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Rock Climbing Photo: Figuring out the beta on The Alchemist


Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact matthewWallace

Point Rank: # 40
Total Points: 9,281
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has matthewWallace been climbing?










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All 4573 | Routes 333 | Areas 55 | Photos 763 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 1296 | Posts 512 | Stars 1018 | Ratings 591
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Conditions Boulder : Automated (V7-8) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: Are these the starting holds?


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Little Boy (V8)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 24, 2016

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Comments: There certainly are some hidden in plain sight undocumented climbs left to do! Good eye for this line!


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Little Boy (V8)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 23, 2016

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Comments: Sent this rig today. I end up compressing the whole thing and not using the crimps in the middle of the face for anything but feet. After figuring out and refining my beta I feel this is roughly v7, it compares to the difficulty of Deacon Variation and Metallic. However, I am tall, for shorter people it would certainly be harder, therefore I am giving it the grade of v7-8.

This is a fun line and should see more ascents.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Block : The Block Problem (V9-)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: Oh man, I knew it was only a matter of time for that hold! Was there any hold left behind? Looks like have to work on this line again!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Godzilla Boulders
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: I have some info and photo's I have started positing them and a bit more will be coming.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : Manlet (aka Little Boy Stan... (V3+)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 26, 2016

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Comments: Agreed, this is a good line it is own right, I thought a bit more like v3 though.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Little Boy (V8)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 26, 2016

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Comments: I would be interested to know what your foot beta was for the start and where you moved your left hand to for the first move.

I spent a little time trying it tonight and I found the first move very hard, but maybe being a big dude makes the scrunched up beginning harder as I felt like my knees where in my throat due to the low starting holds.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : Pound Back SDS (aka Peekabo... (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 26, 2016

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Comments: After climbing this route I have to agree with Christian. I can easily reach the starting hold for Pound Back with my right hand from the ground.

I agree that starting on the two underclings makes it a bit hard but I do not think it is an independent line. More like a variation to the start and should be listed as such. If pound back is a v2+, I would say this variation brings it to about v3 maybe soft v4.

Just my two cents.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Beede Falls Area : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: It is probably going to be in the v9 area, nobody is sure if it has seen an FA yet. The movement is amazing, on mostly solid rock. It will be a 4 star classic for sure.


Location: NH : Southern NH and Seacoast : Clough State Park
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 22, 2016

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Comments: How quickly does this place dry after rain?


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Cassius Boulder : Overhand Right (V2-3)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 16, 2016

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Comments: Not a bad climb, much easier than v2-3, possibly the easiest line on the boulder, about the same difficulty as 'Left Jab'. The holds could use a cleaning and the feet would be more secure with a good scrubbing.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Cassius Boulder : Left Jab (V1-2)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 16, 2016

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Comments: Hi Nick, I am curious you used the right side of the large crack?

This is a pretty fun line, it could use a bit more cleaning, however it serves as a good warm up.


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Streambed Boulders : Cup of Tea (V3 PG13)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 13, 2016

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Comments: Graham, do you mean move right to the arete and slab, wouldnt Provia be to the left?


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Arch Nemesis (V4+)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 13, 2016

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Comments: The first move is right hand to the hold the girls right foot is on in the photo.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Roadside Area : ... : The Mystic (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: I would love to give you the locals tour!


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Roadside Area : ... : The Mystic (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: Finally sent this rig yesterday, good conditions and some improved beta made it go. I would love for people to get on it and chime in on the grade! In my opinion this line is one of the best in the notch.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Ship's Prow Boulder : Kraken (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 1, 2016

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Comments: Glad you dig it Jake!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : The Wet Spot (V2)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 1, 2016

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Comments: As far as I know it has not been done, it is not listed in Bryce's guidebook and I have never heard anything about it. The slab around the other side looks awesome but would not want to fall off it!


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : Limbic (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 25, 2016

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Comments: As far as I know the line hasn't been down yet, where does the sit start begin?


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Minty Floss (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: Cool always fun to do something new out there, I will give it a shot next time I am at the pound.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : Limbic (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: Hi Brad the route to the right is Pound Back and starts just inside the little cave on a good sloper. I can't picture how the two aeries would come together... You climb it already? any photos?


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Minty Floss (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 23, 2016

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Comments: Is this just a low start into Randy Moss?


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Barn Door (V2)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: I dont think there is any trick beta, however if you do not have the beta just right, it will make it seem much harder than a v2!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Maceo (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: Interesting, I actually really enjoy this one move wonder! There is a foot, it is just high!


Location: CT : CT Bouldering : Bald Rock Basin : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: What route is this?


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