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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Malcolm Daly
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Point Rank: # 2,201
Total Points: 370

102 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Malcolm Daly been climbing?










Contributions


All 582 | Routes 8 | Areas 12 | Approach Trails | Photos 22 | Page Improvements | Comments 60 | Posts 473 | Stars 7 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Ouray (Ice/Mixed) > Camp Bird Road > Skylight (WI4+ M4-5)
By: Malcolm Daly When: May 25, 2014

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Comments: Belay comments have been modified. Thanks for the head's up.


Location: Wyoming > Laramie Range > Little Bear Gulch 28 Routes...
By: Malcolm Daly When: Jun 19, 2012

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Comments: It's sad to say but there is a 1,000 acre fire in this area as of this writing and it may be getting torched as I write this.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Supremacy Rock > Quartzite Ridge (Easy 5th)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Nov 18, 2011

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Comments: BTW, this route is either a solo or a short-rope practice climb. 98% of it is 3rd-4th class, but there are a couple of "stopper" moves in the 5.4 range with no fall consequences. There are plenty of places, however, where a trip or stumble on the easiest ground would result in a 150' groundfall. If you're comfortable soloing the 3rd Flatty, this one's for you. And it has no down-climb at the end.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Supremacy Rock > Quartzite Ridge (Easy 5th)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Nov 18, 2011

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Comments: I can't believe this thing has been under my nose for 35 years and I haven't seen it. Hidden gem?


Location: Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Entrance Area > Mr. Breeze (5.2) > Photo
By: Malcolm Daly When: Feb 16, 2011

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Comments: Hey, that was my kid's first lead, too! It wasn't an on-sight though. He had top-roped it the day before. The only problem we had was at the top. He weighed so little he couldn't lower! I had to climb up and pull him down.


Location: Colorado > Fort Collins > Poudre Canyon > Greyrock > Southeast Face > Jetstream Deluxe (5.9 PG13)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Aug 31, 2010

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Comments: I think I may have done the first ascent of this route in 1974 when Ed Eggers and I went up there with with my brand new rack (6 carabiners, 3 nuts and some slings), rope and Peter Limmer hiking boots. I didn't know too much about leading other than you needed gear at each belay and something in the middle, thus, three nuts. We walked around the base and found a crack that went up, and started climbing it. I ended up at the ledge with some junipers, below the smooth dihedral (I describe is look... more >>


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > The Golden Shower Wall > Pushing Two Hundred (3rd)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Aug 24, 2010

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Comments: Nice job, guys. Not only have you totally hacked the traditional ethics of RMNP alpine, you've also introduced the trashy, naming ethics use at the worst of the sport climbing piles. Golden Shower Wall? Classy.... You should be so proud.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > The Golden Shower Wall
By: Malcolm Daly When: Aug 23, 2010

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Comments: Nice job, guys. Not only have you totally hacked the traditional ethics of RMNP alpine you've also introduced some real classy sport climbing naming ethics. Golden Shower Wall? Classy.... You should be proud.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Castle Rock > Tongo (5.11a)
By: Malcolm Daly When: May 6, 2010

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Comments: David Goldstein, the reason that it's done in 2 pitches is because someone (Captain Publicservice?) put in a bolt station there about 15 years ago.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > First Pullout > Panty Wall
By: Malcolm Daly When: Dec 28, 2008

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Comments: I looks like the pine tree at the base of the Panty Wall blew down on Christmas day, 2008.

RIP


Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Telluride > Bridalveil area
By: Malcolm Daly When: Nov 25, 2008

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Comments: Kirra,
The rap is fixed from the top to the bottom. The whole purpose is to get people away from the powerhouse and make an independent rap line to the ground. Not sure of the specifics of the directional but will find out. I'm talking to Steve Johnson later today.
Mal


Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Telluride > Bridalveil area
By: Malcolm Daly When: Nov 21, 2008

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Comments: Bridalveil Falls Open to Climbing
Thanks to the efforts of Steve Johnson and the Telluride climbing community, Bridalveil Falls will be opened to climbing on December 1, 2008. Climbers must use the new descent route established to the right of the route. Walk-offs are not allowed and doing so will jeopardize future access.

Note that 2/3 of this descent is free hanging and the final one is 200' long.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Rincon > Rincon - L of Center Route > ... > Photo
By: Malcolm Daly When: Jul 24, 2008

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Comments: Ahhhhh, that was my high point for the pitch.

Mal-full disclosure-Daly


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress > Le Boomerang (5.11+)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Feb 6, 2008

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Comments: This is great climbing but I'm not sure you can call it an Eldo classic. It's a frickin' bolt route!!! Skip the bolts and protect it with RPs and THEN it would be an Eldo Classic.

If you're looking for an Eldo Classic in the hood, lead Pansee Sauvage.

Now THAT's an Eldo Classic.
Mal


Location: Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Nautilus > Friday the 13th (5.10a/b)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Nov 26, 2007

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Comments: I'm with Mike D on this one. The route is rated 5.11+. The first pitch clears the first roof and is rated 5.11a. The second pitch is the business and can be 5.11d or harder depending on your campusing ability between flared hands. There is no third pitch.

Whoever put the chains in below the first roof ought to be castrated: they have completely changed the nature of the route and should be removed. It used to be one of the great Veedauwoo test-pieces. Now it's just another overcrowded tick for ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Denver South > Monument Rock > The South Face (5.8 X)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Sep 7, 2007

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Comments: This looks similar to the Pawnee Buttes way East of Ft. Collins. I've climbed one of them via some cowboy Moqui steps. Can't imagine that the other one hasn't been climbed, but I never went over there to check it out. Anyone?


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > The Crestones > Crestone Peak / North Pilla... (5.8 R)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Jul 11, 2007

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Comments: Jeff Lowe and I did a route up here in the early '80s. I wish I had had my camera, because then I wouldn't have to try to remember. Damn memory.... I recall walking up past Colony Lakes up to the peak, spying a primo buttress right up the middle, then going for it. I don't remember much pro, but there were tons of bowling-ball-sized cobbles and an occasional belay. We did a fair amount of simul-climbing, and it felt like 5.9+ or so. My memory tells me that the buttress went all the way to the to... more >>


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > The Diamond > Black Dagger (5.11a)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Nov 30, 2006

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Comments: I think Duncan Ferguson and Lisa Schassberger did the FFA on this in the late '70s or early '80s. They rated it 10+. Bill Alexander and I did the 2nd ascent a week or so later. We didn't know any better so we confirmed the grade. It was my most memorable ascent on the Diamond. It was raining in Ft. Collins when we woke, raining at the ranger station and raining at Jim's Grove. Finally ar Chasm cutoff we rose above the clouds and climbed in beautiful weather all day. It was like being on a island... more >>


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Crescent Wall > Finger Lickin' Good (5.11a)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Nov 5, 2006

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Comments: This climb is easier to do as a single pitch. The rope drag sucks but less so than a stupid hanging belay 20' off the ground. 2 ropes makes it pleasant.
Mal


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > The Diamond > Pervertical Sanctuary (5.11a)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Jun 8, 2006

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Comments: I've done this route twice. Once in the late 70s and once in the mid/late 80s and don't remember any offwidth. I suck at offwidths so I think I would remember. Since I suck at offwidths I have developed lots of avoidance techniques so maybe it's there and I just don't remember it... That chopper flake in the crack up high is waaaaay dangerous. Someone should trundle it when there's no one below.

The largest piece I ever carried in those days was a #3 Friend and it felt well protected. Maybe it ... more >>


Location: Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swell - North
By: Malcolm Daly When: Apr 9, 2006

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Comments: The exit number is 131, not 129. Don't know where the #129 came from (Bjornstat's book?) but it's wrong.


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > The Book > J-Crack Slab Area > Pizza Face (5.11d)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Jun 29, 2005

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Comments: I was up there last week and the three bolts that linked the first pitch of Pizza Face have been chopped so, in some weird way, Pizza Face doesn't exist any more. Perhaps we should let the [route] R.I.P. and just call the route Kite Slab after the one beautiful pitch up there. Mal


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... > The Great Zot (5.8+)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Aug 24, 2004

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Comments: Climbed this on 8/22/04. Watch your ass on the fourth pitch. I headed up and right after the great hand traverse, connecting all the wild flakes and edges. Near the top, as I was approaching the tree in the gully on the left, a huge flake (3' x 6') shifted on me as I was holding on to it with both hands. Prior to grabbing it I had thumped it hard and it sounded solid. I was contemplating placing a piece there as my last one was 20' down when it settled about 2" and sand and gravel sifted out of ... more >>


Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Wild Basin > Hidden Falls > Small Flow (right) (WI4+ M5+)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Jan 9, 2004

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Comments: I led this line in the late '80s or early '90s. I didn't have any rock gear, so a stubby went in to the top of the skinny ice pillar (it was 10" wide or so and dead-ended when the rock goes overhanging), then I tied off the little stick that grows out of the overhanging wall and went for it. It wasn't too bad, because at the top, I was able to back-step to the hanging curtain when pulling on to the ledge.


Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq...
By: Malcolm Daly When: Oct 6, 2003

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Comments: The Smear of Fear and Alexander's are getting traffic. Lower part of the Smear is dry (That's a good thing.) and very climbable. Alexander's is fat and easy. This from various reports during the week of 9/28 to 10/4.Malcolm


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