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Member Since: Nov 19, 2008
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Matt Glue

Point Rank: # 9,548
Total Points: 25

2 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Matt Glue been climbing?










Contributions


All 153 | Routes | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements | Comments 37 | Posts 64 | Stars 36 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: CAMP Flash Anorak

CAMP Flash Anorak

Mar 24, 2017

Rock Climbing Photo: CAMP Flash Anorak

CAMP Flash Anorak

Mar 24, 2017

Rock Climbing Photo: Trango Cube boots, size 45.5

Trango Cube boots, size 45.5

Mar 24, 2017

Rock Climbing Photo: Trango Cube boots, size 45.5

Trango Cube boots, size 45.5

Mar 24, 2017

Rock Climbing Photo: Small slab slide just above penultimate bulge on B...

Small slab slide just above penultimate bulge on Black Lake Slabs, 2015-03-14.

Forums : Colorado : ... : Post

Mar 16, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Small slab slide just above penultimate bulge on B...

Small slab slide just above penultimate bulge on Black Lake Slabs, 2015-03-14.

Forums : Colorado : ... : Post

Mar 16, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: AMU, 2015-03-15.

AMU, 2015-03-15.

Forums : Colorado : ... : Post

Mar 16, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: This rock moves! The entire chunk of rock in front...

This rock moves! The entire chunk of rock in front of him. Careful.

Utah : Moab Area : ... : Virgin Wool (5.10- C2+)

May 29, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Typical placement on P3 of Virgin Wool.

Typical placement on P3 of Virgin Wool.

Utah : Moab Area : ... : Virgin Wool (5.10- C2+)

May 29, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the P4 anchors on Zenyatta Entrada. Photo ...

Nearing the P4 anchors on Zenyatta Entrada. Photo credit: John Nollendorfs.

Utah : Moab Area : ... : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C2+)

May 8, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: As high as we got on The Phallus.

As high as we got on The Phallus.

Utah : Moab Area : ... : SW Face (5.9 C3 R)

May 8, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: In need of a Labatt-Ami...

In need of a Labatt-Ami...

New York : Adirondacks : ... : Labatt-Ami (5.7)

Aug 12, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area : Lost World Butte : Pearly Gates (5.5 C1)
By: Matt Glue When: Apr 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: 2x 60 m made it to the ground. Got ropes stuck in grooves while pulling, but after a lot of effort managed to whip em out.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area : Lost World Butte : The Road Not Taken (5.10)
By: Matt Glue When: Apr 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Scary fun!

P1 is kinda loose but short and not bad. Ropeless walk over is easy and totally safe til the last few pro-less scree steps.
P2 is loose and heads-up for sure, for leader and follower. Bring a 5 or 6 for this one, otherwise small rack of cams.
P3 was fun and secure enough. One draw and a hand-sized cam are all the gear you get.
P4 is wide #5 or tight #6 (either one) all the way to the blocky cave, and #5 to wider than #6 at the stout finish. Recommend double... more >>


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Cragmont : The Gypsy's Curse (5.10)
By: Matt Glue When: Oct 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Phenomenal route! The chimney must be one of the best for learning how to almost-squeeze. Great gear and holds in the back, but you can ignore the holds if you want to and just squeeze away. With 1x #4 and 2x #3's, P2 was runout but doable.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Red Canyon : Supercrack Buttress
By: Matt Glue When: Mar 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A must-do. Supercrack and Wiggle Worm are each worth the hike by themselves. There is another great-looking climb not listed here (but listed in a guidebook) - bring three or four #4s for it. There are probably one or two more as well, but I couldn't see anchors.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Red Canyon : Supercrack Buttress : Wiggle Worm (5.11)
By: Matt Glue When: Mar 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Followed this yesterday, and I can't wait to head back to lead it. It's just as good as Supercrack. The majority is 5.10, with a short hard crux. You can stretch out your finger sized cams more if you bring a 2, 3, and maybe a 4. Can just barely be lowered off with one 70m rope - knot the end! Anchor webbing is fresh as of yesterday, but you'll probably want to bring your own.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : First Blood (5.10)
By: Matt Glue When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: The chockstones are obvious and probably good, but there are also flakes up top that are huge and seem ready to blow.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Predator Tower : Reign of Terror (5.11a)
By: Matt Glue When: Oct 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Fun little tower! Access is fine - skirt to the right around the no trespassing signs.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Desert Shield (5.11a C3)
By: Matt Glue When: Mar 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Great route! With the right rack though, only the very end of P8 is C3. Maybe even C2+. One hook to small offset cam to either 5.9 free move or another hook, then 5.6.

3 - 5 sets offset micros (depending on how much backcleaning you can do)
1 - 2 sets offset aluminum (same)
1 - 2 sets offset cams (same)
2 grappling hooks
1 set medium nuts (we used em and they were great)
double set of cams, micro through #3
1x #4
medium tricams also would have been nice

The bolt on P8 is currently ... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Sheep Rock : Virgin Wool (5.10- C2+)
By: Matt Glue When: May 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did this on Monday. P3 is on par with the best of Zenyatta Entrada! Yep, a triple set of offset micronuts for the first half of P3. More if you don't backclean, or just extras around the green/purple Peenut size. The occasional drilled angle and larger cam is very appreciated. Then doubles/triples in small TCUs/C3s for the second half.

Someone with small fingers could think about freeing the second half of P3. Maybe that's why all those drilled pitons are up there? I was wondering how well a C3... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11-)
By: Matt Glue When: May 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: For P2, make the sure the leader minds the follower. Put a piece in just after pulling the 2nd crux (getting out of the pod and into the super-secure wide section). With no pro in the super-secure wide thing, a fall getting into it would pendulum and grate the rope all across its jagged edge.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Phallus : SW Face (5.9 C3 R)
By: Matt Glue When: May 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Tried this on 4/8. I had led a few pitches of C2 and under, and figured I'd try a C3. Wow! Big mistake. 2 hours of utter terror to go the 30 feet above the free climbing. I bailed at the bolts; my mind was totally fried. Did Zenyatta Endtrada the next day with no problem. Big difference between C2+ and C3. Maybe someday...


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C2+)
By: Matt Glue When: May 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did this on 4/9. Second real aid line, after Playing Hooky on the Tombstone and a few towers around Moab. So awesome! This climb showed me that aid climbing is fun! P4 was especially memorable. High-stepping off of the terrible tricam to reach the bolt before the anchor, then having it fall out as I stepped off, was one of the most elating climbing moments of my life.

I definitely came across many scars that wouldn't take nuts or cams of any kind - only tricams, and bad ones at that. Either I'm... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Black Jack Boulder : Black Jack Crack (5.10d V2)
By: Matt Glue When: Sep 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: If it were twice as long, it would be known throughout the country. As is, it's a Northeast classic. If you have a rack of cams and are at Rumney, just do this.


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