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Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Matthew Fienup

Point Rank: # 60
Total Points: 6,303

683 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Matthew Fienup been climbing?










Contributions


All 2150 | Routes 175 | Areas 32 | Photos 974 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 487 | Posts 54 | Stars 341 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 12, 2017

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Comments: tradgirl.com was a reputable site created and administered by a local climber. It was home to excellent local content, including original content from the late Reese Martin. I understand that the original site went inactive at some point. I had not realized that it had been co-opted by less reputable folks.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Central Gully : Spontaneous Order (5.10a PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: Comfortable belay ledges and moderate climbing make the first three pitches of this route a great first multi-pitch route for your second.

The large ledge below the fourth pitch (a.k.a. Seven Steps to Heaven) is an impressive destination all by itself. Bring a picnic lunch and rappel from here with an inexperienced second.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Central Gully : Blue In Green (5.6)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: Pitch length is about 40m, perhaps a little more.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 26, 2017

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Comments: Hi Trevor. We explored the face between Free to Choose and Classically Liberal, and did not find evidence of previous ascents. What we found instead was the poorest quality rock on any of the flatirons in the Fortress.


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 7, 2017

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Comments: At times, it has been very challenging to cross the creek, but the actual wall is in fine shape. The additional moisture has been good - the wall had become so dry and dusty.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Simulkrime (5.9 R) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 12, 2017

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Comments: Bryson is 9 years old in this photo.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Simulkrime (5.9 R) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 3, 2017

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Comments: The ultra-wide angle lens makes this route look lower angle than it actually is. It's off-vertical but more steep than it appears here.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Simulkrime (5.9 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 3, 2017

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Comments: Agreed, spectacular setting! And incredible, sustained slab climbing!

This route can be set up as a long top-rope by scrambling up the far right side of the Alcove and then committing to an exposed traverse to the bolts atop this route--there are two body lengths of easy fifth class moves just before the anchor. The full route, beginning directly below the first bolt is 230 feet long, although it is possible to traverse into the second bolt from the right (skipping some of the fine climbing dow... more >>


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Wild Rose (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 15, 2016

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Comments: Romain and I cleaned and led the crack more than a decade ago. We were calling it Wild Rose, due to the plant growing from the crack.

We never thought to claim a first ascent. We assumed it had been climbed by a previous generation. There's a bolt above where the crack ends.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Wild Rose (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 14, 2016

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Comments: Did you not find evidence of a previous ascent?


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge (East Gully)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 14, 2016

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Comments: I have to admit. Drilling one little hole at the start of Economique now seems relatively harmless...


Location:
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 14, 2016

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Comments: Drilling one little hole at the start of Economique suddenly seems pretty harmless.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Unknown Route On The Right (5.10b)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 9, 2016

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Comments: Chad, thanks for posting this route. I am aware of ascents of the first half of this route as a tall boulder problem going back more than 15 years. Climbers would exit left just above the chalkstone. It is also likely that the face above was top-roped.

Please consider that this route could remain a boulder problem and a top-rope. It does not "need" bolts.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Ojai Urinal (5.11+ V3)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 25, 2016

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Comments: I need to start taking screen shots of classic comments before their authors (or the admins?) think twice and take them down.

"...step in a couple of squeezed piles before climbing a couple of squeezed piles..."

One of my all time favorites.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Economique (5.10a) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 23, 2016

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Comments: It looks like Derek is mid-crux.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Ojai Urinal (5.11+ V3)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 31, 2016

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Comments: William, I am going to take issue with your math. At least nine different locals have weighed in here and in the comments for neighboring routes to protest the recent antics.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Lost Trout (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: Moving the bolt to poorer quality rock or to a location that infringes on the neighboring route should not be considered.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Lost Trout (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: It could certainly be worse:



Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: For many years, there has been a set of belay bolts located down and right of the (now missing) tree at the end of the first pitch of Tree Route. The bolts are on the first pitch of the route Last Homely House.

When I was guiding in the area back in the 90s, I would often lead the first pitch of Tree Route and then climb right, clipping one bolt on the route Arwen to reach this anchor. The first pitch of Last Homely House is a nice top-rope for beginners. As I recall, there is even a second to... more >>


Location: California : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater : Vlad. the Impaler (5.3 A1) : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: How difficult was it to pull these?


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: SPECTACULAR!!


Location: California : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater : Vlad. the Impaler (5.3 A1)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: I don't think I've seen stainless compression bolts before. All of the ones I've replaced have been plated. I guess I've also never seen NEW compression bolts--that seems like an oxymoron.


Location: California : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater : Vlad. the Impaler (5.3 A1)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: Is this new hardware or the original?


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Prophet
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 7, 2016

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Comments: Jonathan, thanks so much for posting!

I'm very curious about the location of this cliff. Below is a map with the Magician and then a detail shot. Is this where you climbed? Thanks for clarifying. Any additional info would be appreciated!

Rock Climbing Photo: The Magician (and the Prophet??)
The Magician (and the Prophet??)


Rock Climbing Photo: Detail - the Prophet??
Detail - the Prophet??

This photo shows a detail of the area inside the red circle in the first photo. Is this the Prophet?


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Ripple Rider (5.8) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: Wesley is only 6 years old in this photo, which might make the upper part of the route look bigger than it is.


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