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Rock Climbing Photo: At the BRC


Member Since: Nov 29, 2007
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Mark E Dixon

Mark E Dixon
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Point Rank: # 1,521
Total Points: 517
Last Year: 263
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2474 | Routes 14 | Areas 1 | Photos 59 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 60 | Posts 2261 | Stars 52 | Ratings 25
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Another Earth (5.11a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Nov 21, 2016

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Comments: Also kind of hard on the left shoulder.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Planet Earth (5.11a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Nov 21, 2016

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Comments: Not a good choice if you are short and have any left shoulder issues.
Otherwise OK.

It is possible to lower without shredding your rope, but there are a lot of sharp edges, so BEWARE! Might be a spot where rapping is preferable, but you make sure your belayer knows what you are planning!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Earth Mover (5.12)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Nov 21, 2016

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Comments: No red tag, so hopefully it's open.

7 bolts and something for the anchors, assuming the first two bolts under the roof remain MIA. Clip stick the first bolt with a hanger, just above the roof.

Slight traverse in from the right just below the first boltless sleeve. Then fun over the roof! Climbing straight up from the bottom seems quite a bit harder.

Still evolving as small holds change and break.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Lost Porch : Southeast Ridge (5.0)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Nov 12, 2016

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Comments: The NW ridge descent looks extremely unlikely but turns out just fine. It would be a good scramble up too, although shorter than the SE ridge, which is already fairly short.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : Float Trip (5.12a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Nov 9, 2016

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Comments: The crux on this route is pretty entertaining and makes up for the vegetated approach. The upper slab is ok although maybe not as good as its neighbors on the lower wall.

Conditions have changed a bit since 2001.

Spoiler alert:

Climb blocks, and step carefully around dirt until the second bolt. A long sling is advised on this one. Don't clip the third bolt on Up a Creek, rather reach (or move) around the corner to the left and clip the third bolt on FT.
Climbing past this... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Flood Wall : Recovery Efforts (5.10a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Did bottom approaching from the left. Reachy but not desperate for my 5'6" +1 ape dimensions.
Agree with pre-clipping bolt 2!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Flood Wall : Higher Ground (5.11c)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Markedly easier than its neighbor to the right.
At least one toaster-size block that shifts underfoot.
Would be wise to have your belayer off to the side.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Flood Wall : Detour (5.11c)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Now reasonably clean. Pretty hard for the grade. Kind of a fun move at the crux though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Film Noir (5.12c)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: I'm 5'6" (+1 ape.) There is no way I'm ever going to get the crux reach. However, pulling on the 8th bolt turns this into a nice 12a/A0 route. Not anywhere near as nice as the Shaft but still good and worth doing.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Mark E Dixon When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: I added two static lines to the tyrolean and cut down the looser of the two ropes that were in place. Hopefully good for another year or two.

Just about wading time anyway!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Mountain Rose (5.10a PG13)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jul 26, 2016

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Comments: Cleaner and more solid than it looks. Worth getting on if you have a small rack of cams along.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: The easiest approach might be:
walk east from the parking until you reach a 40 MPH sign on the north side of the road. Scramble up the hillside to the cliff near the base of Lockjaw.

Follow the cliff base west, with one more annoying steep uphill dirt scramble to reach the area around Cobra.

Continue west more easily along the base to reach the Shady Boys and Girls.

Be aware that while initial cruxes are ok, the upper slabs on these western routes aren't that shady in July... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall : Cobra (5.12a) : Photo
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: 12a called Cobra. FA: K. Capps, 2013.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Heat Wave (5.9+)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: Seems to have cleaned up enough to be worthy.

Still a few loose holds and the granular edges up high may continue to evolve.

There's scope for different betas, giving different difficulties, enough to explain the range reported.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : War Drums (5.9 PG13)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: Maybe the nicest route at the crag.

I used a #1 1/2 Friend and a #0.5 Camalot. You could place TCUs in various spots as well, if desired.

Going left at the tree/twig is really fun amongst the pegmatite, highly recommended, but beware of breakable crystals.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Melancholy Man (5.11b)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jul 1, 2016

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Comments: Maybe I'm just feeble, but I think the move over the roof is pretty darn hard unless you have at least a 68 inch wingspan. Which I don't.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Kashmir (5.10+)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: The bolts are all fine as of 6/22/16.
This route takes a weird swerve left at the top but all on much easier ground.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Kayak for Sale (5.10c)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: A cam is nice up high but not really needed if you are reasonably solid at the grade. So don't feel like you have to skip the route if you didn't bring gear.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Big Tuna (5.11a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: We put rings on the Metolius rap hangers today.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : East Face North Side/Seal R... (5.4)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: Pretty easy to rappel the north face with a single rope.
First from chains on ridge to anchors at base of third pitch of Sea of Joy. Sort of a hanging stance.
Then to ground.
Definitely works with a 70, might work with a 60.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Slender Babe (5.12d)
By: Mark E Dixon When: May 25, 2016

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Comments: Deserves more attention. Fun movement.
Definitely cleaning up. There are still some fragile holds though, so don't break them!
No serious rope drag issues if you use shoulder length runners on bolts 1 and 2 and the anchor of Little Kitten and on bolt 1 of Slender Babe.
After topping out Little Kitten, you are invisible to your belayer until you get to the third clip on Slender Babe. However, the chance of falling here is really low.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Forbidden Fruit Crag : High Test (5.12-)
By: Mark E Dixon When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: Seems chipped.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Hood Surfing In Socks (5.11b/c)
By: Mark E Dixon When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: I think this route is going to be really hard for folks shorter and with less reach than me. (5'6" +1 ape).

As for on/off, IMHO avoiding the two small crimps on the bolt line up to the terrible dish on the right and the undercling crimp on the left, using only feet on the face? makes an ascent pretty pointless.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Child Free Zone (aka Parkwa... : Monkey Puzzle (5.12b)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: There are currently 6 bolts.

The 5th bolt, just over the lip of the roof is placed so that the bolt-side carabiner is cross loaded over the edge.

I added a quicklink and a Fixe ring so that you can now clip the 5th without worrying about biner breakage. It might also come in handy for strategic retreats but isn't in place for that purpose.

If someone was really inspired, he/she could replace the ring with another beefy SS quicklink, but it hardly seems worth the effort. I would have used two... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : The Terrace
By: Mark E Dixon When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: There are three new routes on the Terrace on a face just downhill from the Arete.

From L to R:

10-/10ish right-facing corner. 2 bolts, then option for midsized nut before runut to anchors. Runout is easy though. Hard to lower without getting rope into cracks.

5.12ish on L side of face below corner. 5 bolts to same anchor.
We started up the route to the right for a couple of moves then moved back left around first bolt. Reasonably clean. Nice movement, esp. up to bolt 3.

5.11ish on R side of ... more >>


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