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Member Since: May 25, 2011
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 12,889
Total Points: 30

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 83 | Routes 3 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 10 | Posts 1 | Stars 41 | Ratings 28
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Borderline

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c (3)

Trad, 1 pitch, 120'

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Jun 21, 2011

Mayflower

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (9)

Trad, 3 pitches, 250'

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Jun 21, 2011

Morning Star

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (4)

Trad, 3 pitches, 270'

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Jun 21, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York > Adirondacks > A: Lake Champlain Region > Split Rock Canyon > On The Take (5.12b)
By: Matt Salter When: Sep 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Fun line. Straightforward, good crack climbing up to a powerful boulder problem crux, then another 10–15 feet of solid hard 5.11 climbing.


Location: New York > Adirondacks > A: Lake Champlain Region > Split Rock Canyon > Public Enemy (5.12b)
By: Matt Salter When: Sep 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Great line-- The best of the 4 we did. Consensus was that it was hard for the grade, 12b/c perhaps?

Unfortunately, the horn is no longer. It was dislodged with fairly minimal force, trashing a rope and two cams upon impact. Just prior to this we were saying it would've been a good candidate for someone to pour some epoxy behind. Hard to tell if the top out is different, prior to it falling I found a way through statically reaching a flat hold just below the horn itself. This did not r... more >>


Location: New York > Adirondacks > A: Lake Champlain Region > Poke-O-Moonshine > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face > Son of Slime (5.10- PG13)
By: Matt Salter When: Aug 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Excellent line. Agree with PG-13 on the first pitch, for both the leader and the follower. The anchor atop the second pitch needs some work; the right bolt is loose. We found it easy and worthwhile to traverse over to the top of C-Tips (roped up) and Rap with 1 rope from there.


Location: Vermont > Bolton Area > Upper West
By: Matt Salter When: Apr 3, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: It's now called "The Petal".

It was first climbed in the early 90's perhaps, on TR. More recently, 3 or 4 years ago as Chris stated, it was bolted (somewhat controversially), and subsequently led cleanly. I am unsure of who bolted it. Somewhat dubious getting to the first bolt.....and yes, mid to hard 5.12 with some long moves and quite sustained.


Location: New York > Adirondacks > A: Lake Champlain Region > Poke-O-Moonshine > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face > Southern Hospitality p1 (5.11c)
By: Matt Salter When: Jun 21, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with the above; this is WAY harder then the first pitch of Psalm 32. Many cruxes, crappy, slippery feet, and no great rests.
Awesome.


Location: Vermont > Bolton Area > 82 Crag > 82 Main Wall > Kid Charlemagne (5.10b)
By: Matt Salter When: Jun 18, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Sorry Chris, I am with Derek on this one. There is no way that thing is even approaching 11a. I even hesitated to go 10a on it as I feel that it is easier than the other 10a's on the cliff.


Location: Vermont > Bolton Area > 82 Crag > 82 Main Wall > Year of the Dog (5.10d)
By: Matt Salter When: Jun 18, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Excellent independent line. It actually has it's own first pitch, independent of Crimp Chimp:

Start 10 feet right of Crimp Chimp and follow mixed bolts and gear in a direct manner, past a flake and up a thin, steep slab. For a most excellent time, link the two pitches together into one exceptional 140 foot pitch to the top.

Rack: A handful of SLCD's from yellow TCU up to red Camelot, along with a few medium/large stoppers

Descent: 2 one rope rappels


Location: Vermont > Bolton Area > 82 Crag > 82 Main Wall > Kid Charlemagne (5.10b)
By: Matt Salter When: Jun 18, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Chris, I am hoping you meant 10a....


Location: New York > Adirondacks > A: Lake Champlain Region > Poke-O-Moonshine > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face > Pilgrim's Progress (5.11+)
By: Matt Salter When: Jun 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Great line. BUT, that second pitch is very tenuous. Felt more like 10+/11- to me. Also, the last pitch is great .10 climbing to a very technical and burly crux. Felt hard for 11c to me, maybe b/c it is rather out of character for the cliff?


Location: Vermont > Bolton Area > 82 Crag > 82 Main Wall > Arms Reduction (5.11b/c)
By: Matt Salter When: May 26, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Excellent line with great rock throughout and airy positioning. I would say a solid 11b/c crux with sustained 10+ climbing above and a bit of the same below. I disagree with it being very heady however. There is excellent gear in the crack about 10 feet below the second bolt. The climbing through that section is also only 5.9 or so, which should be rather straightforward for anyone attempting a climb at this grade. Either way though, a great pitch.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: RN vs Physician Assistant - Lifestyle AdviceGeneral ClimbingMatt SalterOct 22, 2011

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

The Sting 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Borderline 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Macho 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Southern Hospitality p1 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Psalm 32 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a A0

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Bloody Mary 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Casual Observer 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

The Fastest Gun 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Earthly Night 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Scallion 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Cooney-Norton 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Green Onion 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Cosmopolitan Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Son of Slime 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Year of the Dog 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Vermont > Bolton Area > ... > 82 Main Wall

Cirrhosis 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Son of a Mother 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

La Spirale 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

C-Tips 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

The Snatch 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Certified Raw 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Mayflower 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Lost Chance aka The Natural 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Smear Campaign 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Arms Reduction 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Vermont > Bolton Area > ... > 82 Main Wall

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