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Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
Contact Matthew Fienup

Point Rank: # 58
Total Points: 7,183

743 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Matthew Fienup been climbing?










Contributions


All 2174 | Routes 175 | Areas 32 | Approach Trails | Photos 990 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 494 | Posts 55 | Stars 341 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Lone Pine Area > Alabama Hills > Western Wall Area > ... > Tall T (5.10b)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: The left-hand alternate, which starts on Banana Split and then traverses right after that route's first bolt, is HIGHLY recommended. This allows you to skip some extremely scary rock on Tall T's first 3-4 bolts. Two dedicated bolts protect the travers over to Tall T. As mentioned by others the second half of Tall T exhibits good rock and great movement.


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > The Fortress
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 19, 2014

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Comments: Saturday, January 18, saw 20 people from 7 different parties climbing at the Fortress. That must be a one day record. I guess the word is out.


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > The Fortress > Central Gully > Snickerdoodle (5.9)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: The hole is a false-start. We ended up putting a bolt below this and another above this. No bolt has been removed.


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Wheeler Gorge > Ezra (5.9-)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: There are holes like these all over the walls of the gorge (even where no routes exist). On Ezra specifically, there have been no knew holes in the past 15 years.


Location: Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... > 7.3 - Horse Rampart > Roger's Roof (5.8+) > Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: Twins!


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... > the Labrador Ate the Cupcak... (5.6)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: I think you'd be hard-pressed to find ANOTHER 5.6 sport route in SB ;)


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Indian Cove > Rattlesnake Canyon > Iceberg Boulder > Baby Steps (5.2)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: Does anyone know the history of this route and Girl Power? The top anchors look like aging, sketchy button-heads, yet the routes are listed as having FAs done in 2004. Are the lead bolts on the face modern hardware?


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Gibraltar Area > Gibraltar Rock > ... > Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: Oh, come on! Don't leave us hanging like this. You've got to show us the next photo in the series...of Richard pulling the crux. Please.

(great photos--leaves me wanting more!)


Location: California > Southern Sierra > The Needles / Kern River > The Needles > Voodoo Dome > ... > Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: Do you remember how hard that middle crack felt? Thanks for commenting!


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Wheeler Gorge > Aquaphobia (5.12)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: As described in the Edwards guidebook, it also goes at 5.11 A0--that is 5.11 "French-free."


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > The Fortress > Right Side Gully > ... > Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: Exposed and thought-provoking - 11 bolts into the route, Romain is confronted with a 20+ foot lead fall if he comes off at this point.


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Renaissance Crag > Sword In The Stone (5.9+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: Sorry for going on, but this is such a great piece of rock... The bolt to the left of the start of Sword in the Stone (Metolius Hanger next to a seam) might well be on "Made in the Shade" by Anderson & Forkash (1980). The Tucker-Steele guidebook reads, "A seam runs up the ocean side of a pedestal. From the top of the pedestal, face moves lead up and right to a walk-off."


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Renaissance Crag > Sword In The Stone (5.9+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: Awesome route! Excellent movement, and this is hands-down the best rock quality on any route I've climbed in Santa Barbara. Incredible find, Andy.

The hardest move of the route for me came right at the first bolt and is well protected (5.9+). The sequence passing the second bolt at first seemed intimidating, but subtle footwork yielded a path that was quite moderate. My favorite move was the 5.8 mantle at the 6th bolt! Fun until the very last move.

If you get on this route, be sure to also top... more >>


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Foothill Crag ("The Foot") > Sob Story (5.8 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Personally, my favorite route at the crag. Awesome movement. And a proud lead!


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Gibraltar Area > Gibraltar Rock > ... > Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: The blue line follows precisely the topo for Midface from the Tucker-Steele guidebook to Santa Barbara.


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Gibraltar Area > Gibraltar Rock > Variation of the Mid-face (5.6)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: The classic Tucker-Steele guidebook has a topo of Gibraltar Rock that highlights the exact route referred to here as The Bees. The Tucker-Steele book refers to the route as a variation of Midface, FA: Unknown, pre-1960.


Location: California > Southern Sierra > The Needles / Kern River > The Needles > The Charlatan > ... > Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: And the crack above the climber in this photo is EVERY bit as good as it looks. This was the most memorable section of the route for me.


Location: California > Southern Sierra > The Needles / Kern River > The Needles > The Charlatan > ... > Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: P.S.
This photo provides an excellent view of Gemstone, the thin, thin, thin crack on the right that has a small plant growing out midway.


Location: California > Southern Sierra > The Needles / Kern River > The Needles > The Charlatan > ... > Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: I remember starting to the left, directly below the first-pitch dihedral.


Location: California > Southern Sierra > The Needles / Kern River > Dome Rock > Tree Route (5.6) > Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: And now they have left the wall...


Location: California > Southern Sierra > The Needles / Kern River > Dome Rock > Tree Route (5.6) > Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Then there is surely an awesome photo that you could add to the Dome Rock page ;)


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Gibraltar Area > Gibraltar Rock > Inner Tube Toes (5.10a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Thanks so much for posting! The trees make great anchors and seeing as many Gibraltar routes already require long anchor cords, anchor bolts definitely do not seem necessary or appropriate.


Location: California > Southern Sierra > The Needles / Kern River > Dome Rock > The Good Samaritan (5.11+ PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: There is a clear crux encounter about one body length below the first bolt. There are just 2 really hard moves. If leading, there is a shallow placement for a TCU just below this (you'll pull the crux with gear about 2 feet below your toes). Above this, the route is brilliant, sustained 5.10- slab climbing.


Location: California > Central Coast > Conejo Mountain > Mystery Science Theater > Dues Servomachina (5.11d)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 23, 2013

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Comments: Yes. That is actually what I was thinking when I typed "glued-on." Thank you for the important clarification.


Location: California > Central Coast > Conejo Mountain
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 23, 2013

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Comments: It is technically trespassing to walk through the trailer park to access the approach trail. Over the years, I have experienced a wide range of responses from locals. Once, I received a warning from a security guard and told not to return. On several occasions, I have been invited in to a resident's trailer for iced tea.


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