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Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Mark Roberts

Point Rank: # 711
Total Points: 998

3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Mark Roberts been climbing?










Contributions


All 779 | Routes 74 | Areas 14 | Photos 8 | Page Improvements 6 | Comments 151 | Posts 19 | Stars 357 | Ratings 150
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : The Black Book (5.11a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: Sustained and cerebral. The glacier-polished crux comes early, then an odd technical section before an awkward leaning rest. Fingers to the top, still challenging.

Extra finger-sized pieces are nice, but not necessary.

Makes a great second pitch to Bulletheads East if you're looking for extra value. However, be mindful of the loose rocks (some quite large) between the anchors of this route and the start of the BHE p3 finger crack (reached by climbing up and left past the anchors to a gran... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Rutabaga (5.11a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: This climb is exceptional quality. P2 is one of the finest moderate pitches I've climbed in Squamish.

P1 climbs awkward, techy 10- territory to a block, then some really lovely first-class 5.9 jamming to the anchors. I feel like Colin Parker's comment is misleading, either referring to a tree that is currently chopped or confusing Turnip with Rutabaga P1. The anchors of P1 (above the tree) can be reached at 5.9 provided you begin up Turnip, and this is definitely advis... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: This looks like Turnip?


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : The Squamish Buttress (5.10c)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: Route (and area) is currently closed due to falcon nesting. Check here for updates: env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/...


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : The Squamish Butt Face (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: Route (and area) is currently closed due to falcon nesting. Check here for updates: env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/...


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : The Ultimate Everything (5.10-)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: Route (and area) is currently closed due to falcon nesting. Check here for updates: env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/...


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : A Bottle and a Friend (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: Nov 18, 2016

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Comments: Apologies Chris. I misread your topo credits, it was quite the opposite - *you* did it on gear, the FAists bolted it.

I've edited the entry to reflect this. Thanks for scrubbing.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Juneuary (5.10b)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 28, 2016

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Comments: One move wonder, but the one move is hard! Bolt is at your chest when you're pulling the move though.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Mercy Street (5.10b)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: I second the notion to only get on this after it's been extensively dry. I got on it mid-August and it was unpleasant. It rained about a week earlier, but I don't remember significant rainfall. If you climb year-round in Squamish you learn to endure a bit of wetness and I'm no stranger to climbing through wet sections, but this was different - it was thick with oozing mats of green slime for about 20 feet through the reds section. It wa... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Monkey Song (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 12, 2016

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Comments: A quick and worthwhile little route. The gear is spaced often quite far apart, but it's alway easy climbing through those sections. Standard rack to #1 C4 is plenty.

The crux is a foot or two above the second bolt and requires a few legit technical slab moves to keep you honest.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Electric Ball (5.11b PG13)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 12, 2016

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Comments: Nice, sustained climbing. Highly recommend a #3 C4 for the low crux.

I was expecting to feel a lot less secure and sketched out placing the second piece after the bottom crux, but you can get a really secure right foot jam in the flaring feature right above the #3 C4. I'm 6' tall and felt quite comfortable stretching out and placing a .4 Camalot and clipping. Technically when that rope is paid out when clipping there is groundfall potential, b... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Pop-Sickle (5.10+)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: I thought the crux was very contrived. The face between the broken cracks and Rick's Root is the most logical way up to avoid Rick's Root, but it puts you so close to the crack on the left it feels like a ridiculous game to not touch it, especially with ledge-fall potential.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Blazing Saddles (5.10b)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 30, 2016

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Comments: Excellent route. We approached by the first two pitches of Borderline for a fun four-pitch outing, shady and cool on a hot hot summer day. Mostly easy jamming in the range from 0.75 - #3 Camalots, very little need for anything smaller (though you'll want a single rack down to a red C3 or equivalent.) Recommended a #4 though, I used it to bump up the left crack of the money pitch for its entire length.

p1 (p1 of Borderline): A few in-your-face bolt-protected face... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Piece of Pie (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 22, 2016

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Comments: Fun jamming, too bad the business section was over so quickly. I thought I was going to have to do some bushwacking through the salal, but found the climbing diverges earlier than it appeared from the ground. The bottom protects well with a #1 C4 and some smaller pieces.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Triage Arete (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 21, 2016

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Comments: Those bolts sure looked closer together from the ground. Watch yourself between the third and fourth bolt - ledge-fall potential.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : The Solarium
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Exit from 3rd Peak Gully to the Solarium
Exit from 3rd Peak Gully to the Solarium


Finding your way to the Solarium can be a challenge, so I've included here a picture of the exit from the 3rd Peak gully to the Solarium.

After you scramble up, you'll need to hike another ten minutes up or so to actually get to any of the routes, but once you've made it out of the 3rd gully successfully you should be able to figure the rest out.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Harry's Crack (5.8)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: Splendid jamming. I'd give it four stars if the crack started on the ground.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Old and Serious (V3)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jun 4, 2016

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Comments: Very fun, good variety of techniques. I was afraid it would be V3 slab moves at the top, but the slab was pretty forgiving.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Malamute : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roberts When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: Hey Ryan, I don't actually think that's the line. It looks like you've got it finishing up HMW, but I think it actually goes up that white arete to the right.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : The Ultimate Everything (5.10-)
By: Mark Roberts When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: I think the first pitch is as hard as the last (10- dyke traverse) pitch. Also, extend your pieces generously on P1 and keep enough runners to be able to extend everything past the bolts. Once you mantle into that gully the pitch is much easier, but there's still 30m of climbing to the chains. The dyke traverse pitch has one tough & technical section under the bolt, but then is quite juggy and forgiving if you still have gas in the tank.

This route is like Angel's Crest in that, while some pitc... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Calculus Crack (5.8)
By: Mark Roberts When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: This can make a very fast route to the top of the Apron with a few linked pitches and a healthy number of slings:

P1: (From the ground) Link the root-pulling jungle pitches to the bolted anchors on the left below Calculus proper. Place as little as possible and extend everything with runners. Rope stretcher - advise your belayer to stand as high as possible on the pedestal when running low on rope. (5.8 ~70m)

P2: Romp up through easy climbing and build a gear belay just below the finger crack ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Jingus the Cat (5.10)
By: Mark Roberts When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: Decided to put my money where my mouth is and take care of the state of this route. We made it a spring project to clear out all the soil in the dirtaneering start that sustained the dastardly prickle bushes.

Before:
Rock Climbing Photo: Jingus Before
Jingus Before


After:
Rock Climbing Photo: Jingus After
Jingus After


This adds about 15-20 feet of low-5th climbing to the route, but you can plug some gear if you're squeamish. We also cut a more clear trail, added some chain anchors, scrubbed the lichen from the feet and the vegetable matter from the crack... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Malamute : Old Style (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: Good jams, eats bomber gear. Climbs like the first pitch of Flex Capacitor, but dries out quicker.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Malamute : Quagmire Crack (5.10c)
By: Mark Roberts When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: Epic line! Another amazing moderate on the Lower Malamute. Hard moves right off the anchor, the route offers steep, sustained and challenging movement until a no-hands rest on a block feature mid-route. Pumpy. After the block there's some fun flake climbing, then occasional hard sections interspersed with adequate rests.

Besides the obviously amazing position of the route, what stood out for me was the amount of unique movement and problem solving required. The section before the mid-route shak... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Totally Clips (5.10b)
By: Mark Roberts When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: Really fun. The bottom was mostly low angle face climbing, but the top provided some great pure friction moves to keep you honest. Tons of friction.


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