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Member Since: Jul 1, 2010
Last Visit: Sep 12, 2017
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 784 | Routes 37 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 262 | Posts 72 | Stars 222 | Ratings 176
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : Temptation Arete (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Sep 12, 2017

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Comments: After climbing the route a few times in 2002 & then returning to it 12 years later in September 2014, I contend the route is no harder than .12a. The top of the crack is the most technical section. Pulling over the roof is the 2nd crux. Moving right on good holds over the lip is the logical line. Staying on the arête would make it harder.

Regarding my first attempt with Alan Nelson on Labor Day 2000, I was quite tired being day 3 of climbing. The original bolting protected most of route quite... more >>


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : Fire On The Mountain (5.11c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Sep 1, 2017

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Comments: Since 2002, I have always felt this climb was hard for the grade. I have always placed a #6 or 7 stopper above the 2nd bolt. The 2nd bolt is low enough that falling off getting to the 3rd bolt seems like a bad idea. The nut placement is bomber & protects the moves. Hard, sustained crack moves followed by hard face moves above the 4th bolt deliver a good forearm pump. Cool slab climbing finish.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Lucky Strike (5.11c R)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Aug 11, 2017

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Comments: I would recommend a 70 meter rope for this route. A 60 meter rope may be three to five feet short. If you are using a 60 meter rope, make sure there is a knot tied in the end.

The route has a hard crux & an interesting roof at 3rd bolt but is otherwise a lot of moderate climbing with ledges. Not a route I tend to repeat.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Mosquito Burrito (5.8+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Aug 11, 2017

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Comments: Bruce, it is simply not true that you have to replace the whole hanger when the ring wears out on a Fixe rap hanger. The hanger has enough room to add quicklinks with chains or winch hooks. I did this on the "Other One" at Sport Park.

As for as this climb is concerned, I don't wander out right of the bolts on the line of least resistance, but rather climb straight up the face slightly left of the lower bolts & then right along the bolts. This makes for a nice 5.10a. The line of le... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Elk Creek Spires : Chimney Rock : Frances' Secret Handshake (5.11c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Aug 10, 2017

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Comments: The first pitch is definitely a mega pitch. Lots of interesting climbing with a weird, sloping shelf crux low on the route & a wild, deceptive vertical face crux up higher. Much better than it appears from the ground. Perfectly bolted. Nice job, Kirk.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : The Grendel : Freedom Fighter (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Aug 10, 2017

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Comments: I would have to say, read the route description again & more carefully. "From the left side of the shelf & the 9th bolt, move left & up to a stance left of the 10th bolt. Move right & up to a small roof & the last bolt over the lip. Strenuous moves pull the roof on good holds." There is a lichen streak straight up above the 9th bolt, but I move left past it. Avoiding the final roof to the left may be unpleasant & dirty. I pull over the left side of the roof with the last bolt in fr... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Jolly Jug (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Aug 5, 2017

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Comments: Most of climbing is 5.11 & easier. The crux at the lip of the overhang is pretty aggro. I used to have an much easier time repeating Go Dog Go, No Doze, or Hair Shirt (indirect variation) than repeating Jolly Jug. Inflation on the New Economy Cliff in Clear Creek has a huge dyno, & I find it easier to send than Jolly Jug. There is more than one way to do the crux. The dyno method is how I've always done it. There is a good hueco jug to dyno off to a horizontal slot. There is an intermediat... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : The Big Dipper (5.10d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Aug 1, 2017

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Comments: I have seen it led on gear. If that is how you get your kicks, then have fun. I can't imagine wanting to bother spending the time dicking around with the gear, when I can just cruise up it for a warm-up & not have to bring a rack. 99.99% of the ascents made of this route have used the bolts. I haven't heard any complaints.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Owl Prow : Linking Logs (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 29, 2017

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Comments: There is more than one way to climb this route, so the difficulty ranges from 5.11b to 5.11d. The cool direct line stays on the face & avoids the bat shit crack. One of the photos show the climber spanning from a jug to a edge on the face. This is an easier way to climb the direct line, if you have the wing span. I have always stepped right a few feet lower off a finger lock (avoiding the jug). This way is full value.

The easiest line continues from the jug up the right-angling bat shit crack.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Visor : Dyno Monkey (5.11c/d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 28, 2017

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Comments: The route has some very positive holds. This climb is more about power & strength, less about subtle technique. Dynos do require technique & practice to perfect. Sport Park is a great place for that. The crux dyno is pretty wild & finishing it out is still powerful. A fun, short, very overhanging route.

I can see how someone would call this .11d, but there is a point where downrating a climb is really a great way to flex your ego & draw attention to yourself. Calling this route about the same g... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Visor : Bone Home (5.10c/d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 28, 2017

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Comments: The hand jamming to the lip of the overhang is pretty bomber. Then the crack widens to offwidth at the last bolt. The crux is the finish, & there are some face holds to pull over the lip. Kind of hard moves. You'd need fists the size of boxing gloves to jam these moves.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Leave it to Beaver (5.11c/d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 28, 2017

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Comments: The first bolt is the high bolt left of the Beaver Fever. This route was established before Hee Haw. Clip the 1st bolt after pulling up on a jug to the left. Climb up to the left side of a small shelf or "broad horizontal". Hand traverse right on the shelf & stretch up to clip the 2nd bolt. Move a bit more right, & continue up the left-facing corner.

Hee Haw's 1st bolt is really too low & too far left to protect the start. You would definitely clip Hee Haw's first 2 bolts & t... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Butt Luscious (5.11c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 28, 2017

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Comments: Definitely a harder climb than Leave It To Beaver. As hard or harder than Turkey Neck Direct at Stepping Stones & certainly move powerful. If you are 6 foot 4 inches tall, I can believe that this route is 5.11c. Gotta say if you climb 5.14, it is easy to rate this 5.11, if you even know the difference between 5.11 & 5.11d. There are a few people that don't climb 5.13 or 5.14, that rated this climb between .10c & 5.11a/b. I'd love to watch them climb this route, just to confirm it's a... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Hee Haw (5.11-)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 28, 2017

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Comments: This route was originally rated .11d not 5.12a & it is not the leftmost bolt line. The leftmost route, called "Ditch Witch" is rated .12a or .12b. Ditch Witch shares the 1st bolt & then climbs the leftmost bolt line. It is essentially Hee Haw revisited with a separate finish to higher anchor, unless you climb the upper part of the route to the left of the bolts (.12b). Chris Alber climbed it on the left. Squeezed & contrived.

As for Hee Haw, it is the second route from the left.... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Turkey Turd (5.11c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 27, 2017

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Comments: Interesting seeing this called a 1 pitch climb. It was always thought of a three pitch climb. Pitch 1: (5.8) ends just below the top of the pillar. Pitch 2 is the business (5.11c). Obviously this description combines the first two pitches. I never thought of doing this. It seemed nice to be in close communication with your partner. Nowadays it makes sense to stretch the rope out.

Pitch 3: (5.9) Ascend a beautiful finger crack that peters out. Face climb past one bolt to the top. Definitely do t... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : In Search of Unicorns (5.11b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 27, 2017

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Comments: First ascent of the entire 2 pitch route: Ed Webster - aid solo in 1977. It was rated 5.6 A2. Ed placed 2 bolts. Most of the route was done clean, but one piton was needed. The second pitch ascends a 5.6 chimney to the top.

I aid soloed (what was probably) the second ascent in 1978. At the time, it seemed impossible to free climb the entire route. I may have been the first person to lead the first 50 feet free in 1988, accompanied with Mark Milligan. I left two small wires with biners at my hig... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Willie's Wake Up Call Girl (5.11c/d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 26, 2017

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Comments: I bolted this line & invited Rick & Chris to climb it with me. I can't say that I really enjoy this route either, even though it does have a hard crux. I have probably climbed it twice in 1998, but I don't ever recall repeating it since. Many routes are worth repeating at this crag, but this isn't one of them.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Walking On The Sun (5.12a/b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 26, 2017

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Comments: Got to say I really like this route. It really overhangs. The 5.12a/b rating was given because there are two ways to go about this climb. It is possible to get an off route rest to the left & clip the 4th bolt. Then, you are forced to climb back right to rejoin the line. This is the 12a version. It has the same crux moves, but the rest makes it easier. Having the 4th bolt already clipped makes it psychologically easier.

The cool way (.12b) is the direct version. The crux moves are done above th... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Waves of Rays (5.10c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 26, 2017

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Comments: Rick & I were responsible for bolting the line, but we were joined by several ladies for the first ascent.

F.A.: Rick Leitner, Mark Rolofson, Dianne Barrow, Marget Mestdagh & Claire Mearns on January 18, 1998.

One of my favorite 5.10 sport climbs in Boulder Canyon. Cool moves up the slab & a stemming corner lead to a vertical face crux. Perhaps easier to do the crux moving more right & then back left. The interesting slab finish should get your attention. Perfect stone that was clean the firs... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Lipstick Sunset (5.12b/c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 26, 2017

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Comments: Not sure why you would toprope it. The climb is bolted to be a well-protected lead. Much easier to work the moves on lead too. First ascent was on February 7, 1998. It is Rick Leitner who bolted the route. I was the first to redpoint it. Rick send it after me on the same day.


Location: Colorado : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Wendell Spire : Song of the Wood (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 23, 2017

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Comments: The best route I have done at Castlewood Canyon. A powerful overhanging start with big holds followed by sustained climbing above, on mostly good stone, best characterize this climb. Definitely stick clip the 2nd bolt. The rock the 1st bolt is in looks questionable, & it is too low to nicely protect the crux moves to the lip of the first overhang. Above the 2nd bolt, interesting 5.11 climbing leads up a gently overhung face to the second roof. Pulling this .12a roof is the redpoint crux.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitc... (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 23, 2017

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Comments: I climbed the entire route in 1981 with visiting British climber John Allen. I climbed it again in 1982 with Hugh Herr (who was the first & maybe only person to climb the route with prosthetic lower legs). I climbed the first pitch numerous times between 1981 & 1984.

This is one of the best .12a trad routes on the Front Range with varied climbing & no wide cracks.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Elk Creek Spires : Chimney Rock : The Learning Curve (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 23, 2017

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Comments: Great route, but there a few things about the way this route is equipped that I have criticize. First, what I liked about it was the fact that in one long pitch, you get a warm up followed by continuous 5.12 climbing, followed by even harder crux climbing. There are good rests between each section.

Now for what I didn't like. First, at the top of warm up climbing (5.10d/11a) the route gains a good shelf & traverses right. The 7th? bolt that you clip from the shelf is so far left, you mu... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Evermore (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 23, 2017

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Comments: Regardless of how you do the climbing getting to the last the last bolt, there are still two sections of 5.12 moves in a row - at the 7th bolt & the crux at the 8th (last) bolt. Traversing left out of the rest on Eleanor to reach the 7th bolt isn't hard.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Chickenshit Armchair Enviro... (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 23, 2017

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Comments: I gave this route one star in a 5 star system in "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II". I have been up the route, but I have not redpointed it. I have no intention of ever going back. This route is a good way to strain or injure your left shoulder on the crux. The crux is brief, then a few 5.11 jug moves finish. There is no anchor, unless you traverse right to Trustafarian Panhandler. Then someone must second it. Otherwise, you must downaid the roof, & thre... more >>


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