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Member Since: Jul 1, 2010
Last Visit: 22 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,766
Total Points: 385

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Mark Rolofson been climbing?










Contributions


All 726 | Routes 34 | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 244 | Posts 70 | Stars 203 | Ratings 160
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : Boardwalk (5.11b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 26, 2017

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Comments: It has been about 24 years since I last climbed this route. I did it in one pitch using double ropes. Doing it as a two pitch climb should really be rated 5.11b A0, as there is not a no hands rest stance at the belay at the end of the traverse. Led in one pitch, the climb feels like solid 5.11c.

The first rope protects the traverse. The second rope protects the vertical crack.



Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Howdy Doody Time (5.11b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: You're welcome, Rhonda. I'm glad you like the route & Dude's. Thanks for commenting.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : The Twilight Kid (5.10c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 18, 2017

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Comments: First, if you using the tree left of the crux moves at the 5th bolt, you're cheating. The first time I climbed this route, I led it rope solo & didn't argue with the 5.11a grade. The crux is brief, & I can go with 5.10d but not 5.10c or easier. The crux moves are harder than any move on Sidekick (.10d). If you wish to add another hard section, stay left of the 8th bolt, & climb the dihedral via the thin crack.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : The Host (5.11c/d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 11, 2017

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Comments: The climb offers a good warm-up to a powerful crux. I use the face holds to the lip. Then I use a couple hand jams over the lip to pull onto the slab. Last time I did the route I got cut on the back of my hands. Old skin ain't so tough! There is a wide hand jam in the roof, but I have always avoided it. It is really rough with some sharp crystals. I have considered climbing the route with spider mitts so I could use this jam. Instead I have always done the overhanging face moves, whi... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : The Vaino Step (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 11, 2017

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Comments: I have tried this hideous start to The Host a couple times in past years. I have struggled to figure it out. It is quite hard. Probably ought to be called 5.12 not just 5.12a.


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The East Quarry : Tiger's Woody (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: You're welcome, Matt. I'm glad you like the climb. Thanks for your comment.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Black Dog (5.9+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: First ascent: Dianne Barrow & Alan Nelson on October 9, 1999. The climb was originally rated 5.10d. Even though most of the climbing is 5.9 & easier, I have never considered this route to be 5.9+. The crux past 3rd bolt has always felt like solid 5.10 & harder than any move on Dog Breath (unless you climb its direct 5.11 variation above the ledge). The crux must be quite hard if you're short, as it's a reach move. Definitely a great warm-up & a fun climb.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Big Dog (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 28, 2017

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Comments: I afraid you're pretty lame & pretty clueless, Two Chains. Nor brave enough to use your real name. First, I was in no way involved with the first ascent of Fiddler On The Woof. Check my last guidebook to the canyon. I was the first to write guidebooks to this canyon. Secondly, I did not establish any of the manufactured routes at the Sport Park.

Third, yes I have manufactured a few holds in 45 years of my climbing career. The last time I manufactured a hold (with a drill) was in 2000. Big D... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Fiddler on the Woof (5.12-)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 28, 2017

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Comments: First ascent correction to note: I was in no way involved in the first ascent or creation of this route. It was entirely the work of Alan Nelson who bolted & manufactured this route. It was one of the few lines that Alan manufactured in over 30 years of his climbing career. His career encompassed trad, sport, big walls, & scary runout trad routes like Bachar-Yerian. He pioneered many of Clear Creek most classic sport routes. He was the driving force on route development in the canyon throughout ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Independence Wall : Right To Be Wrong (5.11a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 28, 2017

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Comments: This route has significantly improved & cleaned up since I climbed it in 1999. I remember a scary flake at the start. Seems to be gone. I originally agreed with Alan's 5.11c grade. It feels like .10d to .11a to the last bolt. Then the good holds die out & some weird sidepull moves finish. The finish is still the insecure crux.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Independence Wall : Campaign Trail (5.10d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 28, 2017

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Comments: In the sense that this route & Lady Liberty use the same bolts, you could have given the bolt route one name with two distinctly different grades. Lady Liberty feels two to three letter grades harder. They are distinctly different lines that share the same start past 1st bolt & possibly the finish. I can understand why Alan gave them two names. Then again I used to climb with him.

The more reasonable finish is shown in the photo using both seams. Stay in the left seam finishing left of the anch... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Independence Wall : Lady Liberty (5.11a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 28, 2017

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Comments: Definitely much harder than Campaign Trail. Interesting moves with some big reaches & sidepull lieback moves.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : The Icebox : Queen Byron (5.11c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 23, 2017

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Comments: Great climb. It's been a decade or more since I climbed it, but I remember that move over the small roof (bulge) to reach the undercling in the next roof as feeling hard. Almost .12a. I climbed it on a few occasions.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Sports Crag : Shock the Monkey (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 23, 2017

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Comments: Here is a correction on the FA date: Fall 1983. This info can be found in an old Climbing magazine (#82 - February 1984). This route was climbed on the same day as the first ascent of "Moonage Daydream" (.12b) by Rolofson & D'Antonio.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Economy Cliff : Inflation (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 21, 2017

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Comments: Fun climb. There is a hard move past the 1st bolt (5.11ish). From here the climb is a juggy warm up to the 9th bolt. Then make a huge crux dyno to start the overhanging headwall. Interesting .12a moves lead past the last 2 bolts. There are 11 bolts (not 10)/ 2 rings.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Economy Cliff : Buy Gold (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 21, 2017

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Comments: A stick clip is useful for the 1st bolt. The route starts on a small ledge above a sloping, dirt hillside. Green, yellow or red Aliens are useful to anchor the belayer.

Easiest climb to be rated .12a in Clear Creek. The rock quality on the upper headwall is quite good. There is a big ledge at the base of the headwall, that makes it hard for your belayer to see you. There is ledgefall potential. Getting to the 9th bolt (3rd bolt on the headwall) seemed a bit run out considering the ledge below. ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Economy Cliff : Buy Low, Sell High (5.11c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 21, 2017

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Comments: This climb is definitely harder than Buy Gold (rated .12a but more like .11c). The grades of these two climbs could be switched. I think this is the better climb of the two as well. Good climbing the whole way.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Vedavoodoo Boulder : Whistling Jupiter (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 20, 2017

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Comments: It has been a very long time since I did this route in 1989. I seem to remember 5 bolts. Are there only 4? After the tricky crux start I remember a .10d /11a run-out section past 3rd (?) bolt to reach a ledge. I also remember a 5.12 second crux finish past the last two bolts.

The climb was originally rated .12c. Skinner & Piana freed the Salathe Wall in 1988 (not 1989).


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : In the Groove (5.10b/c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 20, 2017

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Comments: I originally rated this route 5.10d. I can fully understand how you think this route is .11a, Carolyn. At first I was thinking it was that hard. It is a sandbag at .10b/c.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Visor : Rubberneck (5.12-)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 20, 2017

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Comments: This route is NOT manufactured, unless you count the jug on Dyno Monkey to the left. Rubberneck was one of the first two routes on The Visor. The moves past the 4th bolt originally had to be climbed up the thin, shallow, vertical crack to reach the natural hueco below 5th bolt. It is now possible to reach left off the thin crack to the manufactured jug on Dyno Monkey then reach the hueco on Rubberneck, making this section easier. Still the crux is the big dyno past the 5th bolt.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Creature from the Black Lag... (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 17, 2017

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Comments: This route requires a 60 meter (200 ft) rope to descend, not a 50 meter (165ft.) rope. Secondly, it is not fully bolted & requires one or two pieces of gear to protect the 5.10 start shared with "Twistin by The Pool". I place a # 1 Camalot or a #2.5 Friend plus a 1.5" cam (side by side).
Great route with a crux that is strenuous for the Oceanic Wall.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : River Dance (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 12, 2017

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Comments: You could definitely rate this climb .12a/b. It always felt a bit easier than White Water I will stick with the .12b rating. I haven't climbed it since 2006 but climbed it a few times between 1998 & 2006. Unlike White Water, both the lower face & the finish are .12a/b.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : White Water (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 12, 2017

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Comments: I can't say I really agree that there is no move harder than .11d. I haven't climbed this route since 2006, but between 1998 & 2006, I climbed it several times. The vertical face climbing above the boulder getting to the roof is arguably .12a. The crux move over the lip of the roof always felt like .12a/b. It has been a long time, but I remember a dyno to a good hold but off not so great holds. The climbing on the upper wall felt like .11d.

Definitely harder than Adventure Kayak Trundle... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : Viagra Falls (5.12b/c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 12, 2017

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Comments: I haven't climbed this route since 2001, but figured I'd add some info. Gently overhanging climbing leads up to the 2nd bolt & then traverses left into a right-facing corner. The corner leads to a small overhang & 3rd bolt. The crux is at the 3rd bolt. It involves an intricate vertical face traverse right below the small overhang. The 4th bolt is just over the lip, & it is a tricky clip off an undercling. This is followed by a big reach off the undercling up right to a jug. Don't ski... more >>


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : Goldshut Arete (5.11b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 11, 2017

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Comments: There are two ways to get to the anchor. The easier way moves right onto Fire On The Mountain for more moderate terrain & reaches back left to the anchor. For full value & a crux finish, climb the smooth slab directly up the right side of the arete (.11c/d) past the last bolt. I thought the lower crux at the 3rd bolt was .11c.


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