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Rock Climbing Photo: Stairway to Heaven


Member Since: Jul 16, 2003
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact Martin le Roux

Point Rank: # 2,738
Total Points: 271
Last Year: 65
Last 30 Days: 15
21 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Martin le Roux been climbing?










Contributions


All 563 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 37 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 47 | Posts 453 | Stars 17 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : BC's Canadian Rockies : Mount Robson Provincial Par... : ... : Photo
By: Martin le Roux When: Sep 27, 2016

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Comments: Original here: summitpost.org/schwartz-ledges...


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : BC's Canadian Rockies : Mount Robson Provincial Par... : ... : Photo
By: Martin le Roux When: Sep 27, 2016

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Comments: This looks a lot like Bill Kerr's photo on Summitpost: summitpost.org/schwartz-ledges...


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Horseshead
By: Martin le Roux When: Sep 25, 2016

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Comments: GPS locations (WGS84):
Parking area N40.43905 W105.32769
Base of crag N40.43698 W105.31733
Downloadable GPX approach track connect.garmin.com/modern/acti...


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : Dallas Peak : East Face/Dallas Peak (5.3) : Photo
By: Martin le Roux When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: This photo was taken from Mt. Sneffels and originally posted on summitpost.org by user belexes. Topo markings are mine. "5.3" is the regular route. We climbed the variation by mistake. If you trend left as shown on the topo, it's 5.3. According to Roach's book, you can also climb straight up from the same start at 5.6.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : Photo
By: Martin le Roux When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Midsummer weekdays aren't much better.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Selkirk Mountains : ... : Northwest Ridge (5.4 X)
By: Martin le Roux When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: Parks Canada has a pdf guide to the descent: pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/bc/glacier/.... This was published before July 2013 rockfall affected the summit bypass (see Gregory's comment above) but the information about the W face rappels is still relevant.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : Photo
By: Martin le Roux When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: Bugaboo-Snowpatch rappel anchors (2016). They're in sheltered locations, which is good, but they're difficult to see from above. They're 25m apart. There used to be another set of rappel anchors on climber's right but they're been removed because of rockfall danger.

Downclimbing is also an option when there's good snowcover like this. Slope angle is about 50 degrees at the top... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : The Bugaboos
By: Martin le Roux When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: Just returned to the Bugaboos after a 20-year absence.

- Seemed more crowded than before. Parking lot was filled to capacity, Kain cabin was fully booked, and there were line-ups for the technical climbing on the Kain Route and the rappels on the BS col. This was in mid-July. Maybe more people are trying to visit before the BS col melts out later in the season?
- The road's well-maintained. No problem getting up there in a regular 2WD vehicle.
- The Kain cabin'@SEMI... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Great Dihedral (5.7)
By: Martin le Roux When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: One can descend from the top of the 3rd pitch in two 60m double-rope rappels. Both raps are from slung trees. As of July 2016, the slings were in good condition. The first rap point is at the 3rd pitch belay. The rappels go straight down the face (climber's left of the dihedral). Don't try this with a single rope, there aren't any intermediate rap points.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : The Ribbon (WI4)
By: Martin le Roux When: Jan 24, 2016

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Comments: Just because the CAIC rates the avalanche danger as low-to-moderate doesn't mean this route is safe. We had a very narrow escape this past weekend when the bowl above the climb released just as we'd finished climbing and were preparing to rappel. Fortunately we were tied in and the anchors were out of the way of the worst of the avalanche, but we were pounded with snow, and I was swept off my feet. The avalanche ran for about 1,000' below the climb. If we'd been climbing at the time or half-way ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : A Walk in The Park : A Walk In The Park (5.5)
By: Martin le Roux When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: One can also get from the Chief's Head/Pagoda col to the summit of Pagoda via a traverse ledge on Pagoda's SW Face. It's almost all 4th class or easier except for one or two easy 5th class moves. Details here: mountainproject.com/v/west-rid....

Peter: to add to the confusion, there's another version of the "Glacier Gorge Traverse" at mountainproject.com/v/glacier-.... That version starts with the Arrowhead/McHenry's ridge and leaves out Storm P... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Glacier Gorge Traverse (5.7+)
By: Martin le Roux When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: For those that don't want to carry a rope or solo 5.7, there's an easy alternative to the W Ridge of Pagoda. See mountainproject.com/v/west-rid....


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : South Face (5.8+)
By: Martin le Roux When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: In case this isn't clear from the above comments, there are at least 5 different finishes.

1. The original finish: Off-width on the L side of the S face. This is the one in the main route description.
2. Finger crack to its right. See Leo Paik's 2002 comment.
3. Steep crack with pins up the middle of the E face (the original finish of the "standard route", not to be confused with the standard finish of the S Face route). See Erik Corkran's and ac's 2002 comments, and J1's 2010 photo.
4. Off-wid... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie
By: Martin le Roux When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: Bring hiking shoes for the descent. It's not rappels all the way like the Petit Grepon or Saber. There's a long scramble down a loose gully. Not fun in rock shoes.


Location: North America : Canada : Yukon Territory : Mount Logan
By: Martin le Roux When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: As of the 2015 season it's no longer possible to (legally) access Mt Logan from Alaska. Canada Border Services Agency is no longer giving permission to cross the Alaska/Yukon border in remote locations, and without CBSA permission Parks Canada won't issue a mountaineering permit for trips starting in Alaska. Hopefully this will change in future, but right now that's the case.


Location: North America : Canada : Yukon Territory : Mount Logan : Photo
By: Martin le Roux When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: Nice picture. That's Mt St Elias and Mt August in the foreground; just the top part of Logan is visible behind them.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Peak 11,300 : South West Ridge (5.8 M4) : Photo
By: Martin le Roux When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: This is highly foreshortened. Photo was taken at 8,000'; 1st col is 9,000', Grey Rock is 9,700'. Summit is out of sight and another 1,600' above Grey Rock.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Peak 11,300 : South West Ridge (5.8 M4)
By: Martin le Roux When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Excellent route. We climbed this in May 2014.

- Snow levels were low this year and we had to climb rock in a couple of places we weren't expecting, e.g. above the Thin Man Squeeze and getting up to the notch before the 2nd col.

- We found the last 500' of 50-55 degree slopes below the summit to be mostly ice with minimal snow cover. Don't skimp on ice-screws unless you're comfortable soloing that kind of terrain.

- Don't underestimate the descent. The first part is a long descending traverse... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker : Dragon's Egg Couloir Ski De... (R)
By: Martin le Roux When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: If you're starting at Sandbeach Lake trailhead, don't go all the way to Sandbeach Lake. Stay on the trail for about 2/3 mile past the Hunter's Creek crossing, then head NNW through open forest for about 1/2 mile. If you do it right, you'll rejoin Hunter's Creek just below treeline. This is shorter than going all the way to Sandbeach Lake but avoids dense forest lower down in Hunter's Creek.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : ... : Enter The Dragon (aka Old R... (5.7 M4)
By: Martin le Roux When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: Added a photo showing pitch 6. This is a lot steeper and more sustained than the pitches lower down. When we climbed this in April 2014 there was no sign of anyone having done this pitch in a long time. It ends at a large, rubble-strewn ledge. We rappelled the pitch and downclimbed to get back to the rap point at the top of pitch 4 (see above comments from 2013). According to Gillett's book, it's possible to continue along the SE ridge, but that looked like it would be a long way and would invol... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Glacier Gorge : ... : McHenry's Notch Couloir (5.4 AI2)
By: Martin le Roux When: Sep 1, 2013

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Comments: Do not - repeat, not - do as we did and attempt this in late August. The top of couloir had melted out, and we had to climb up loose, microwave-sized blocks perched on 50 degree mud. It might be a nice climb earlier in the summer.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : North Face Highlight Tour (5.8)
By: Martin le Roux When: Aug 7, 2013

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Comments: For more beta on the approach via Owen & Gunsight Notch see mountainproject.com/v/the-gran....


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : The Grand Traverse (5.8)
By: Martin le Roux When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Went back and completed the traverse over 3 days from Aug 2-4, 2013.

- There are at least two different ways to get from Owen to Gunsight Notch. (i) Follow Rolando's description and cross to the W side of Owen's S ridge at the first notch S of the summit, or (ii) stay on the E side of the ridge for a couple of hundred feet, then cross to the W side at a notch further south. Either way there's much exposed down-climbing and for most peo... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: Martin le Roux When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Don't be distracted by the shiny new bolts a few feet to the right of the dike on pitch 3. Those belong to Eye in the Sky.

If you're climbing with an inexperienced second then double ropes help minimize the pendulum potential when following pitches 1 and 3. But they're sure heavy to carry all that way.

Most of the belays are semi-hanging. Bring comfy shoes and avoid climbing as a party of three.


Location: Africa : South Africa : Table Mountain : Touch and Go (5.10c)
By: Martin le Roux When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: First ascent (1961) was by Richard Williams, Paul White and Barry Fletcher. I've posted some scanned photos from their original trip report.


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