REI Community


Member Since: Oct 3, 2009
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact Mark P Thomas

Mark P Thomas
is a member of
Point Rank: # 3,269
Total Points: 223

14 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Mark P Thomas been climbing?










Contributions


All 1048 | Routes 3 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 38 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 133 | Posts 73 | Stars 474 | Ratings 326
Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : High Sierra : 04 - Ritter and the Minaret... : Banner Peak : East Corner (5.7)
By: Mark P Thomas When: 6 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: "Climb this chute for 30 - 40 meters until you can gain the arete that forms the right wall of the chute. Up the crest of this on some steep, fun rock (5.7) to where it rejoins the main ridge."

Or stay in the chute for easier climbing, eventually intersecting the left spur before the chute ends. There is then a spicy 5.7 step across protected by a piton that gets you onto the main ridge above where the two ridgelets merge.

The rock on this route was fairly suspect throughout, and was... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Area : Medlicott Dome, Left : The Yawn (5.9+)
By: Mark P Thomas When: 6 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: A few notes to fill in on this climb:

P1 - One section can be incredibly wet and slimy. It kind of reminded me of the first pitch of the Harding Route on Conness. I'd say that and a few other parts made P1 the technical and protection crux of the climb. Nearly the entire pitch leans awkwardly to the right and has some non-intuitive moves to step around lots of little corners and roofs. Climbing with a pack makes this significantly harder.

P2 - Depending on your point of reference, I'd ... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Handjacker (5.7+)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Aug 13, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I thought Slit was harder....


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Secret Garden : ... : The Offwidth (V0)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Aug 11, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: If you want to lead this, bring 1 BD #5 (optional) and 1 BD #6. If you want to TR this, #6 cams are your only option. 1 works, but two might give you more piece of mind.

You can easily hang a lantern off the TR anchor at night to light the climb - great for the hot summer times.

This is a good enough crack for pushing cams that I think in the future I'll bring a harness & #6 cam and just solo this on a leash to get smoother at the climbing w/ pro management.

Also, I'd call this a 5.8... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Worm Drive : Driving Miss Wormy (5.7)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Aug 9, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: How does a 40' pitch get a grade II rating?


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Burner Buttress : Burner (5.10) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 9, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This photo is mirrored. Perhaps the wrong side of the negative was scanned?


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Burner Buttress : Burner (5.10)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 9, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Although I had the benefit of a top rope to simplify things, it seemed to me like the main crux was not getting your knee stuck! Take care getting it out after sitting on it. This climb has no-hands rests galore. A bit of trickiness to change directions and jam around the 'don't do the lieback' flake, after which it eases up again.

I'm surprised this was rated 5.10d at one point. This was far and away much easier than Generator Crack... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : 5 Mile Boulders : Big Mouth (V1+)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 4, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: If you climb it as an OW instead of a LB, I'd rate it proper 5.9 wide.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : South Summit : Seriously where the f*** is... (5.10a)
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 31, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: "if anyone had the bad judgement to bring a power drill all the way out to this remote area"

As this is in a Wilderness Area, that would be bad judgment indeed! Please abide by wilderness ethics and drill any bolts with a hand drill.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Burner Buttress : Fire Starter (5.9+)
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 24, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: You can scramble up the gully immediately to the right to set up a TR if you aren't ready to try this on lead. A little dirty but doable cl. 4-5 solo. Or that chimney just to the right looks like a fun 5.? warmup...

Also, I agree that if you know Leavittation, Burner is WAY easier than Firestarter... that or even though I got up it last time, I'm still doing it wrong ;-p


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face : Baby-Point-Five (5.8 R)
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 19, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I started with a good lieback/undercling to the left of the direct face start shown in the beta photo. This feeds right into the upper face climbing and felt like 5.8.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - West Face : Beginner's Two (5.5)
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 19, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Definitely harder and more serious than Beginner's One, but not as hard as 5.7 if you are solid on crack, slab, and wide at 5.4ish. Just be ready to not be able to place pro wherever you want.

At the first steep pod I placed gear high and then climbed the slab out left as that is the obvious line of least resistance (I can see the pod direct being 5.7). It seemed doable for the grade (5.2-3ish), but falling would not be good. Low angle enough that you might get more cheese-grated than hitti... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - North Face : ... : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 19, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Man that route is crowded! ;-)


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Potato Head : The Eyes Have It (5.7 PG13)
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 17, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This seems to be the same route as "Commitments Are for Me". Or how is this one in relation to that one? Do they only differ by the first 10' start?


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Five Fingers Area
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 15, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This area has two main approaches, the first is to the ledge beneath what I'd call the Left Side of Five Fingers Area. The second is to the Center-Right side of Five Fingers, ending at a big ledge beneath Fat Man's Misery (which I will call Fat Man's Ledge here), which has a large pine tree on the right side.

Left Side Approach
The belay ledge is reached via a straightforward cl. 3-4 scramble up the first part of Stone the Crows, just beyond CallItWhatYouPlease. It is the ste... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Five Fingers Area : Fat Man's Misery (5.5)
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 15, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: No wide gear is needed for this climb. I sewed it up and used BD 2x#0.4, 1x#0.5, 2x#0.75, 1x#1-3. Anchor off bushes at the top but be careful of loose rock. You can also reach the rappel anchor to The Waltz & Tenderloin to avoid leaving slings at the top, and an easier descent option from those routes rather than the pine tree.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Five Fingers Area : Waltz, The (5.6)
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 15, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: For my lead, including the direct wide exit, I used BD 1x#6, 1x#4, 2x#3, 1x#2, 1X#1, 2x#0.75, 1x#0.5, 1x#0.4. You can make a gear anchor just above the rapp tree for a better belay spot for the direct finish. That takes thin-wide hand pieces, #1-#5.

I opted for the slab bypass as well and found it reasonable. You can place a #1 BD cam high with a long sling to protect the first half well.

Also, I don't know if a missing hold broke off or I missed something, but finishing this route via the... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Swan Slab : Oak Tree Flake (5.5)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Led it twice over two days and ended up placing the exact same gear in the exact same spots. Basically, place a green #0.75 BD C4 at the start, then a #4 BD C4 halfway up the lieback flake, then finish with a red #1 BD C4 just past the tree branch before the topout.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Swan Slab : Unnamed Crack (5.7)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: For pro, just bring 1 #5 BD C4 cam and leap-frog it as needed.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sandy Corridor : Chrysler Crack (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A few notes:

(1) For the end of step 5 of Justin Hernandez's description, I think the bush is unnecessary and less secure. For those curious, here is the spot:
Rock Climbing Photo: Charlotte about to downclimb the crux section of t...
Charlotte about to downclimb the crux section of the approach to the base of Chrysler Crack. Seemed about 5.2ish. A fall would hurt but you won't bounce off the exposed ledge. There are two more easier cruxes after this for the approach. The second one is more exposed but much easier.

Otherwise, I'd say his description is excellent and spot on. No death falls, but on the first & third cruxes, you could maybe break your ankle if you fell, so be careful.

(2) #6 BD C4 is tipped out almost from the get-go. Only bring smaller gear if it is much smaller to use in fissures higher up. The #9 Valle... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sandy Corridor : The Wallow (5.7)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: If you're used to chimneys, this is well protected if you stay deep enough inside and know how to climb squeeze chimneys. You can only really fall if you fall out, and you can only fall out if you stay too far out to use unnecessary face holds. I'd call this a secure 5.6 chimney in Yosemite Valley, for comparison.

This is a great early chimney lead as it isn't too insecure, long, or sustained, but it is somewhat technical, so for those not used to squeezes, I'd recommend top roping this first.... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : First Pullout : Tuna and Chips Wall : Fishbreath (5.5)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Route protects well with mostly cams and a couple of nuts if you want to sew it up. The rock is a bit soft in places but more solid than a lot of the trad leading in the area (based on my limited trad leading in RR). It is more solid than average for trad climbing on sandstone in general, but it might be a surprise for those new to leading trad on sandstone.

The end is exposed but not too bad. Just traverse around behind the pillar (entering cl. 2-3 terrain for a bit) and climb it from the back... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff : Zoroaster (5.6 X)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A #1 BD C4 protects this climb fine and it is a great introduction to leading chimneys for the novice chimney leader.

It is only 5.8 X if you climb straight up from the outside and ignore the rest of the chimney.

If you climb the chimney as you would any chimney on a trad climb, you can make it ~5.5 PG. Just walk inside about 10-15' to where a gigantic piece of the formation has fractured and tipped over, sealing the back of the chimney. This part is about cl. 4-5 chimneying on great wa... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Although the routes are short and there is a bit of a hike to reach this crag, the routes are very high quality and allow easy top-roping, mock leading, and leading from 5.7 to 5.11, thin cracks to chimney. IMO, the hike is a nice warmup & scenic, and it keeps this crag very quiet. It is a great place to practice while getting away from the crowds. An approach scramble up and over Kraft Mountain makes it even more fun.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff : Bigwank (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Extra fun if you start from down in the hole. It is just a tad too wide to chimney well there, and is easier to do a mild sidewinder technique for a foot or two until you can start chimneying better.

If you want to lead from the hole and protect yourself from a fall without pre-placing a #6 from the starting block, a Valley Giant #9 is recommended. The rest of the rack is spot on for sewing up a lead. It is very easy to push cams as you go.

My only complaint on this climb is that i... more >>


Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About