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Member Since: Jul 1, 2010
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact Mark Rolofson

Point Rank: # 1,766
Total Points: 385

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Mark Rolofson been climbing?










Contributions


All 726 | Routes 34 | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 244 | Posts 70 | Stars 203 | Ratings 160
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Fang : Belligerent Buttress (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 11, 2017

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Comments: This was the first route that I established at the crag in September 1992. It was the first sport route on the crag, too. There are three hard sections. The start, pulling over the roof, & getting established on the face above is the first hard section (.12a). Then gain a great rest. The second obstacle ascends a steep slab with a seam up the right side of the prow (.12a). The crux is the finish up the overhanging prow (.12b). Fun route with relatively friendly holds. There are 9 bolts / 2 bolt ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : Europithacus (5.11b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 10, 2017

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Comments: A total sandbag at 5.11b. More like 5.12a. I had climbed at the Trojan Bunny Buttress for the first time in Summer 2001. I returned in May-June 2002, with Blake Treadway only to find that the bolts on this route had been removed. After replacing the bolts, we made the first ascent of a 3 bolt direct start (5.11d) that is downhill & left of the easy start.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa : Longbow Chimney (5.8 A1)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 10, 2017

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Comments: Hi Mack Johnson. You climbed this route with me on March 25, 1978 on the same trip we made two first ascents of short unclimbed spires (Baby Sister & Family Member) in the Sister Superior Group). You & I made the 2nd ascent of this route on the Crooked Arrow Spire. There was a summit register in a plastic bottle. I have a few slides of our ascent, including ones of you on the summit.

Those were great times in the Castle Valley. The four of us that went on that Spring Break trip were probably... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Unknown (5.9)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: There is ledge fall potential above the 2nd bolt. Be careful.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Unknown Variation (5.10-)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: The route has 4 bolts. Definitely committing getting to the 3rd bolt. Best not to fall. There is a good, vertical edge system on the right. Another bolt between the 2nd & 3rd bolt would be nice, but it's no big deal if you are climbing 5.11+ or harder. I have never thought the crux past 3rd bolt was only 5.10-. Very solid 5.10 crux. The rest of the climb is 5.9 & easier.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Turkey Neck Direct (5.11+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: Excellent climb. The vertical face climbing past 2nd bolt to 4th bolt is 5.11b & quite fun. Then shake out under the roof before a tricky, powerful crux. The roof crux has sloping pinch holds, sidepulls, & a dyno to the turkey neck jug. Still tricky past the last bolt. Worth doing & repeating.


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : Botany of Desire (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 5, 2017

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Comments: Bernard, you didn't tell me that the route was almost 5.13b when we climbed together at the Trojan Bunny Buttress in Summer 2003. You had not tried the climb yet. You had called me a few times between 2003 & 2007 to ask me for route information. So I vividly remember you talking about Botany Of Desire & its rating. Yes, you can deny it, as there is no recording of those conversations.

Secondly, regarding my documentation as "grabbing or clipping the anchor". I wrote it this way, b... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Universal Crag : Palm Pilot (5.13d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 30, 2017

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Comments: Very easy to criticize, Jason. Not that your opinion really matters to me. There are no shortage of zealots & armchair quarterbacks. Have you climbed the route? Clearly Jimmy Redo was proud enough of his send to post & rename the route.

In 45 years of climbing & hundreds of first ascents, I have manufactured only a handful of holds. It isn't something I take lightly. I prefer to put up 100% natural lines & 99% of my routes are. That said, I came to realize that the rock has some limitation... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Howdy Doody Time (5.11b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 30, 2017

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Comments: I should add that this route was equipped & cleaned by Kirk Miller. I only placed the 5th bolt. This was added after Kirk led it without. I felt the 5th bolt was wanted to protect some hard moves climbing right & then up a short arete. Kirk agreed & I added the 5th bolt. Kirk was also the first to redpoint the climb the day of our first ascent. First ascent was on September 21, 2003.

I think Kirk did an excellent job equipping the route, & it is bolted perfectly. Over the past 13.5 years, I ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Dude's Jam Crack (5.11a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 29, 2017

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Comments: A fun crack climb with a thin crux using some face holds getting over the first roof. I don't agree the climb is only .10c. Both roofs felt like .11a & the first one maybe as hard as .11a/b.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Chili Power (5.11)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 29, 2017

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Comments: First ascent: Mark Rolofson on July 12, 2003. I have always felt this climb was at least 5.11d. I rated it 5.11d/12a. A short, overhanging route with a dyno off a big finger edge, past 2nd bolt, to a jug. Then a funky move off a sidepull, past the 3rd bolt, to reach a horizontal break. It is eases off a bit past the last bolt, but isn't over until you're just below the anchor. Worth doing & even worth repeating.

Richard's description of the start seems rather odd & to the left of th... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Howdy Doody Time (5.11b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 29, 2017

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Comments: In response to Michalm's comment & grade of 5.10c. Wow, I've heard this climb called 5.11a, but 5.10c is really blowing smoke out of your ass. Regarding your comment about the number of bolts & this being a better route if were a trad (mixed gear & bolts) route, I strongly disagree. I think a large number of climbers would disagree with you, too.

First, most of the bolts that could be skipped are not until the middle of the route. So many climbers would start up the climb thinking it wa... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Mighty Aphrodite (5.10)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 29, 2017

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Comments: The intended line at the roof is not to move right around it but rather climb directly over it. It provides an interesting crux finish.
To clarify the start of the climb, it starts with a steep clean slab past 2 past.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Furious Howard Brown (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 26, 2017

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Comments: Definitely one of the best climbs at Sport Park with lots of interesting climbing on great rock. The roof is the unavoidable gymnastic crux, but it is far from over on the face above the lip. The shallow seam & vertical face above the roof is tricky & can feel very insecure. Above the 5th bolt the climbing eases of with relaxing rests on small ledges. A 5.10 section moves right & up to great pocket in a horizontal break. The upper crux past the 8th bolt is quite tricky with poor smears & ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Universal Crag : Palm Pilot (5.13d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 22, 2017

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Comments: Here is some history about this route: I bolted this extremely overhung route with John Baldwin in Fall 1996. Where most of the route was climbable, there was one blank section. The project sat there for 2.5 years. Had someone done it in its natural state, I would have not minded them renaming it. In Spring 1998, I returned & manufactured one jug, because I felt the route would not go free without it. I was able to free all the moves, even though I could barely do the campus move off a crimp aro... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 20, 2017

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Comments: Arch Angel is probably the best climb in Upper Dream Canyon. It would never be climbed if it hadn't been retrobolted. It could even use one more bolt, starting the hard pitch & just above the first anchor. The moves are 5.11a & you will hit the ledge if you fall. A #5 micro stopper (#4 RP) is useful to protect these moves. There are 9 bolts (not 10 bolts) on the crux pitch.

Much of the climbing is difficult liebacking off the arete of the dihedral, but the crux ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Pump Truck (5.12+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 6, 2017

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Comments: A very cool crux. The route has 100% natural holds. The overhanging climbing up to the 3rd bolt & crux isn't very hard. Then get ready for 2 bolts of powerful, technical moves. Wear pants for the left leg lock. If you pre hang a long sling on the 4th bolt, you can have overhead protection for the hardest moves.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : No Doze (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 6, 2017

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Comments: Yes, there are some manufactured holds on this routes & a few crimpers that make me wonder if they were improved from their original state, but so what! If you saw this route before it was established or even after it was first climbed, you wouldn't care. The bottom part of the route was covered in bat shit. After the route was cleaned & decomposed flakes that were permeated with shit were pried off, this route became a masterpiece. One of the best climbs at Sport Park offeri... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Curve of Binding Energy (5.12a/b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 6, 2017

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Comments: I struggle to understand Nathan's comment, regarding if the 2nd bolt was lower it would avoid breaking an angle. First, the landing is quite good, and if you blew the 2nd clip, it is not far to the ground. By bouldering standards, it wouldn't be too bad unless you landed on your back or head. Still avoiding a groundfall is always wise. I ALWAYS STICK CLIP THE 2ND BOLT TO AVOID A GROUNDFALL. Lowering the bolt would make the clip marginally easier, while not... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Pipe Dreams (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 26, 2017

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Comments: I don't know what hold broke at the 2nd bolt. I was on this climb in Fall 2016. It seems like it's the same hard move with small holds that it always was. I have always climbed it just left of 2nd bolt. Perhaps you were trying it more to the right.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Ginseng Rush (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 24, 2017

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Comments: I led the first ascent of this climb in 1985. It had a fixed copperhead & fixed nut to start. From the crux at 4th bolt up to the finish on a big ledge, the climb was protected by removable gear placed on lead. The exact piece had to be placed correctly from a strenuous position. I led it after top roping it & inspecting the gear on rappel.

By 1993, the poor fixed gear was gone. I decided to retro bolt it, as it had seen very few ascents, but has very interesting climbing. It is far better as ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : West Buttress aka Comedy Wa...
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 24, 2017

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Comments: The Comedy Wall is 100 feet uphill left of Divine Wind. Its rightmost route is Practical Joke. The striking overhanging arête left of this is Slap Stick (5.12c/d). I established most of the routes on the wall & named it the Comedy Wall. For complete information refer to my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I".


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Mercy Drilling (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 23, 2017

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Comments: This climb was led in 2001 by Alex Shainman without the bolts & on sight. His partner also led the route on mostly gear but opted to clip the crux bolt. I can think of numerous routes that have been led on gear after being established with bolts. Usually these climbs will still be led with bolts by the majority of climbers. It's fun to climb Mercy Drilling & simply focus on the climbing, without having to fiddle with tricky gear to engineer a safety net.

Other serious, hard... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Stone Cafe : Gruel Shoes (5.8)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 23, 2017

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Comments: We're not living in 1980s anymore, George. If a route is mostly bolt protected, then it is usually best to make it entirely bolt protected. If a climb is mostly bolt protected but requires a piece of two of gear, it presents a danger unless the gear is at the start. Many climbers will assume it is entirely bolted until they are up on the route. Personally I prefer a sport route to mixed gear & bolts route, unless half or more of the climb requires gear.

Ultimately, I believe... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Rastafarian (5.9+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 16, 2017

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Comments: First ascent: Mark Rolofson & Mark Van Horn on June 6, 1981. The route listed in this route description is the easier variation that was done years later. What attracted me to the climb was the thin, right-angling crack start which is solid .10d (originally rated .11a). This start is left of the 5.9 start beginning off a detached flake. A #4 & two #5 RPs ( 5-6 micro stoppers) & small to small medium stoppers are useful.


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