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Member Since: Oct 3, 2009
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact Mark P Thomas

Mark P Thomas
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Point Rank: # 2,929
Total Points: 198

14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Mark P Thomas been climbing?










Contributions


All 1025 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 37 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 128 | Posts 72 | Stars 460 | Ratings 324
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Cosumnes River Gorge
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 7, 2012

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Comments: For those that prefer pretty pictures over reading, here's how to get there: Map

Just drag the "A" icon to where you want to start from.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Washer Woman : In Search Of Suds (5.10+)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: We have your green rope. PM me and maybe we can get it back to you!

Also, the summit register is back in action with a fresh pen.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Dark Angel : West Face (5.11)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: P2 starting mantel is a very awkward 5.7. After that, the bolts are easy to french free on. No need for any special aid gear. After the first 2-3 bolts, the climbing eases up quickly and can be climbed at low 5th with one more well protected 5.9-5.10a crux near the end.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Great Wall : Chinese Eyes (5.9+)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: Compared to other Arches routes, this is medium on the sandy scale. Not Creek quality, but not scary either with appropriate technique and protection behavior.

The wide section has plenty of cheater holds and is not hard at all (5.6-5.7). However, if you want to squeeze inside to be more secure finishing (no pro wider than a #3 Camalot needed), I recommend high tops or covering your ankles. I do a lot of OW and it was pretty unavoidable cutting up my right ankle after leading and doing a ... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Great Wall : Chinese Eyes (5.9+) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: Don't be afraid of the crack! Be one with the crack . . .


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Three Penguins : Right Chimney (5.10+)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: I led the P2 OW. Crux of it was extracting my leg as my calf kept getting stuck. Second pitch is much sandier than the first, so I think a lot of people rappel after only doing P1 :-)


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Owl Rock : West Crack (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: Very steep but solid, clean, and juggy with easy gear placements. According to the photo time stamps, it took me about 10 minutes or less to onsight this. Very straightforward. This route has some of the most solid rock in Arches!


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Zippy Zebra Wall : Zippy Zebra (5.10a)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: Pretty sandy, especially the start, but very fun. Sustained and varied moves.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: I'd call the P1 chimney 5.8 at most, being generous. The only 5.9 on that pitch is the end.

Please don't be obnoxious and haul packs. It is plenty reasonable to trail packs on P1, and if they are kept small and light, it is no big deal leading with a pack on the rest of the pitches. The party in front of us hauled 2 packs for most of the pitches!

A better way to aid the crux if you're in a hurry, is to do the following (better with double ropes for the second to follow!):

From the P1 anchor, ... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Happy Turk Hoodoo : The Happy Turk (5.8 C1)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: Road is still closed to vehicles, but the bar is still there.

First reachy bolt is easier to stick clip if someone stands to the side and instructs the clipper as to the height and rotation of the stick clip.

The links forced me to sacrifice a little distance by clipping draws first and then my aiders. A third aider or clipping aiders in pairs makes the overhanging bulges much easier to deal with.

I managed to get the final reachy bolt by snagging a shallow two-finger divot on my left afte... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Happy Turk Hoodoo : The Happy Turk (5.8 C1) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: It is easier if someone stands to the side and instructs the clipper as to how to adjust the height and rotation of the clip stick. We tried clipping it for a good while before doing this, and once trying it, it only took about a minute.


Location: Wyoming : Grand Teton National Park : Middle Teton : North Ridge (5.5)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Oct 4, 2012

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Comments: Took us about an hour to summit and about 40 min to descend. The notch was dry when we climbed it, and it was no big deal to solo it, so the rack and shoes were unnecessary, though the rope was nice to rappel into the notch. Other rappels were easy to downclimb around, so I assume people use them when the route is more snow covered?

Make sure to climb Bonney's Pinnacle and Pinocchio Pinnacle on the way down. They have nice views of the Grand and are a very short and fun scrambling detour.


Location: Mark and Stacy Egan : Rope Rug : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Sep 25, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for the demo! I made a scaled up version with my 70m double ropes. Dual colored with 6 thin strands for each line from 3 rounds of weaving.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : Great White Book (5.6 R)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Aug 6, 2012

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Comments: If you know how to handle basic chimneys & OW, 1 set of cams from #0.3-#6 C4 is enough for plenty secure climbing. Just make sure you realize that this is the real deal for wide climbing and make sure you're familiar with pushing & resetting cams.

Don't get sucked too far in? I climbed all of the wide pitches left side in and went deep inside on the squeeze chimney parts. I was super solid and secure, singing and taking pictures the whole way on lead. Burrow in, just don't get stuck... more >>


Location: California : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt. Russell : Mithril Dihedral (5.9+)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: I was very winded hopping on this route about 12 hrs after leaving sea level. Still, even with the thin-air-leading-with-pack pant-fest, I'd have to say the route honestly is 5.9 or 5.9+ by the hardest technical move. Hands-free or hands-less pant rests are there for nearly every few moves on the entire route if you know how to rest in a crack that is in a corner with face features. However, if you want to do the route clean and solid, you should be a 5.10 leader as the climbing is sustained and... more >>


Location: California : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt. Russell : Mithril Dihedral (5.9+) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: Is it really that easy to lieback that section? Or am I just that weird?

To me it seemed easiest to jam it straight in with some stemming in the corner for most of the way, then stem and jam into the next crack on climber's right (behind) to finish. However, I didn't place pro in the next crack, so my follower blazed straight up the flake, liebacking.


Location: California : High Sierra : 08 - Bishop Pass and Evolut... : Mt. Goode : North Buttress (5.9) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 19, 2012

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Comments: I actually found this more helpful than the SuperTopo topo in many ways. Thanks for the great photo topo!

P3 & P4 distances are a little off. I managed to link them with a 70m rope and had about 10 ft of rope left, so combined they should be about 220' to a great ledge.


Location: California : High Sierra : 04 - Ritter and the Minaret... : Clyde Minaret : Southeast Face (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 8, 2012

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Comments: Direct start is 5.9 and really not much harder than some of the cruxes higher up. Way too easy for the 5.10a that Croft gives it. Really fun, clean and worth doing. Frankly, we found the technical crux to be a move right off the belay on one of the last 5.8 pitches higher up. The route is stout enough that if you're strong and fast enough to do the route solidly, you should be able to handle the direct start, so don't skip it!


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 C1)
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 3, 2012

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Comments: This is still on the list to climb, but . . .

I walked up to the start of the route last weekend for a good look, and I think you need more than just a standard desert rack (unless nuts are part of that). I'm pretty sure you'd need rivet hangers or nuts to use for the bolt ladder? I saw bolt heads but no hangers. Looks like fun!


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9+)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: P1 - First chimney isn't that bad if you go all the way inside. When the slickness becomes a problem, just grab the inside corner edge (where the other chimney intersects) and jam your foot in the crack on the outside corner of the two intersecting chimneys. Ratchet-ratchet.

P2 - 2 guidebooks descriptions & topos talked about 2 cracks, so I was confused with seeing 3 options. I tried the middle crack, which was a tricky & wide #4 Camalot Crack. After I saw my cam slide down the crack as I... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Binge and Purge (5.11b)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: Gave up trying to fit through the chimney on this one. No need to lieback the outside, though. You can leg bar the inside leg & chimney/stem with the outside leg, and work up the chickenwing until you're high enough to grab the knobby corner. Press both hands tight on that and do a mantle! Upper OW is fun & straightforward armbars & heel-toes. Some cheater holds near the end make the final overhanging bit pretty reasonable.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: 5.10c? Most of this route was tight for my hands, but not .10c tight. I got tired in the roof and hung out on hand & foot jams to rest before continuing up. No way I see myself doing that at the crux on a .10c!

To me the roof seemed easier than the crux move to the pedestal on Super Crack but harder than the main event of Super Crack, which for me was comfortable cupped hands.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Wavy Gravy (5.10) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 25, 2012

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Comments: Where's the tape marking?! Is that on route?!


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Tilted Mitten, Right Side (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: The 5.9 option for P1 is interesting, though a bit dirty. Climb an awkward lieback jam that quickly becomes an bit of an offwidth (Bring a #5 Camalot to slide up this part). I found it best to stay left-side in and you find some features on your right to work with. Continue up to where it levels out and thin lieback around the corner to gain the belay to start P2. Gear at the lieback is a bit suspect.

The P2 OW crux can be protected by pushing a #5 Camalot, though it is pretty unst... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Tilted Mitten, Left Side (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: It looks like you can avoid the bad pitch and step over at the tree by taking the 5.9 variation to the Right Side and staying on the flake/ledge rather than liebacking up to P2 of the Right Side. A little dirty, but not too bad and has some interesting OWish moves.


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