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Member Since: Nov 19, 2008
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
Contact Matt Glue

Point Rank: # 8,207
Total Points: 60

2 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Matt Glue been climbing?










Contributions


All 164 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 12 | Page Improvements | Comments 41 | Posts 69 | Stars 37 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: CAMP Flash Anorak

CAMP Flash Anorak

Mar 24, 2017

Rock Climbing Photo: CAMP Flash Anorak

CAMP Flash Anorak

Mar 24, 2017

Rock Climbing Photo: Trango Cube boots, size 45.5

Trango Cube boots, size 45.5

Mar 24, 2017

Rock Climbing Photo: Trango Cube boots, size 45.5

Trango Cube boots, size 45.5

Mar 24, 2017

Rock Climbing Photo: Small slab slide just above penultimate bulge on B...

Small slab slide just above penultimate bulge on Black Lake Slabs, 2015-03-14.

Forums > Colorado > ... > Post

Mar 16, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Small slab slide just above penultimate bulge on B...

Small slab slide just above penultimate bulge on Black Lake Slabs, 2015-03-14.

Forums > Colorado > ... > Post

Mar 16, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: AMU, 2015-03-15.

AMU, 2015-03-15.

Forums > Colorado > ... > Post

Mar 16, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: This rock moves! The entire chunk of rock in front...

This rock moves! The entire chunk of rock in front of him. Careful.

Utah > Moab Area > ... > Virgin Wool (5.8 C2)

May 29, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Typical placement on P3 of Virgin Wool.

Typical placement on P3 of Virgin Wool.

Utah > Moab Area > ... > Virgin Wool (5.8 C2)

May 29, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the P4 anchors on Zenyatta Entrada. Photo ...

Nearing the P4 anchors on Zenyatta Entrada. Photo credit: John Nollendorfs.

Utah > Moab Area > ... > Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C2+)

May 8, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: As high as we got on The Phallus.

As high as we got on The Phallus.

Utah > Moab Area > ... > SW Face (5.9 C3 R)

May 8, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: In need of a Labatt-Ami...

In need of a Labatt-Ami...

New York > Adirondacks > ... > Labatt-Ami (5.7)

Aug 12, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Glacier Point Apron > Glacier Point Apron - Right > Apron Jam (5.9)
By: Matt Glue When: Oct 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Fun climb! With walking you can easily get by with 2x BD #4s, mostly double rack below that. A #5 is really nice too, if you don't want to run out the start.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Glacier Point Apron > Glacier Point Apron - Right > Mr. Natural (5.10+)
By: Matt Glue When: Oct 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Spectacular!

Some parts of the crack take BD 0.4, more of the crack takes BD 0.3, almost all of the crack takes yellow Aliens. So bring lots of those. And a couple smaller ones for the thinner crux section up high. Then a double rack from BD 0.5 - 1 and set of nuts for the larger pods, single 2 and 3 will do it.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Royal Arches > Trial By Fire (5.8)
By: Matt Glue When: Oct 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Nice little easy climb. Only gear needed is one or two #4s, a #5, and some long slings. You can walk the cams the whole way and sling a chockstone once in a while. Can take a #2 at the top, but it's not really needed at that point.


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries > Jurassic Park - Lily Lake > The Fin > Edge of Time (5.9)
By: Matt Glue When: Sep 5, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The crux is getting past the first bolt. Between that and the second bolt isn't easy either, and you'll deck if you blow it uless you bring a 0.3. The rest of it is also spaced far but a lot easier.

Good climb, but Andrology is way, way better and 5.9/5.10 until the end!


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Lost World Butte Area > Lost World Butte > Pearly Gates (5.5 C1)
By: Matt Glue When: Apr 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: 2x 60 m made it to the ground. Got ropes stuck in grooves while pulling, but after a lot of effort managed to whip em out.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Lost World Butte Area > Lost World Butte > The Road Not Taken (5.10)
By: Matt Glue When: Apr 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Scary fun!

P1 is kinda loose but short and not bad. Ropeless walk over is easy and totally safe til the last few pro-less scree steps.
P2 is loose and heads-up for sure, for leader and follower. Bring a 5 or 6 for this one, otherwise small rack of cams.
P3 was fun and secure enough. One draw and a hand-sized cam are all the gear you get.
P4 is wide #5 or tight #6 (either one) all the way to the blocky cave, and #5 to wider than #6 at the stout finish. Recommend doubles in 5 and 6, leave one ... more >>


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Mount Carmel Tunnel > Cragmont > The Gypsy's Curse (5.10)
By: Matt Glue When: Oct 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Phenomenal route! The chimney must be one of the best for learning how to almost-squeeze. Great gear and holds in the back, but you can ignore the holds if you want to and just squeeze away. With 1x #4 and 2x #3's, P2 was runout but doable.


Location: Colorado > Grand Junction Area > Colorado National Monument > Red Canyon > Supercrack Buttress
By: Matt Glue When: Mar 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A must-do. Supercrack and Wiggle Worm are each worth the hike by themselves. There is another great-looking climb not listed here (but listed in a guidebook) - bring three or four #4s for it. There are probably one or two more as well, but I couldn't see anchors.


Location: Colorado > Grand Junction Area > Colorado National Monument > Red Canyon > Supercrack Buttress > Wiggle Worm (5.11)
By: Matt Glue When: Mar 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Followed this yesterday, and I can't wait to head back to lead it. It's just as good as Supercrack. The majority is 5.10, with a short hard crux. You can stretch out your finger sized cams more if you bring a 2, 3, and maybe a 4. Can just barely be lowered off with one 70m rope - knot the end! Anchor webbing is fresh as of yesterday, but you'll probably want to bring your own.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Way Rambo > First Blood (5.10)
By: Matt Glue When: Nov 29, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The chockstones are obvious and probably good, but there are also flakes up top that are huge and seem ready to blow.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Kane Springs Canyon > Predator Tower > Reign of Terror (5.11a)
By: Matt Glue When: Oct 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Fun little tower! Access is fine - skirt to the right around the no trespassing signs.


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Desert Shield Buttress > Desert Shield (5.11a C3)
By: Matt Glue When: Mar 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Great route! With the right rack though, only the very end of P8 is C3. Maybe even C2+. One hook to small offset cam to either 5.9 free move or another hook, then 5.6.

3 - 5 sets offset micros (depending on how much backcleaning you can do)
1 - 2 sets offset aluminum (same)
1 - 2 sets offset cams (same)
2 grappling hooks
1 set medium nuts (we used em and they were great)
double set of cams, micro through #3
1x #4
medium tricams also would have been nice

The bolt on P8 is currently loose and wi... more >>


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Arches National Park > Sheep Rock > Virgin Wool (5.8 C2)
By: Matt Glue When: May 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did this on Monday. P3 is on par with the best of Zenyatta Entrada! Yep, a triple set of offset micronuts for the first half of P3. More if you don't backclean, or just extras around the green/purple Peenut size. The occasional drilled angle and larger cam is very appreciated. Then doubles/triples in small TCUs/C3s for the second half.

Someone with small fingers could think about freeing the second half of P3. Maybe that's why all those drilled pitons are up there? I was wondering how well a C3... more >>


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