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Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
Contact Matthew Fienup

Point Rank: # 62
Total Points: 6,303

697 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Matthew Fienup been climbing?










Contributions


All 2154 | Routes 175 | Areas 32 | Photos 974 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 491 | Posts 54 | Stars 341 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Aquaphobia (5.12)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: As described in the Edwards guidebook, it also goes at 5.11 A0--that is 5.11 "French-free."


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: Exposed and thought-provoking - 11 bolts into the route, Romain is confronted with a 20+ foot lead fall if he comes off at this point.


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag : Sword In The Stone (5.9+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: Sorry for going on, but this is such a great piece of rock... The bolt to the left of the start of Sword in the Stone (Metolius Hanger next to a seam) might well be on "Made in the Shade" by Anderson & Forkash (1980). The Tucker-Steele guidebook reads, "A seam runs up the ocean side of a pedestal. From the top of the pedestal, face moves lead up and right to a walk-off."


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag : Sword In The Stone (5.9+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: Awesome route! Excellent movement, and this is hands-down the best rock quality on any route I've climbed in Santa Barbara. Incredible find, Andy.

The hardest move of the route for me came right at the first bolt and is well protected (5.9+). The sequence passing the second bolt at first seemed intimidating, but subtle footwork yielded a path that was quite moderate. My favorite move was the 5.8 mantle at the 6th bolt! Fun until the very last move.

If you get on this route, be sure to also top... more >>


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Foothill Crag ("The Foot") : Sob Story (5.8 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: Personally, my favorite route at the crag. Awesome movement. And a proud lead!


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: The blue line follows precisely the topo for Midface from the Tucker-Steele guidebook to Santa Barbara.


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : Variation of the Mid-face (5.6)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: The classic Tucker-Steele guidebook has a topo of Gibraltar Rock that highlights the exact route referred to here as The Bees. The Tucker-Steele book refers to the route as a variation of Midface, FA: Unknown, pre-1960.


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: And the crack above the climber in this photo is EVERY bit as good as it looks. This was the most memorable section of the route for me.


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: P.S.
This photo provides an excellent view of Gemstone, the thin, thin, thin crack on the right that has a small plant growing out midway.


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: I remember starting to the left, directly below the first-pitch dihedral.


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: And now they have left the wall...


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Then there is surely an awesome photo that you could add to the Dome Rock page ;)


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : Inner Tube Toes (5.10a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Thanks so much for posting! The trees make great anchors and seeing as many Gibraltar routes already require long anchor cords, anchor bolts definitely do not seem necessary or appropriate.


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : The Good Samaritan (5.11+ PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: There is a clear crux encounter about one body length below the first bolt. There are just 2 really hard moves. If leading, there is a shallow placement for a TCU just below this (you'll pull the crux with gear about 2 feet below your toes). Above this, the route is brilliant, sustained 5.10- slab climbing.


Location: California : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater : Dues Servomachina (5.11d)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 23, 2013

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Comments: Yes. That is actually what I was thinking when I typed "glued-on." Thank you for the important clarification.


Location: California : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 23, 2013

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Comments: It is technically trespassing to walk through the trailer park to access the approach trail. Over the years, I have experienced a wide range of responses from locals. Once, I received a warning from a security guard and told not to return. On several occasions, I have been invited in to a resident's trailer for iced tea.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 23, 2013

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Comments: Actually...directed traffic until the beautiful creature had successfully crossed.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: They flashed this one! Nobody got wet.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Danger Boy (5.11a) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: For me, this photo really captures the essence of the route--long reaches between big, sloping holds on steep rock in a gorgeous setting. This route is a MUST DO.

Solid lead Alex!


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Central Gully : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: The crux at the third bolt is very well protected. Above that, it's much less well protected (despite the appearance in the photo).


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Central Gully : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: And look how tight that rope is...


Location: Matthew Fienup : Santa Barbara Anchor Replac... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: I agree with both of you. These two were not properly installed...but they're still the "good news" of the anchor situation at Fire Crags.

I haven't been out to the crag in more than a year but have been told that these were actually chopped and replaced (not sure with what).


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Left Crack (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: Traversing pitches are always heady. The leader and the follower are both on lead! Think of it as sustained 5.9 and you might not feel sandbagged. Still a must-do pitch!


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: Have to agree with Ted. You're a chump if you don't get to lead the 2nd pitch. If swinging leads, this also sets you up for the fourth (crux) pitch!


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Lower Kern River Canyon : Lower Kern River Canyon Bou...
By: Matthew Fienup When: May 25, 2013

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Comments: The Moser/Vernon/Paul guidebook refers to 3 different developed crags along the Lower Kern Canyon. These include:
the Gymnasium - a sport climbing area located on the north side of the Kern River, near milepost 24 on Hwy-178. There is another crag located on a steep cliff above the river approximately 5 miles downstream.
Owl Rock - Cracks and chimneys up a tower located on the south side of Hwy-178, at 2000 feet elevation, approximately 20 miles east of Bakersfield. There are 4... more >>


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