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Member Since: Jul 1, 2010
Last Visit: Jan 5, 2017
Contact Mark Rolofson

Point Rank: # 2,295
Total Points: 255

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Mark Rolofson been climbing?










Contributions


All 455 | Routes 21 | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 159 | Posts 42 | Stars 123 | Ratings 95
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Eleven Cent Moon (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 5, 2017

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Comments: Excellent climb. I have always placed overhead pro for the crux face moves near the finish. The left-facing dihedral involves 5.10 liebacking protected by RPs to where it blanks out & the crux moves are encountered. I have always pre-strung 2 wired stoppers together to have the added reach to place a #6-7 stopper in the bottom of the finger lock the crux ends at.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Currey's Diagonal (5.10b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 5, 2017

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Comments: Currey's Diagonal is one of a kind. There are very climbs like this one. One of the best trad pitches anywhere, especially if you like thin seam cracks that require face climbing moves. You've got to love Vedauwoo ratings. I first climbed this route in 1980 when there were 4 fixed pitons before the tree. I last climbed it in 2010 with 2 pitons remaining but found great gear with small Aliens & RPs. I have never considered this route to be only .10b & have... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Reading Raymond Chandler (a... (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 5, 2017

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Comments: I belayed Paul Piana on the first ascent of this climb on July 19, 1982. Todd Skinner was not involved. Piana had pre-placed a fixed piton to protect the crux. After Piana cruised up the pitch, I tried to toprope it, but the crux move shut me down. The rest of the climb felt like 5.11.

In 1987, I returned & finally succeeded at leading the climb free. Since 1983, I had led 11 Cent Moon & top-roped Static Cling several times. Both climbs seemed much easier than Reading Raymond Chandler. The cru... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The East Quarry : Slap Happy (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 5, 2017

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Comments: A great climb with friendly handholds, that is worth repeating. When I documented this climb in my guidebook "Golden Rock Climbs" (2010) I rated it 5.11d/12a. Having done it many times over the years, I think it is more 12a than .11d, unless you've got it wired. I always stick clip the 1st bolt & stick clip a medium quickdraw on the 2nd bolt. With the draw on the 2nd bolt, the clip isn't too bad. Some people stick clip the 2nd... more >>


Location: Colorado : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Solar Slab : Tava (5.10a/b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 1, 2017

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Comments: There are actually 8 protection bolts. A clean solid gem of a slab with interesting & varied movement. Exciting & insecure friction crux past 2nd bolt getting to the small hole (big pocket). Fun friction traverse past 4th bolt to dicey slab moves past 5th bolt reaching the corner. Cool corner & an interesting exit.


Location: Colorado : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Solar Slab : Up Until Sunrise (5.11+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 1, 2017

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Comments: There are actually only 5 protection bolts. This route has an exciting runout getting to the 2nd bolt. Very difficult face & friction moves past the upper 3 bolts. It seems to have gotten harder than when I climbed it over 6 years ago. A challenging slab.


Location: Colorado : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : The Wailing Wall : El Supremo Grande (5.11+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 29, 2016

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Comments: A very cool slab route. Is it only 5.10 to the first anchor? I'd say it's very solid 5.10d. Quite sustained with several tricky sections. I first climbed it in Spring 2005 & thought it was .11a. Some footholds can break & sand can build up after rainstorms, so I don't expect the climb to feel the same as it did the last time I climbed it.

Climbing to the top & second anchor is rated .11d in the guide. It is very solid .11d to the top.... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Beast Food Left (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 13, 2016

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Comments: A great pitch with a technical finger jam to undercling/ lieback crux that has shut down some pretty honed climbers. I first redpointed this climb in 2008 & have repeated it almost every year since. It never feels easy. I always do it as a sport climb starting on Joint Venture for 6 bolts. Below 7th bolt on Joint Venture, step left around the arete. Unless you clip this bolt, you are very run-out, but it's easy, & there is a huge jug around the arete to pull up & clip bolt a... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Digital Tower : C++ (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: It has been a very long time since I climbed this route - September 2000. I was climbing quite hard when I did this route. I hung my way up it on the first run, then I redpointed it on the second run. I thought it was .12a when I did, and was shocked to see it graded .11c. Perhaps it's .11d. A truly brilliant & sustained route.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall
By: Mark Rolofson When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: My only complaints about the upper Red Wall, is that most of the routes are equipped with home welded coldshuts. Many of the coldshuts had marginal welding jobs, & on the overhanging wall, this is frightening. It has been 13 years since I climbed on this crag. It would be great to return & find all new stainless bolts & hangers or even 1/2" diameter plated steel Powers 5 piece & Fixe hangers.


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Fang : Perfect Stemetry (5.12c/d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 9, 2016

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Comments: This was the second route that I established on The Fang. Belligerent Buttress was the first. Both of the these lines were bolted & soon redpointed in September 1992. This is a very clean & unique line.


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Fang : Goldfinger (5.13b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 9, 2016

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Comments: Here is the first ascent history of this technical vertical face climb. I equipped the line in Fall 1992. The weather soon turned too cold to work on the route. I returned several times in 1993 & 1994, with a variety of partners who were not interested to putting in the effort to send the route. The crimpy, small edges nature of the hard climbing isn't enjoyable at first. It's become enjoyable & exhilarating after conditioning the fingers for the holds.
In... more >>


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : Botany of Desire (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: As documented in Bernard Gillett's guidebook "Rock Climbing St. Vrain Canyon" the first redpoint ascent to the original anchor (75-80 ft.) was made by Mark Rolofson, Mike Olson, & Henry Lester in 2002. We ended our effort at the chains. Gillett claims we grabbed the chains. Not true. We clipped the short draw on the anchor & then attempted one more move left to a jug, which we all failed to reach. Ending at the jug would have been preferable, but the climb ended at an anchor 15-20 below the top ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Boulder Quartz System (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: This climb has been one of my favorites, having climbed it many times. The amazing quartz system followed by steep climbing through a strenuous bulge offers some of the best climbing in Lower Dream Canyon.

I just repeated it & didn't find a loose sidepull. I am assuming Eric is talking about the good lieback hold in the shallow crack system that you clip the 5th bolt from. At this point, there are two ways to go. I go left to a flat edge then up to the undercling flake. It also goes up slightly... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : The Art of Dreaming (5.12)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: The original rating of this climb was .12c. I have redpointed it twice, first in 2003 & then returned in 2014 to redpoint it again. Neither time did it feel easy. It is harder than Lucky Strikes, which I repeated on the same day in 2014 that I repeated Art Of Dreaming. Art Of Dreaming is very technical with a difficult, committing clip to the 3rd bolt. I suggest hanging a medium & a long Petzl draw on the 4th bolt to clip early before the crux moves. A fall onto the 3rd bolt can land you very cl... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Big Dog (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 26, 2016

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Comments: I strongly believe that all the fixed draws should be removed from this route. The last time I was at the Dog House, last year, the draws were very faded. This route doesn't need fixed draws. For many years, this route was climbed hanging the draws. I used to have it very wired & did it many times on the first try hanging the draws. This makes the route feel like solid 5.12. The fixed draws make this climb too easy & invites too many people to try it that would otherwise stay off of it.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucky Strikes (5.12a/b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: Since Fall 2002, I have climbed this route many times. I have always stick clipped the 2nd bolt. I would recommend this to most people trying this route. Blowing this clip would be a ledge fall & really impact the belayer. The crux is the overhanging start with powerful crimpy moves. Once you at the 3rd bolt, the climbing is sustained 5.11 with a second redpoint crux after the 4th bolt (.11d/12a). Gain the shelf & no hands rest at 8th bolt & it's over. There is an exciting runout 5.10 finish. G... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The East Quarry : Hellhound (originally submi... (5.12 A0 R)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: John, the only falsehood here is the A0 rating & gear recommendation for a few flaccid nuts. For years I have avoided commenting on this route posting, to avoid exactly the sort response that you wrote. However, I felt this description (by Orphaned) of the route, does a huge public disservice. Anyone unaware of the route's history, that doesn't understand the disgruntled sarcasm, could be misinformed. It is not an aid climb! Climb it with 1 bolt, all 4 bolts, or lead it with no bolts, it is sti... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The East Quarry : Hellhound (originally submi... (5.12 A0 R)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 16, 2016

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Comments: The original name of the route was "Hellhound" & rated .12c. Calling it the Viagra Crack & rating it A0 is ridiculous. The history of the first ascent by John Langston, goes as follows (some of it I personally witnessed): first, John attempted to establish the route on lead drilling 2 bolts on aid. Then below the next to last bolt on Pretzel Logic, he fell pulling pro from breaking rock. To finish he swung over to Pretzel Logic & finished up that line. He returned to clean, inspect pro & top rop... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Quarry Wall : Eastern Heart (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 8, 2016

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Comments: Very interesting reading the comments on this route. I have not climbed it since February 2009, but I am a bit surprised to hear that there is much loose rock. The top half of the route is on the softer rock, so it is understandable that things could break or crumble, especially if you stray from the line. The bottom seemed solid, but freeze-thaw action can loosen things up. I have seen a lot of holds break at the East Quarry. My advice is stay off routes at the quarries after heavy rains or sno... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Little Blob : Lost and Found (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: I was just on this route today. I hadn't climbed it since 2009. I've climbed it several times since 2000. I didn't see any new bolts. The hole left of 5th bolt was there before Tod bolted this climb. It's the reason he named it Lost & Found.
Dan Hare had drilled some holes, years before but never returned to bolt the route. This was something Dan did often. There are empty holes on Vasodilator past the 7th bolt. He drilled them 2 years before I established that route. He didn't place one bolt, n... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : The Underdog (5.12)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 26, 2015

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Comments: Like most routes at the Dog House, this route was established by Alan Nelson in July 1999. Please refer the 2006 edition of Clear Creek Canyon Sport Climber's Guide. The best way to start this route is to do the bottom half of "Dog Run" for 5 bolts (5.11), then move right for the upper 5 bolts of "Underdog". I call this link-up "Run Underdog" in the guidebook. I am uncertain who did the FA of this variation. Run Underdog avoids the big chimney that Underdog starts up, making it more pumpy. I avo... more >>


Location: Colorado : Eldo Roof Route Re-Bolting ...
By: Mark Rolofson When: Oct 16, 2015

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Comments: The glue-ins & the Fixe wedge bolts are stainless. As for the Rawl 5-piece & 6 piece, due to almost a complete lack of moisture, I believe you could wait at least 10 years & they'd still be safe. Plated steel Rawl 5-piece are actually stronger than the stainless steel version of this bolt.
I was involved in replacing most of these bolts myself & was the hardware replacement organizer for 4 Celebrate Eldorado events from 1995-1998.
There are some bolts I would replace here. I replaced the anchor... more >>


Location: Colorado : Eldo Roof Route Re-Bolting ...
By: Mark Rolofson When: Oct 16, 2015

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Comments: Unbelievable. Why fix it if it doesn't need it? Most of the bolts on the Roof Wall were replaced in the late 1990s. Most of bolts are 1/2" x 3-3/4" Rawl 6-piece bolts. There are some Fixe stainless steel double expansion wedge bolts & glue-ins.
Focus should be on Fire & Ice protection bolts, Clever Dance, & Wasabe's ring bolts.
I climbed at the roofs this Spring, & the bolts seemed in very good condition. The wall under the roofs gets almost no moisture, so there is no visible signs of rust.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Psycho Babble (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Oct 15, 2015

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Comments: This route description bears very little resemblance to the climb Psycho Babble established by Bob D'Antonio & me on February 13, 1983. I looked at my records & "The Hard Stuff - A Climber's Guide to the Turkey Rock Area and other South Platte Crags" (that I wrote & published in 1984). This route ascends a shallow thin crack that diagonals right across a vertical face. After 25-30 feet, move straight up the face to finish up a short, tiny left-facing corner. I remember Bob falling 15 ft. onto a ... more >>


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