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Member Since: Nov 9, 2006
Last Visit: moments ago
Contact M Sprague

Point Rank: # 91
Total Points: 4,750

51 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has M Sprague been climbing?










Contributions


All 4300 | Routes 155 | Areas 79 | Photos 405 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 1580 | Posts 1435 | Stars 564 | Ratings 77
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Hampshire : *Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den Bouldering : Snip Snip (V8)
By: M Sprague When: 20 hours ago

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Comments: The cow? ;)


Location: New Hampshire : Dartmouth/Lake Sunapee : Pickledish : temp holding
By: M Sprague When: 3 days ago

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Comments: OK, no worries if you are actively working on it.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Buffalo Pit
By: M Sprague When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Probably good to wait a little more until construction is done, or it could be a mess, especially with the rain. Feel free to delete my comments.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Buffalo Pit
By: M Sprague When: 3 days ago

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Comments: The Pit has had some recent development and fixing up, but also the Corral, the area Matt Wallace mention in his earlier comment, has been developed more. I think that must have been where you were. The information is not here yet, but Ward Smith's latest guide (just out) has it. The parking area is being developed so there is little parking atm. Please do not pile up along the road in the mean time.


Location: New Hampshire : Dartmouth/Lake Sunapee : Pickledish : temp holding
By: M Sprague When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Jon, why do we need a separate "holding area" when there are already a main and sub areas?


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Photo
By: M Sprague When: 3 days ago

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Comments: You don't need to go all the way up to Vader, Russ. After traversing above the 5.8 crag and a little past the lone boulder, just keep going straight on the trail, traversing under Monsters instead of turning up the hill. This trail is less known (and not completely shown on this map yet) so it may be a little overgrown compared to heading up towards Bonsai. After bringing you by the boulders below monsters, the trail takes you directly to the Waimea trail, meeting at the Entrance Boulder.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Waimea : Coral Sea (5.13b)
By: M Sprague When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: Bare feet, Lee


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Climb and Punishment (5.11b)
By: M Sprague When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: Sounds like somebody may have used it as a more permanent solution to the fixed sling.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney
By: M Sprague When: Jul 7, 2017

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Comments: Along the road, unfortunately. Just stay single file, and facing incoming traffic (opposite of many places) and there shouldn't be a problem.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Northwest Passage : Final Frontier (5.8)
By: M Sprague When: Jul 7, 2017

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Comments: It's across the gully to the left, maybe 50' left of Very Nice Crack. It doesn't look like much, a clean strip up a heavily vegetated, broken short wall. Apparently it climbs much better than it looks.

I think just left of Cozened is a new project Chloe and Dave are working on.


Location: New Hampshire : Dartmouth/Lake Sunapee : The Newbury Cut
By: M Sprague When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: Here is a link to Dave's site for the pigtails and bolts: team-tough.com/ I'd personally go slow contacting the land managers before getting a sense of the lay of the land from other locals. Sometimes that just needlessly stirs up a hornet's nest.

If going with quicklinks, you will need two on each bolt, or one and a SS ring or beefy logging chain link (don't use those aluminum rap rings). Single ones on each bolt are better than bare hangers, but will twist the hell out... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : Dartmouth/Lake Sunapee : The Newbury Cut
By: M Sprague When: Jul 1, 2017

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Comments: Land manager?


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : The White Buttress (5.9)
By: M Sprague When: Jun 6, 2017

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Comments: Best to hike down IMO. If you head back over the dome you run right into the Overland Trail. Right will take you to the left end of Orange crush. If you go left a little instead, and cross the seasonal Venus stream, you can then scramble down along the edge of the Venus Wall, which is faster but exposed. I would only suggest the Venus way if you have already familiarized the way by scrambling up it previously


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Escoheag : The Escoheag Boulder : Crystallography (V8)
By: M Sprague When: Mar 27, 2017

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Comments: I'm not the best grader since I haven't been able to climb consistently lately. I haven't climbed a V8 recently but I have been working some on a fingery project that I think is probably ~V9, so once I figured the foot beta the fingery crux seemed a lot easier on this than when I tried it a few years ago. I gassed out 4 times going for the easy pop to the jug at the top though. The grade seems about right. I was thinking maybe a 7, not ... more >>


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Escoheag : The Escoheag Boulder : Crystallography (V8)
By: M Sprague When: Mar 23, 2017

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Comments: Footwork made all the difference for me on this. I used a slightly different sequence than Max, putting my toe on a small bump about 6 inches below the better hold out on the face before popping out to the gaston, brought my left foot to the little scoopy hold on the arete, then dropped the right foot a bit to match the left hand under the right on the sidepull and reached out to the right arete. A really nice linkup


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Waterville Valley : Greeley Ponds : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Mar 3, 2017

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Comments: I didn't see much that was really boulderable, just a few so-so small things. It might be worth another look further NE though (suggest without a pad first)


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Waterville Valley : Greeley Ponds
By: M Sprague When: Mar 3, 2017

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Comments: Hikers call it "Painted", climbers gave it the name "Gorilla Head" I presume (I'm not sure when, but that is how I have heard it referred to by Waterville Valley climbers). If you look from around the trail junction the cliff looks amazingly like a gorilla head; also, it is less confusing with all the other painted walls/cliffs.

Last time I was on Greeley Ponds Tr I was on snowshoes trying to keep up with ... more >>


Location: Rhode Island : The De Coppet Estate : The Hillsdale Boulders : Dance Hall Boulder : Unnamed V4 (V3-4)
By: M Sprague When: Feb 25, 2017

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Comments: Depends how contrived it ends up feeling. I'd probably list it as a variation in the description, but see how it is when you get it.


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Central) : Greens Cliff : The Western Wing & Alcove : 357 aka Angel (free version... (5.13)
By: M Sprague When: Feb 24, 2017

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Comments: I haven't heard of anyone replacing them yet. This crag still needs a lot of loving in anchor replacement and route rescrubbing, not to mention two projects on the far right end that I have never gotten back to because they are always soaked in the spring so I get fixated elsewhere. Maybe this year!


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Sit Down area / Druid's Cir... : The Pedestal Boulder : Hat's Off (V5+) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Feb 16, 2017

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Comments: I like the early crashpads


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Lost Crag Area : Lost Crag : Jay's Crack (V0) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Feb 15, 2017

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Comments: ..and no pile of crash pads back then


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Goat Rock : The Original Route (5.9+)
By: M Sprague When: Feb 15, 2017

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Comments: aka "The Original Route" by Paul Baird. A later variation finished out the highest crack angling right (slightly harder)


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Goat Rock : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Feb 2, 2017

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Comments: At least the taggers drew something useful back then...


Location: Rhode Island : The Buckeye Boulders : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Feb 2, 2017

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Comments: This is listed as the Lonesome Boulder on Rocklimbingdotcom, with 3 named routes


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Goat Rock
By: M Sprague When: Feb 2, 2017

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Comments: I can't think of one. Zero Gravity is the hardest one I remember. I just started climbing during the time Ed was putting these routes up. I remember being psyched when I was able to TR it. Unfortunately the routes here were out of commission for a long time afterwards from that knucklehead park ranger who kept pouring oil along the top.

Edit - Looking through Paul's Bairds notes he has 2 TR 12s listed. They are a little hard to decipher but I think they ... more >>


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