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Member Since: Jul 1, 2010
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact Mark Rolofson

Point Rank: # 1,764
Total Points: 385

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Mark Rolofson been climbing?










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All 726 | Routes 34 | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 244 | Posts 70 | Stars 203 | Ratings 160
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Wendell Spire : Song of the Wood (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 14 hours ago

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Comments: The best route I have done at Castlewood Canyon. A powerful overhanging start with big holds followed by sustained climbing above, on mostly good stone, best characterize this climb. Definitely stick clip the 2nd bolt. The rock the 1st bolt is in looks questionable & it is too low to nicely protect the crux moves to the lip of the first overhang. Above the 2nd bolt, interesting 5.11 climbing leads up a gently overhung face to the second roof. Pulling this .12a roof is the redpoint crux.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitc... (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 16 hours ago

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Comments: I climbed the entire route in 1981 with visiting British climber John Allen. I climbed it again in 1982 with Hugh Herr (who was the first & maybe only person to climb the route with prosthetic lower legs). I climbed the first pitch numerous times between 1981 & 1984.

Pitch 2 ascends the slab with a very thin crack protected by RPs & small stoppers. Reach a horizontal break & clip a bolt. Traverse right to join Roofus at its semi hanging belay. We rated this pitch 5.10d.

Pitch 3 is the ... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Elk Creek Spires : Chimney Rock : The Learning Curve (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 22 hours ago

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Comments: Great route, but there a few things about the way this route is equipped that I have criticize. First, what I liked about it was the fact that in one long pitch, you get a warm up followed by continuous 5.12 climbing, followed by even harder crux climbing. There are good rests between each section.

Now for what I didn't like. First, at the top of warm up climbing (5.10d/11a) the route gains a good shelf & traverses right. The 7th? bolt that you clip from the shelf is so far left, you mu... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Evermore (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Regardless of how you do the climbing getting to the last the last bolt, there are still two sections of 5.12 moves in a row. At the 7th bolt & the crux at the 8th (last) bolt. Traversing left out of the rest on Eleanor to reach the 7th bolt isn't hard.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Chickenshit Armchair Enviro... (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 1 day ago

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Comments: I gave this route one star in a 5 star system in "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II". I have been up the route, but I have not redpointed it. I have no intention of ever going back. This route is a good way to strain or injure your left shoulder on the crux. The crux is brief, then a few 5.11 jug moves finish. There is no anchor, unless you traverse right to Trustafarian Panhandler. Then someone must second it. Otherwise, you must downaid the roof,... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Road To Emmaus (5.11a/b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 1 day ago

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Comments: It has probably been over a decade since I last did this climb, but I did it a couple times at least. Alan wasn't trying to contrive a "bouldery, lip encounter" problem on pitch 2. I do remember using a big undercling on the right. As for the rating, I don't have a strong opinion, except to say I don't think it is only .11a. I was climbing quite strong in 2000 & climbing a lot. 4 times a week & sometimes 10 pitches of 5.11a to 5.13a in a day.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : New Test Of Men (5.11+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Certainly, a memorable route & one I have repeated several times since Alan & I made the first ascent on September 16, 2000. We originally rated it 5.12a, but I think it isn't quite that hard & I call 5.11d. The moves past the 2nd & 3rd bolt on pitch 2 are the crux, but the redpoint crux is the finish. Lots of 5.11 climbing on Pitch 2. I find it slightly more difficult than Elanor (which I have pretty wired). I would say they are the same grade.
The moves at the start of pitch 1, have ... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fringe Walls : Cactus Flower (5.10+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 5 days ago

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Comments: First ascent was actually on May 31, 1978, before either of us had Friends. We rated it 5.10. The gear was Hexes & stoppers. The biggest gear we had was two #11 Hexes. It was very scary climbing desert cracks without camming devices. Ed had already established the first pitch on a previous date, but rappelled off after drilling the two pin anchor. So the day we made the first ascent, I led the first pitch & Ed led the upper two pitches.

The first half of the second pitch was protected by ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Lookout : Burnt Toast (5.11c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: I stick clipped the 1st bolt. There is an empty & probably partially drilled bolt hole at the start. I have always thought plugging it with a bolt would be wise. Especially considering that the climb starts on a ledge with a cliff below. Very cool climbing & one of the better routes on the wall.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Hideout : Claim Jumper (5.10c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: First ascent date was February 28, 2004. Some interesting climbing. Harder than it looks.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Hideout : Grubstake (5.11b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: First ascent: Mark Rolofson & Vaino Kodas on February 10, 2004. 2003 date in my guidebook is a typo error. I have never thought of this route as contrived, even though it would be possible to continue climbing up right on the diagonal crack. This would be a different route, require gear & end at a different spot. After clipping the 2nd bolt above the ledge (4 bolt on the climb), I bust out left & ascend the face. Fun climbing on good rock. There are 6 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Lookout : Dozer Rage (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: Rather amusing to think of bouldering this route with pads & spotters. Especially considering the consequences of rolling down the slab below & over a cliff, then down another hill & over the Bowling Alley. No thanks, I think I'll pass on that idea. That is why I bolted this route. Quite engaging climbing for a short route with the crux past the 3rd bolt, followed another hard move past the 4th bolt. The line really caught my attention years before I bolted it. It was worth the effort ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Lookout : Armor Plated (5.12b/c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: First ascent: Mark Rolofson on August 26, 2004. I repeated the climb months to a year later. I haven't been back in over a decade, so I won't insist that the grade I gave it of 5.12b/c is correct. It definitely felt harder than Blue Flame or The Harder They Come. It is short, but I find it hard to believe this route is only 5.11 & not at least 5.12a/b.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Lookout : Granby (5.9)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: Funny that you guys thought this route was worth two stars. I guess I should say thank you. I thought it barely deserved one star on a 5 star system. Interesting moves to start it & then its pretty easy to the anchor.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Zoo : Primate Studies (5.11c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: Hard for the grade. I have always thought this climb was 5.11+, & I would give it a PG-13 rating. There is a 20 foot runout between the 6th & 7th bolt on juggy, moderate terrain. However, you must get your feet up & stretch up to reach the 7th bolt. Thankfully there is a nice, incut jug.

Perhaps, even more concerning is location of the 3rd bolt, out right of the cracks you are climbing. The moves get hard here & involves a vertical, thin crack for the right hand & a diagonal crack for the left.... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Never a Dull Moment (5.12b PG13)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: I haven't led first two pitches of this climb since 1986. I used to combine these pitches as one, using double ropes. I can understand how someone would call this 5.12b, especially since the block is gone past the crux moves of the crack. After some desperate lieback moves, a juggy wedged block was reached. The block moved but didn't pull off, because it sat a big slot that opened up in the thin crack corner. The jug / block gave you a good place to shake out before the final 10 feet of ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Bell Buster (5.11a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: Michalm has a rather unrealistic attitude towards sport climbs. Having to bring one piece gear to place off route & left of the 5th bolt sets up a dangerous situation for many climbers who think the route will be all bolts. I do remember coming quite close to Double Jeopardy's bush infested corner on the upper section of the route. Not a pretty trad line & one to avoid.

Don't assume that the FA team were just a bunch of sport climbers. We all have had extensive trad experience since th... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : The Purpose (5.12)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: It is most interesting to read Alex's posting of his route. Most of it is accurate. What I find rather amusing, but also a bit disturbing, is the statement that Alex was okay with Steve chopping the route. I did talk to both Alex & Jeff on several occasions about the route & its removal, over the course of a year, before I decided to go toprope on it. I remember both Alex & Jeff being rather upset & disgruntled that their route had been removed. After toproping The Purpose, I saw no reason t... more >>


Location: Colorado : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : The Zipper (5.11d A0 PG13)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 13, 2017

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Comments: This is a very memorable route & one that caught my eye & imagination many years before I climbed it. It has been over 33 years since I last climbed it.
I used a #4 Friend in the shallow horizontal crack to protect the traverse from the belay atop Fastest Drill to reach the drilled pins on the route. It would be nice to add a bolt to protect the traverse, so a big cam wasn't needed.

Once at the drilled pins, I thought the next moves leading upward were the first crux. The face is bulging he... more >>


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads : Black See : Lump (5.11b/c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 8, 2017

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Comments: There are only 4 bolts. The crux is near vertical start past the first 2 bolts. Then, a pretty run-out slab, (but not too hard) leads to the 3rd bolt. I remember some exciting climbing on the upper part. The bolting is old school & a bit on the scary side.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads : Black See : Chump (5.11c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 8, 2017

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Comments: For a short route, this is very worthwhile. Quite overhanging & sustained for 3 bolts. A stick clip is useful for the hard start.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Land of the Rising Moon : Blade Runner (5.11b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 30, 2017

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Comments: When I climbed this route in 1983, it didn't have fixed copperheads. I remember repeating it in the late 1980s, & the heads had been placed. It was most unfortunate. The climb was originally protected with good RPs for the bottom tips lieback & marginal RPs for the finish. The finish wasn't that dangerous, because there are good medium stopper placements at your feet when you are doing the upper crux. I remember placing a #2 steel nut (RP) & a keyholed #5? overhead. I took a short fall &... more >>


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads : Ironsides : High Seas (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 28, 2017

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Comments: This climb & Alloy Madness are the two best climbs on Iron Sides. I managed the onsight on this climb & repeated it first try as well. That said, the upper half of the climb get progressively harder the higher you climb. I would rate it 5.11d/12a. The steep face is less than vertical (80-85 degrees), so fighting a forearm pump wasn't a big issue. Rather reading the moves & trusting your feet. I thought the redpoint crux was getting to the last bolt, involving an insecure high step smearing ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : ... : Neurosurgeon (5.12a R)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 27, 2017

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Comments: According to a old Mountain magazine, Mark Wilford led the first ascent of this route calling it 5.12. My understanding is that he did the 5.9 indirect finish (that traverses right where the crack ends & climbs face on the right side of the arete). Paul Piana was the first to lead the climb with its scary direct finish up the face. Paul told me this in a conversation, this is scary 5.11 R/X face climbing with very little pro. It is not PG/R.

I climbed the route numerous times between 1986 & 199... more >>


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : ... : Big, Big, Monkey Man (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 27, 2017

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Comments: Thanks to Angus & Greg for replacing the old 3/8" diameter bolts placed in 1985 on this route. This is one of the best overhanging 5.12b routes on the Front Range. Great pump & friendly holds. It was an old favorite of mine that I climbed in 1987 & last repeated in November 1990.

First ascent: Paul Piana in 1985 This route was one of a new generation of rappel bolted climbs in the 1980s. 1985 saw the first ascents several rappel bolted climbs including Paris Girls in Eldo (5.13a R/X), Ra... more >>


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