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Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact matthewWallace

Point Rank: # 45
Total Points: 7,840

57 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has matthewWallace been climbing?










Contributions


All 4597 | Routes 333 | Areas 55 | Photos 763 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 1304 | Posts 517 | Stars 1025 | Ratings 595
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Moat Boulder : Firestarter (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: 2 days ago

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Comments: DRusso - starting on the chalked jug to the right is just a variation. It would certainly change the grade starting there.


Location: New Hampshire : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Highlander Wall : Pretty Crack (5.9-)
By: matthewWallace When: May 14, 2017

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Comments: Hey Baldy, is this halfway between the Highlander Wall and the Pulpit Rock area?


Location: New Hampshire : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Highlander Wall : The Quickening (5.11d)
By: matthewWallace When: May 14, 2017

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Comments: This is a great climb, two very interesting and fun cruxes separated by a great rest. I look forward to coming back for the send. You should climb this route.


Location: New Hampshire : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Highlander Wall : Old Boys Club (5.11a)
By: matthewWallace When: May 13, 2017

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Comments: The only thing keeping this route from getting 4 stars in the less than exciting climbing between the two cruxes. The .11a intro is classic and the overhang at the top is tons of fun but the middle is so-so, regardless this is a must climb.

Also, I left two biners on the last two bolts in the roof, so after you pull the mantle you can reverse it, clip the two biners and lower off, instead of having to hard thread through 3 rap rings on a single bolt.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Ginseng for Genius (V9-10)
By: matthewWallace When: May 13, 2017

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Comments: Thanks for the input Troy! I believe a starting hold broke on it years ago, resulting in the upgrade. I will change the line grade to v10 as I have heard from many people they think it is much harder than v8, and when I have tried it, I though it was much harder as well.


Location: New Hampshire : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Roadside Area : ... : Panini Centre (V1)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 25, 2017

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Comments: Route starts on double underclings.


Location: New Hampshire : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods
By: matthewWallace When: Jan 17, 2017

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Comments: Graham, I see you were out here over the weekend, did they plow the access road to the boat launch this year?


Location: Pennsylvania : South Central PA : Governor Dick Park (aka Mou... : Bulge Area : Squeezematic (V8)
By: matthewWallace When: Dec 26, 2016

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Comments: Do you have any photo's of this climb?


Location: New Hampshire : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Conditions Boulder : Automated (V7-8) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: Are these the starting holds?


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Little Boy (V7-8)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 24, 2016

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Comments: There certainly are some hidden in plain sight undocumented climbs left to do! Good eye for this line!


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Little Boy (V7-8)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 23, 2016

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Comments: Sent this rig today. I end up compressing the whole thing and not using the crimps in the middle of the face for anything but feet. After figuring out and refining my beta I feel this is roughly v7, it compares to the difficulty of Deacon Variation and Metallic. However, I am tall, for shorter people it would certainly be harder, therefore I am giving it the grade of v7-8.

This is a fun line and should see more ascents.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Block : The Block Problem (V9-)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: Oh man, I knew it was only a matter of time for that hold! Was there any hold left behind? Looks like have to work on this line again!


Location: New Hampshire : *Pawtuckaway : Godzilla Boulders
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: I have some info and photo's I have started positing them and a bit more will be coming.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : Little Boy Stand (V3+)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 26, 2016

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Comments: Agreed, this is a good line it is own right, I thought a bit more like v3 though.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Little Boy (V7-8)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 26, 2016

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Comments: I would be interested to know what your foot beta was for the start and where you moved your left hand to for the first move.

I spent a little time trying it tonight and I found the first move very hard, but maybe being a big dude makes the scrunched up beginning harder as I felt like my knees where in my throat due to the low starting holds.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : Pound Back SDS (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 26, 2016

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Comments: After climbing this route I have to agree with Christian. I can easily reach the starting hold for Pound Back with my right hand from the ground.

I agree that starting on the two underclings makes it a bit hard but I do not think it is an independent line. More like a variation to the start and should be listed as such. If pound back is a v2+, I would say this variation brings it to about v3 maybe soft v4.

Just my two cents.


Location: New Hampshire : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Beede Falls Area : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: It is probably going to be in the v9 area, nobody is sure if it has seen an FA yet. The movement is amazing, on mostly solid rock. It will be a 4 star classic for sure.


Location: New Hampshire : Southern NH and Seacoast : Clough State Park
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 22, 2016

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Comments: How quickly does this place dry after rain?


Location: New Hampshire : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Cassius Boulder : Overhand Right (V2-3)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 16, 2016

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Comments: Not a bad climb, much easier than v2-3, possibly the easiest line on the boulder, about the same difficulty as 'Left Jab'. The holds could use a cleaning and the feet would be more secure with a good scrubbing.


Location: New Hampshire : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Cassius Boulder : Left Jab (V1-2)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 16, 2016

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Comments: Hi Nick, I am curious you used the right side of the large crack?

This is a pretty fun line, it could use a bit more cleaning, however it serves as a good warm up.


Location: New Hampshire : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Streambed Boulders : Cup of Tea (V3 PG13)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 13, 2016

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Comments: Graham, do you mean move right to the arete and slab, wouldnt Provia be to the left?


Location: New Hampshire : *Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Arch Nemesis (V4+)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 13, 2016

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Comments: The first move is right hand to the hold the girls right foot is on in the photo.


Location: New Hampshire : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Roadside Area : ... : The Mystic (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: I would love to give you the locals tour!


Location: New Hampshire : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Roadside Area : ... : The Mystic (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: Finally sent this rig yesterday, good conditions and some improved beta made it go. I would love for people to get on it and chime in on the grade! In my opinion this line is one of the best in the notch.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Ship's Prow Boulder : Kraken (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 1, 2016

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Comments: Glad you dig it Jake!


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