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Member Since: Oct 23, 2007
Last Visit: 20 mins ago
Contact Max Tepfer

Max Tepfer
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Point Rank: # 426
Total Points: 1,699
Last Year: 76
Last 30 Days: 2
100 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Max Tepfer been climbing?










Contributions


All 683 | Routes 85 | Areas 12 | Photos 108 | Page Improvements | Comments 129 | Posts 194 | Stars 140 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Muffin Top (5.10)
By: Max Tepfer When: Nov 9, 2016

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Comments: Not sure why this is 5.10 and Redside is 10+. This feels like honest 5.10 offwidthing and Redside feels like 5.9 wide with a 5.10 approach.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Straightway (5.11+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Nov 4, 2016

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Comments: Another neglected classic! The crux felt like proper granite tech stemming. Super fun. I brought two gray mastercams and used both. (probably could've done without the second) The holds were just clean enough to send, but could use either some more traffic or a quick brushing.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : European vacation (5.11a R)
By: Max Tepfer When: Nov 3, 2016

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Comments: (Disclosure: I haven't ever done this route)

It's probably unwise to ever climb this on a weekend. (unless it's the dead of winter and the park is empty) This route is the definition of Smith Rock adventure choss and is perched right above two very popular single pitch crags. Typically it's up to the people below to choose not to climb underneath objective hazard, (ie: YOU if you choose to do this climb) but this ... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : The Martian Chronicles (5.12-)
By: Max Tepfer When: Nov 2, 2016

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Comments: Sooo good! The movement on the crux is amazing and the sustained tips/stemming above is super fun too. The start is certainly heads up, but I was able to place a great RP from the 'ground' that held and mostly kept me off the talus. (My knee brushed the pillar and scraped me up a bit, but no real damage done) Regardless, it's a little real right there, so be careful. This thing should get done more as it has one of the best finger/ti... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Middle Cathedral Rock : Border Country (5.12c R)
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Outstanding climb! I like that the topo gives enough information to get you up the route, but is inaccurate enough to keep you on your toes and make you actually think.

I think tallmark's options for P4 just confuse the situation. The topo is pretty clear and relatively easy to follow. You're supposed to do 'Option 1.' If I'm understanding and remembering it all correctly, you just do what the... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 10 - The Cookie Cliff : The Elevator Shaft (5.8 R)
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 22, 2016

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Comments: As far as chimneys go, this is very well protected and R seems a bit unwarranted. There is for sure some choss, but it's deep in the back and easy to avoid. Fun, worthwhile route. We got down with a single 70.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Leaning Tower Area : Fifi Buttress : Romulan Freebird (5.12c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 16, 2016

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Comments: Stellar route! Climbed the first six before rapping to get off before the rain. +1 for 3x purple tcu/green c3. Many of these pitches would link logically. For P5, face climbing left past two bolts before turning the corner (the alternative Luke described above) is for sure preferred. Lastly the grades of the 5.11 pitches felt way off for me:
P1-height dependent 12a (easier if you're tall)
P2-11a
P3-Hollow 10d
P4-12a/b
P5-10d
P6-12b/c (much harder if you have big fingers)


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Reservation Blues (5.12+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: Chuck, I feel like a bit of an ass-I looked at an old rack photo and discovered that I accidentally omitted 2x green aliens from my gear beta above. That would bring the total up to 10 blue-sized pieces for the route. Sorry for any inadvertent sandbagging!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 4, 2016

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Comments: It's possible to rappel from the two bolt anchor on the right side of the floor of the Mouth (just below the beginning of the 'panic point pitch') back to the base of the route with a single 70m. The rope pull is hard, but doable and facilitates rapping with a single. As of last week, it was equipped with two quick links, but could use two more. If I make it back up there, I'll fix it up.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face : Pioneer Route (5.7 C0)
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 4, 2016

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Comments: It's possible to rappel from the two bolt anchor on the right side of the floor of the Mouth (just below the beginning of the 'panic point pitch') back to the base of the route with a single 70m. The rope pull is hard, but doable and facilitates rapping with a single. As of last week, it was equipped with two quick links, but could use two more. If I make it back up there, I'll fix it up.


Location: OR : Oregon Volcanoes : Mt. Washington : West Ridge (5.8)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: Best alpine rock route in Oregon no contest. Having done both, the south side approach to the notch is preferred. An alternative approach to this is to stay on the PCT until you're all the way around the south side of the topographical extension of the West Ridge and follow that drainage up through open woods and talus until at the base of the ridge. More mileage, but minimal off trail travel and very easy walking overall.

There's really no need for ... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Cougar Cliffs : The Dark Side (5.10-)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 20, 2016

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Comments: I've also led a variation to this that starts one groove to the right and traverses left under the prominent roof into the drawn line. Fun and reasonably protected climbing. It's nice because it avoids the dirty squeeze and adds some more interesting climbing in the process.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: There isn't any free camping or overnight parking. It's a paid BLM campground without water and with bathrooms, picnic tables, and fire rings. blm.gov/or/districts/prinevill...

The timing of the approach is subjective. It usually takes me about 30 minutes up the North Trail, but if you're carrying a lot of gear and don't like walking uphill, and go the long way, it wouldn&@PO... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Positive Vibrations (5.11a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 16, 2016

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Comments: For maximum fun and minimum belaying: link 1 and 2, 3 and 4, (either to intermediate rappel anchor in chimney or a bit of simuling to higher anchor) and 5 and 6. Pitch out 7 and 8.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Domes : Calaveras Dome : Silk Road (High Times) (5.11 PG13)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: This route is Mega! Awesome corner climbing interspersed with intricate face climbing on perfect rock. Get on it!

Gear: Double rack is completely adequate as long as you have and use stoppers. The #4 got used on the 5.9 pitch and that was it. Probably best left at home. I took triples of 0.3-0.5 up the crux corner and finished with an absurd amount of gear on my harness.

Grade: The two face cruxes are for sure harder than anything else on the route, but despite what'@SEMIC... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Sunspot Dihedral (5.11b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 9, 2016

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Comments: The 11b crux is way harder than anything else on the route. Given its location on the pitch and the large ledge right above it, it's a good candidate for leaving the rack at the belay and tagging it up after getting through the crux. Also, the pitch after this is mid 5.10, not 11a. I have no idea where that grade came from. It's locker fingers in a corner with feet...


Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector : Chapstick (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Aug 21, 2016

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Comments: Kinda meh. Sharp and hard to read, but cool rock and keeping one's cool is certainly rewarded. Basically a 10 bolt exercise in body position and pacing.


Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Mothership Sector : Mothership (5.12c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Aug 21, 2016

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Comments: Fun route. I'd say the crux detracts from the overall quality, but everything else is four star! Kinda tweaky cranking on the pinky. (and I like to think my pinkies are pretty strong!) Also probably way harder if you can't reach the rail while standing in the bucket. I'm 5'9" w/neutral ape index and could just touch the bottom of the rail.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Cool Wall
By: Max Tepfer When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: It's great that the Cool Wall is being put on MP, but (this is purely speculative) I doubt Jeff gave permission. This is one more reason that you should only post routes that you've climbed. In this case it's a little funky. The guidebook used to be basically free and now that it costs a little money, we probably all feel somewhat entitled to access the information for free. Ironically, we do have 'free'... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine L... (5.12-)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: This thing is stellar! (not surprising, given that pretty much everything's really good up there) Pretty friendly for 12-, (but not suggesting a downgrade) especially if you're decent at stemming. As Kerwin said, steadily easier cruxes interspersed with awesome rests make this an atypical route for the crag, but it's certainly a must do!

(didn't use stoppers and it was fine)


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Voyage of the Cowdog (5.9-)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 18, 2016

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Comments: I'd agree that C.jake's concerns about rock quality are largely unfounded/their reaction is out of proportion to reality. That being said, many of the holds on the first and third pitches are a little creaky and/or have hairline fractures all around them.

More importantly, I feel like this route merits an R rating. The run outs are on super-easy climbing, but there are certainly points on the (slabby) first and third pitches that the leader could take... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Just Say Yes (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: This one's probably closer to bouldery 12b. It's got 2-3 powerful sequences interspersed with good rest followed by one really angry move. After that there are still some more punchy sequences to get to the chains. You can pretty much always stop and get it back, but the movement is overall much more sustained and powerful than the various other routes of the grade.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face : Spank the Monkey (5.12a PG13) : Photo
By: Max Tepfer When: May 20, 2016

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Comments: FWIW, that's the Upper East Face via Spank. (which is barely pictured)


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Full Court Press (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: May 20, 2016

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Comments: Stellar route. Contrary to the above, I found numerous good shakes interspersed between the various cruxes. No hands-off stances, but plenty good enough to get it all back. If you're doing the hard moves pumped, you're doing it wrong. While it goes without the a stick clip, it's nice to have. Maybe V1-2 with a poor landing.


Location: Europe : Norway : Senja
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: I thought about posting route details for the handful of climbs we did, but ultimately chose not to. One of the things that makes this place special is the limited amount of information and the adventurous climbing experience one can have as a result. In Senja, if you have a line on a photo, you have a lot of beta. It's a rare treat in this day and age to be able to approach this type of climbing in that style. If you're looking to head here and want more beta, feel free to PM me. (or get in... more >>


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