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Member Since: Nov 29, 2007
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Mark E Dixon

Mark E Dixon
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Point Rank: # 2,722
Total Points: 204

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 2649 | Routes 17 | Areas 1 | Photos 64 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 67 | Posts 2417 | Stars 55 | Ratings 25
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Red Devil : Hell in a Bucket (5.11-)
By: Mark E Dixon When: 19 hours ago

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Comments: Definitely worthwhile pitch. Thanks!

Bottom is shady, top sunny, so best for moderate days, not too hot, not too cold.

If you are short (less than 5' 3"?) you may prefer to stick clip the first bolt, as there's a reachy move getting to it. My 5'5" wife had to stretch...


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Red Devil : Hell Freezes Over (5.12a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: 19 hours ago

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Comments: The second pitch has really fun movement. Pretty cryptic unless already chalked!

I had considered trying to link the two pitches- as it turns out, I don't think this would work.
After P1, you scramble up and back about 15-20 feet to a ledge and reset the belay. No belay anchor, so sling something or get the first bolt on P2 clipped (which is reasonable) before falling off.


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The East Quarry : Pinkerton (5.11b/c)
By: Mark E Dixon When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Tried this route and could not find a way to get over the roof.
Comparing photos, it appears about a foot of the triangular block has disappeared.
Maybe that's why or maybe I'm just weak...

Rock Climbing Photo: Pinkerton, shortened
Pinkerton, shortened



Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Red Devil : Paradise Lost (5.9)
By: Mark E Dixon When: 1 day ago

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Comments: The third bolt is still as bad as ever.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Breakfast Cliff : Pete's Kitchen (5.12a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jan 30, 2017

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Comments: Stout with long reaches.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Amazing Face (5.12c)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jan 22, 2017

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Comments: I would second Ken Leiden's comments about the upper pitch. Not nearly as good as the first but worth doing if up on the ledge warming up.

You can avoid the guano if you head left at the headwall instead of moving right to the pillar. Careful hand placement on the pillar would probably work also, but it'd be tough to see the correct spot from below.

More fun as a warm-up than Termites.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Hideout
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jan 5, 2017

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Comments: Rather than scramble up the chimney behind the Lookout (which is awkward with a pack,) just continue up the hillside before cutting to the right above small cliffs. If you follow cairns/trail up the hill, you will see a tree stump with a cairn on top. 50ish feet uphill from this is a good spot to head right.
Admittedly easier to find this variant approach once you've been to the Hideout.

The route list is currently (1/17) out of order. The Hideout has a left and right secto... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Another Earth (5.11a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Nov 21, 2016

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Comments: Also kind of hard on the left shoulder.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Planet Earth (5.11a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Nov 21, 2016

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Comments: Not a good choice if you are short and have any left shoulder issues.
Otherwise OK.

It is possible to lower without shredding your rope, but there are a lot of sharp edges, so BEWARE! Might be a spot where rapping is preferable, but you make sure your belayer knows what you are planning!


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Earth Mover (5.12)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Nov 21, 2016

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Comments: No red tag, so hopefully it's open.

7 bolts and something for the anchors, assuming the first two bolts under the roof remain MIA. Clip stick the first bolt with a hanger, just above the roof.

Slight traverse in from the right just below the first boltless sleeve. Then fun over the roof! Climbing straight up from the bottom seems quite a bit harder.

Still evolving as small holds change and break.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Lost Porch : Southeast Ridge (5.0)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Nov 12, 2016

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Comments: The NW ridge descent looks extremely unlikely but turns out just fine. It would be a good scramble up too, although shorter than the SE ridge, which is already fairly short.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : Float Trip (5.12a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Nov 9, 2016

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Comments: The crux on this route is pretty entertaining and makes up for the vegetated approach. The upper slab is ok although maybe not as good as its neighbors on the lower wall.

Conditions have changed a bit since 2001.

Spoiler alert:

Climb blocks, and step carefully around dirt until the second bolt. A long sling is advised on this one. Don't clip the third bolt on Up a Creek, rather reach (or move) around the corner to the left and clip the third bolt on FT.
Climbing past this... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Flood Wall : Recovery Efforts (5.10a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Did bottom approaching from the left. Reachy but not desperate for my 5'6" +1 ape dimensions.
Agree with pre-clipping bolt 2!


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Flood Wall : Higher Ground (5.11c)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Markedly easier than its neighbor to the right.
At least one toaster-size block that shifts underfoot.
Would be wise to have your belayer off to the side.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Flood Wall : Detour (5.11c)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Now reasonably clean. Pretty hard for the grade. Kind of a fun move at the crux though.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Film Noir (5.12c)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: I'm 5'6" (+1 ape.) There is no way I'm ever going to get the crux reach. However, pulling on the 8th bolt turns this into a nice 12a/A0 route. Not anywhere near as nice as the Shaft but still good and worth doing.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Mark E Dixon When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: I added two static lines to the tyrolean and cut down the looser of the two ropes that were in place. Hopefully good for another year or two.

Just about wading time anyway!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Mountain Rose (5.10a PG13)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jul 26, 2016

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Comments: Cleaner and more solid than it looks. Worth getting on if you have a small rack of cams along.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: The easiest approach might be:
walk east from the parking until you reach a 40 MPH sign on the north side of the road. Scramble up the hillside to the cliff near the base of Lockjaw.

Follow the cliff base west, with one more annoying steep uphill dirt scramble to reach the area around Cobra.

Continue west more easily along the base to reach the Shady Boys and Girls.

Be aware that while initial cruxes are ok, the upper slabs on these western routes aren't that shady in July... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall : Cobra (5.12a) : Photo
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: 12a called Cobra. FA: K. Capps, 2013.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Heat Wave (5.9+)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: Seems to have cleaned up enough to be worthy.

Still a few loose holds and the granular edges up high may continue to evolve.

There's scope for different betas, giving different difficulties, enough to explain the range reported.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : War Drums (5.9 PG13)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: Maybe the nicest route at the crag.

I used a #1 1/2 Friend and a #0.5 Camalot. You could place TCUs in various spots as well, if desired.

Going left at the tree/twig is really fun amongst the pegmatite, highly recommended, but beware of breakable crystals.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Melancholy Man (5.11b)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jul 1, 2016

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Comments: Maybe I'm just feeble, but I think the move over the roof is pretty darn hard unless you have at least a 68 inch wingspan. Which I don't.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Kashmir (5.10+)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: The bolts are all fine as of 6/22/16.
This route takes a weird swerve left at the top but all on much easier ground.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Kayak for Sale (5.10c)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: A cam is nice up high but not really needed if you are reasonably solid at the grade. So don't feel like you have to skip the route if you didn't bring gear.


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