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Rock Climbing Photo: Figuring out the beta on The Alchemist


Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact matthewWallace

Point Rank: # 40
Total Points: 9,281
Last Year: 740
Last 30 Days: 4
57 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has matthewWallace been climbing?










Contributions


All 4573 | Routes 333 | Areas 55 | Photos 763 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 1296 | Posts 512 | Stars 1018 | Ratings 591
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: Thinking of checking out this area soon, what conditions should we expect to find the boulders in? Do people still climb here?


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : The Fire Tower : Burnout (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: A fun little problem that has some excitement every time you hit the flexing jug. The top half needs a good cleaning...


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : The Fire Tower : Jesus Every Time (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: This problem s fantastic. Really fun climbing linking good edges. It would see tons of ascents if it was at a busier climbing area. I didn't get the send due to a very mossy top-out, I plan on scrubbing it next time I am at the Fire Tower Boulders.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Barn Door Direct Direct (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: I highly recommend this climb. It is very different by Rumney's standards. I find most Rumney boulders are on the burly side, however this one is all about slow, controlled movement. It is a fun change of pace!


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : The Barn Ladder (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: A better name for this would be 'Barn Door Indirect" or 'The Barn Ladder'. Anyone have an objection to me changing the name to something that represents the climb a bit better?


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : The Ancients : Nature Boy (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: Finally got around to climbing this today. Although the holds are still a bit sharp in places the route climbs fairly well. It starts with fun tension-y movement on good holds to a large move to a jug. It would get another star if a tumble down the hill wasn't always in the back of your mind.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Governor Dick Park (aka Mou... : Beautiful Day : Finger Fun (V0)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: This climb looks like a blast!


Location: NH : WM: Waterville Valley : Welch and Dickie Area : Dickey Ledge : South America Wall : The Horcrux (5.13c)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: Nice work Lee! Good to see all that hard work and perseverance has paid off for you!!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Stained Glass Ceiling (5.11)
By: matthewWallace When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: I have always looked at this, going to have to get out and check it out!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Rainforest Boulder (Valley ... : Firecracker Arete (V3+)
By: matthewWallace When: May 7, 2015

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Comments: I climbed this route as Lanky describes. I agree with Christian, this thing is certainly harder than V3! A good climb though!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Pulse Wall : Toy Story (5.9) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: It is a really awesome finishing move!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Swirley Boulder : Jon's Arete (V8)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: I am not sure what that is for, it certainly seems there could be a direct start to the arete!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Swirley Boulder : Jon's Arete (V8)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: The climb that goes up the arete starts as for 'Jon's Arete' and after hitting the good hold that marks the end of the crux on Jon's, it busts right and heads up the arete. I don't think it has a name, its supposed to be in the v9-v10 range I believe, it really needs some cleaning before it is climbable.

The route that climbs the edges to the left s called Slash, i believe it goes at v6.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 23, 2015

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Comments: Hiked up and checked this out today, I agree it looks tough and is going to be tougher for taller folks, even with that possible disadvantage i am look forward to getting on it!


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 23, 2015

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Comments: The left side with all the curved flakes looks really cool! and the face to the left of that seems to have a couple possible lines in store!


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Mt. Lincoln : Lincoln's Throat (WI3) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: This is an awesome photo!


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : The Orange Arete Boulder : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Mark do you have plans to right up descriptions for these new routes at some point?


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Cool, it sounds pretty cool, when you guys send it let us know, I would love to try it!


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: This thing looks interesting! How hard you thinking it goes?


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Warmup Area : B Becca (V9)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: I was just looking at this the other day, looks hard man to pull onto the wall!! Nice work!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Crack Boulder Area : Crackhead Left (V5-6)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the heads up Ian, looking forward to getting back down there when it is dry!


Location: PA : South Central PA : Governor Dick Park (aka Mou... : Shamoo Area : Josh in the Box (V5-6)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: Man, I want your beta/strength if this thing feels casual for you!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Crack Boulder Area : Crackhead Left (V5-6)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: This line looks really cool, starting holds were wet today, looking forward to going back and climbing it!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Method Area : Methidone (V8)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: I have to agree with you Christian, I have not sent this yet but I must say this climb has awesome rock and climbs really well. Will get more than one star from me for sure!


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Beginner's Route (5.5)
By: matthewWallace When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: I have tried to pull that flake out multiple times over the last few years, with no success. Maybe the freeze thaw this year has finally made it possible, just be very careful as the landing area is very high traffic! Be best to have people keeping the walkway blocked while you pull it.


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