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Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact matthewWallace

Point Rank: # 51
Total Points: 8,123

69 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has matthewWallace been climbing?










Contributions


All 4676 | Routes 340 | Areas 56 | Approach Trails | Photos 773 | Page Improvements 6 | Comments 1313 | Posts 517 | Stars 1054 | Ratings 617
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Lost in Translation (V4+)
By: matthewWallace When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Brad, there is a chip I used for my left hand. Fit about three fingers and has a decent incut.


Location: New Hampshire : Southern NH and Seacoast : Clough State Park : Temp sub area - unsorted Cl... : Fire (V4) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 11, 2017

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Comments: What is the thing in the seam?


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Block : Under the Block (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 4, 2017

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Comments: Do you have a picture of the starting holds you used? Which pinch did you use?


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge : Boulder Loop Trail Boulders : The Butterknife (V6-7)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 3, 2017

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Comments: Where on the overhang did you start?


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge : Boulder Loop Trail Boulders : Stop In French (V4-5)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 3, 2017

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Comments: Does this start sitting or standing?


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Block : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 3, 2017

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Comments: The hold Christian's left hand is on is now gone.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Buffalo Corral : East Wall : Stampede (5.8)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 27, 2017

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Comments: This whole climb has good movement, even where it eases higher up, the movement remains entertaining.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Buffalo Corral : East Wall : Flaming Arrow (5.9+)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 27, 2017

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Comments: The lower crux undercling movements are fantastic and the overlap is fun and tricky. A very good route.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Buffalo Corral : East Wall : Ghost Pine (5.6)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 27, 2017

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Comments: IMO, the anchors would be better suited at the last bolt. The current anchor placement makes the rope run over an edge and does not add value to the climb.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Buffalo Pit : Vault 713 (5.12d)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 24, 2017

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Comments: Lee, when you say you started with a jump, does that refer to getting established on the rock (basically jumping from the ground) or the first move is a jump?


Location: Maine : Acadia National Park : Monument Cove
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 17, 2017

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Comments: Does anyone have more specific direction off of the loop road?


Location: New Hampshire : WM: North Conway : Humphrey's Ledge : Humphrey's Bouldering : Vale of Shadows (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 6, 2017

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Comments: Apelton - do you know if that's the name it goes by, happy to change it is if is!


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Meadows : No Money Down (Left) : Dung Beetle (5.8+) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: You are correct, this is "Dung Beetle"


Location: New Hampshire : WM: North Conway : Humphrey's Ledge : Humphrey's Bouldering
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: I have started posting the boulder problems I have been on. If you have proper names or consensus grades that differ from what I have posted, let me know and I will happily make the change.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Moat Boulder : Firestarter (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: May 22, 2017

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Comments: DRusso - starting on the chalked jug to the right is just a variation. It would certainly change the grade starting there.


Location: New Hampshire : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Highlander Wall : Pretty Crack (5.9-)
By: matthewWallace When: May 14, 2017

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Comments: Hey Baldy, is this halfway between the Highlander Wall and the Pulpit Rock area?


Location: New Hampshire : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Highlander Wall : The Quickening (5.11d)
By: matthewWallace When: May 14, 2017

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Comments: This is a great climb, two very interesting and fun cruxes separated by a great rest. I look forward to coming back for the send. You should climb this route.


Location: New Hampshire : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Highlander Wall : Old Boys Club (5.11a)
By: matthewWallace When: May 13, 2017

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Comments: The only thing keeping this route from getting 4 stars in the less than exciting climbing between the two cruxes. The .11a intro is classic and the overhang at the top is tons of fun but the middle is so-so, regardless this is a must climb.

Also, I left two biners on the last two bolts in the roof, so after you pull the mantle you can reverse it, clip the two biners and lower off, instead of having to hard thread through 3 rap rings on a single bolt.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Ginseng for Genius (V9-10)
By: matthewWallace When: May 13, 2017

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Comments: Thanks for the input Troy! I believe a starting hold broke on it years ago, resulting in the upgrade. I will change the line grade to v10 as I have heard from many people they think it is much harder than v8, and when I have tried it, I though it was much harder as well.


Location: New Hampshire : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Roadside Area : ... : Panini Centre (V1)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 25, 2017

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Comments: Route starts on double underclings.


Location: New Hampshire : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods
By: matthewWallace When: Jan 17, 2017

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Comments: Graham, I see you were out here over the weekend, did they plow the access road to the boat launch this year?


Location: Pennsylvania : South Central PA : Governor Dick Park (aka Mou... : Bulge Area : Squeezematic (V8)
By: matthewWallace When: Dec 26, 2016

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Comments: Do you have any photo's of this climb?


Location: New Hampshire : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Conditions Boulder : Automated (V7-8) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: Are these the starting holds?


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Little Boy (V7-8)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 24, 2016

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Comments: There certainly are some hidden in plain sight undocumented climbs left to do! Good eye for this line!


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Little Boy (V7-8)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 23, 2016

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Comments: Sent this rig today. I end up compressing the whole thing and not using the crimps in the middle of the face for anything but feet. After figuring out and refining my beta I feel this is roughly v7, it compares to the difficulty of Deacon Variation and Metallic. However, I am tall, for shorter people it would certainly be harder, therefore I am giving it the grade of v7-8.

This is a fun line and should see more ascents.


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