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Member Since: Jul 1, 2010
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Mark Rolofson

Point Rank: # 2,057
Total Points: 305

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Mark Rolofson been climbing?










Contributions


All 538 | Routes 26 | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 181 | Posts 66 | Stars 141 | Ratings 109
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Furious Howard Brown (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Definitely one of the best climbs at Sport Park with lots of interesting climbing on great rock. The roof is the unavoidable gymnastic crux, but it is far from over on the face above the lip. The shallow seam & vertical face above the roof is tricky & can feel very insecure. Above the 5th bolt the climbing eases of with relaxing rests on small ledges. A 5.10 section moves right & up to great pocket in a horizontal break. The upper crux past the 8th bolt is quite tricky with poor smears & ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Universal Crag : Palm Pilot (5.13d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Here is some history about this route: I bolted this extremely overhung route with John Baldwin in Fall 1996. Where most of the route was climbable, there was one blank section. The project sat there for 2.5 years. Had someone done it in its natural state, I would have not minded them renaming it. In Spring 1998, I returned & manufactured one jug, because I felt the route would not go free without it. I was able to free all the moves, even though I could barely do the campus move off a crimp aro... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 20, 2017

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Comments: Arch Angel is probably the best climb in Upper Dream Canyon. It would never be climbed if it hadn't been retrobolted. It could even use one more bolt, starting the hard pitch & just above the first anchor. The moves are 5.11a & you will hit the ledge if you fall. A #5 micro stopper (#4 RP) is useful to protect these moves. There are 9 bolts (not 10 bolts) on the crux pitch.

Much of the climbing is difficult liebacking off the arete of the dihedral, but the crux ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Pump Truck (5.12+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 6, 2017

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Comments: A very cool crux. The route has 100% natural holds. The overhanging climbing up to the 3rd bolt & crux isn't very hard. Then get ready for 2 bolts of powerful, technical moves. Wear pants for the left leg lock. If you pre hang a long sling on the 4th bolt, you can have overhead protection for the hardest moves.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : No Doze (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 6, 2017

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Comments: Yes, there are some manufactured holds on this routes & a few crimpers that make me wonder if they were improved from their original state, but so what! If you saw this route before it was established or even after it was first climbed, you wouldn't care. The bottom part of the route was covered in bat shit. After the route was cleaned & decomposed flakes that were permeated with shit were pried off, this route became a masterpiece. One of the best climbs at Sport Park offeri... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Curve of Binding Energy (5.12a/b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 6, 2017

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Comments: I struggle to understand Nathan's comment, regarding if the 2nd bolt was lower it would avoid breaking an angle. First, the landing is quite good, and if you blew the 2nd clip, it is not far to the ground. By bouldering standards, it wouldn't be too bad unless you landed on your back or head. Still avoiding a groundfall is always wise. I ALWAYS STICK CLIP THE 2ND BOLT TO AVOID A GROUNDFALL. Lowering the bolt would make the clip marginally easier, while not... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Pipe Dreams (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 26, 2017

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Comments: I don't know what hold broke at the 2nd bolt. I was on this climb in Fall 2016. It seems like it's the same hard move with small holds that it always was. I have always climbed it just left of 2nd bolt. Perhaps you were trying it more to the right.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Ginseng Rush (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 24, 2017

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Comments: I led the first ascent of this climb in 1985. It had a fixed copperhead & fixed nut to start. From the crux at 4th bolt up to the finish on a big ledge, the climb was protected by removable gear placed on lead. The exact piece had to be placed correctly from a strenuous position. I led it after top roping it & inspecting the gear on rappel.

By 1993, the poor fixed gear was gone. I decided to retro bolt it, as it had seen very few ascents, but has very interesting climbing. It is far better as ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : West Buttress aka Comedy Wa...
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 24, 2017

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Comments: The Comedy Wall is 100 feet uphill left of Divine Wind. Its rightmost route is Practical Joke. The striking overhanging arête left of this is Slap Stick (5.12c/d). I established most of the routes on the wall & named it the Comedy Wall. For complete information refer to my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I".


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Mercy Drilling (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 23, 2017

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Comments: This climb was led in 2001 by Alex Shainman without the bolts & on sight. His partner also led the route on mostly gear but opted to clip the crux bolt. I can think of numerous routes that have been led on gear after being established with bolts. Usually these climbs will still be led with bolts by the majority of climbers. It's fun to climb Mercy Drilling & simply focus on the climbing, without having to fiddle with tricky gear to engineer a safety net.

Other serious, hard... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Stone Cafe : Gruel Shoes (5.8)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 23, 2017

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Comments: We're not living in 1980s anymore, George. If a route is mostly bolt protected, then it is usually best to make it entirely bolt protected. If a climb is mostly bolt protected but requires a piece of two of gear, it presents a danger unless the gear is at the start. Many climbers will assume it is entirely bolted until they are up on the route. Personally I prefer a sport route to mixed gear & bolts route, unless half or more of the climb requires gear.

Ultimately, I believe... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Rastafarian (5.9+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 16, 2017

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Comments: First ascent: Mark Rolofson & Mark Van Horn on June 6, 1981. The route listed in this route description is the easier variation that was done years later. What attracted me to the climb was the thin, right-angling crack start which is solid .10d (originally rated .11a). This start is left of the 5.9 start beginning off a detached flake. A #4 & two #5 RPs ( 5-6 micro stoppers) & small to small medium stoppers are useful.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Baditude (5.10d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 16, 2017

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Comments: After Leitner & I were done establishing routes, Richard Wright & Alan Nelson established two more lines.
I have climbed this route twice, & that's enough. First, the moves to the 2nd bolt aren't nicely protected. What's far worse is climbing on the large, scary, expanding flake up the overhanging section. I don't trust it will always be there.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Lady Of The Light (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 16, 2017

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Comments: First ascent: Mark Rolofson, Rick Leitner & Rho Green on December 13, 1997. This was the first route on the crag. The climb was named in memory of Elaine Chandler who died on December 5, 1997 from an illness. She was a climber, hang glider, graphic artist. She started the Sport Climbing Connection - a climbing magazine published in the early 1990s.

A short easy slab lead past 1st bolt to the overhanging face. The climbing is fun & gets progressively harder with a redpoint crux finish. There a... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : The Homesteader (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 15, 2017

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Comments: This climb has two starts using the same bolts. Left of the first bolt using the jug & thin crack is .11a. Right of the first bolt on the arete is .11d. There are 6 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. The left start is the more common start.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Ice Hose Chopper Lunch Mob (5.11-)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 15, 2017

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Comments: First ascent: Mark Rolofson, Ken Trout, Rick Leitner & Chris Alber on Jan. 24, 1998. There are 4 bolts / 2 rings. I never thought it felt as easy as .11a.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Waves on the Beach (5.10c/d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 15, 2017

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Comments: First ascent: Dianne Barrow, Mark Rolofson, Rick Leitner, & Chris Alber in January 1998. Gotta love the rating system & the psychology behind it. I climbed this route numerous times, & I'll stick with .11a. Perhaps it can be climbed less direct at the crux. Great pitch with good rock.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho...
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 15, 2017

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Comments: For complete & accurate route info please refer to my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I - Lower Narrows & Dream Canyon". Rick Leitner & I established most of these routes from December 1997 to March 1998. While climbing at Upper Security Risk Crag in December, I noticed the sun stayed on the south-facing wall, that soon became Lady Of The Light on the Solar Dome, until 4:30pm. With the sun setting at Upper Se... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Frothing Green (5.10d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 12, 2017

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Comments: I just watched a woman get lowered off the end of her rope on this route. She didn't stop on the narrow ledge at the base but fell down the 20 ft slab below & rolled about 40 feet down the hill. She managed to walk down the hill with a cut on the back of her head. She said she felt dizzy. Her partner was driving her straight to the hospital.

Always tie a knot in the end of your rope to prevent what happened. I am glad to see the above route description mentions this climb is... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Quarry Wall : Kleptocracy (5.13-)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 3, 2017

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Comments: I haven't been on this route since March 2009, but the crux is still burned into my mind. Here's some beta for a tall person: above the overlap, left hand on the angling jug, right hand just above it on the sidepull. Tape your baby finger of your right hand at second joint to avoid getting a nasty cut. Right foot just above the overlap on a small vertical edge to push against. Left foot is below the overlap & the problem is where to put it. If I put it on ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Big Dog (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 3, 2017

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Comments: I should mention the facts regarding the belief that this climb has two or more drilled holds. There is one drilled hold. The undercling above the 5th bolt was manufactured with a drill to replace a hold that Alan pulled off while first equipping the route. The bottom & most overhanging part of the climb had much loose rock that had to be pulled or pried off. I did reinforce a key few holds so they would not be pulled off.

The pocket above the 8th bolt is 100% natural. No drilling. Some natural... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Big Dog (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 2, 2017

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Comments: Slim, there is a huge difference between bolting a route you can't send & having fixed draws on a route that was climbed for over a decade without them. First, I fixed the chain draws on Mighty Dog in 2006, after 7 years after it was first climbed. Cleaning draws off Mighty Dog was not only difficult, but it is bad for the rope running over the sharp lip of the roof. By contrast, cleaning the draws off Big Dog isn't bad & doesn't put e... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Eleven Cent Moon (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 5, 2017

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Comments: Excellent climb. I have always placed overhead pro for the crux face moves near the finish. The left-facing dihedral involves 5.10 liebacking protected by RPs to where it blanks out & the crux moves are encountered. I have always pre-strung 2 wired stoppers together to have the added reach to place a #6-7 stopper in the bottom of the finger lock the crux ends at.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Currey's Diagonal (5.10b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 5, 2017

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Comments: Currey's Diagonal is one of a kind. There are very climbs like this one. One of the best trad pitches anywhere, especially if you like thin seam cracks that require face climbing moves. You've got to love Vedauwoo ratings. I first climbed this route in 1980 when there were 4 fixed pitons before the tree. I last climbed it in 2010 with 2 pitons remaining but found great gear with small Aliens & RPs. I have never considered this route to be only .10b & have... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Reading Raymond Chandler (a... (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 5, 2017

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Comments: I belayed Paul Piana on the first ascent of this climb on July 19, 1982. Todd Skinner was not involved. Piana had pre-placed a fixed piton to protect the crux. After Piana cruised up the pitch, I tried to toprope it, but the crux move shut me down. The rest of the climb felt like 5.11.

In 1987, I returned & finally succeeded at leading the climb free. Since 1983, I had led 11 Cent Moon & top-roped Static Cling several times. Both climbs seemed much easier than Reading Raymond Chandler. The cru... more >>


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