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Member Since: May 11, 2010
Last Visit: 6 mins ago
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Matt Pierce
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Point Rank: # 3,084
Total Points: 183

2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 479 | Routes | Areas | Photos 52 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 38 | Posts 156 | Stars 149 | Ratings 83
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Talking Out Of Turn (5.10b)
By: Matt Pierce When: May 15, 2017

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Comments: Uber fun route. Very hard to clean on rappel. The deathblock at the belay is clearly marked - easily avoided. Did it in 1 long pitch with a 70m. Well bolted and fun moves - one of the best sport routes I've ever done.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Owl Crack (5.10)
By: Matt Pierce When: Apr 11, 2017

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Comments: "one new-looking but loose (can wiggle it with your fingers - zoiks!) bolt."

Owl Crack had the same last weekend - the right anchor bolt was super loose. I wiggled the whole thing to see if it would pull out and it didnt so I hand tightened the bolt and still used for the rap (along with the other bomber bolt)

Not sure why routes in the area are having so many loose bolts?


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Three Fools (5.10)
By: Matt Pierce When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: The order of routes here is off. This route sits between Rez Dogs and Ernies...
Really is 3.5 most of the way. We got by with 3's and overcammed 4's but it was tough...


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Tom Cat (5.10)
By: Matt Pierce When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: Agreed - the Bloom guide is way off. I think I brought 3 #2 cams that I used up early on then it was all #3 cams to the top - I think I used 6 or 7. I don't like big hands but found plenty of places for great #3 placements and jams. My friend thought there might be a few spots to stick an overcammed #4 but I'm not so sure.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Dandi-Line (5.7)
By: Matt Pierce When: Mar 6, 2017

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Comments: Well worth doing - and clean - would get 3 stars in my opinion if it weren't for having to deal with the tree getting to the anchor.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Vapor Trail (5.9)
By: Matt Pierce When: Nov 13, 2016

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Comments: It would be nice if MP would eliminate all of the super OLD beta comments about routes. At any rate - did this route today and thought it was surprisingly GREAT - on par with the best 9s in the canyon - including Lunch Money and others. If you are a solid 5.9 leader and looking for solid terrain, this is worth the visit.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Unnamed (5.10+)
By: Matt Pierce When: Nov 1, 2016

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Comments: The Bloom IC guide has the gear listed wrong - the #3's are listed twice and there is no mention of a #6. This route has a few spots wider than a #4 - we found 2 #5's handy and a #6 at the very top seemed a requirement for me - was glad we had one.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : Raining Chickens (5.8 PG13)
By: Matt Pierce When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: The bushwhack sucks, but the route is worth doing. PG-13 isn't really warranted.


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Black Mamba Arete (5.8+)
By: Matt Pierce When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Some questionable loose holds. Be careful. Seems like this route may not see a lot of traffic. Good exposed arete up high though - worth doing.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : The Kokanee Corner (5.13+) : Photo
By: Matt Pierce When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments: Sweet shot! 5 stars


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : No Name Crack (5.10)
By: Matt Pierce When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: Take a few #4's for the starting block and the small pods. Lots of #3's for the sustained hands. We used a 70m but surprisingly had quite a bit of rope left.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Shimminy Cricket (5.9+)
By: Matt Pierce When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: I thought this was a tough lead - 4 bolts to a fun crack with face holds on your right - a tough left traverse near the top - we used gear from small X4 and 0.4 C4 to protect the top to a full #4 C4 at the crack - fun!


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Centrist (5.8)
By: Matt Pierce When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: Super textured rock here - some face holds if you don't stay in the crack - crack thins near the top requiring 0.5-0.75 cams - the top of the climb is the crux but is protected by a bolt.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Just A Smidgen Harder (5.10+)
By: Matt Pierce When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: We did an on-sight of this, since it isn't in the new guidebook, but we only did the first pitch. Really good movement, and there didn't seem to be a lot of loose rock. This route is hard to clean on rap, so I brought up my second, and we both rapped off. The description says it goes about .10b, but it really only felt like maybe .9+.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.9)
By: Matt Pierce When: May 6, 2015

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Comments: There is currently a stuck #5 just above "the bolt" - it's been beat up pretty bad with people trying to get it out. I wouldn't plan on it staying there and you should def bring one of your own along. There's also a stuck nut just below the crux at the top of pitch one that I used. A few random thoughts - I thought it was really sustained climbing - especially the endless jamming on pitch 1 - super fun, pitch 2 utilizes your chimney technique for sure, the stepover on pitch 3 is pretty hea... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : ... : Buffalo Soldier (5.10c)
By: Matt Pierce When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: Fun route with some tricky moves down low. We didn't use any gear. The only downside to this route is the moves to the right where you join the other route. It was a little disappointing to run out of bolts and have to move right to join the other line. Extending these bolts is prudent to avoid rope drag.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : ... : Three Little Birds (5.9)
By: Matt Pierce When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: Really nice line with a fun crux. This route will also go on gear. A 0.75 to protect the crux and a few nuts and small cams will work above. Nice job, Adam.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : ... : The Burning Bush (5.7)
By: Matt Pierce When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: Sorry Josh - I have to disagree - this is not a 3 star route. We all agreed it was MAYBE 1. It's uneventful and still really dirty. It's bolted well and is a nice, easy warmup for the harder stuff in the area or a good lead for new leaders. Will be a nice line once cleaned up and will likely warrant a star.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Chickenhead (5.8)
By: Matt Pierce When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: We felt the first pitch was no harder than 5.7. The big unattached flake is still there at the start of the second pitch and is probably more solid than it looks. If you do the third pitch it is short and has 5 bolts. The view from the top is worth the effort. Also - we were able to rap from the top all the way back to the first belay ledge with a 70M.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Chickenhead (5.8) : Photo
By: Matt Pierce When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: Pitch one isn't really harder than 5.7.


Location: Colorado : New Speed Record on The Nak... : Post : Photo
By: Matt Pierce When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: Awesome photo - thanks for sharing


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Get A Life (5.7)
By: Matt Pierce When: Oct 1, 2014

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Comments: Can someone confirm for me: the start of the second pitch - if you head off DIRECTLY above the bolted belay is this actually the route Get Insurance? We heading straight up off of the belay, and honestly it felt like 9+/10- and certainly didn't seem like 5.7. We looked left, but it just didn't seem like that would be correct (rope drag, etc).


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Fill In The Blanks (5.9-)
By: Matt Pierce When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Fun route - that second bolt needs to be extended to avoid terrible rope drag for the leader.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge
By: Matt Pierce When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: We traversed left of the chockstone and thought that was an easier way up - on the way back down someone has placed some new cord around a tree that you could rap with if you don't want to downclimb the chockstone, etc. - could use a rap ring though.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Whistle Pig : Gus (5.6)
By: Matt Pierce When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: Agree with John - a tad easier because of Phil's start. There's a nasty, hand-sized rock right under the roof that's really loose, but we couldn't quite pull....


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