an old rack photo and discovered that I accidentally omitted 2x green aliens from my gear beta above. That would bring the total up to 10 blue-sized pieces for the route. Sorry for any inadvertent sandbagging!


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 4, 2016

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Comments: It's possible to rappel from the two bolt anchor on the right side of the floor of the Mouth (just below the beginning of the 'panic point pitch') back to the base of the route with a single 70m. The rope pull is hard, but doable and facilitates rapping with a single. As of last week, it was equipped with two quick links, but could use two more. If I make it back up there, I'll fix it up.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face : Pioneer Route (5.7 C0)
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 4, 2016

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Comments: It's possible to rappel from the two bolt anchor on the right side of the floor of the Mouth (just below the beginning of the 'panic point pitch') back to the base of the route with a single 70m. The rope pull is hard, but doable and facilitates rapping with a single. As of last week, it was equipped with two quick links, but could use two more. If I make it back up there, I'll fix it up.


Location: Oregon : Oregon Volcanoes : Mt. Washington : West Ridge (5.8)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: Best alpine rock route in Oregon no contest. Having done both, the south side approach to the notch is preferred. An alternative approach to this is to stay on the PCT until you're all the way around the south side of the topographical extension of the West Ridge and follow that drainage up through open woods and talus until at the base of the ridge. More mileage, but minimal off trail travel and very easy walking overall.

There's really no need for ... more >>


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