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Member Since: Mar 11, 2012
Last Visit: Jul 7, 2017
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 76 | Routes | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 21 | Posts 31 | Stars 15 | Ratings 7

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : The Fat Hedral (5.10c/d)
By: M HawkMan When: Feb 7, 2017

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Comments: This route is badass. Everything from tips to OW and some crazy cool stemming too.

Bring a BD #5 and save it for the OW section before the thin hands near the top.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Cherry Crack (5.10c)
By: M HawkMan When: Feb 7, 2017

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Comments: Linked both pitches into one MEGA pitch! I would highly recommend climbing Cherry Crack this way.

The climbing to the first anchor is relatively quick and very easy compared to the rest of the route.

The off width is LONG- longer than the first "pitch". I brought 3 BD #4's and wish I had brought more. I would recommend at least 4 #4's and a #5. You don't need a #6 (although you c... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : La Selva (Jungle Wall) : Black Cat Bone (5.10d)
By: M HawkMan When: Dec 26, 2016

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Comments: We did this route today and I have a couple of things to add:

This route is very difficult for the grade. I would definitely suggest the actual rating here to be closer to 5.11a. I would also like to add that the bolts seemed a bit spacey in sections. For the most part, the hardest climbing on this route is pretty safely protected although it might feel spooky in some sections.

HOWEVER,

This climbs DEFINITELY warrants an "R" rating. It is very runout in spots.... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Cañon de los Lobos : ... : Will the Wolf Survive? (5.10a)
By: M HawkMan When: Dec 21, 2016

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Comments: Did this route this evening.

First pitch felt a little tricky and maybe even tad bit runout in spots- same with pitch 2 about the run outs.

You will get a good view on the summit of this route of the notorious spot on the rappell for Estrellitas where everyone gets their rope stuck in the gully. Look left and you will see the palm tree with the fixed line attached to it.

All and all though this was a pretty fun route- get on it!

Oh yeah, and don't be thrown off on the ... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall : Treasure of the Sierra Madr... (5.10c)
By: M HawkMan When: Dec 21, 2016

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Comments: Got on this today- GREAT ROUTE!!!

I highly recommend linking pitches to save time.

Link 1+2, 3+4, 5+6

And then one final push to the summit, 150ft Pitch 7.

25 draws should be fine for this. Bring alpine draws- you will need them in places.

Epic summit too!!!!


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall : Two Pumped Chump (5.11a)
By: M HawkMan When: Dec 21, 2016

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Comments: Great route!! Get on this thing!! Best 11a the the Potrero.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Virgin Canyon : ... : Selam (5.10a)
By: M HawkMan When: Dec 18, 2016

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Comments: EXCELLENT ROUTE. This route is as good as any .10 you can find in the Potrero.

It is very sustained. I would call it closer to .10b because of how continuous all the moves are for a long way.

Our Maxim 70m worked fine although if you have a Mammut 70m you won't make it. for some reason they are a bit shorter, or maybe our maxim is longer than 70m.

If you are concerned, just rap climbers right to the anchors for Flying Scorpions just beside the ledge with all the plants ... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Virgin Canyon : ... : Penitente (5.10b)
By: M HawkMan When: Dec 18, 2016

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Comments: This thing is great. Some fun Slabby face to an awesome roof pull!! go straight up after the roof (not right) to the newer anchor.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : El Fin de Semana (Weekend W... : Pepe y Lupe (Craig Luebben ... (5.10c)
By: M HawkMan When: Dec 18, 2016

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Comments: Ditto everyone about not doing the last pitch.

We climbed the second pitch and rapped. Same same but different to the dihedral made for a nice 2 pitch outing. I would call the second stemming pitch solid .10c.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : El Fin de Semana (Weekend W... : Same Same But Different (5.10)
By: M HawkMan When: Dec 18, 2016

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Comments: Great route, although a bit awkward/tenuous at times. Bass guidebook calls it .10b which is a bit of a sandbag. I would put in more in line with .10c/d at least. Best way to start Pepe y Lupe.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : La Ola (The Wave) : La Baca-Chenta (5.10d)
By: M HawkMan When: Dec 18, 2016

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Comments: Awesome route- get on this thing!!!

5.10- face climbing leads up to a spectacular roof finish on good holds!!! 5.10+


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : La Ola (The Wave) : La Ola (5.10b)
By: M HawkMan When: Dec 18, 2016

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Comments: I found a little rattlesnake at the top of this route today. He was perched up and left about 6 inches from the chains in a small alcove. I nearly put my hand on him by accident because he blended in so well with the limestone I didn't see him- luckily a sixth sense or something kicked in for me and I recognized him.

BE CAREFUL IN THE POTRERO!!! This place is very dangerous and must be respected at all times. The second you let your guard down here you will regret it. Rockf... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Brush Painted Datsun (5.10b/c)
By: M HawkMan When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Anyone know anything about a second pitch?


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Pale Fire (5.12b)
By: M HawkMan When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Single 70m rope gets you down.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area : Tombstone : Rigor Mortis (5.9+ C2)
By: M HawkMan When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: Rappel Beta*****

As A. Roberts said:

"We had trouble pulling the ropes from the top, it would be helpful if someone were to extend the anchors over the edge."

Well so did we.

I left a double length runner and a locking carabiner extending the anchor at the top of the route. (After jugging our lines TWICE because they wouldn't pull).

The bolts (2) on the top are suspect. They need to be replaced. Both are protruding about an inch out of the rock leaving the hangers loose and flapping arou... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Three Gossips : Be There or Be Talked About (5.11 C1)
By: M HawkMan When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: ROUTE BETA****

Few things:

Gear- Bring a single rack up to .5 Camalot. triples of .75 to #2 Camalot. (Maybe a #3?) Bring a #4 through #6 Camalot FOR THE FIRST PITCH. (You won't need the big gear for the V-Slot Second pitch- just leave it on the plush ledge above the P1 OW).

Rappel- Bring a 60M tag line and leave it on the ledge atop the P1 OW. From there climb with a 70M line to summit and complete 2 raps from the summit back down to the ledge where you left your tag ... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Predator Tower : Reign of Terror (5.11a)
By: M HawkMan When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: So here's the deal:

Word on the street is that Predator is actually NOT on the weird private property marked off by all the signs.

Apparently the guy who owns that property is different from the people who have the trailer and Teepee you will see off to the right (north?) when approaching the tower.

My buddy and I were planning on going back out there at some point soon. I can't speak 100% of the safety/legality/"kosherness" of climbing Predator, but it seems like it should go.

I would st... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Predator Tower : Reign of Terror (5.11a)
By: M HawkMan When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: @ Mr. K

I second the comment about the "weirdness". My buddy and I went to try and climb Predator today but it ended up being a bust. Here's what happened:

We hiked across "the field" heading from Kane Creek rd directly to Predator Tower, and about 200-300m before the tower we encountered a series of No Trespassing signs. They were all supported by rocks stacked about 2 ft high (sort of like a big cairn) and all read "Posted No Trespassing, Keep Out". The signs were lined up in a row heading s... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Three Penguins : Right Chimney (5.10+)
By: M HawkMan When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: RAPPEL BETA**

So I've found after doing this climb a few times it's quite nice to double rope rap (70's) straight down to the road from the summit. 2 60's might work as well? Can somebody let me know.

It's nice to skip the down hike by adding the extra rap.

Also, 1 70m rope gets you from the summit back down to the ledge easily, as stated.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Great Wall : Chinese Eyes (5.9+)
By: M HawkMan When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: Approach BETA*****

To approach these climbs park near the bridge that crosses Courthouse Wash.

Hike up Courthouse Wash until you reach the prominent buttress which hosts climbs like "Chinese Eyes". Cut right at/near the base of the wall and the climbs are obvious.

Do NOT tromp through the "field" of crypto from one of the pullouts after crossing Courthouse Wash. There is no established trail and the washes are sparse and scattered. Much easier to simply hike up CW.

Cheers.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Great Wall
By: M HawkMan When: Feb 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Approach BETA*****

To approach these climbs park near the bridge that crosses Courthouse Wash.

Hike up Courthouse Wash until you reach the prominent buttress which hosts climbs like "Chinese Eyes". Cut right at/near the base of the wall and the climbs are obvious.

Do NOT tromp through the "field" of crypto from one of the pullouts after crossing Courthouse Wash. There is no established trail and the washes are sparse and scattered. Much easier to simply hike up CW.

Cheers.


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