REI Community
search
Advanced


Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Matthew Fienup

Point Rank: # 60
Total Points: 6,283

669 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Matthew Fienup been climbing?










Contributions


All 2138 | Routes 175 | Areas 32 | Photos 970 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 482 | Posts 53 | Stars 339 | Ratings 86
Page 1 of 20.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Simulkrime (5.9 R) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 12, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Bryson is 9 years old in this photo.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Simulkrime (5.9 R) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 3, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The ultra-wide angle lens makes this route look lower angle than it actually is. It's off-vertical but more steep than it appears here.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Simulkrime (5.9 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 3, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Agreed, spectacular setting! And incredible, sustained slab climbing!

This route can be set up as a long top-rope by scrambling up the far right side of the Alcove and then committing to an exposed traverse to the bolts atop this route--there are two body lengths of easy fifth class moves just before the anchor. The full route, beginning directly below the first bolt is 230 feet long, although it is possible to traverse into the second bolt from the right (skipping some of the fine climbing dow... more >>


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Wild Rose (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Romain and I cleaned and led the crack more than a decade ago. We were calling it Wild Rose, due to the plant growing from the crack.

We never thought to claim a first ascent. We assumed it had been climbed by a previous generation. There's a bolt above where the crack ends.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Wild Rose (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Did you not find evidence of a previous ascent?


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge (East Gully)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I have to admit. Drilling one little hole at the start of Economique now seems relatively harmless...


Location:
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Drilling one little hole at the start of Economique suddenly seems pretty harmless.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Unknown Route On The Right (5.10b)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Chad, thanks for posting this route. I am aware of ascents of the first half of this route as a tall boulder problem going back more than 15 years. Climbers would exit left just above the chalkstone. It is also likely that the face above was top-roped.

Please consider that this route could remain a boulder problem and a top-rope. It does not "need" bolts.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Ojai Urinal (5.11+ V3)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I need to start taking screen shots of classic comments before their authors (or the admins?) think twice and take them down.

"...step in a couple of squeezed piles before climbing a couple of squeezed piles..."

One of my all time favorites.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Economique (5.10a) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 23, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: It looks like Derek is mid-crux.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Ojai Urinal (5.11+ V3)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: William, I am going to take issue with your math. At least nine different locals have weighed in here and in the comments for neighboring routes to protest the recent antics.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Lost Trout (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 26, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Moving the bolt to poorer quality rock or to a location that infringes on the neighboring route should not be considered.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Lost Trout (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 26, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: It could certainly be worse:



Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: For many years, there has been a set of belay bolts located down and right of the (now missing) tree at the end of the first pitch of Tree Route. The bolts are on the first pitch of the route Last Homely House.

When I was guiding in the area back in the 90s, I would often lead the first pitch of Tree Route and then climb right, clipping one bolt on the route Arwen to reach this anchor. The first pitch of Last Homely House is a nice top-rope for beginners. As I recall, there is even a second to... more >>


Location: California : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater : Vlad. the Impaler (5.3 A1) : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: How difficult was it to pull these?


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: SPECTACULAR!!


Location: California : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater : Vlad. the Impaler (5.3 A1)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I don't think I've seen stainless compression bolts before. All of the ones I've replaced have been plated. I guess I've also never seen NEW compression bolts--that seems like an oxymoron.


Location: California : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater : Vlad. the Impaler (5.3 A1)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Is this new hardware or the original?


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Prophet
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 7, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Jonathan, thanks so much for posting!

I'm very curious about the location of this cliff. Below is a map with the Magician and then a detail shot. Is this where you climbed? Thanks for clarifying. Any additional info would be appreciated!

Rock Climbing Photo: The Magician (and the Prophet??)
The Magician (and the Prophet??)


Rock Climbing Photo: Detail - the Prophet??
Detail - the Prophet??

This photo shows a detail of the area inside the red circle in the first photo. Is this the Prophet?


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Ripple Rider (5.8) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: May 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Wesley is only 6 years old in this photo, which might make the upper part of the route look bigger than it is.


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Ripple Rider (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: May 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This route is a great addition to the area!

There is one height dependent move at the crux--might feel like one move of 5.9 for shorter climbers. The crux is very well protected with a bolt (the third bolt) at your chest.


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Fun in the Sun (5.8 R) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The headwall is quite a bit steeper than the wide angle lens makes it appear.


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I've said it elsewhere, but I can't repeat it enough - this is quite surely the single best moderate route on the entire Central Coast.


Quick photography note: the headwall is off-vertical, but the wide angle lens makes it look less steep than it actually is.


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Lower Gibraltar : Chimney Sweep (5.8- PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Tom,thank you for the contributions to Mountain Project--as if pioneering the routes was't enough!

This route was not very climbable for years and years, on account of a healthy Bay Tree which grew out of the crack about 1/2 way up. The Jesusita Fire took care of the tree and now the route is climbable again. It's a very worthy climb!


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Riders of the Purple Sage (5.7)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 3, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Pretty good route overall, though not nearly as good as Eye for Eye. The rock quality on this one gets worse the higher you climb--it might be preferable to skip the last three bolts and finish in the crack to the right (D&D).

Lowered off with a 70m and had just a few feet of extra rope on either end.


Page 1 of 20.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About
Terms · Privacy © 2017 Adventure Projects, Inc.