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Member Since: Dec 10, 2001
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Luke Clarke
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Point Rank: # 1,248
Total Points: 680

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Luke Clarke been climbing?










Contributions


All 327 | Routes 17 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 102 | Page Improvements | Comments 73 | Posts 4 | Stars 112 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > The Cornerstone > The Good Book (5.10c)
By: Luke Clarke When: Nov 26, 2017

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Comments: Best pitch at the crag (I did not get on Repo Man after Victory in de Feet beat me into submission).


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Black Widow Slab > Kate Moss (5.10b)
By: Luke Clarke When: Aug 21, 2017

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Comments: This is a nice, long and sustained route out of direct sun nearly all the time, a cool alternative in warm weather.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Vampire Rock > Climb-Eye-Knight (5.10b)
By: Luke Clarke When: Aug 20, 2017

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Comments: The bolt line suggested to me to stay left and lieback a weirdly featured arete on the upper part of the pitch, but that seemed silly once I moved into the small open book with a fine finger crack. It's a worthy pitch even if the start feels brushy and grungy.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Staunton State Park > Dines Cliff
By: Luke Clarke When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: Trail is well marked and easy to follow. Took about 40 minutes from main parking (there are closer choices) at a leisurely pace. Kudos to the developers of this area, a good addition to the Staunton options.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Staunton State Park > Dines Cliff > Candygram for Mongo (5.9-)
By: Luke Clarke When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: I liked this route until I did Black Bart and looked at the stacked blocks near the top from the side. It reminds me of some formations in Eldorado Canyon that look like they are about to fall apart.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Devil's Head > Radio Head > Shimminy Cricket (5.9+)
By: Luke Clarke When: Jun 5, 2017

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Comments: Do this climb. Agree with gear recommendations and 9+ rating in comments. This pitch packs a lot of fun into 100 feet of vertical.


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Left Wire > Show Nuff Wall > Manifest (5.8-)
By: Luke Clarke When: Feb 7, 2015

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Comments: Fun warm-up, but I agree with the comments. You're done with the 8 when you make the first clip.


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Left Wire > Addict's Wall > Addicts (5.10a/b)
By: Luke Clarke When: Feb 7, 2015

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Comments: The anchors are showing age, rusting links will give you pause. Crux felt like solid 10 to me (5'11" 0" ape). Pushed hard off tiny edges with my feet to jam one hand and hung for a second on that until I got my left hand in and brought feet up. Rock quality seemed good all the way. Friable edges seemed gone to me.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Buffalo Creek > Skinner Mountain > Central Corner (5.10a)
By: Luke Clarke When: Aug 25, 2013

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Comments: If you haven't climbed this yet, you should ask yourself why. You are not likely to find a better pitch of 5.10 climbing 20 minutes from the highway anywhere. Just saying.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Buffalo Creek > Skinner Mountain > Central Corner (5.10a) > Photo
By: Luke Clarke When: Aug 25, 2013

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Comments: It's as good as it looks... and this looks as good as it gets.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Mountain > Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6)
By: Luke Clarke When: Jan 19, 2013

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Comments: What is the route immediately to the right of Peri-Less Journey (and left of Burning Down the House)? It's been there at least 8 years. It has a crimpy crux at the 5th bolt and a higher crux through the roof. I have never done it clean and was with an 11b leader today who hung at both cruxes so I am guessing it's at least hard 11.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part D - Xanad... > Working Class Hero (5.7)
By: Luke Clarke When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: Dave's description is spot on and tracks with the one on page 288 of the now mandatory Steve Levin guidebook. This climb has a bit of a taste of adventure for this area of Eldo. Gear is good and the rock... well it's Eldo. P1 and P3 are good fun.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Buffalo Creek > Da Butts > Smegma Burns (5.9+)
By: Luke Clarke When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: The choices on the second pitch are guano or run out traverse. Most of us will choose run out. The leader risks slamming back into the right-facing corner and the second risks slamming into the left-facing corner under the roof.
Turns out the feet are decent, so stay low and out of the fecal matter. It's South Platte slab.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Buffalo Creek > Da Butts > Roll Dem Bones (5.9+)
By: Luke Clarke When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: This route description makes the same minor error we did today, adding the second (very clean and very fun) second pitch of Ho De Do to Roll Dem Bones. However, the authoritative guidebook released earlier this year from Fixed Pin (don't climb here without it) makes it clear that Roll goes up the left-facing corner to the east for the second pitch.
Traverse about 15 right at the first belay, set your gear high in the crack with a long sling, ignore the lichen, jam, stem, grunt and groan up that ... more >>


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... > Sheeprock > Land that Time Forgot > Ankar Gate (5.11-)
By: Luke Clarke When: Aug 5, 2012

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Comments: Excellent route. Carried 18 draws and used them all on p2 and nearly all on other pitches. You could easily back clean at a few places, but if you want to avoid that, take 18. They all are about 170-180 feet long. The route feels amazingly consistent at the grade with only a few full blown rests.


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > The Citadel > Heart Of Norway (5.10c) > Photo
By: Luke Clarke When: Jun 21, 2012

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Comments: Please elaborate.


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > The Highlands aka Highlande... > Job Review (5.11a)
By: Luke Clarke When: Dec 12, 2011

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Comments: If you're careful, you can rap to the wide ledge, which leaves a reasonable downclimb to the east, on a 60m (knot the ends to be safe).


Location: Colorado > Lyons > St. Vrain Canyons > South Fork of St. Vrain Can... > Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs > Revocation (5.9)
By: Luke Clarke When: Nov 15, 2011

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Comments: I think Tony meant to say Ain't no Puppy is the wider line on the left. In any case, this is a worthy pitch (didn't do the upper pitch due to the later hour).


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > Lower East Face > Kor's Door (5.9-)
By: Luke Clarke When: Sep 7, 2011

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Comments: My partner and I were able to do this line and Hornsby Direct to Broadway in three pitches with 60m ropes.
End pitch one just over the first roof, as described.
Stretch pitch two past the shallow 5.8 dihedral and go up and left on ledges as far as possible.
Third pitch requires 30 or 40 feet of simul-climbing. The bottom guy is on easy 5.4 ledges and the leader is on maybe 5.8 face climbing.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > Lower East Face > ... > Photo
By: Luke Clarke When: Sep 7, 2011

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Comments: This mapping is spot on, at least for the Kor's Door route and approach. My partner and I took the advice and went south on Broadway to Alexander's Chimney, so I can only speak to that part.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > Lower East Face > Rap Descent from Top of Low... (5.0)
By: Luke Clarke When: Sep 7, 2011

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Comments: Has anyone tried this who has also rapped Alexander's Chimney? I'd be interested in a comparison. Did Alexander's as the descent from Kor's Door Monday, and I would prefer something with less water, loose rock and ice on it. I know it's an alpine climb but....


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > The Bookmark > Joy and Tribulation (5.9 R) > Photo
By: Luke Clarke When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: This actually depicts the start to Sidewinder. The start to Joy and Tribulation and Fantasy Ridge cuts right and out on the face about 30 feet off the ground and angles across the blank looking face catching the sun in this photo. I have done both and moving right onto the face is a better climb.


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > The Bookmark > Joy and Tribulation (5.9 R)
By: Luke Clarke When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: One of the beta photos incorrectly depicts the first and second pitch. The narrative description gives the best option. Move right out out of the slanting crack at about 30 feet above the ground and on to the face. You can continue up the wide slanting crack through short brushy sections but then you would miss the bolted slab. I have done it both ways and the slab is not to be missed (while the bushes are). My 2 cents.


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > The Catslab > Jellicle Cats (5.10a/b)
By: Luke Clarke When: Mar 15, 2011

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Comments: Maybe the best pitch on the crag (but I haven't attempted the 11).


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Cadillac Crag > Ghetto Cruiser (5.8-)
By: Luke Clarke When: Nov 29, 2010

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Comments: This route is a nice warm up to start your day. It faces southeast and is one of the first lines on Cadillac to get sun. Sling gear long at the top of the corner, so you can traverse on to Easy Street and the bolt anchors. They were rigged with a long cordelette in good condition yesterday which made it possible to rap to the tree at the start of Ichiban (and another rap to the ground).


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