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Member Since: Jul 1, 2010
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Mark Rolofson

Point Rank: # 1,818
Total Points: 365

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Mark Rolofson been climbing?










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All 619 | Routes 32 | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 205 | Posts 70 | Stars 168 | Ratings 129
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Economy Cliff : Inflation (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Fun climb. There is a hard move past the 1st bolt (5.11ish). From here the climb is a juggy warm up to the 9th bolt. Then make a huge crux dyno to start the overhanging headwall. Interesting .12a moves lead past the last 2 bolts. There are 11 bolts (not 10)/ 2 rings.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Economy Cliff : Buy Gold (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 1 day ago

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Comments: A stick clip is useful for the 1st bolt. The route starts on a small ledge above a sloping dirt hillside. Green, yellow or Red Aliens are useful to anchor the belayer.
Easiest climb to be rated .12a in Clear Creek. The rock quality on the upper headwall is quite good. There is a big ledge at the base of the headwall, that makes it hard for your belayer to see you. There is ledge fall potential. Getting to the 9th bolt (3rd bolt on the headwall) seemed a bit run out considering the ledge below. I... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Economy Cliff : Buy Low, Sell High (5.11c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 1 day ago

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Comments: This climb is definitely harder than Buy Gold (rated .12a but more like .11c). The grades of these two climbs could be switched. I think this is the better climb of the two as well. Good climbing the whole way.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Vedavoodoo Boulder : Whistling Jupiter (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 2 days ago

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Comments: It has been a very long time since I did this route in 1989. I seem to remember 5 bolts. Are there only 4? After the tricky crux start I remember a .10d /11a run-out section past 3rd bolt? to reach a ledge. I also remember a 5.12 second crux finish past the last two bolts.
The climb was originally rated .12c. Skinner & Piana freed the Salathe Wall in 1988 (not 1989).


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : In the Groove (5.10b/c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I originally rated this route 5.10d. I can fully understand how you think this route is .11a, Carolyn. At first I was thinking it was that hard. It is a sandbag at .10b/c.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Visor : Rubberneck (5.12-)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 3 days ago

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Comments: This route is NOT manufactured, unless you count the jug on Dyno Monkey to the left. Rubberneck was one of the first two routes on The Visor. The moves past the 4th bolt originally had to be climbed up the thin shallow vertical crack to reach the natural hueco below 5th bolt. It is now possible to reach left off the thin crack to the manufactured jug on Dyno Monkey then reach the hueco on Rubberneck, making this section easier. Still the crux is the big dyno past the 5th bolt.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Creature from the Black Lag... (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 5 days ago

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Comments: This route requires a 60 meter (200 ft) rope to descend, not a 50 meter (165ft.) rope. Secondly, it is not fully bolted & requires one or two pieces of gear to protect the 5.10 start shared with "Twistin by The Pool". I place a # 1 Camalot or a #2.5 Friend plus a 1.5" cam (side by side).
Great route with a crux that is strenuous for the Oceanic Wall.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : River Dance (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 12, 2017

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Comments: You could definitely rate this climb .12a/b. It always felt a bit easier than White Water I will stick with the .12b rating. I haven't climbed it since 2006 but climbed it a few times between 1998 & 2006. Unlike White Water, both the lower face & the finish are .12a/b.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : White Water (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 12, 2017

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Comments: I can't say I really agree that there is no move harder than .11d. I haven't climbed this route since 2006, but between 1998 & 2006, I climbed it several times. The vertical face climbing above the boulder getting to the roof is arguably .12a. The crux move over the lip of the roof always felt like .12a/b. It has been a long time, but I remember a dyno to a good hold but off not so great holds. The climbing on the upper wall felt like .11d.

Definitely harder than Adventure Kayak Trundle... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : Viagra Falls (5.12b/c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 12, 2017

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Comments: I haven't climbed this route since 2001, but figured I'd add some info. Gently overhanging climbing leads up to the 2nd bolt & then traverses left into a right-facing corner. The corner leads to a small overhang & 3rd bolt. The crux is at the 3rd bolt. It involves an intricate vertical face traverse right below the small overhang. The 4th bolt is just over the lip, & it is a tricky clip off an undercling. This is followed by a big reach off the undercling up right to a jug. Don't ski... more >>


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : Goldshut Arete (5.11b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 11, 2017

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Comments: There are two ways to get to the anchor. The easier way moves right onto Fire On The Mountain for more moderate terrain & reaches back left to the anchor. For full value & a crux finish, climb the smooth slab directly up the right side of the arete (.11c/d) past the last bolt. I thought the lower crux at the 3rd bolt was .11c.


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Fang : Belligerent Buttress (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 11, 2017

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Comments: This was the first route that I established at the crag in September 1992. It was the first sport route on the crag, too. There are three hard sections. The start, pulling over the roof, & getting established on the face above is the first hard section (.12a). Then gain a great rest. The second obstacle ascends a steep slab with a seam up the right side of the prow (.12a). The crux is the finish up the overhanging prow (.12b). Fun route with relatively friendly holds. There are 9 bolts / 2 bolt ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : Europithacus (5.11b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 10, 2017

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Comments: A total sandbag at 5.11b. More like 5.12a. I had climbed at the Trojan Bunny Buttress for the first time in Summer 2001. I returned in May-June 2002, with Blake Treadway only to find that the bolts on this route had been removed. After replacing the bolts, we made the first ascent of a 3 bolt direct start (5.11d) that is downhill & left of the easy start.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa : Longbow Chimney (5.8 A1)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 10, 2017

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Comments: Hi Mack Johnson. You climbed this route with me on March 25, 1978 on the same trip we made two first ascents of short unclimbed spires (Baby Sister & Family Member) in the Sister Superior Group). You & I made the 2nd ascent of this route on the Crooked Arrow Spire. There was a summit register in a plastic bottle. I have a few slides of our ascent, including ones of you on the summit.

Those were great times in the Castle Valley. The four of us that went on that Spring Break trip were probably... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Unknown (5.9)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: There is ledge fall potential above the 2nd bolt. Be careful.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Unknown Variation (5.10-)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: The route has 4 bolts. Definitely committing getting to the 3rd bolt. Best not to fall. There is a good, vertical edge system on the right. Another bolt between the 2nd & 3rd bolt would be nice, but it's no big deal if you are climbing 5.11+ or harder. I have never thought the crux past 3rd bolt was only 5.10-. Very solid 5.10 crux. The rest of the climb is 5.9 & easier.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Turkey Neck Direct (5.11+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: Excellent climb. The vertical face climbing past 2nd bolt to 4th bolt is 5.11b & quite fun. Then shake out under the roof before a tricky, powerful crux. The roof crux has sloping pinch holds, sidepulls, & a dyno to the turkey neck jug. Still tricky past the last bolt. Worth doing & repeating.


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : Botany of Desire (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 5, 2017

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Comments: Bernard, you didn't tell me that the route was almost 5.13b when we climbed together at the Trojan Bunny Buttress in Summer 2003. You had not tried the climb yet. You had called me a few times between 2003 & 2007 to ask me for route information. So I vividly remember you talking about Botany Of Desire & its rating. Yes, you can deny it, as there is no recording of those conversations.

Secondly, regarding my documentation as "grabbing or clipping the anchor". I wrote it this way, b... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Universal Crag : Palm Pilot (5.13d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 30, 2017

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Comments: Very easy to criticize, Jason. Not that your opinion really matters to me. There are no shortage of zealots & armchair quarterbacks. Have you climbed the route? Clearly Jimmy Redo was proud enough of his send to post & rename the route.

In 45 years of climbing & hundreds of first ascents, I have manufactured only a handful of holds. It isn't something I take lightly. I prefer to put up 100% natural lines & 99% of my routes are. That said, I came to realize that the rock has some limitation... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Howdy Doody Time (5.11b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 30, 2017

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Comments: I should add that this route was equipped & cleaned by Kirk Miller. I only placed the 5th bolt. This was added after Kirk led it without. I felt the 5th bolt was wanted to protect some hard moves climbing right & then up a short arete. Kirk agreed & I added the 5th bolt. Kirk was also the first to redpoint the climb the day of our first ascent. First ascent was on September 21, 2003.

I think Kirk did an excellent job equipping the route, & it is bolted perfectly. Over the past 13.5 years, I ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Dude's Jam Crack (5.11a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 29, 2017

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Comments: A fun crack climb with a thin crux using some face holds getting over the first roof. I don't agree the climb is only .10c. Both roofs felt like .11a & the first one maybe as hard as .11a/b.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Chili Power (5.11)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 29, 2017

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Comments: First ascent: Mark Rolofson on July 12, 2003. I have always felt this climb was at least 5.11d. I rated it 5.11d/12a. A short, overhanging route with a dyno off a big finger edge, past 2nd bolt, to a jug. Then a funky move off a sidepull, past the 3rd bolt, to reach a horizontal break. It is eases off a bit past the last bolt, but isn't over until you're just below the anchor. Worth doing & even worth repeating.

Richard's description of the start seems rather odd & to the left of th... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Howdy Doody Time (5.11b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 29, 2017

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Comments: In response to Michalm's comment & grade of 5.10c. Wow, I've heard this climb called 5.11a, but 5.10c is really blowing smoke out of your ass. Regarding your comment about the number of bolts & this being a better route if were a trad (mixed gear & bolts) route, I strongly disagree. I think a large number of climbers would disagree with you, too.

First, most of the bolts that could be skipped are not until the middle of the route. So many climbers would start up the climb thinking it wa... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Mighty Aphrodite (5.10)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 29, 2017

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Comments: The intended line at the roof is not to move right around it but rather climb directly over it. It provides an interesting crux finish.
To clarify the start of the climb, it starts with a steep clean slab past 2 past.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Furious Howard Brown (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 26, 2017

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Comments: Definitely one of the best climbs at Sport Park with lots of interesting climbing on great rock. The roof is the unavoidable gymnastic crux, but it is far from over on the face above the lip. The shallow seam & vertical face above the roof is tricky & can feel very insecure. Above the 5th bolt the climbing eases of with relaxing rests on small ledges. A 5.10 section moves right & up to great pocket in a horizontal break. The upper crux past the 8th bolt is quite tricky with poor smears & ... more >>


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