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Member Since: Oct 23, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Max Tepfer
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Point Rank: # 431
Total Points: 1,520

107 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Max Tepfer been climbing?










Contributions


All 758 | Routes 86 | Areas 12 | Photos 111 | Page Improvements | Comments 152 | Posts 217 | Stars 159 | Ratings 21
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Tempituous (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: I had a blast climbing this route. My one complaint is that the location first bolt on the 3rd pitch makes no sense to me. It's not near the holds, increases rope drag, and runs the rope back to the belay in such a way that it's directly underneath you when you're doing the hardest moves. It's probably not a big deal, but it felt super likely that I'd catch it/land on it if I fell off the crux right there. It would be easy to solve all of these problems by moving it a few... more >>


Location: Washington : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Freedom or Death (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jul 13, 2017

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Comments: Stellar route. I don't know if I'd call the climbing on P4 11+. I thought it was significantly easier than the crux on P2. Might be a case of grade inflation due to people being gripped by the pro?


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : French's Dome
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 30, 2017

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Comments: This crag is super fun, but the hardware seems pretty janky. I only did a handful 5.11 and 12-, but the theme of the day was rusty bolts that were varying degrees of uninspiring. Maybe I just don't spend enough time climbing in wet climates, but it seems like we can do better...


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Tim (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 28, 2017

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Comments: Fun route! It was a little dusty today and I suspect some of the holds won't last the test of time, but overall it was super enjoyable movement on mostly good rock. For the most part, the holds are a lot more positive than many of the other LG 5.12s.

There's an optional finger sized placement somewhere in the first few bolts, but its super unnecessary. (basically you pull into a great stance and have to do 2 more easy moves to the next bolt that could be protected with a yellow alien-... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Johnny and the Mellonheads (5.12b R)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 24, 2017

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Comments: This thing is incredible! It's easy to hang a rope on it by traversing in from the Morning Star anchor to try moves/suss gear. That being said, it protects pretty well for an R rated route and wouldn't be unreasonable to try and onsight with the right gear. The runouts come high enough up on the route that there's really good gear below the string of small stuff that will hold the 40 footer if the small stuff pulls. Ballnuts are crucial as are RPs. It's also worth bringing a ... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : The Guillotine (5.10) : Photo
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: Anyone know what the deal with this rope is? I saw it up there the other day. Didn't look like it was getting used.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Rightway (5.11+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 16, 2017

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Comments: Adventure spoiler: hand traverse at the horizontal and bring more tips than finger sized gear. Super fun, a little licheny, and atypical for Trout. This thing feels like hard granite liebacking.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Daytime Drama (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 6, 2017

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Comments: Best 11d at Smith.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Latin Lover (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: May 31, 2017

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Comments: Definitely less than vertical.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Trout Creek
By: Max Tepfer When: May 15, 2017

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Comments: Word came in from the BLM today that Trout Creek is now partially open for the season. The south (original) approach trail is closed as is all climbing and hiking south (climber's right) of the Gold Rush area. (Gold Rush is open, Alchemy, Pan Handlin', and Midas Touch are closed) In short the vast majority of climbing is good to go and we should only walk up there via the steeper trail that climbs directly to the northern end.

The BLM also confirmed today that the eagles have two ne... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : Lost in Space (5.10b/c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Apr 18, 2017

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Comments: After hearing rumors of dangerously loose rock on P4, I rapped in and did some cleaning. There is certainly loose rock if you stray from the bolted line, (there's less of it now) but if you were pulling on the flakes I removed, you were doing it wrong. The bolted line is almost entirely clean with only two small edges that I could see as being suspect. If you get scared and gripped and try to wander off route to avoid a harder move, expect to climb some choss. Better to j... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Resuscitation (5.12c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Apr 14, 2017

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Comments: This is the best bolted route I've done in the Gorge to date. It's also pretty darn friendly for Smith Rock 12c. (though you do have to punch it through the crux...)


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : Freedom's Just Another Word... (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Apr 13, 2017

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Comments: I went up and cleaned the most suspect of the blocks on pitches 3 and 5. There's still a hollow-ish block on pitch 3 (Josh's microwave) that I couldn't get to budge despite some heavy-handed persuading with a pry-bar. It might have gone if I'd also had a hammer. Regardless, it seems pretty well attached for what we're asking of it. Maybe we can try again after another decade of freeze-thaw.

T... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (e) Western Ship - River Fa... : Time's Up (5.13a/b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 30, 2017

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Comments: Pretty sure I only pulled on one slopey crimp on the whole route and overall thought the route was actually a pretty fun project. The 11+ for the start given in the Watt's guide is a joke. Easily the hardest individual moves are in the first couple of bolts.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Pro Life (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 28, 2017

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Comments: This rout is rad, but it's essentially a whole lot of (good) 5.7 climbing to short V4 boulder problem. (granted there's a 5.10 crux down low) Fun if you're up there anyway, but not sure I'd make a mission just for this pitch.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : The Velvet Tongue (5.12+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 28, 2017

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Comments: I had a harder time with getting back in than out. Getting out is relatively simple tech stemming. (definitely not a dyno) Getting back in is wild.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : Twixt Cradle and Stone (5.10d)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 28, 2017

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Comments: This route is easily rapped with a 70. We had to do a little down climb on an easy ramp on the second rappel, but you could avoid this with simple shenanigans.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : Velvet Revolver (5.11b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 27, 2017

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Comments: This route is everything you could possibly hope it to be. The .11b pitch is pretty friendly (soft) for the grade and you need an 80 (or do ~25' of simuling) to link pitches one and two. The 'steep' crack should really be called steep-er. It's basically vertical climbing, it just feels steep because it's in Vegas. Descent via Twixt Cradle and Stone went smoothly with a 70m. (Sterling) The second r... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Unfinished Symphony (First ... (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 18, 2017

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Comments: Fun route! I thought the liebacking past the second bolt was as hard as the upper crux. I'd say the real crux is hanging out to place gear that you feel good about climbing above in the soft rock. Pretty approachable movement-wise for Smith Rock 12b. (as compared to Full Magic Light, Energy Crisis, Latest Rage, Watt's Totts, Vision, et. al.)

The bolts are overdue for an update. Also the fixed pin seems like it could get removed given that it gets clip... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Watts Totts (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 18, 2017

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Comments: People love to hate on this route, (I used to be one) but it's mostly because they're bad at tech vert. It's pretty fun if you like that style.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (5) Southern Tip : South Park (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 4, 2017

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Comments: Probably the best 12a arete in the park. It feels like an easier version of Last Waltz with comparable movement and rock quality. For sure worth the walk.

I thought that the hardest move (certainly hardest to read) was getting to the pin. Also, WTF? Why is there a fixed pin on a sport climb? I'd vote that it get yanked and replaced by a bolt. On that note, the second bolt seems a little low. (it's only 3-4 feet above the first) I whipped moving to t... more >>


Location: South America : Argentina : Santa Cruz : Chalten Massif : Whillans-Cochrane (5.9 WI3 M4)
By: Max Tepfer When: Feb 24, 2017

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Comments: Fun route. A note on the final bits of the descent: (exiting the ramp) We had beta from friends that it was possible to continue rapping fall-line and avoiding having to reverse the steep snow traverse late in the day with the prospect of overhead hazard. We opted for this and I wouldn't recommend it. The raps are very straight-foward, but at the bottom of the final rappel, you're transitioning into glacier travel underneath a potentially day-ruining s... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Cry Some More (Extension) (5.11a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Feb 10, 2017

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Comments: If you're short on draws, it's not too bad to bump them up the extension. There are also gear placements available if you've got any rack leftover from Cry of the Poor.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Powder in the Eyes (5.12+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jan 15, 2017

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Comments: A good lesson in standing on your feet. It's not too bad w/o the long draw. It's certainly a long way down, but you're on good holds, so it's unlikely that you'll blow it. Crux felt like V4 to a good shake to V5. The top is pretty easy, but hard to read and the rock gets slightly crumbly.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Muffin Top (5.10)
By: Max Tepfer When: Nov 9, 2016

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Comments: Not sure why this is 5.10 and Redside is 10+. This feels like honest 5.10 offwidthing and Redside feels like 5.9 wide with a 5.10 approach. Used Chuck's rack beta (minus the #4) and it was perfect. Took the small piece for the top and placed it, but wouldn't again.


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