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Member Since: Mar 17, 2009
Last Visit: Apr 15, 2017
Contact Maidy

Point Rank: # 2,030
Total Points: 325

6 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Maidy been climbing?










Contributions


All 193 | Routes 23 | Areas | Photos 20 | Page Improvements | Comments 59 | Posts 5 | Stars 68 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Muppet Show (5.9)
By: Maidy When: Apr 14, 2017

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Comments: Rating has been changed to 5.9 by general consensus. Opening moves are the crux. As stated the first two bolts were moved higher for safety reasons .


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Elmo (5.9)
By: Maidy When: Mar 25, 2017

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Comments: Fun long 5.9. Another great addition to the area.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Big Bird (5.9)
By: Maidy When: Mar 25, 2017

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Comments: Great route. Super fun face/pockets. The route is a 5.9 if you hit the right sequence but a little harder -maybe 10a if you don't. Worthy addition to the wall.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Finked (5.7)
By: Maidy When: Mar 23, 2017

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Comments: Super fun, featured moderate. Very long and varied for the ORG in it's grade. This was a long abandoned project that had a couple old bolts and no anchor that we ran to the top.


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : The Outsider (5.12b)
By: Maidy When: Mar 14, 2017

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Comments: Not a "red herring BTW. Have at it if you want. "The Outsider" was a former very old TR route on what is probably the only OK-qulaity rock on the entire formation. As a TR it had difficult access and lots of rope drag. - evidently it's a lot better as a lead climb

It is truly our opinion the rest of this formation is crap. We bolted the shorter cobbled face to the left then pulled the bolts for safety reasons so no one would get... more >>


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Cobble me a climb (5.10a)
By: Maidy When: Mar 14, 2017

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Comments: Erik and I actually placed the original anchor up top and started cleaning both the cobble face and the cleaner face to the right a few years back.
The right side ("Monkey Flower") has an 10d/11a move at the top after moderate climbing.

The climbs are really short and rock quality is extremely poor (particularly on the cobble section) - so we left them as TR's and passed on bolting.

There is an additional issue with this rock being directly ... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Gritty Gritty Bang Bang (5.10b/c)
By: Maidy When: Mar 13, 2017

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Comments: I have mixed feelings about this route. All the "Unknown" new routes on the left are fun and worthy. This one is a face-full of good 5.9-10a climbing ending with a very weird mantle (definitely harder than 10a) that kills the fun-factor. Just my opinion- others may disagree and find the mantle engaging.

There's some satisfaction if you can decipher the mantle- but it is VERY specific choreography. I've witnessed some hanging... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Pee Wee's Playhouse (5.8)
By: Maidy When: Apr 17, 2016

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Comments: The last 20 feet of this climb gets 4 stars in my book. Pity the arete isn't longer- fun warmup nonetheless.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : Pink Face
By: Maidy When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: There's a variety of decent moderates in this area and it's one of the few areas with kid and beginner-friendly climbs. Everything on the main Pink Face wall is fun on stellar quality rock. The main Pink Face wall stays in the shade most of the day. The Pink Face Buttress on the right side offers some more challenging climbs with bouldery starts.

As a side note- the hillside is extremely loose. We've made some effort to stabilize and mark the trails. Try to walk on established trails and l... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Coming Attractions (5.8)
By: Maidy When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: A very fun steep climb. It's balancy and sustained on small holds but it's all there and well bolted.
The 5.8 rating is a bit "old-school" IMO and will definitely feel harder for a beginning leader.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Anonymous Bolter (5.5)
By: Maidy When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: Crux is clipping the first bolt and there's some runouts on stuff you don't want to fall on. Fortunately it's mostly 5.3 climbing so you are unlikely to fall on those sections. Kinda boring. That being said it does have some nice exposure and is in the sun if you waiting for it to warm up on a cold day.

NOT a good first lead. Pink Wall Area just upriver is a better choice for beginning leaders.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Low-hanging Fruit (5.10a/b)
By: Maidy When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: Fun climb on edges and pockets.

This climb originally started at the third bolt after climbing up the groove and that version was rated 5.9 Leaders can still climb it this way if they have trouble with the low crux of the direct start.

From the top of this climb it is very easy to swing over and clip a directional on the Wowie Zowie anchor if you would like to TR the 10aR climb and the fun 5.8 trad crack climb.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Held Over (5.10c)
By: Maidy When: Apr 2, 2016

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Comments: Lame anchor issue has been rectified. Mussy hooks and chain added to equalize existing anchors and make it easier to lower off. This climb is sustained! Definitely a bit old school.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Sabado Gigante (5.8)
By: Maidy When: Mar 10, 2016

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Comments: This climb is cleaning up and gets better and better each year. Varied, long and really fun IMO.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : Big Tower
By: Maidy When: Feb 9, 2016

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Comments: A good selection of really fun climbs in 5.10 range in this area.

EDIT/UPDATE: A new permanent crossing has been installed just below the Big Tower.

The large "tree bridge" below "Anonymous Bolter" buttress has been compromised by recent high water flows and should not be considered a safe crossing any longer.

The north crossing below the Pink Face was completely demolished by high water releases and is no longer there. There are s... more >>


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Point Dume
By: Maidy When: Jan 20, 2016

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Comments: See condition report at the top of the page.


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Java Wall : Caffeine (5.11a/b)
By: Maidy When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: FYI:Open shut anchor replacement at Echo is EXTREMELY difficult and labor intensive. It's NEVER- a quick fix. It's the reason these anchors go so long without maintenance and can get so dangerous. PLEASE do not TR through any of the anchors. Please let folks know and tell them why they shouldn't do it.

PS:Having rap rings actually doesn't change the situation at Echo. People STILL take the time to re-thread and TR off the rings. I see ropes through rap rings almost every time I go down there... more >>


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : B-Line (5.10a)
By: Maidy When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: Anchor was replaced courtesy of the ASCA.


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Proud Mary (5.10c/d)
By: Maidy When: Dec 17, 2015

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Comments: Been out to climb this a couple times now. The positive- upper half is a good technical steep climb worthy of some stars. The bad - NOT a fan of how the start was engineered. The roof bolt is extremely reachy for someone with a short wing span. If you don't bring gear- it's a R-rated fall and slightly contrived in light of the bolted crack immediately to the left that can be used to access the head wall. It should have just shared a start with an existi... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : OJ Buttress : Judgito (5.8)
By: Maidy When: Aug 27, 2015

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Comments: Fun but very technical. This climb will fee somewhat old-school for some folks. Tricky slab move at the start. Finish keeps your attention.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : OJ Buttress : Mimosa (5.10b)
By: Maidy When: Aug 27, 2015

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Comments: 1st pitch has some nice moves of technical face climbing. 2nd pitch is easy ground but worth the scramble to get to the 3rd pitch - which is the money-pitch with an extra star in my book. Beautiful dihedral with great exposure. Wish it was longer.


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Proud Mary (5.10c/d)
By: Maidy When: Aug 26, 2015

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Comments: Have to give it a go next time we are in the area. I've TR'd that top section in the past- definitely 10c/d and surely a thought provoking lead now that it's bolted. The wall has so many features it's actually possible to create a number of diagonally crossing lines.


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak
By: Maidy When: Apr 19, 2015

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Comments: It's difficult to tell who actually "owns" Corpse Wall. The hiking trail on the east side is a State Park boundary. It does not include Corpse Wall. A NPS boundary cuts directly across Corpse Wall lengthwise. Does this boundary include the cliff face itself and it's base has always been a question in my mind.

There are private property markers to the west and north and the remnants of a fence line not far from the base. Based on the location of the fence line and markers and the NPS maps,... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : Unknown B (5.9)
By: Maidy When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: A nice, well protected slab climb. The 5.9 version is a bit contrived IMO since the right-hand edge of the slab is so close it is extremely difficult not to follow your instinct an use it...which drops the grade to 5.8 (or less if you allow your foot to step off the edge). Still pretty fun nonetheless and a good little warmup/warmdown.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : Unknown A (5.10b)
By: Maidy When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: I'll second the comments above. A fun, short, slab climb that's worth a go. Solid 10b friction on grippy granite. There's an easy crack to the left you can climb to set up a TR anchor as well.


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