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Member Since: Mar 22, 2002
Last Visit: Jan 24, 2003
Contact Mark Morehouse

Point Rank: # 10,682
Total Points: 37
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has Mark Morehouse been climbing?


All 21 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 17 | Posts | Stars 2 | Ratings

Contributed Comments


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
By: Mark Morehouse When: Jan 24, 2003

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Comments: There is a very obvious cairn marking the start of the trail and the parking spot. I found the approach to be fairly short and easy.

Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Topographical Oceans (5.10b)
By: Mark Morehouse When: Jan 12, 2003

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Comments: The description above says "many" bolts for pitch 2. I counted 6 in ~150 feet of traversing climbing. All are old school bolts. They would "probably" hold a fall, but you'd look like a pile of grated cheese when you finally stopped swinging.

We found no use for any trad gear. If you can handle the runouts on the first three pitches, the last pitch will seem ridiculously over bolted. However, it's kind of nice not to have to worry about runouts (you might have to worry about z-clipping thou... more >>

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Backflip (5.9-)
By: Mark Morehouse When: Oct 13, 2002

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Comments: This is a 3 star route.The only exception is some hollow sounding rock on the 3rd pitch and some exciting gear on the fourth pitch. There is good gear at the crux, but it's a little runout with questionable nut placements for the first 1/2 of the pitch.

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Hung Like a Horse (5.11a)
By: Mark Morehouse When: Aug 8, 2002

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Comments: I also thought the crux of Penis Dimension was harder, but Hung Like a Horse is much more sustained. The jams are all sinker until the offwidth section. This is definitely a beautiful line and really fun climbing. Have Fun!!!

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : Southwest Corner (5.9)
By: Mark Morehouse When: Aug 8, 2002

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Comments: This is a great route and as good as the South Face. The first pitch is easy and can be soloed to save time. The 2nd and 3rd can be combined with a very small amount of simulclimbing on 60m ropes. After the 4th pitch you need to move the belay about 50 ft to the left which puts you on a big ledge directly on the SW corner. On the crux pitch I set serveral small wires that were ok, but got in a great yellow Alien in the crack just over the roof. (I'm not sure where the big cam that Tony ment... more >>

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Journey Home (5.10a/b)
By: Mark Morehouse When: May 20, 2002

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Comments: This Milhaupt guy sounds like kind of a wimp!

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair
By: Mark Morehouse When: May 6, 2002

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Comments: A note on your personal safety. Last time I was in the Blair area and pulled into the Upper parking are on FR 705AF I was welcomed by a small band of confederate army supporters. Luckly they were still passed out, but they made their presence noticable by the collection of empty bottles creativly placed everywhere, a wide selection of shotgun shells decorating the parking lot, and a conspicuous confederate flag hung between trees. We decided to park somewhere else and avoid and accidental shoo... more >>

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Flying Buttress (5.10)
By: Mark Morehouse When: May 3, 2002

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Comments: This route has been my nemisis at Vedauwoo. Its the huge arching overhang in the middle of the Nautilus. The second pitch is definitely technical, although the first pitch is short and easy. A better start is the crack in a corner to the right around the end of the higher ledge. On the second pitch the leader needs to go through the offwidth and back over the top of it to belay. This can cause some rope problems (read shreded and stuck)because a cam in the offwidth finsh will flip over if i... more >>

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Kahuna Boulder : Beach Crack (V3)
By: Mark Morehouse When: Apr 29, 2002

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Comments: This route, perhaps like a lot Carter, has some sharp holds. I had worked on it once or twice and when I had it figured out and was heading up I gashed a finger while working it into a key crack and covered my sunglasses in blood when I pulled down. However, it is pretty fun and a good problem to work in the area if your not up to the Kahuna roof.

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : West of Rustic : 420s
By: Mark Morehouse When: Apr 23, 2002

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Comments: Get off your high horse Anonymous Coward. Obviously not every route, or really any, belong to Boulder or anyone else. This site is great and has given useful, although sometimes inconsistent, biased, or incorrect beta to anyone who may want it. If you don't like it, don't use it. Or better yet, make a useful contribution.

Based on your ignorant and selfish philosophy you have just limited your own climbing opportunities by a billionfold becasue now you can't leave Fort Collins. Stay away ... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over the Hill (5.10b)
By: Mark Morehouse When: Apr 23, 2002

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Comments: The first pitch is awesome. Enough said.

Don't miss the upper pitch. It is about as good as 5.9 can get. Well protected and fairly sustained.

The walk off to the climbers left goes along way, but keep going.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Xanadu (5.10a)
By: Mark Morehouse When: Apr 23, 2002

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Comments: Great Route. To get in on the discussion, maybe this climbs fits me well, but I felt it was a solid 10a, but nothing more. Definitely easier, or at least less pumpy than Rosy. I would note that the start is pretty easy, but doesn't have a lot of pro and the belay is on a broken up ledge with lots of loose rock and hard to find gear. You can walk (scramble) off to the climbers right, or there are rappel slings around a tree a little down and to the right.

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Fat City Crack (5.10c)
By: Mark Morehouse When: Apr 8, 2002

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Comments: I climbed this route last weekend and didn't use anything bigger than a # 2 on the 1st pitch, and I set a good amount of gear. The 3rd pitch has more good climbing in it than I expected. 2nd pitch is big fun!!!

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : ... : Redneck Hero (5.12a)
By: Mark Morehouse When: Apr 4, 2002

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Comments: This is definitely a pumpy route. I agree that it did not seem runout!

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Biglandia
By: Mark Morehouse When: Apr 4, 2002

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Comments: I checked out Biglandia last week. It is a nice area when its windy or hot as the routes face east and are steep. Most problems are steep and harder than what can be found along much of the ridge above the lake. Also, most problems that go up have loose top outs. You might be best off climbing down a few holds a heading for your pad. This would be bad advice for the highballs however. It didn't appear to see a lot of traffic based on trails. Have fun!

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Ichiban Arete (5.10a)
By: Mark Morehouse When: Apr 4, 2002

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Comments: I did this route several years ago and found it easy for 5.10b. Climbing up the arete is fun and very exposed. You can stick a cam (#3 Camalot, I think) in one of the pockets as psychological pro if you want, but I don't advise falling here.

The rappel bolts are in a odd spot, but for what its worth, you can rig a toprope from them for the untitled 5.12 (which is decent climb) with a little webbing.

Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Turkey Shoot (5.9)
By: Mark Morehouse When: Mar 25, 2002

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Comments: This is a great route. The whole second pitch is really fun and has excellent jamming and great gear with good exposure coming aroung the roof. You definitely want a couple big cams (#4 Camalot) for the wide parts on pitches 1 and 3, but they're not too hard if you use small but abundant features on the faces for your feet. Pitches 1 and 2 are long a make for good, sustained 5.9 climbing.